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Herby63

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Everything posted by Herby63

  1. Hello fellow Mikasalovers, Jeff59 answered my question in his build, thanks for that Jeff 👍 Next on the tasklist were the rear deck davits. They sit in brachets attached to the side of the hull. I detached the pieces from the frets and bent and soldered them. After redrilling the topholes with a 0,7 mm drill, I glued the top brachets to the hull. Then I inserted the davits so I could determine the position of the tiny lower supports. Davits temselves remain detachable for futher manipulation of hull an rear deck. Wishing everyone lots of modeling fun.
  2. Thx, learning a lot from those who went before me and share on MSW or YT
  3. I am not planning on doing extensive research on the differences between the 1902 and the 1905 version, but I am going for the black and white (light grey) paint sceme, in order not to have a house full of grey hulls. 😀
  4. Excelent, I made a displaycase for my 1/200 Bismarck, with an internal hight of 350 mm, and I prefered both cases to be the same hight. I visited Japan in 2019. Some months after returning, I was browsing the net for a 1/200 model of HMS Dreadnought. Thats how I descovered this IJN Mikasa. We shall have to visit Japan again. Thank you very much for the measurement. Thanks, I had an excelent example (Captain Slog) Thanks, and to think that a couple of months ago I could only solder using huge blobs of tin. What an adaptable soldering station an soldering paste can't do for you. 😁
  5. Hello Jeff Remarkable model you are making. You may have noticed that I am making Mikasa too. Can you please measure the hight of the finished model, from the bottom of the keel to the highest point of the main mast? Preferably in metric but imperial wil do as well. As the hull is nearing completion, I have to decide wether I have place to put the model on pedestals or wether I have to put it directly on the bottom plate of the showcase. Thanks, Herby
  6. Hello Fellow Mikasalovers, Can anyone who has (almost) finished the 1/200 Mikasa with Pontos add-on set please measure the hight of the finished model, from the bottom of the keel to the highest point of the main mast? Preferably in metric. As the hull is nearing completion, I have to decide wether I have place to put the model on pedestals or wether I have to put it directly on the bottom plate of the showcase. Thanks, Herby
  7. Now I placed the port walkways with SloZap. Wishing everyone lots of modeling fun.
  8. I assembled the stern achors with the Merit and the pontos parts, and glued them to the hull, under the stern walkway, with SloZap. Wishing everyone lots of modeling fun.
  9. Thanks for the nice worde, Javlin, and thanks to all the folowers for clicking the like-button . Before mounting the torpedonet booms, I assembled and placed the 15' booms for protecting the propellers. I used a "holderdowner" as Ron Calverley has demonstrated so often in his Youtube series "The Model Ship" to hold the piece in place while the glue was drying. Wishing everyone lots of modeling fun.
  10. The torpedonet booms on the starboard side will be mounted in the "net not installed" position, and on the port side in the "net installed" position. So I soldered 8 pieces 721, 725 and 726 to the ends of brass turned parts 23 and glued 8 stainless steel hooks (Pontos 51) with SloZAP in the hole at the other end of the booms. To get an impression, I positioned them in the eyepolts and against the catwalks. The parts for the port side collected, bent and positioned on the booms, ready for soldering. Brass parts (721, 725 en 724) soldered to the ends of turned Brass part 23 . I drilled out the holes in the other end a little bit deeper (0,4 mm drill) so that the stainless steel hooks could be glued in a lttle bit deeper. I removed the parts of the casematshutters that fold down and filled the recesses for the hinges with some putty. I degreased the torpedonetbooms with IPA and primed them with VMS Metal Prep 4K. Wishing everyone a Merry Chrismas, a Happy Newyear and lots of modeling fun.
  11. I positioned the catwalks on the starboard side of the hull. (between the 2 red arrows) And then I glued them with pink ZAP, holding them temporarily in place with a piece of tape, where needed. The struts received a dash of yello ZAP. And finaly I replaced the downward folding parts of the casemateshutters, because they rest on these catwalks. Wishing everyone lots of modeling fun.
  12. All the segments of the catwalk have now received the supports. Wishing everyone lots of modeling fun.
  13. A carwalk runs alongside almost the full length of the hull. I did not manage to solder the supports to the white metal grills, the solder just turned into tiny beads if tin that would not adhere to the piece, so I switched to PVA-glue. Here the grills 54, 55 and 56 have received their supports and those for grill 57 are waiting to be attached. Wishing everyone lots of modeling fun.
  14. 16 more brackets assembled and glued to the hull. Wishing everyone lots of modeling fun.
  15. I made up some brackets and attached them to the hull with SloZap above and below the front casemates (both sides). (Pontos parts 354, 603+607+606 and 366/367)
  16. Hi Scott. I was a bit worried about my soldering skills too, with my +40 years old soldering iron, ad resin-core solder, that oly allowed me to solder things using far too much solder. So I invested in a new soldering station with adaptable temperature, and soldering paste in a seringe. I try to apply the smallest amount of soldering paste, using a small brush. Works quite well. The video's by Captain Slog (Plunging fire scale modeling) are a big help too.
  17. The admiral's walk: The Pontos-instructions Baseplates 213 and 214 soldered together, and topped by part 205. Bent the railing (part 215) to fit the handrail (part 202) By the way, the Pontos-instruction is correct, I avoided mixing parts 205 and 202 up by cutting 205 loose and fitting it first, and only then I cut 202 loose and fitted it to part 215. 202 is slightly longer then 205. Next I soldered the railing to part 205 on the walkway. Then I bent and soldered the 2 halfround platforms to the bottom. After bending the nameplate to the correct curve, I soldered this to the railing. Finaly I soldered the 9 supports to the bottom. A testfit results in this image, whuch is quite pleasing to me
  18. In order to save som place , I plan to deploy the torpedonets on the portside, but to attach the booms to thull on the starboard side.
  19. Next step was to bend and solder the 16 eyebolts (part 53) and glue them and the ring (52) with a little SloZAP in the holes in the hull. The booms for the anti-torpedo-net will be hooked in them. Wishing everyone lots of modellingfun.
  20. Next I drilled 2 4mm holes in the bottom of the hul and attached it to a temporary bottomplate in order to diminuish the risk of damaging the added detail when handeling the ship. Wishing everyone lots of modellingfun.
  21. Next I bent and glued on the shutters for the 2 outer casemates. (both sides) Wishing everyone lots of modellingfun.
  22. Next I bent and glued on the shutters for the 3 central casemates. Wishing everyone lots of modellingfun.
  23. Next I bent and glued on the shutters for the front and stern casemates with SloZAP and the hand holds wit a dash of PVA-glue. Wishing everyone lots of modellingfun.
  24. I testfitted the 6" and 3" guns in the casemates of the hull. I had to enlarge the pivoting holes in the 6" guns slightly to alowe the pins to go in smoothly, as I am a bit reluctant to hammer them in when the hull is laden with PE. The Pontos 3" guns don't fit under the roofs of the casemates, as the bottom plates I installed dont alowe for sliding them in sideways, so I removed the roofs, planning to top the area later with a piece of styrene. Wishing everyone lots of modellingfun.
  25. Some more hull details added, the first with diluted PVA-glue, the doors themselves witg a touch of SloZAP. Wishing everyone lots of modellingfun.
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