g8rfan

Progress is being made, slow but sure. As with all the other challenges of this model, the catheads were no different. I wanted to fabricate these with the triple sheaves in the end. The idea was to use a laminate method like that used by @JSGerson (post#661). The problem is, at my scale, it meant the layers to make the holes were going to be very thin. There was also a problem with the dimensions. The catheads are meant to be 15 inches thick, which at scale would be 5/32 (10/64). There was no easy way to divide that up so that the spacing was even. My solution to the latter problem was to make them just slightly smaller than they were supposed be. With 9/64ths, I could make the outside edges 1/32 each and the internal spacing evenly split into 5x1/64 For most of the pieces I used 1/32 basswood sheet and used a laser engraver (one of my favorite toys) to cut out the shapes. Since I didn't have 1/64 wood sheet, I used poster board, which conveniently is exactly 1/64th of an inch thick. To make the holes for the sheaves, I used a file to thin two of the sections down to 1/64, thus leaving a 1/64th opening. These thinned out gaps were filed at a 60 degree angle to match the end of the cathead. Once installed, this gives a vertical hole. The third hole was made using the 1/64 poster beard, which was cut to match the filed down sections of 1//32 wood. Of course filing the 1/32 wood down to give uniform depth and size was tricky, however, I came up with a pretty good solution. I used the holes left behind in the posterboard from where I had cut out the 1/64 pieces. By placing the wood pieces in the matching holes, I could simply file down until the file was flush with the poster board, and marked the poster board for reference so I could keep the file properly angled. Since I'm making the bow as she appeared in 1812, the lower rail will not curve up into the cathead as she does now. Instead it fairs into the hull and the catheads are supported by independent knees. These were also cut out and assembled in the same manner to give an overall thickness of 9/64. Once all the pieces were cut and filed, they were glued together using wood glue. Here's how they turned out: Next, I'll drill a hole through the sheaves and install a piece of dowel to act as the internal pulley. lastly they'll get some light sanding to remove the burn marks from the laser and to polish up the shape and a coat of paint before putting on all the hardware.

Sorry Jon, How's this

Hey Jim, sorry I haven't chimed in sooner. You have definitely had your share of fun with the solid hull. I think any of us who have worked on one has had some or all of the issues you have had. Good job with all the fixes. Good luck with the coppering. I hope my little template works well for you. Let me know if you have any trouble or questions. Enjoy the journey, it's just begun

And then there were two. Before attaching these, I plan to get the cat heads done and installed. Thanks Jim, glad you like my approach.

Congrats Jon! I'm sure you're glad to get that behind you. As always, you are an inspiration, showing that with a little perseverance, anything can be accomplished. Keep up the great work

Thanks Clipper, appreciate you stopping by. Here's the first finished trailboard

Hello all, back again. So since the decision was made to stick with the Hull/Revell model, at least for the most part, I took the leap and opened up the bulwarks from where the catheads protrude, back to the first gun port. The cast metal tailboards supplied in the kit didn't have as fine a detail as the ones on the Revell model, so once again, I set about making a mold and casting new pieces. I thought I would show a little more of the process this time. First, the trailboards had to be enclosed to give a cavity to make the mold. I used modelling clay to build this up. I planned to tilt the hull so that the end of the stem was at nearly the same height as the end of the trailboard, that way, I didn't have to make such a deep mold care has to be taken to make sure every little hole is sealed up from the back. Then, the two part silicone is mixed and poured in. The silicone sets up in about 45 minutes, but I let it sit overnight to make sure it is fully cured. Once cured, the mold peels away easily and cleanly. Then I once again used automotive Bondo to make the new piece. Although the Bondo is fairly fluid initially, you still have to work it into all the little details to make sure there are no air bubbles. The Bondo sets up in about 5 minutes, so you have to work quicckly, and then again, I let it cure overnight before removing. Finally, the piece was thinned down so that it could be fit properly against the stem and hull. Next up, painting the trailboards and fabricating the catheads

Makes sense. Thanks Kurt

Thanks guys, as usual, both of you have been a huge help. Jon, once again impressed with your library of photos. Of course, all of this has given me a lot to ponder. Although I really like the look of the current bowhead rails, I did start this project with the intention of building her as she was in 1812 against Guerriere. I have to assume that the men who made the Hull model knew what their ship looked like. With that in mind, i think I will proceed with this simplified version. Of note to me, the bowhead timbers are all black without the white trim they have now. The second rail (Lower rail) is completely absent. The upper half of the bulwarks is open all the way back to the first carronades. The boomkins protruding from the bowhead is non-existent today. i assume these were replaced by some of the hardware attached to the sides of the catheads now? Lastly, the top of the false rail is black, and not white as it is now. I'm sure there are a few other details, but those are the ones that stand out most to me

Hi Kurt, Thanks for the heads up and all the very useful info and photos. I have already been a bit perplexed by the position of the catheads. The "simplified" version definitely looks like it would be easier to do, and I am trying to be true to her appearance in 1812, but esthetically, I feel compelled to stay with the current configuration. The way the second rail fairs into the cathead, although complex (and intimidating) looks so much more elegant. I'm curious if this version was actually a quick fix after the damage suffered in the collision with USS President that didn't get changed until a later restoration? Jon, you are the man with the photos. Do you have any that show a pretty good view of the bowhwead on the Hull model?

Thanks guys. Really appreciate (and need) the encouragement. This ship is more than a challenge, but so far, still having fun.

After getting the roof in place, I had planned to actually frame out the windows with wood, but first thought I would check the dimensions by placing the kit supplied windows in the space to see how they fit. Much to my disappointment, there was a huge gap along the bottom sill. Since the top seemed to fit OK, I knew that the curve was correct. After studying it a bit, I came to the conclusion that the scroll piece below the windows was tilted outward too much and needed to have a little less angle to it. not sure how this could be since I used the Navy plans to create the frame piece that the scroll leaned up against. I decided the best thing to do would be to rip everything off and start over again. not an easy task since I had used extra CA glue to reinforce everything. After soaking everything with debonder, I managed to pull off the scroll piece and the frame without too much damage. I redid the frame piece with a little less outward curve to it, so the scroll piece would fit tighter and not have as much outward angle. Meanwhile, I decided that it was going to be easier to use the kit supplied windows than trying to frame this out myself. I wanted to have the windows open, so that meant thinning out the piece and carving out the individual windows. I thinned out the backside as much as possible with the Dremel and a sanding wheel. After that, I drilled a hole in the middle of each window andd then moving outward, I used a #11 X-acto blade to slowly carve out the metal. The Brittania metal is surprisingly soft and can be carved easily if you just take a little at a time. Once the windows were more or less carved out, the edges and corners were finished off with files. Before attaching them, I painted them and then glued on the cellophane for window panes I filed in the gaps with epoxy putty, got everything smoothed out, and then painted, including some touch up to the windows. Once painted, they didn't look too bad, at least not to me. Considering how much I lamented over this little portion of the project, I was satisfied Now onto the bow, which I have decided to tackle before moving on to the gun deck

Satisfied with the bottom half of the gallery, I moved on to the roof. I attached to ceiling (part C in the plans) and used this as a guide to attach the shingled portion of the roof. Of course, with such a fine toilet, I just had to add the sconce light to the wall. This was fabricated from a piece of brass wire, and some clear styrene sprue that I had heated up and stretched to give the glass on top. it's just a little out of scale, but I thought it gave a decent look

Thanks Jon, I will admit, I didn't get it perfect on the first try (thus the six week lapse) but the silicone is pretty easy to use. The main thing one has to think about are the edges, and how to build up the putty or clay to hold the silicone while it sets. Flat pieces aren't too bad. Making a 3D part would be a bit more of a challenge. As for the paint, I did use a pretty fine tip brush. The biggest secret is cleaning the brush frequently to keep the paint from drying out on the brush - and using 5X readers to see what you're doing Thanks for the compliment

On to the quarter galleries. As I mentioned before, this is the one part of the ship that i find the most intimidating. Trying to put together the 5 part puzzle of cast metal pieces supplied in the kit was for me like trying to play 3D chess without looking at the board. After playing with my little mock up of the stern, I thought I could frame out the galleries using the Navy plans and just fit the pieces onto the frames. This didn't quite work out, and probably has something to do with the kit being based on the 1812 ship and the plans being based on a later restoration. In any event, a little tweaking of the dimensions of the framing and a little trimming of the metal parts and i had something I thought would come together nicely. My original plan was to get the counter in place, attach the side scroll piece, then get the roof attached and finally be able to frame up the windows in the space remaining. That was the plan anyway. So, I started off getting the floor and the side frame attached. I used some left over pieces of the scribed decking that I had to "plank" the floor and the entranceway. This was stained with a mix of minwax golden pecan and gunstock. Of course I had to include the seat, complete with toilet for the captain. Once all that was in place, I attached the scroll piece for the bottom counter. That piece was back filled with epoxy putty (KwikWood by JB Weld) that was shaped to fit snugly against the hull. All of this was attached using CA glue. once all was firmly in place, any gaps, etc were filled in using the same epoxy putty.