kgstakes
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Glad I clicked on this topic. Learning a lot about the woods you all use. I've only built with basswood (railroad structures & miniature furniture). Used cherry once for a miniature table. I'm building the Mississippi River boat and the different species in the kit but didn't really realize that certain woods are better for certain parts of a ship. Very interesting topic, thanks everyone, I'll pay more attention to the woods used from now on. And the best part is I have another supplier for wood !! -
Love all the detail, rigging for the life boats railings, just a very nice job. Every time I get on this forum I see great models and it inspires me to do better with my modeling. Thank you for sharing!
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Some times in our hobby we need to look at other ways of doing things and using pinking shears for the awning is a great effect. If we all look in our tools arsenal we’ll find things that are not necessarily made for our hobby but work for our hobby. In the sewing or craft departments in stores you’ll find all kinds of little things that can work for our models. I’ve even used my wife’s cricut machine to cut out walls for a building and it worked great!! Have fun out there and I’ll be back to building shortly after my fingers heal a little more and we get moved to our new home.
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That site has some great tools!! That one is going in my tool favorites on my computer for sure. Thanks for sharing!!
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I bought a proxxon vs the brynes only because it has the tilt arbor. Proxxon works for me but if the brynes would have had a tilting arbor there would be no question I would have that saw in my shop. The tilt table just brought me back to memories of a table saw (full size) that my father had when I was a kid and it would scare me every time he tried to make a cut. Just looks unsafe because any slip and the cut is bad or fingers missing. Proxxon works for what I need in a mini table saw and I can cut thin material (rc airplane plywood 1/64”) without any problems. Cuts are straight and true. I’ll say it again, each of us like the machine we have and that’s good. Have fun stay safe and enjoy our hobby!!
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For my HO scale windows I've use clear plastic from packaging but I also use Micro Glaze from Micro Mark which works pretty well. Only thing with the glaze is that it's more light the old widows in houses and such that you can see a "wave" in the glass (hope I'm explaining that correctly). It's not as clear as using the plastic from a package like for figures or some other detail parts come in.
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It’s been awhile since I posted my progress (crushed hand and other things going on). Here is where I’m at so far next deck is on lighted and ready for the next part of the build. Enjoy the pictures
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Pulled the Trigger == Lathe coming
kgstakes replied to kgstakes's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I can see a dail indicator in the future for my lathe if for nothing else just because you can see what you’re doing. Digital would be better. We’ll see what the future brings. All kinds of options you can think of and see if they work. It’ll be fun working with my little lathe and see what I can do with it and I know in time just like anything else you’ll get better the more you use it. Thank you everyone again you’re all the greatest in my mind and I know if I need to find something out or have someone teach me singing new, jets the place to ask. Thanks appreciated -
Pulled the Trigger == Lathe coming
kgstakes replied to kgstakes's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
That’s what I was thinking just buy another one. I seen people turn them down to different jaws but me too I bought the collets and I’ll probably use them most of the time even if I turn a part for a piece for a miniature furniture project. My set goes up to 1/4 or a little more but not 3/8 diameter. just wondered if it was possible. I like the sherline 3 and 4 jaw (I think they make a 4 jaw) better than the taig chuck. i do like that you move the carriage right at the carriage instead of at the end of the lathe. I guess you get use to it but that was one of the reasons I went with taig. Happy with it so far, turned a few things (messing with it) but since I’m still down to only one hand still I’m not getting too serious about it yet. With finger tips crushed it’s hard to do anything let alone go to work. When you need both hands to do your job it’s a bitch if you can’t use one. Just take time to heal, but I got models to build😡🤪😀 -
Pulled the Trigger == Lathe coming
kgstakes replied to kgstakes's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I have a question on my taig lathe it comes with these rather large jaws on the 3 jaw chuck. Question, has anyone taken those jaws and milled or turned them down so you have step jaws? Hope I’m explaining these correct. Or would it be better to buy a step 3 jaw chuck? If turning them down to make a step jaws would it be easy enough to do for basically a beginner turner. -
I could be wrong on this (usually am) but now with the longer rod installed, can you put the xy table on the base of the drill press? Just curious looks like it works the way you have it configured.
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I like the size of your drill press. Would you say it is way better than a dremel tool in their drill press stand? See picture of my dremel setup.
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I think there is still a misunderstanding of what I'm trying to say as far as extending the 12 mm post. This video will show what I'm talking about. It worked on my full size drill press that I modified for what I needed and it will work for what any of you need to do to get more height under your drill press whether a large one or a tiny model one. Video (17).mov
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Other than the capacity is the drill press itself good quality?
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After reading some posts, are you trying to do drilling or milling operations? And if you’re drilling and something is flexing with the small bits we use they can only drill so fast. Less pressure new bit, a sharp bit and that may do wonders for your little drill press. If you’re doing a milling operation, this machine I doubt is made for the side loads for milling would put in this little drill press. question. can the sold bar be pushed through the base plate? If so, you have it up on a block, drill a hole in the block (12mm) push the rod down into the wood for more a secure “base” then add pipe and do what I suggested before add a piece of pipe and there you go. Stronger base and taller drill press.
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The 12mm bearings, your cutting the solid bar stock in two pieces and use one for the base and one for the bearings and fill in between with a piece of pipe and bolt tight. The length of pipe can be any length you want. The 12mm rod is still attached to the base and will still work in the bearings. Even if you don’t want to disassemble anything just cut the solid rod with a hack saw, move them apart the length you want and measure that length at a couple inches (or metric equivalent) drill some holes for bolts and tighten even torque it to make sure everything is back solid.
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To turn the material down yeah but refer to previous answer hollow post pipe? Hands tools that’s it.
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Chuck is that post solid or hollow? If hollow you need a hacksaw hand drill and some bolts. No special tools needed.
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12 mm = .5 inches why not just turn a 1/2” bar stick or metric equivalent and use that? Wouldn’t that be strong enough? Or maybe a better idea (I did this on one of my floor drill presses) take the bar or pipe post you have cut it so one part fits in the base just long enough so you could insert a smaller diameter tighten that part together with a bolt and then extend the smaller bar the amount you want raised and then take the rest of the original bar and insert that into the “head end” and tighten that all down with another bolt. Wouldn’t that work?
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Storage “box” for attachments and drill bits
kgstakes replied to kgstakes's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Yeah and I use it too to keep my tool tops like table saw band saw planer surfaces rust free and slick. Works great. -
Pulled the Trigger == Lathe coming
kgstakes replied to kgstakes's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
One other thing I wanted to ask (and I noticed). Is when turning, and this is with the Taig lathe (and their so called live center), is that you only turn or cut towards the chuck. True? Reason I ask, is when I was using the "live center" (which is only spring loaded and spins) when I was turning wood, it would suck it out of the chuck. Now I thought I tightened the chuck up, but has anyone with a Taig lathe had that happen to them as well? I know on my atlas lathe I can use mortise tapers ( 1 & 2 I believe), wondering is there any aftermarket places that make a better live center for the Taig lathe? -
Pulled the Trigger == Lathe coming
kgstakes replied to kgstakes's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I've read (unless I missed it) ways to align the tailstock to the chuck or collets. I've heard that you could turn a steel bar (or brass) to a sharp cone (point) and slide your tailstock up to it and align the two up. Seems like it would work (in theory), but in doing that this way, is there a chance that it would not be in alignment further away from chuck? Or would this be a "quick down and dirty" way of doing it ? I know some of you are professional machinists and want or need it within a thousandth or less but I just heard you could do it that way and it works. What do you guys think? Can be done, don't do it because not that accurate, or don't do it at all because it will eventually damage machine. Thank you all for your comments and I'll keep reading and learning. -
Pulled the Trigger == Lathe coming
kgstakes replied to kgstakes's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
In the picture see below I have some tooling some collets (which I was surprised that only one or two are completely open- can push material through headstock). The long shiny rod at the bottom is supposed to be a live center (it works but not what I expected). But yeah a longer tool rest would be very easy to build. It mounts directly to the bed ways so you loosen a bolt and move then lock it down. It’ll work not dissatisfied with any of the options just thought some…. Well, not what I was expecting. (Even though I seen pictures before I bought them). The 3 jaw I believe they are soft jaws but if not I can get some. Step jaw I like more than the single step on the taig 3 jaw chuck. all in all very happy with it so far and thank you for all your input. Greatly appreciated.
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Pulled the Trigger == Lathe coming
kgstakes replied to kgstakes's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Been thinking, I’ll probably be doing more wood turning on my lathe than metal but can you all look at the accessories I have and what else would you include for turning metal or wood? I’ll post picture here so you don’t have to go back and find it.
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After looking at all the pictures of the drill press you could pretty much put anything under the head. Looks to me all you have to do is replace the “support post”. Make a longer one. yeah you have to figure out how much travel you would really need for a table but I think a longer support post would cure that part of the problem. Course guess that part was obvious🤪🤪
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