kgstakes

I'd be interested in what you come with as well for a vise and X-Y axis. Question would a little machine shop or other small x-y table work? Just throwing out ideas. X-Y Table Assembly This small precision X-Y table can be used on a drill press or other machine to precisely locate your workpiece. The table is 90 mm (3.54") by 200 mm (7.87"). It has three 8 mm T-slots. The complete X-Y Table assembly is 10.5" wide, 9" deep and 2.9" high. The X-axis travel is 135 mm (5.31") and the Y-axis travel is 70 mm (2.76"). The height of the table is 60 mm (2.36"). The base is 100 mm (3.94") by 175 mm (6.89"). The dials are graduated in 0.001" and one turn of the hand wheels moves the table 0.050". The X-Y table is made of cast iron and steel. There are adjustable gibs on both axes. $189.95

It’s looking great just take your time and it doesn’t matter how long it takes if the end results keeps looking like the picture shows, nice crisp notches everything fits good just don’t get frustrated that it’s taking forever. You’re doing a great job.😀😀

Lathe base/storage cabinet finished. Nowheal up before doing any turning. Enjoy the video Video (10).mov

Oh just a side note. After building the cabinet (ash wood) the total weight is approx 64 lbs. course lathe weighs about 50 lbs (shipped) with motor and all accessories. Not bad to carry but wouldn’t want to go far with it. That was another consideration I had was balance when carrying it. Yes lathe is set back for damage control when carrying and also for balance when carrying it.

I put the lathe set in about an inch from the hand wheels of the carriage and cross slide so when I carry it the hand wheels are not hitting me in the belly and no damage will happen when I store the machine. I want the cabinet to get any damage that may happen before anything hits any part of the lathe. a foot switch is a good idea and I’ll have to look into getting one. Never thought about that, good safety feature when turning. I’ll show a picture after I get it all finished and assembled that would show how close to the front everything actually is for operation.

Lathe "cabinet" "storage base" which ever you want to call it, I've finished building it now for some spar varnish on everything and reassemble. After that maybe do some turning. Enjoy the pictures. I will post other pictures when all the finish work is done and reassembled.

Hurricane deck? Can you tell me why they call it that? lol do they can watch for hurricanes. Seriously though why do they call it that and is the “second” called something too? What’s they others called? Thanks for calling me out on that, I didn’t know what it was called just assumed.

Gregory, Have to laugh because my name is Kurt also. Then I realized you were talking about the other Kurt's answer regarding slitting blades. Sometimes things get a little confusing for this little brain to fully function correctly. I've only used "regular carbide wood blades for my table saw so when I seen people using slitting blades I wanted to know why. I assume better cut no set in the teeth and I can see if you wanted a dado or groove in your work piece it would give you a better cut, square bottom in the cut, etc. I sorta knew the answer to why everyone was using them but really didn't know where to look for them. I've seen them on Jim's website but I guess for some reason I thought it was a specialty item that you would use only for certain cutting operations. Not all the time. Good to know and I'll be looking for some thin blades and maybe be able to use them as a "stack dado" for future operations.

Oh sorry I know it won't fit the taig lathe with out major mods done to the jig. I believe it's for full size lathes but don't know for sure. It does fasten to the cross slide and I'll add here a link to blondihacks utube, and see all the parts and how it fastens to the lathe.

I was just wondering on utube and came across this little gismo. Don't know if it would really work for a mini lathe but I thought it was interesting enough to share with you all.

Now I have another question, why slitting blades for model work?

Sorry everyone that’s been following, been side tracked with a new tool. Right now I’m working on what I call 3rd deck of the river boat. Here’s how far I am so far and the deck is just sitting in the rest of the boat. Looks crooked in picture that’s why.

I guess I should have rephrased what I was asking. I need a blade that is 1/32 thick. Maybe you understood and I’m not understanding exactly what you’re saying 🤷🤷

kurtvd19, If I'm understanding this correctly, I could buy slitting blades and use them as a "dado set"? That would be nice, I do some ship building, honestly I'm building my first one now Mississippi Riverboat by Occre. But I also do miniature furniture and try to do the same joinery as I would do for full size pieces. Tell me more about these slitting blades or send me someplace and see what they do. Thank you for all your help.

I've made many "jigs" or "accessories" for my large table saw over the years and now that I have a modeling table saw I've duplicated many of the things I've done with my big table saw. Shown below are some of the "jigs and/or accessories" I've built for the model table saw. Like to see what everyone has done to make a job easier or more importantly safer. I use a piece of basswood as a sacrificial fence when cutting a groove on the edge of a board. Example shown next This is the side of a 1/12th scale dresser and the edge dado or groove was done with the sacrificial fence for no damage would happen to the actual fence. I use this jig to help hold small pieces down against the table when sawing. Use this to cut thin strips of wood. Everyone needs some sort of a push stick. Getting to the point have to redo the end again. My table saw sled. Use this a lot for cutting stock down to length or I use a stop block for multiple cuts. This one I use for making box joints for boxes or drawer construction. Finger board to keep stock up against fence. This jig I made to cut a taper on a table I was building. 1 degree taper. My first sled I built for the table saw and with this one I really use for multiple cuts. I use a stop block on this mostly. You can also do angle cuts by mounting a scrap block at the angle and then cut you piece. Then lastly, has nothing to do with the table saw just added here to show a storage idea for different accessories for your tools. These are for my Taig lathe but I've made others (similar to the 3 jaw chuck for holding table saw blades. What do you have for jigs, accessories, or tool storage ideas??

Keith, Work with what you have and hey, if it works and does the job you need, who cares what you use. Only thing anyone on here needs to do is be proud of the work they've done and that's it. Did you set up a jig to hold the drill? Got a picture of your set up?

That's good to know about the duplicator, I've been looking at them and wondering how good they do. I was thinking turning legs for tables, chairs, etc.

Chuck, I just want to say one thing, I'm amazed at what you do. I can "see" all the work you put into this project. Great job. I just drop my jaw with amazement with what you do and what everyone does on here.

What type of work do you all do on a lathe? I've heard some to masts, but what else have you made? Can you post pictures of what you've made so everyone can see? I'm working on building a base with a couple drawers for my Taig lathe but will get to turning a few things in the near future. Also, any fixtures you have made for your lathe would be cool to see too.

I see a discussion about where to get them was on here but I have another question. I know this is a ship building forum but I also build miniature furniture and was wondering what is the thinnest (I guess that's spelled right) blade you can get for a table saw? Reason I'm asking is I would like to make dadoes for drawers and use 1/32" (.79mm ??) thick material. I realize deflection and heat build up is an issue with thin blades but are they available that thin? Oh, and you all are using slitting blades for cutting, may I ask why? Are they thicker than a "normal" blade that you would use and more stable?

I found the table saw I was talking about earlier. I don't know anything about this guy but the saw looks like a beast. Problem I see with it is that it would probably cost so much to mass produce that it probably never came to market. Does anyone have this machine?

Jaagar, All I can say is the Proxxon works for the work I want to do with it. It will cut 3/4" thick oak (crosscut). I have no need to rip any thing thicker than 1/4" thick. I have a 10" tablesaw that I can take larger boards and cut it down close to the sizes I need and then use the proxxon for cutting pieces for modeling. I have other tools to do the hard work of milling large stock down for modeling. Tablesaw, Bandsaw, Sanders, Planers, etc. so I don't need to put the wear and tear on a much smaller motor than is necessary. I want to keep all my machines running for a very long time with out undo stress on small motors that can't handle that type of work day in day out. Yes, Brynes saw has a larger motor than the Proxxon, but why do work on a small machine that is basically max it out when you could purchase even a cheap full size tablesaw to do the heavy work for you. Again, I get great results, and I'm not here to say which is best, I was just comparing both machines, As you all probably did before you made a purchase. Micro Mark tablesaw may be a clone, the I highly doubt you can put the Proxxon in the same class as the Micro Mark. A lot of Miniature Machines that are copied. But none are as good as the original. a few years back I seen a table saw that way way higher grade than any other miniature saw. If I can find it I will post it and see if anyone has any information on it and or have used it. Thanks again for everyone's input about the two saws and their problems, their successes. Great to hear different opinions on the saws. LOL we all definitely proud of what we all have, no doubt.

I don't know what the older Proxxon tablesaws had for a "clamping devise" for the fence but as of a few years ago this is the way they have it now and it keeps the fence in line. You tighten the small knob and then tighten the larger one and seems to keep it straight and parallel. On the right side of the scale, there is a knob that you can turn to micro adjust the fence. Which helps in getting a very fine cut. What ever you own, use it, enjoy it, and happy building everyone !!!

One last thing about these saws (I think we’ve gone off course slightly a few times). Both saws are good for model making. One may be better than the other. I’ve had great success with the proxxon (my scale roll top desk was built entirely with the proxxon table saw (see picture). All with mortise and tenon joinery. If you like the Byrnes saw great, if you like the Proxxon saw great. I just picked the best one for my needs. Y’all picked the best one for your needs. If you know how to use the saw you purchased and can great results, that’s really all that matters. Who really cares what machine you have, heck you may have a home made saw that you get great results from and that’s great. i just started this thread to see what others have seen or compared these two saws like I did before chosing one to purchase. I think we’ve beat this dead horse enough let’s start something new or start a new title and continue with the “accessories” that we all have for the table saws. That would be nice to see and share with each other. (If it hasn’t already).

You say it’s not a true parallel, I beg to differ. Unless you’re looking for something down to the thousandths on an inch, you’re probably right. But explain to me how I can get these cuts (inside pieces) to fit if things are not parallel on a proxxon saw?? oh and this is the size of the box