kgstakes

I keep going back and forth on getting a smaller lathe or not. The lathe I have, this is information from my dad. Which might be true may not be but here’s what he remembers. The lathe he believes at first was in the ford motor company plant in Detroit. Then a man that worked there got it (have no idea if bought out given). That man had it for a few years in his own garage at home then sold it to a mechanic that would use it to true up arbors for something. Then my grandfather got it from him which in turn was given to my father and now to me. Between my grandfather and me it wasn’t used much. My grandfather got it back in the 50’s it doesn’t look like it had been used much but the headstock does have babitt instead of bearings and the headstock has little if no play in it. I’ve messed with it a little bit over the years but I’ve never turned metal with it. Only wood to make scale wagon wheel hubs. Like the ones shown on this 1/8 th scale stage coach I’ve been building off and on. I want to keep this lathe but for my “hobby shop” would like to have something smaller because of space and be able to move it around if needed.

This is what sherline has on there website for 3 & 4 jaw chucks. Not sure if it would fit my lathe but they say they offer it to sears lathes. Maybe back in the day sears and craftsman were not together then don’t know. Home » Products » Chucks and Collets » 3- and 4-Jaw Self-Centering Chucks Our 3- and 4-Jaw chucks are available in two sizes, 2.5″ and 3.1″. They are available with 3/4-16 threads for use on Sherline machines. The smaller 2.5″ chucks are available with other spindle threads to fit machines made by other manufacturers, such as 12 mm x 1 mm and 14 mm x 1 mm for older Unimat lathes or 1/2-20 for old 6″ Sears lathes.

Nothing wrong just big and not sure the jaws reverse. So the “step”? If the jaws go from outside — step down to center so you have these big “wings” you have to watch all the time turning close to the chuck. Just wanted something smaller. It’s 4” diameter I believe. Sorry guys the lathe is packed away when my wife and I moved to my father’s house to help him with daily “things”. Hope you know what I mean without getting into too much detail father.

Last night I Ed looking around and seen that sherline sells a 3 jaw chuck for the atlas craftsman lathe. I’d this true ??

Nice job looks real good clean and very detailed. I like it!!

I guess I should have added I can turn on it now for accurate 🤪🤪. But what I’ve done with it so far seems to work. Yeah the thread gauge? Is broke on it. And a pin is in bad shape to back gear it. The ways seem good, bed is flat, headstock bearing or what ever it is seems fair to good. So maybe I’ll around and maybe find a machinist to help with the tough parts/fixes, you all have convinced me to invest more time in it and figuring out what it really needs to have done for what I’m going to be turning. Thanks everyone for your input, appreciated.

I see what you mean by the blemish. As much trouble as it is probably replace it if nothing will cover it as you build on. Had the same problem with my river boat build but one of the rooms covered it and with furniture in there it didn’t show as bad.

I like the color and the width what’s it measure out to be 4-6 inches? Looks great what ever the width. Good job my friend.

This picture is not my lathe but it is the same as what I have. Fix it and use it??

Thank you for all your input, I messed up on my Atlas Craftsman lathe by not taking it to my father in law and have him go through it. He was a tool and die maker by trade and he offered to take a look at it and fix anything that was wrong with it. He passed away this year. The lathe works, just needs some TLC and I've never really dug into to see what really needs to be replaced. I built a cabinet for ( in high school) and that's in bad shape as well. That's an easy fix if I just do it. Don't know if anyone has a lathe like mine but any help would be appreciated in finding parts or just advise on what to do. Some time I'll post pictures of it and where I think the trouble is. Thank you for getting back with me on my lathe questions. I've been told it's a good lathe, just need to get my rear in gear and really look at it again.

I would like to purchase a lathe that I can turn both wood and metal (basically a metal lathe). Question is: has anyone ever used a wood lathe tool rest on a metal lathe? I know I may have to build something to mount it to the cross slide, but I was wondering if this is possible or even worth the trouble. I would probably to mostly wood, but would like the option of turning brass. I doubt I would ever turn mild steel on it (have a little bigger lathe for that). Speaking of that, I own an Atlas/Craftsman lathe -- I believe 6" turning capacity. Would I be better off just repairing what I have to repair or replace and use it for everything I want to turn? If the bigger lathe (Atlas/Craftsman) will work, can anyone point me in a direction to get parts?

Nice job on the mayflower. Your uncle will be proud to have and cherish the shop you built for him for years to come. Happy new year!!! Look forward to many more builds from you.

Greg (dvm27) wrote: My Proxxon had a slight bit of wobble when the fence was pushed. Perhaps such tight tolerances are not essential to the average ship model maker but keep in mind that many other hobbyists (such as luthiers) require .001" tolerances and I don't think you could repeatedly achieve these on the Proxxon without some modifications. Tolerances maybe true, it could also be true that you are pushing to hard against the fence to make the fence go out of alignment. Or the fence on your Proxxon is out of alignment to start with. I can get the tolerances I need for my miniatures. Besides, you have to remember, these saws are not full size and the force of your finger on the end of the fence on the proxxon, is way more force than you could ever put on a full size table saw fence. My fence on my full size table saw is mounted the same way the Proxxon is 'T' square arrangement. I used a dial indicator on my proxxon when I first received it from the manufacturer and adjusted it to be parallel to the blade. Which in turn is parallel to the miter slot. I haven't had any trouble with the fence on the Proxxon. The Byrnes saw in no way shape or form is a bad saw, yes, it's probably the best saw you can get for making straight, clean cuts. Lastly, I respect everyone that is on this forum and yes, I am an average modeler like many of us on this forum please respect that as well.

I was watching a video on the Byrnes table saw and they were demostrating all the different ways to use the saw and the attachments the Byrnes saw has. First, I have a Proxxon FET table saw and have never used a Byrnes table saw. And yes, Both are great table saws, probably Byrnes is the best for miniatures. But this is what I found out by watching the video and comparing it to the Proxxon FET that I own. Here are a few I seen about the Byrnes table saw compared to the Proxxon table saw. Byrnes fence -- need to unscrew to remove ( True ?? Loosen 4 screws to take of ? ) Proxxon fence -- unlock the two knobs and it slides off Byrnes sliding table -- I seen in the video that the slot for the blade is wider than the saw blade. ( seen in video that you need a backer board so no tear out on your work piece) True?? Proxxon --- as far as I know don't offer a sliding table. I made one and the slot is the width of the blade so no tear out, no backer board needed. Byrnes Miter table --- 1) do you have one? Do you use it? Often? Worth the money?? (seems you have to be very careful when using it). Proxxon --- Blade tilts, so your work piece stays flat. (one of the reasons I went with this table saw. Do I use it much ?? Occasionally. Byrnes blade change --- Seems simple enough. Proxxon blade change --- Seems simple enough. Byrnes Zero clearance insert --- Metal -- I'm assuming it's aluminum. Proxxon Zero clearance insert --- Plastic -- Wood blade won't dull as bad. And its seems to stay flat and wood not catch on it. Byrnes Miter gauge --- Excellent -- from the looks in the video, very well made, adjusts easily, accurately. Proxxon Miter gauge --- Sucks. It will do the job but yeah, sucks. Byrnes Micro adjustment -- Optional -- seems like it works very well. Proxxon Micro adjustment -- Standard -- works very well. Byrnes Miter gauge adjustable extension --- Looks very will built. But you attach with screws?? Proxxon Miter gauge adjustable extension --- Fair to good. Loosen a knob and is slides off. The stop on the fence is terrible. Proxxon extension table. Table works fine, the so called optional rip fence that is built into it. Terrible, don't use it at all. Overall on both saws. Byrnes has some great features, but I would like to see some of the attachments be easier to take on and off. Proxxon has some great features, but accessories that came with the saw, could be of better quality. What's your take on both of these saws?? I know many like their Byrnes and so to do many like the Proxxon. What could each manufacturer to better or what would you like to see changed?? or Improved on??

I’m pulling up a chair for this build!!! Can’t wait to see that waterfall go into the bottle. Your can do it!!

Bob, that model you show, that’s made all out of bone?? The rigging course not but the ship cannons etc are they?

Here’s an idea that I adopted from Adam savage (yeah I watch some of his utube stuff). Anyway he has a “first order of retrievability”. I took his idea and made a carrying box that has all the tools that I use always when building. First order of retrievability.mov

You know we all been talking about the power tools that we like and I got to thinking. Honestly, when I first got into the hobby of building plastic kits, model railroading, really the only power tool I had was a dremel. The other tools were all hand tools. x-acto knife, scale rule, some clothes pins for clamps, some rubber bands for clamping, toothpicks for a glue applicator. You all get the picture. So, for anyone just starting out in the hobby, don't get all hung up on you HAVE to have all these power tools we're all talking about. You can build some great looking models with just hand tools and a inexpensive dremel for cutting. That's really all you need. Then as time goes by and you want to buy some power tools, then go ahead. But don't let all this talk about power tools keep you from getting into the hobby of building all kinds of models. It's a great stress reliever and you may even find things that you thought you could never do really really enjoyable. So give this hobby a try... Ships, boats, cars, trucks, railroad, monsters, the list goes on and on. Thanks again to everyone here, it's been a pleasure looking at all the fine builds you all do. I keep striving to be a great of a modeler as you all are!! What's your take on this? Any additions? Subtractions? Like to hear what everyone else has to say on this subject.

You know we all been talking about the power tools that we like and I got to thinking. Honestly, when I first got into the hobby of building plastic kits, model railroading, really the only power tool I had was a dremel. The other tools were all hand tools. x-acto knife, scale rule, some clothes pins for clamps, some rubber bands for clamping, toothpicks for a glue applicator. Ya'll get the picture. So, for anyone just starting out in the hobby, don't get all hung up on you HAVE to have all these power tools we're all talking about. You can build some great looking models with just hand tools and a inexpensive dremel for cutting. That's really all you need. Then as time goes by and you want to buy some power tools, then go ahead. But don't let all this talk about power tools keep you from getting into the hobby of building all kinds of models. It's a great stress reliever and you may even find things that you thought you could never do really really enjoyable. So give this hobby a try... Ships, boats, cars, trucks, railroad, monsters, the list goes on and on. Thanks again to everyone here, it's been a pleasure looking at all the fine builds you all do. I keep striving to be a great of a modeler as you all are!!

That was one of the reasons I wanted them. Quality and as far as the slicer there is nothing out there that has the heft of a quality tool that this one does. I’ve cut so far up to 1/4” thick poplar with it. Cuts are excellent and yeah they’re expensive but like they say you get what you pay for. The sander I’m finding already that I go to it more than my little sanding block for touch ups. It’s just really handy and everything stays square!! Another word about expensive tools, for the most part and I’ll stand by this in my wood shop as well, buy the best you can afford. In time you will be able to buy more accurate tools and better tools. But as far as power tools, you really don’t need them. Many many great modelers (past and present) probably don’t have any power tools. They are the true craftsman of their trade as far as I’m concerned. Nothing beats doing things by hand and we all need to (world) just need to slow down just a bit and get your favorite beverage, put some easy listening music on and just slow down and build something by hand. I’ll guarantee you, you will be proud of what you’ve done and it will be time well spent. May even find you like it, like many of us and it’s our escape from all the busyness is our lives.

Here's a video just showing how accurate the machines are. Please I know there are other machines out there that may be just as good. I just didn't want a powered machine. And I liked the Ultimation tools. Thank you for your interest in anything I do, it is really appreciated. I really enjoy this forum and don't want to offend anyone. Yeah, we all have differences of opinion which is good and I'm really happy we all can talk about all kinds of things. Thanks again for allowing me to share my hobby with all of you. Video.mov

Please listen to video .......... I apologize for making anyone feel that a certain machine is no good. Please accept my apologizes. Hope it loads for all of you. Video (4).mov

I never mentioned that I also have a motorized disc sander from Jarmac I bought some 35-40 years ago. It's a good sander, but the speed of the motor is just too fast to make fine sanding adjustments. I've tried slowing it down with a foot rheostat, and the only thing it did was yes slow the motor down but I lost all the torque and the sander would stall as soon as I tried to sand. I was reading another post a few minutes ago regarding the Ultimation sander. Some were saying they would rather have a powered sander. Yeah, but what I've found with mine (Jarmac) is that I couldn't just take a thousandth off or fine tune a cut. And with hardwood, I would burn the end grain of the wood. I still like my little (4") disc sander (Jarmac) but for the things I'm working on now, I find myself using a little home made sanding block more than the powered disc sander. I believe the Ultimation sander will give me the best of both worlds, sand square and just a little bit off, and won't burn the wood. Plus, I don't have to listen to the high pitch wine of the motor and no sanding dust everywhere. Just got the sander and slicer from Ultimation, but I see me using both a lot more now that I have more control over the work piece than I did with a powered unit.

I tried my best at a video. If you’re looking for a solidly built tool these are. Cuts are great but on thicker material you need to cut long then trim to get square cut. Course they say that in the instructions. Overall, great tools. Mine will get allot of use in my miniature wood shop. IMG_1743.mov