kgstakes

You know we all been talking about the power tools that we like and I got to thinking. Honestly, when I first got into the hobby of building plastic kits, model railroading, really the only power tool I had was a dremel. The other tools were all hand tools. x-acto knife, scale rule, some clothes pins for clamps, some rubber bands for clamping, toothpicks for a glue applicator. You all get the picture. So, for anyone just starting out in the hobby, don't get all hung up on you HAVE to have all these power tools we're all talking about. You can build some great looking models with just hand tools and a inexpensive dremel for cutting. That's really all you need. Then as time goes by and you want to buy some power tools, then go ahead. But don't let all this talk about power tools keep you from getting into the hobby of building all kinds of models. It's a great stress reliever and you may even find things that you thought you could never do really really enjoyable. So give this hobby a try... Ships, boats, cars, trucks, railroad, monsters, the list goes on and on. Thanks again to everyone here, it's been a pleasure looking at all the fine builds you all do. I keep striving to be a great of a modeler as you all are!! What's your take on this? Any additions? Subtractions? Like to hear what everyone else has to say on this subject.

You know we all been talking about the power tools that we like and I got to thinking. Honestly, when I first got into the hobby of building plastic kits, model railroading, really the only power tool I had was a dremel. The other tools were all hand tools. x-acto knife, scale rule, some clothes pins for clamps, some rubber bands for clamping, toothpicks for a glue applicator. Ya'll get the picture. So, for anyone just starting out in the hobby, don't get all hung up on you HAVE to have all these power tools we're all talking about. You can build some great looking models with just hand tools and a inexpensive dremel for cutting. That's really all you need. Then as time goes by and you want to buy some power tools, then go ahead. But don't let all this talk about power tools keep you from getting into the hobby of building all kinds of models. It's a great stress reliever and you may even find things that you thought you could never do really really enjoyable. So give this hobby a try... Ships, boats, cars, trucks, railroad, monsters, the list goes on and on. Thanks again to everyone here, it's been a pleasure looking at all the fine builds you all do. I keep striving to be a great of a modeler as you all are!!

That was one of the reasons I wanted them. Quality and as far as the slicer there is nothing out there that has the heft of a quality tool that this one does. I’ve cut so far up to 1/4” thick poplar with it. Cuts are excellent and yeah they’re expensive but like they say you get what you pay for. The sander I’m finding already that I go to it more than my little sanding block for touch ups. It’s just really handy and everything stays square!! Another word about expensive tools, for the most part and I’ll stand by this in my wood shop as well, buy the best you can afford. In time you will be able to buy more accurate tools and better tools. But as far as power tools, you really don’t need them. Many many great modelers (past and present) probably don’t have any power tools. They are the true craftsman of their trade as far as I’m concerned. Nothing beats doing things by hand and we all need to (world) just need to slow down just a bit and get your favorite beverage, put some easy listening music on and just slow down and build something by hand. I’ll guarantee you, you will be proud of what you’ve done and it will be time well spent. May even find you like it, like many of us and it’s our escape from all the busyness is our lives.

Here's a video just showing how accurate the machines are. Please I know there are other machines out there that may be just as good. I just didn't want a powered machine. And I liked the Ultimation tools. Thank you for your interest in anything I do, it is really appreciated. I really enjoy this forum and don't want to offend anyone. Yeah, we all have differences of opinion which is good and I'm really happy we all can talk about all kinds of things. Thanks again for allowing me to share my hobby with all of you. Video.mov

Please listen to video .......... I apologize for making anyone feel that a certain machine is no good. Please accept my apologizes. Hope it loads for all of you. Video (4).mov

I never mentioned that I also have a motorized disc sander from Jarmac I bought some 35-40 years ago. It's a good sander, but the speed of the motor is just too fast to make fine sanding adjustments. I've tried slowing it down with a foot rheostat, and the only thing it did was yes slow the motor down but I lost all the torque and the sander would stall as soon as I tried to sand. I was reading another post a few minutes ago regarding the Ultimation sander. Some were saying they would rather have a powered sander. Yeah, but what I've found with mine (Jarmac) is that I couldn't just take a thousandth off or fine tune a cut. And with hardwood, I would burn the end grain of the wood. I still like my little (4") disc sander (Jarmac) but for the things I'm working on now, I find myself using a little home made sanding block more than the powered disc sander. I believe the Ultimation sander will give me the best of both worlds, sand square and just a little bit off, and won't burn the wood. Plus, I don't have to listen to the high pitch wine of the motor and no sanding dust everywhere. Just got the sander and slicer from Ultimation, but I see me using both a lot more now that I have more control over the work piece than I did with a powered unit.

I tried my best at a video. If you’re looking for a solidly built tool these are. Cuts are great but on thicker material you need to cut long then trim to get square cut. Course they say that in the instructions. Overall, great tools. Mine will get allot of use in my miniature wood shop. IMG_1743.mov

Just doing a few cuts and this is the result. The wood is 1/4x1/4 poplar so I had to cut a piece a little long then trim to get it square. The cut is fantastic !! A lot better than my chopper. They are built like a tank, I would guess 1/8” think steel not aluminum. The I wold say all is made from steel not aluminum. I’ll try basswood in a few minutes and post pictures maybe a video

Well Santa brought me a couple tools I been wanting for Christmas this year. Few minutes in the woodshop and made some bases for them. Been a great Christmas and yes, Mrs clause received some very nice things too. It works guys, make her happy, you’ll be happy!! Keep up the great work you all do and I’ll see you next year!! Merry Christmas everyone!!

Little farther along on my build. Second level pretty close to being done. Lights are in first and second decks, now a few more details for the second deck and then on to the next one.

After some painting and searching through my “detail parts” bin I pretty much have the second deck ready to install on the river boat. still need to install the lights for this level but I’m getting there.

Well been building a little bit at a time and doing allot of painting - chairs, tables, beds, barrels, etc. here’s where I am so far. Also, if anyone has trouble painting those ?!$&!? Barrel bands try what I ended up doing. Place some masking tape on a piece of glass paint black then cut really thin strips (banding material). Then what I did is all bands were on one end I super glued them in place. After the barrel was done I put a coat of dull coat to take the shine down. If the bands are crooked don’t worry that ones just loose😀. Be ready to get your fingers full of super glue but the result is better than I could ever free hand paint.

The Ultimation products are great. I have the Slicer and the Sander (course they're Christmas gifts) but I do have them just not in my workshop yet. (yeah boss lady said had to wait). Anyway, they are solidly made. Very accurate (yup had to at least try them). I have other power sanders but what I needed what a better way to cut strip wood, and then to square up the cuts the hand crank sander will do that job really well. What I like about the Ultimation Slicer is that it slices the wood rather than just chop it straight down and the blade on the "chopper" I have will crush the fibers (yeah it'll cut them but). And the Slicer has one side of the blade is straight and the other side is the bevel. So you only cut on one side the other side is your cut off side. Both tools are solidly built and I believe will hold up for years. Plus they say a lifetime warranty. I'd say if you're looking for something the cut strip wood or to touch up an edge, take a look at the ultimation products.

Glad I found this, I'm just using the box that the model came in for the wood storage and yeah sometimes have to hunt for the right "lumber" to use and I do have them some what separated out but not all of it. I did go buy another (I have many) small parts containers (like jaager has) and sorted all the metal casting parts out so I can just grab and paint them ahead of when I use them. As far as other lumber storage I made a cubed box that I could put all my scale lumber in but between moves (many) it has disappeared. So what I've been using (because I haven't built something better) is a piece of acrylic to support all my HO scale strip wood. Works with a rubber band around it but you still have to "hunt" for what you want. Some day I will make a storage box again for all my strip wood. What I have for my brass stock is very similar to the others with the cardboard tubes. My are from the fax machine roll paper (yeah still have a fax machine, why???) any way, I store the brass in them by size and it will fit upright in one of my workbench drawers. Great Ideas here, never even thought about using plastic fencing material. Have to look into that. I've seen the PVC pipe used for storage that's a good idea too. Keep up the great work everyone, I'm learning something every time I come here !!!!

If you can find 3/8 or 1/2 clear acrylic, that would be best. Would not use 1/8 inch, too weak unless braced allot which kind of defeats the purpose of a "shadow free" work area. 1/4 acrylic will work but then again, I would brace it pretty good. I worked at a place where we use acrylic to cut out signs etc. and the thicker you can get it the better. Also, be careful with the sheet, it may seem stable, but it does break, chip, easy ( 1/8 or 1/4 ) if handled roughly, until set in place. Nice idea and interested in seeing the finished table.

I’ll show a picture of what I did and maybe it will help others with a similar problem. I noticed right off the bat that one side of the first deck where the paddle wheel attaches, one side was lower than the other. I thought as I build this deck out that I could straighten when I installed the rear braces for the paddle wheel. When I first put the braces on (gluing) nothing straightened. So I thought what about some 00-90 bolts and bolt it to the wall and to the deck. Well what I actually did was I drilled hole in each side of the wall where the beam attached, drilled into the end of the beam and also down through the beam and deck. Super glue a 00-90 bolt through the wall into the end of the beam (I made that hole smaller so I actually “threaded” the super glued bolt into the end of the beam through the wall), and then bolted with 00-90 n-b-w through the beam through the deck. Made sure everything was level with each other and it worked!! See picture of the finished “bolted” beams.

I'm not sure if this has been said or covered before (sorry if it has). Acrylic artist paints work great for airbrushing. I don't thin my paints with water, I use windshield washer fluid (summer not winter kind). I have had no problems with my airbrush with this and clean up is very easy. Also, (sorry don't remember your name) but when they said to try artist colors and mix your own colors, I've done this and with the help from my wife (I'm color blind) I can match any color I choose. Brush painting with acrylic artist colors are a joy to work with. When finished, clean brushes with soap and water and you done. I've used many paint brands over the years and the one I've used most for model buildings was Floquil paints and stains. I've used Polly S in the past and back in my plastic car building days (70's) I used testors paints (spray cans and brush paints). I'm sold on artist acrylic paints for the ease of use in an airbrush and for the easy clean up when brush painting. I've even used them for some weathering but I still like my caulks better for this. If you haven't tried these paints give it a try.

Oh yeah!! I'll continue to follow you on this build and others that you do and/or have done. And especially thank you all for leading me to some figures I can use for my build. As for the cowboy hats and such, a little creative "modeling" I bet I can change a few hats to bowlers. Dresses now on the other hand not sure about but hey it's just plastic and a knife a little modeling putty and some paint and you can make anything "look" what you want people to "see". Look forward to more great things and ideas. Thanks again to everyone and keep up the great work that all of you do.

Just looked you up to see what you are building and it looks great!! I see the build is in 1/87th scale. I have a HO scale model railroad besides building the Mississippi riverboat kit and was wondering is your riverboat going to be part of a scene on a model railroad? Or do you like to build in that scale for some other reason? I'm not sure but I'm hoping that the Mississippi River boat that I'm building which is 1/80th, I'm hoping that I can use some HO scale figures to detail the boat with. What is your opinion on that? Is there some "period figures" in 1/80th that can be purchased some where? Anyway, be interested to see more on your build, so far again looks great and I like the idea of using trees "materials" from your property. Makes building more fun and enjoyable when you can say you made this from literally scratch. "Log to Model" should be a tag line of yours. Keep up the good work !!

Little bit more progress on the river boat. First deck the only thing I have to do is the engine compartment and I believe that part of the build is done. Here are some pictures of my progress. Since starting a new job my modeling has taken a back seat but will keep you up to date as I go. Oh and I have started adding lights to each deck.

I’ve been following this build and I’ve enjoyed every part of it. Being a beginner to ship building, all the lingo is foreign to me but I figure things out as you go. Impressive build for sure!! I learn something every time.

I have made progress on the riverboat build. This is but isn't about the model. It's how a video of my wood shop "taken over" by this build. I have things spread out but "slightly" organized. Enjoy the video and comment if you work area looks similar or am I just to spread out because I have the room. Shop Riverboat project.mov

Have the first walls ready to install on the hull of the river boat. Next up, next floor. Enjoy!!

Before I start building up the sides, etc. I seen that a few steps later it says to paint the bottom of the first deck. Well instead of building it up why not paint it now. So, I spend about 15-20 minutes and masked everything but what I want to paint (airbrush). I like airbrushing because it gives me a better finish than brush painting and to me I can get a sharp edge between parts I want to spray. Here is the result. Comments? Suggestions?

1/8" = 1 ft I need a harbor on my HO layout so it has a place to make port !!! Great job !!! I'm a beginner at building ships, you guys are talented !!