kgstakes

Don’t remember who asked but I believe my atlas craftsman lathe (101.07301) was built between 1939-1950. As far as I can tell on the ole interweb. I’m going to look into getting it cleaned up painted and repairs done to it. keep in my workshop for larger projects and keep looking and learning about smaller lathes. Money not a problem, I got all the time in the world to save up😀😀🤪. taig lathe or sherline is probably what I’ll go with for my hobby shop.

That looks great good job

Appreciate the information. Yeah like I’ve said I’ve turned on a wood lathe before (few years back) but really don’t know too much about metal lathes. I’ll think about what I want to do but for now the lathe I had will work for turning some of the stuff I’ve tried. Smaller lathes might suit miniature turnings better maybe not. As you can tell still rolling things over in my head.

Navyshooter, thank you for the advise. Very sound advise I might add. I want to turn tiny spindles for chairs and other furniture pieces in 1/12 scale. And maybe a pen or pencil kit. I’d like to try turning some 1/12 or 1/8th scale wagon wheel hubs. I’m a woodworker professionally have turned a few things on a wood lathe. But I have this metal lathe which is workable but I think the size of it is what is hanging me up on using it more. Maybe different attachments would I would use it more but I’ve really always wanted a watch makers lathe. For some reason they intrigued me. Just like the size, so I was looking at some mini lathes that I might be able to add to my mini tools that I have. Thank you for the advice and yes I will be looking at my options and what I really really want to do with a lathe and make a decision. Thanks again

I think I need to clarify something here. I build all kinds of models and or miniatures. Yes, I would like to turn at least brass once in a while, but I would mainly be turning wood. Wood spindles for chairs, staircases, columns on porches, maybe even a pen or pencil kit. And I guess my biggest worry about the lathe I have is getting to close to the chuck. That thing will tear you up if to get your finger or something a little to close to it when sanding a little part. I would like to find a much smaller chuck maybe even a 4 jaw. Or a 1/2" capacity drill chuck to turn stuff. The headstock takes a #2 and the tailstock is a #1. Really would like to find a live center for the tail stock for it. That's the first piece I would get for my lathe is a live center. I do realize that mixing metal and wood together on one lathe would be a mess if you're turning metal allot. With all the lube you have to do for turning metal, oh yeah, turning wood would be a mess to clean up and with all the gears, threads, on a metal lathe full of cutting oil yeah I can see how everyone is saying to cover your machine up. It would get ugly real quick.

This is the type of headstock I have on my lathe. This picture was taken from vintage machinery. I think this is the part of the lathe that needs some TLC. Not the babitt, but the small pins inside there I've oopsed a few times and maybe broke something because it won't engage the back gears shown in the picture anymore. The lathe pictured is again not mine. But the over all condition is very close to the condition of the lathe I have. Like I said previously, the lathe I have wasn't abused in anyway (just by me trying to figure things out). And no mine does not have bearings. So, it could be a pre war era machine, I have no idea.

I keep calling it a 6” lathe because that is the capability of it. The plate says 101.07301 which does have babitt for bearings. Dad always called if a 6” lathe so that’s what I’m calling it. Since my lathe is packed away from the move to dads house I’ll try to find pictures of the head stock on line and post them here so you all can see what I’m talking about with the babitt bearing

I keep going back and forth on getting a smaller lathe or not. The lathe I have, this is information from my dad. Which might be true may not be but here’s what he remembers. The lathe he believes at first was in the ford motor company plant in Detroit. Then a man that worked there got it (have no idea if bought out given). That man had it for a few years in his own garage at home then sold it to a mechanic that would use it to true up arbors for something. Then my grandfather got it from him which in turn was given to my father and now to me. Between my grandfather and me it wasn’t used much. My grandfather got it back in the 50’s it doesn’t look like it had been used much but the headstock does have babitt instead of bearings and the headstock has little if no play in it. I’ve messed with it a little bit over the years but I’ve never turned metal with it. Only wood to make scale wagon wheel hubs. Like the ones shown on this 1/8 th scale stage coach I’ve been building off and on. I want to keep this lathe but for my “hobby shop” would like to have something smaller because of space and be able to move it around if needed.

This is what sherline has on there website for 3 & 4 jaw chucks. Not sure if it would fit my lathe but they say they offer it to sears lathes. Maybe back in the day sears and craftsman were not together then don’t know. Home » Products » Chucks and Collets » 3- and 4-Jaw Self-Centering Chucks Our 3- and 4-Jaw chucks are available in two sizes, 2.5″ and 3.1″. They are available with 3/4-16 threads for use on Sherline machines. The smaller 2.5″ chucks are available with other spindle threads to fit machines made by other manufacturers, such as 12 mm x 1 mm and 14 mm x 1 mm for older Unimat lathes or 1/2-20 for old 6″ Sears lathes.

Nothing wrong just big and not sure the jaws reverse. So the “step”? If the jaws go from outside — step down to center so you have these big “wings” you have to watch all the time turning close to the chuck. Just wanted something smaller. It’s 4” diameter I believe. Sorry guys the lathe is packed away when my wife and I moved to my father’s house to help him with daily “things”. Hope you know what I mean without getting into too much detail father.

Last night I Ed looking around and seen that sherline sells a 3 jaw chuck for the atlas craftsman lathe. I’d this true ??

Nice job looks real good clean and very detailed. I like it!!

I guess I should have added I can turn on it now for accurate 🤪🤪. But what I’ve done with it so far seems to work. Yeah the thread gauge? Is broke on it. And a pin is in bad shape to back gear it. The ways seem good, bed is flat, headstock bearing or what ever it is seems fair to good. So maybe I’ll around and maybe find a machinist to help with the tough parts/fixes, you all have convinced me to invest more time in it and figuring out what it really needs to have done for what I’m going to be turning. Thanks everyone for your input, appreciated.

I see what you mean by the blemish. As much trouble as it is probably replace it if nothing will cover it as you build on. Had the same problem with my river boat build but one of the rooms covered it and with furniture in there it didn’t show as bad.

I like the color and the width what’s it measure out to be 4-6 inches? Looks great what ever the width. Good job my friend.

This picture is not my lathe but it is the same as what I have. Fix it and use it??

Thank you for all your input, I messed up on my Atlas Craftsman lathe by not taking it to my father in law and have him go through it. He was a tool and die maker by trade and he offered to take a look at it and fix anything that was wrong with it. He passed away this year. The lathe works, just needs some TLC and I've never really dug into to see what really needs to be replaced. I built a cabinet for ( in high school) and that's in bad shape as well. That's an easy fix if I just do it. Don't know if anyone has a lathe like mine but any help would be appreciated in finding parts or just advise on what to do. Some time I'll post pictures of it and where I think the trouble is. Thank you for getting back with me on my lathe questions. I've been told it's a good lathe, just need to get my rear in gear and really look at it again.

I would like to purchase a lathe that I can turn both wood and metal (basically a metal lathe). Question is: has anyone ever used a wood lathe tool rest on a metal lathe? I know I may have to build something to mount it to the cross slide, but I was wondering if this is possible or even worth the trouble. I would probably to mostly wood, but would like the option of turning brass. I doubt I would ever turn mild steel on it (have a little bigger lathe for that). Speaking of that, I own an Atlas/Craftsman lathe -- I believe 6" turning capacity. Would I be better off just repairing what I have to repair or replace and use it for everything I want to turn? If the bigger lathe (Atlas/Craftsman) will work, can anyone point me in a direction to get parts?

Nice job on the mayflower. Your uncle will be proud to have and cherish the shop you built for him for years to come. Happy new year!!! Look forward to many more builds from you.

Greg (dvm27) wrote: My Proxxon had a slight bit of wobble when the fence was pushed. Perhaps such tight tolerances are not essential to the average ship model maker but keep in mind that many other hobbyists (such as luthiers) require .001" tolerances and I don't think you could repeatedly achieve these on the Proxxon without some modifications. Tolerances maybe true, it could also be true that you are pushing to hard against the fence to make the fence go out of alignment. Or the fence on your Proxxon is out of alignment to start with. I can get the tolerances I need for my miniatures. Besides, you have to remember, these saws are not full size and the force of your finger on the end of the fence on the proxxon, is way more force than you could ever put on a full size table saw fence. My fence on my full size table saw is mounted the same way the Proxxon is 'T' square arrangement. I used a dial indicator on my proxxon when I first received it from the manufacturer and adjusted it to be parallel to the blade. Which in turn is parallel to the miter slot. I haven't had any trouble with the fence on the Proxxon. The Byrnes saw in no way shape or form is a bad saw, yes, it's probably the best saw you can get for making straight, clean cuts. Lastly, I respect everyone that is on this forum and yes, I am an average modeler like many of us on this forum please respect that as well.

I was watching a video on the Byrnes table saw and they were demostrating all the different ways to use the saw and the attachments the Byrnes saw has. First, I have a Proxxon FET table saw and have never used a Byrnes table saw. And yes, Both are great table saws, probably Byrnes is the best for miniatures. But this is what I found out by watching the video and comparing it to the Proxxon FET that I own. Here are a few I seen about the Byrnes table saw compared to the Proxxon table saw. Byrnes fence -- need to unscrew to remove ( True ?? Loosen 4 screws to take of ? ) Proxxon fence -- unlock the two knobs and it slides off Byrnes sliding table -- I seen in the video that the slot for the blade is wider than the saw blade. ( seen in video that you need a backer board so no tear out on your work piece) True?? Proxxon --- as far as I know don't offer a sliding table. I made one and the slot is the width of the blade so no tear out, no backer board needed. Byrnes Miter table --- 1) do you have one? Do you use it? Often? Worth the money?? (seems you have to be very careful when using it). Proxxon --- Blade tilts, so your work piece stays flat. (one of the reasons I went with this table saw. Do I use it much ?? Occasionally. Byrnes blade change --- Seems simple enough. Proxxon blade change --- Seems simple enough. Byrnes Zero clearance insert --- Metal -- I'm assuming it's aluminum. Proxxon Zero clearance insert --- Plastic -- Wood blade won't dull as bad. And its seems to stay flat and wood not catch on it. Byrnes Miter gauge --- Excellent -- from the looks in the video, very well made, adjusts easily, accurately. Proxxon Miter gauge --- Sucks. It will do the job but yeah, sucks. Byrnes Micro adjustment -- Optional -- seems like it works very well. Proxxon Micro adjustment -- Standard -- works very well. Byrnes Miter gauge adjustable extension --- Looks very will built. But you attach with screws?? Proxxon Miter gauge adjustable extension --- Fair to good. Loosen a knob and is slides off. The stop on the fence is terrible. Proxxon extension table. Table works fine, the so called optional rip fence that is built into it. Terrible, don't use it at all. Overall on both saws. Byrnes has some great features, but I would like to see some of the attachments be easier to take on and off. Proxxon has some great features, but accessories that came with the saw, could be of better quality. What's your take on both of these saws?? I know many like their Byrnes and so to do many like the Proxxon. What could each manufacturer to better or what would you like to see changed?? or Improved on??

I’m pulling up a chair for this build!!! Can’t wait to see that waterfall go into the bottle. Your can do it!!

Bob, that model you show, that’s made all out of bone?? The rigging course not but the ship cannons etc are they?

Here’s an idea that I adopted from Adam savage (yeah I watch some of his utube stuff). Anyway he has a “first order of retrievability”. I took his idea and made a carrying box that has all the tools that I use always when building. First order of retrievability.mov