TJM

Fantastic work!

Log Entry 27 - modelling the stern friese I am still working on the fit of the quarter galleries, but as I decided to remodel the friese in actual 3D (not just a raised relief/projection), I have been working on that. I am very happy with the overall shape and together with the galleries, it is really shaping up now. There are still some rough spots at some of the joints between parts, and I think I will print the stern and side galleries seperately, and then some of the ornaments are still missing (tiny lion heads I and som garlands, flowers, etc. ) It will take some more (probably rather difficult) work to get it to the final shape - I may print a test version at some point to se how the fit is. I find it very satisfying to see the whole thing in 3D, but I also find that the dimentional accuracy of the resin printing is not super good for large parts, both due to uncertainty in the z-axis (layer thickness) but even more the warping flat parts. Over such large pieces, you quickly more a milimeter or more from the target and that makes it very difficult to fit onto the model in a prcise way. So I think I basically have to iterate with a buch of trials, which is quite tedieous with the resin printing process! We'll see how it turns out in the end 🙂 BR TJM

Ok, I made a quick edit of the roof and here is a comparison: the previous version on the left, the new one on the right: The new one looks much more natural, with the lean towards the stern. Thank a lot for pointing this out Matthias! In the end, the change took just a few minutes to do, so very much worth it! This version is also a bit re-scaled (the comparisson on the left is as well) compared to the print I made, so I will try this one and see if the fit with the hull is better now.

Hi Matthias, I see what you mean! Dome of it is due to the perspective, especially in the last image, and som of it is due to the way I made the roof. The thing is, the QG area is largest at the rear, so I have stretched the shape in that end to cover more of the area. Snd conversely, I need it to be compressed in the forward end, to make it fit the shallow roof there. Unfortunately that gives an impression of leaning forward a bit, from some angles. I am contemplating if there is anything I can do a bout this - perhaps there is. My problem is that I cannot stretch just the top part backwards with the simple tools I use, but I will see if I can find a workaround. Thanks for pointing it out to me! BR TJM

Alright, even though the 3D model has a few rough spots, I hoped that the tiny scale and the antialiasing used in the slicer on export would work in my favor. And I am very happy to report that it did! The finish looks really great and all the details pop. The prints cane out basically perfect. So I am very encouraged by this. Now, the fit for my Christiania is not quite good enough. I am not sure exactly what has happened, but the lower part and the top are both a bit too tall. The window portion seems to fit fine. So I will be scaling some parts of the model a bit and trying again to get a better fit. It wil likely not be perfect, so a bit of filler will be needed, but that is ok. Stay tuned for more experiments soon...

Here is a few of the latest additions - these are 17th century crew, officers and soldiers for future ship projects from that period. I have some very thin parts that would be completely un-viable for any commercial production. They all printed fine, but I broke a few during work-up. But I can just try a few times until I manage. These use very little resin at 1:64 scale.

Hi Brunnels, I am by no means an expert at all, but here is my take: 1. Yes, but it is borderline with all the accessories needed, especially for washing, curing and installation. I think my printer was just around 200 USD, an Elegoo Mars 4 DLP. 2. Yes, it does. You will find opinions that it is totally harmless and those that say it is extremely toxic. The truth is probably somewhere in between. You need very good ventilation to the outside and a space that you can close off to the rest of the house when you have resin in the open. You should also avoid touching the resin - it is not super toxic, but it will cause allergic reactions. Either right away or over time. And I really dislike the smell which is quite strong when handling it in the open. I have the printer and the laser cutter hooked up to a small manifold with a big 200 mm fan. The printer is placed in a small growth tent - perfect for the purpose as I can ventilate it and keep stray light out. I keep the resin in the vat between runs and have a bathroom ventilator turned on when I am not printing to ensure no vapors seep into the adjacent living area. This is my setup: When I handle open or uncured resin I wear a half mask with organic vapor filters and I wear nitrile gloves - I use a lot of gloves and change them when I have touched uncured resin before I spread it around. I collect gloves and tissues in clear bags and uv cure them before disposal. I use water washable resin but still do a final rinse in IPA and collect water and IPA in clear plastic bottles that I can cure before I dispose of the content (or re-use the IPA). I am a chemist and this is what I have found to suitable for safe handling based on the safety data sheets and handling of similar chemicals in the lab. I wash twice with water and twice with IPA and reuse the wash medias many times before changing them. I do the wash in IKEA tupperware with silicone seals, very easy to use and keep. And I can cure them from time to time. It is a bit of hassle, but no step is difficult on its own and once you get the hang of it, it is not difficult and it does not take a lot of time. But I think you need a small dedicated space to make it hassle-free. 3. I am not sure what the machine can take, but the resin really needs to be at the right temperature, which is around 25C. Anything below 20C is supposed to work very poorly. I don't know about high temperatures but, I have printed with no issues up to around 30C. I guess this is very resin dependent! I have a heater inside the printing cabinet and have an electric radiator for the small room for winter use. I do think operating around living room temperature is preferable! This became a very long post, I hope it helps! I am happy to provide input and try to answer any questions you may have, but I also know there a much more experienced printers on this forum! BR TJM

Log entry 26 - trying to model the side galleries Hi everyone, It has been quiet in this log for a good long while now - I have been on summer holydays, and after, I have been doing garden projects and working a bit on my Elben project. But even though planking is going painfully slow, I am working on other parts of this build as well. One of them is the stern decorations and side aglleries. I had originally though I would just make up modified parts for the side galleries, but the more I though about it, getting close to the drawings seemed to me a difficult task. I therefore decided to try to model the whole side gallerie in 3D, hoping I will be able to 3D print the whole thing. I have no prior skills in this area, and I am not ready to start learning to actually model in a 3D CAD program, so I have been using some workarounds: I am drawing simple parts based on the original scalled drawings in QCAD. Then I load these into Onscape and extrude them to a resonably close thickness (I can modify this later, so it does not need to be procise). Then I import into the slicing software I use for the 3D printer and build everything in there. This is surely a bad way of doung it, but the interface in the slicer is super simple and at the same time offers full flexibility when it comes to positioning and scaling parts - I just can't make any more advanced modifications to the individual parts, except for straight cuts! I am not done yet, but this is the current state of things: Here are the original drawing I am trying to approximate: I am happy with the overall shape, except for the very lowest portion of the side gallery - it is a very dificult geometry, and I just can't get it wide at the bottom. I may end up just deviating a bit from the drawings in this area. I have tried many multiple times and it just ends up looking bad. I would rather have a deviation from the original that looks good, than something cunky and ugly! I am still in the process of adding ornaments and I just started the modelling of the stern face. I am not sure I will 3D print the rear windows, but I would be nice to have the window frames match the side galleries, so maybe I will give it a shot. The friese is blank here - as you can see in the posts above, I have modelled the friese, but in a flat version. I figured a way to get the correct, thick 3D shape and I think I will import my other friese file and transfer the design to the curved surface. I will then re-print it to get a much better final shape of that piece. No matter what, I will print the stern friese and/or windows seperately from the two side galleries. I think I will do an export and make a test print before moving much further, just to see if this is a viable approach at all - it is a time sink to do this, so I want to make sure it is worth it! BR TJM

Beautiful! And that hull...!! 🤩

@chris watton, are you using lase etched pear parts for the decorative columns and border? They look great!

I am sure this will be a magnificent kit, can't wait to see the build here! Just the part shots above is enough to show that this will be great!

It does sound reasonable, but the little circumstantial evidence I have seen suggests that it may have been coppered. The model of the smaller sister ship Delphinen at the War Museum in Copenhagen is shown as coppered, and it was a guard ship at Nyborg, which is entirely within the 'home water' boundary. I don't know if the model builder Peter Maack had any hard evidence of the coppering of Delphinen, but I will go with it on this model as well.

That makes good sense, thanks!

I think they are asymmetric to simulate an overlap of the plates, but I am not sure why I need different patterns on left and right. Of course that is necessary if I have to have symmetry between the two sides of the ship, so perhaps it doesn't matter which I use for left and right, as long as I stick with a decision?

Log entry 12 - painting: white black and red I have been looking forward to this since I began the build: painting the main colours. This is when you really get a god idea of how the final piece will appear at the end, even though there is much left to do. I started masking of the deck and the whales and painted the outer and inner bulwarks white: It is actually a light gray primer and then pure white on top, but only a light coat. So the end result is not completely white. This is preferable and allows for more details to be seen as well as create subtle shadows. The next day, I masked off everything except from the bulwarks down to the waterline and painted that black: Lastly, I masked off everything but the trim stripe and painted that red, using three layers: light brown, dark red and the the final flat red (from Vallejo). I was very excited when I pealed off all the layers of masking tape, and very pleased with the result! I had no bleed in any spots and in particular the waterline came out basically perfect. It is almost a shame I will be coppering the hull below the waterline, I will definitely not be able to get close to such a nice line with the copper plates. But coppering was one of the main reasons for this subject, so I will continue with that plan. Here's a few close-ups of the bow and stern: It looks quite rough in these images, much more so than in real life! Macro shots are cruel... It looks ok from 30-50 cm away, and totally fine at 'normal' viewing distance. I may do a bit of filler and touch-ups in the worst places. Here is a few overall shots of the current status (with cannons): Alright, there will be a bit of a pause in the log as I am headed for vacation. But when I return, I will begin coppering. I have acquired some 1:64 copper plates from Amati (the ones used on their Mercury and Pegasus kits), and I know there is a right and a left sheet, but can anyone tell me which is which? (And why it is that way around...). BR TJM