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bcochran

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Everything posted by bcochran

  1. bcochran
    Hello Kevin, Per Longridge the Cutty Sark had 26 bulwark stanchions per side. There were 5 different types. I wasn't going to go into that much detail making 5 different types and I did not add the horizontal bar portion to them. Here is how I judge what I am doing and how much work I want to put into it. If I can look at my model in any particular place and feel that it looks "shippy" all though it is just a representation, I am happy with it. Those wedges just did not look right, nor did the bulwarks without the lozenges. I have the starboard side done, and I get the right feeling when I look at them. The other major thing that I think doesn't look right are the Revell deadeyes. I look at some builds using them and there is an angle to the plastic deadeye and the rope tied to it, rather than a straight line from the lower deadeye to the point on the mast where it ends. So I am going to attempt to use individual deadeyes. I used Krylon metallic bras spray paint on the binnacle. I like all the detail you are putting into your model, and feel much of it is beyond my talents. I know nothing about 3D printing. I wanted the deck to look better than what I could have done with the plastic. The rest of the detail just would not be so pleasing to my eye if the deck didn't have the same level of detail. The pictures I am including with this post is a model that is in the Mormon museum in Salt Lake city. It has always been my inspiration to build a ship model. I needed my deck to have the same level of detail.
  2. bcochran
    I am not going to replace the belay pins. I read most of the other builds where the correctness of the Revell Cutty Sark kit is discussed. I am amazed I made it this far. I almost completed the large Revell USS Constitution up to the beginning of the rigging and spent a lot of time agonizing about the correctness of that kit, including what color she was in 1812 on her last voyage, did she have gun port covers or not? I added hammock netting, railing around the deck openings, thickened the hull around the gun ports and lots of other things until it got too boring and time-consuming. This time I decided not to do that, or I would never finish.
  3. bcochran
    Shipman, In Noel C. L. Hackney's book on page 35 about making eyebolts, he says "with 3/4 inch rod formed to a 2 1/4 inch hole and 1 inch rod formed to a 4 3/4 inch hole". What in the H E Double Hockey Sticks does that mean? Is he talking about actual 1 to 1 scale, or is it some magical 1:168 Airfix scale measurement? Later he says to bend 40 SWG wire round a 1/64 inch drill for the small ones and bend 38 SWG wire round a 1/32 inch drill for the large. Of what useful information is his first description of what to do? What ever, how big are the eyebolts that he is telling you to make? This makes no sense to me. I bought some model railroad HO lift rings on eBay to use for making jackstays. The seller said they were 2 1/4 inch size. I ignored that because it made no sense, I know what size HO lift rings are, so I bought a ton of them. I got them, and they are more like N Gauge lift rings. I sent them back as unusable for my purposes. Why do these people use such meaningless information? What I need to know is the size of the actual eyebolt I am buying not what 1 to 1 scale size they are.
  4. bcochran
    Starboard pin rails
  5. bcochran
    This experiential deadeye was colored with a white paint pen and a sharpy.
  6. bcochran
    They are little ginger bread deadeyes so that if I get tired doing this I can eat them all.
  7. bcochran
    I ordered some white floral wire. It will take a few days to get here. I am not sure if it will work. I was going to blacken the deadeyes with a magic marker.
  8. bcochran
    I use a pin vice and slowly drill the hole. The thing that is touchy for me is to not break the belaying pins off.
  9. bcochran
    I have his book. I am reading Underhill's "Masting and Rigging" to get a basic understanding of standing and running rigging.
  10. bcochran
    I drilled holes in the pin rail for the deadeye strops. These holes will be used to drill holes in the waterway. The strops will have a long wire end which will be glued to the waterway and the pin rail. I used the kit deadeyes to mark where the holes should be drilled. I am experimenting with a deadeye.
  11. bcochran
    White panels on the starboard bulwark,
  12. bcochran
    Thank you. What size thread and what composition (linen, silk, cotton ?) would you use to rig the dead eyes of my size? I am just learning about rigging. I am reading Harold A. Underhill's book "Masting and Rigging." In the article about the building of revell's Cutty Sark in Model Ship Builder Jan/Feb 1986, the author rigged the deadeyes off the ship because of their position next to the bulwarks. I might try that.
  13. bcochran
    The deck at this point. Next I need to finish the white panels on the bulwarks and the hull decorations. Then begin the pin rails and deadeyes. The mainmast is only temporarily stepped.
  14. bcochran
    Great work. Gives one inspiration.
  15. bcochran
    Beautiful. I hope I get that far along.
  16. bcochran
    I added the starboard bow stanchions. They are not the same size as the stern stanchions, but I'll live with them. I had to counter sink them into the rail. I don't like the cathead sticking out there like that. I hope I don't break it off.
  17. bcochran
    I was hoping to see more of your model. I could pick up pointers I'm sure.
  18. bcochran
    I got my deadeyes and stanchions today. The deadeyes seem too small. I was told that 3.5 mm and 2.5 mm are the right size to get, but they look very hard to work with. I have never rigged a ship model, so this is all new to me.
  19. bcochran
    windlass pump
  20. bcochran
    White panels on the deck houses
  21. bcochran
    rwiederrich, You can't see your images of your Cutty Sark build on Fine Scale Modeler. Do I need to join to see them?
  22. bcochran
    A look astern as is so far.
  23. bcochran
    Nice to know my work might give someone a buzz.
  24. bcochran
    Shipman you are right the model looks to be different from the actual ship in that area. The model is out of proportion to the real thing in areas such as my railings. I never intend the model to be an exact replica in every detail. It is a representation of the Cutty Sark as a painting is a representation. If and when I ever complete it and someone looks at it, they should get an idea of what the ship looked like in the late 1880's not as it looks today.
  25. bcochran
    This is a quote from "The Log of the Cutty Sark" by Basil Lubbock, p234. It is about J. Selby mate of the Cutty Sark in her wool days. It describes the ship's look. "In port he invariably was out in a boat every evening when the "Cutty" was lying off, and was most particular in seeing that the masts were aligned to the last fraction of an inch and the yards dead square. Indeed the Cutty Sark was never more perfectly kept than when Selby was mate. Under him her bright work was always kept well cleaned and varnished, and the white paint of the iron bulwarks, panels of the deck-houses and monkeypoop was always spotless." This was just before 1891 when Selby left Cutty Sark. "Captain Woodget's photos, notably the one in Sydney Harbour, a detail of which is below, show the way in which the fore and mid house panels and a horizontal stripe of the Liverpool cabin were painted white, that the heads were all white, that the entrance to the officers' cabins was all varnished, and that the wood masts, wood bowsprit, deadeyes, blocks and shroud fairleads were black. " John Sankey This is what I am representing in my build.

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