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bcochran

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Everything posted by bcochran

  1. bcochran
    I got my bullseyes in the mail today from model expo. Now I will have to begin to rig the bow sprit and jib boom.
  2. bcochran
    I know it was the HMS Rose. I visit it often in San Diego. The bell still says ROSE on it. The San Diego Maritime Museum calls it the Surprise. It was closed for a while until the new deck was finished. I wouldn't need the model to be called Surprise. I like that era and size of man-o-war over the ships of the line and large frigates. There isn't a plastic model of one. Lord Thomas Cochrane was the real Master and Commander. He might be my relative. My ancestors came from just west of Paisley, Scotland. Our motto is "Success Trough Endeavor". That is what I need to complete my Cutty Sark.
  3. bcochran
    I'm making eyelets for the chain slings on the lower masts and yards. I will have one eyelet for the mast and one for the yard. I will then connect them with a piece of chain, then fix them to the yard and mast.
  4. bcochran
    I think the tooling for the Cutty Sark was made by hand.
  5. bcochran
    I have been playing with model trains since the 1950s. Back then, you made your equipment. You bought wheels and couplers, but everything else was scratch built, even engines. Then came crude kits and later more accurate ones. Today everything is highly detailed and comes from China and is called ready to roll. As soon as a new train car or engine comes out, the "experts" on the model train forums have listed all its inaccuracies. They couldn't begin to imagine the junk we loved to run in the 50s and 60s.
  6. bcochran
    My wish would be that they make a model of a 28 gun ship like the Surprise from Master and Commander in say 1/48 scale. The Constitution has too many guns, as does the Victory, though I hope to work on both before I meet Davie Jones. The actual Surprise is pretty realistic, except for below decks. The gun deck has a middle isle that is lower than the level that the guns sit on, so you can stand up and walk through. I've visited it many times in San Diego and wanted a model of it. I know there is a wooden kit made, but I doubt my ability to build it well. I may try, though.
  7. bcochran
    For futtock shrouds I was thinking of putting an eyelet in the band around the mast where the lower yard attaches. Underhill calls it the futtock or futter band. Or put it a bit lower as in Campbell's plan. Underhill is generic and Campbell is the Cutty Sark. Using the wire that straps the deadeye as the futtock shroud and putting its end in the eyelet. One eyelet for all three shrouds. I think it would be too much to try and represent the shackles. Here are some illustrations from Underhill's book, Campbell and the model's main mast
  8. bcochran
    Here is an email I got from Radimir at His Model. I told him that we appreciate what he does. Thank you, for yours valuation. I've been a wheelchair-bound paraplegic for 20 years. And now I can only do the bare minimum of things on my own. I was been building models of historic sailboats since I was a kid, and I was been sailing for 25 years. Inventing and making and selling model merchandise for historic sailboats is what gives me purpose in life. I wish you a beautiful model. Radimir
  9. bcochran
    Working with resin can be unhealthy if you are not careful. Sanding or sawing resin can make tiny particles that can get in your lungs. It is always a good thing to were a mask when making resin dust.
  10. bcochran
    If I am not mistaken, I think the Portuguese painted her.
  11. bcochran
    Main mast complete and temporarily stepped and Nanny the witch.
  12. bcochran
    I put the download link on my post here it is again: https://www.hismodel.com/_filemanager/download.php?Id=110
  13. bcochran
    About Campbell deadeye placement, if you look at the rigging plan, look at the main mast lower deadeyes. Below the ship outline he has 11 deadeyes and a place for a cap stay. There are 6 large deadeyes and 5 small deadeyes. Now if you look at the rigging plan for the main shrouds and stays he has 5 large dead eyes and 7 small dead eyes just as Revell has, plus what I think is the cap stay.
  14. bcochran
    Below is the download link to HisModel zip file of Cutty Sark plans. You can use your mouse to enlarge and read. They are free and very clear to read. They are Campbells plans. Each page is a type of running rigging or standing rigging. He has done the work for you of separating the type of rigging from Campbell's plan. HisModel has color coded the blocks and deadeyes which refer to the size of the block or dead eye and the size of rope used. Here is the download link: https://www.hismodel.com/_filemanager/download.php?Id=110
  15. bcochran
    By the time we are done, we will have a whole list of Revell's Cutty Sark's inaccuracies. The downside of it is that I know of them. Since I am not going to change the kit that much, I'll have to live with them. It would be neat if some company would learn from us and remake the kit without all of them. (Kevin, you could make a set of 3D printed corrections and sell them on Shapeways.) The one that bugs me the most is the shallowness of the bullwarks. Having watched all the YouTube Cutty Sark videos, it is so evident when looking at the deck houses from outside the ship at that level. Revell's deck houses stick up too high. I also have looked at many Cutty Sark wood models (not scratch built ones) and they almost all look worse than Revell's. In an ad for Billing Boats' Cutty Sark, it says about the kit's fittings, "most are in perfect scale", meaning some aren't. In the next life, if I become an expert scratch builder ...............
  16. bcochran
    I haven't used gel CA yet. I am going to Michael's or Hobby Lobby tomorrow to find some. If none there, I will look online. Since I have several sets of the etchings minus the stern decorations, I have lots to practice with.
  17. bcochran
    The setting sun was making shadows on my ship that I thought were interesting.
  18. bcochran
    I will be real happy if I complete my model with rigging and get it on a shelf somewhere under a protective enclosure. I never intended it to look like anything other than a plastic model. Any more work than I am putting in, and I would give up at some point down the road. I understand rigging is tedious and monotonous at times, but I look forward to learning how a sailing ship's gear worked. So rigging will be a learning experience for me. All my life, I kept busy learning new things. It's good brain exercise.
  19. bcochran
    Yes, I glued the fife rails. I remember you saying how hard it is to rig around them, but I didn't pay attention.
  20. bcochran
    The glue is white until it dries, then it is semi transparent or a milky gray like in my pictures. If it gets on the waterway, it is almost invisible.
  21. bcochran
    starboard
  22. bcochran
    There is something I didn't mention that I did with this model. There are several places where the deck and waterways do not meet, and a gap is left, mostly at the point of the forecastle deck, and the stern around the rear and sides of the poop deck. A few places of the main deck near the bow also needed filling. I filled the gaps with a bead of Elmer's white glue applied with a tooth pick. The result is the gap is filled, but isn't very noticeable. It does not draw your eye's attention like an open gap does. In the pictures, you can see the dark grayish dried glue which filled in the gaps. Sometimes a few applications were needed. On my USS Constitution model, I filled the gaps with strips of styrene and sanded them even with the waterways and deck. With the Cutty Sark I did not want to sand any of the wood deck overlay.
  23. bcochran
    I have assembled all the ship's plastic parts except for anchors and trail boards, masts and spars. I am waiting for the bullseyes I ordered to rig the bow sprit and jib boom. When done, I'll add the anchor and trail board. Hismodel has sent me a replacement set of photo etch decorations. I need to add them to the trail boards, starboard side of the wheelhouse and the stern. I have no confidence in my ability to work with the etchings today. Maybe I'll have it soon. I'll work on the trail boards first, using Hismodel's methodology and the advice you all gave me here. So today I will begin assembling the masts and tops. I need to get a small vice to hold them in while working on them. I will use Bruma's log for ideas on building masts. Thanks Bruma. I'll never have your abilities, but I'll do what I can.
  24. bcochran
    I am pretty pleased with my build so far. There are places where things got a bit messed up, but they aren't too noticeable. I just keep adding more parts as it takes shape. I ordered some bullseyes this morning, so rigging the bowsprit is on hold until they arrive. I got lucky and bought a copy of Longridge's book with the pocket in the back holding the large folded plans.
  25. bcochran
    I think the Revell bumkins are very fragile. The instructions say to use thread to represent the chain that the real ship has attached to the bumkins. I could have used chain, but that would not have strengthened the piece. I used music wire, painted black, which is stiff, to make the bumkins more rigid and to represent the chain. It also will handle the tension of the running rigging attached to them.

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