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bcochran

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Everything posted by bcochran

  1. bcochran
    I replied on your log, but here it is again. This is from Hackney's book on the Airfix Cutty Sark , tpi = turns per inch. We would need to convert that size to 1/96. Airfix kit is 1:168 14 ft to an inch.
  2. bcochran
    Kevin, This is from Hackney's book on the Airfix Cutty Sark , tpi = turns per inch. We would need to convert that size to 1/96. Airfix kit is 1:168 14 ft to an inch.
  3. bcochran
    I will research that. I have the answer somewhere in my books. Give me a bit of time. I also bought the Amati ropes from Hismodel. I haven't got them yet. I have somewhere the rope sizes for the Cutty Sark, and we need to convert that to the Amati threads.
  4. bcochran
    I was wondering if the Revell sail plan was before or after the masts and yards were cut down. Here is what it says in "Log of the Cutty Sark", "Thus it came about that in March 1880, 9 feet 6 ins were cut off her lower masts, 7 feet off her lower yards, and her upper yards were shortened in proportion, whilst her skysail yard disappeared altogether." The Revell sail plan has a skysail yard, so I think it represents the ship before March 1880, before the cut down. That would mean another inaccuracy for my model because I think the white panels on the deck houses and poop cabin sides were there in the late 1880's after the cut down. I am not sure when they were painted, but the reason was to reduce the labor needed to keep all the teak varnished and reduce the crew size. The cut down was because the tea clipper days were over due to steam ships getting the tea cargos. The steam ships went through the Suez Canal cutting the number of days for the return trip by half of that of the clippers going around Africa. Thus, there being a lower profit and need to cut labor costs as a wool clipper and a reduction in sail area. The crew size was cut from 30 sum to 28 in 1880. I don't feel like changing the Revell sail plan, so I will live with the inaccuracy.
  5. bcochran
    I copied that image online to show stacked boats
  6. bcochran
    Here is where we stand today in the kitchen, almost a week off after having screwed up the stern etching again. I hope to get going again today. Not too much left on the main ship body. Need to start the masts and spars and begin rigging. I was really not into it after the etching boo boo, Hismodel is sending a free replacement. I spent a lot of time reading "The Log of the Cutty Sark" to keep my interest up. Playing around with the edit function on my i-phone gives the picture a more dramatic effect.
  7. bcochran
    Here is a free pdf download. https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=A6841197E6064168&id=a6841197e6064168!80203&parId=a6841197e6064168!80201&o=OneUp I need to get back to the Cutty Sark it's been days
  8. bcochran
    AOS book? Something about the Airfix kit does not look right to me. The deck at the bow is below the top of the bow bulwark where Revell has it even. J Tilly at Fine Scale Modeler said, "Airfix made some excellent sailing ship kits (the Wasa is one of my favorites), but the Bounty isn't one of them. The designers apparently ignored virtually all of the excellent available source material about this ship, and introduced some mistakes that are downright silly. "
  9. bcochran
    Just for fun, a Revell HMAV Bounty I have been working on for years. Last time I was putting on standing rigging. I want to build the Airfix 1/87 Bounty.
  10. bcochran
    That is my plan also. I have seen some ship pictures and plans where one boat is placed on top of another. The Bounty pictures and plans sometimes show a cutter above the lifeboat. I would think a fourth boat on the Cutty Sark may be a cutter and be place upside down on a lifeboat, or right side up. Though I don't think it would be on a boat hanging from davits. Possibly placed on the boat on the forward deck house, both boats right side up, the cutter being the smaller. Here is a picture of a cutter.
  11. bcochran
    I might use the kit figures on the deck and rigging. I don't know about the 4th boat. Longridge talks about two lifeboats over the aft deck house. Woodget had a boat he would use when he photographed the Cutty Sark. It had a sail, I think. I don't remember where I read about it.
  12. bcochran
    Thank you for that description. I will follow it. I am going to try it out on the name etching that goes on the bow first. That is the one where you paint the bits holding the letters black.
  13. bcochran
    As per my Constitution, I broke the bow point off it, so I need to start over. I want to use the Hismodel deck on it. I won't detail the gun deck because you can't see it. Only the part you can see. In model planes and ships, modeler's go to great lengths to detail some places that will never be seen once the hull or fuselage is buttoned up. At least they know it is there. Anyone who wants to understand the last voyage of the USS Constitution in 1815 should get the book "The USS Constitution's Finest Fight, 1815" Edited by Tyrone G Martin. It is the actual journal of Acting Chaplain Assheton Humphreys, US Navy, while on that voyage. He titled it "Recapitulatory Journal" of Assheton Y. Humphreys, Acting Chaplain, USS Constitution 17 December 1814 - 26 March 1815. You can't get better descriptions than first-hand knowledge. I haven't read it in a while, but I seem to remember that the Constitution was disguised as a British frigate. Her stripe along the gun ports was yellow, as were her masts. Also, she did not have covers over her gun ports so that it was wet much of the time on board since the crew's hammocks were below the gun deck, and it leaked. I am slowly getting back to my Cutty Saark after some days off. I need to finish the port bulwark and pin rails, add the boats and bowsprit then begin rigging. I am still worried about reeving the deadeyes. They look too small and close to the bulwark to work with. I know one modeler rove them off the ship by holding them in clamps. I might do that.
  14. bcochran
    Radimir at HISmodel is sending me a free replacement set of etchings. I don't understand his directions. I guess you could also use scotch tape to apply them. Stick it to the front side of the etching when you cut them off the set, but you would have to be careful not to get glue on the tape. Most likely the tape would be too tacky. He says that here is the url for instructions: http://www.hismodel.com/ornaments On the stern ornament the badge that says "Where there is a Willis a way" is very fragile and beds easily and breaks off, as are the two arrow shaped parts pointing down and the lower part of the curl on the ends. If you have bumble fingers like me, you'll break them off. You need to handle them with tweezers or something. I think putting them on the transfer paper before cutting them out then trimming around the paper then put on the glue would prevent this.
  15. bcochran
    Here is Hismodel's directions to apply the etchings: We recommend using gel second adhesive for gluing. You can find a detailed procedure for gluing the ornaments in our workflow here: https://www.hismodel.com/ornaments Description of use is here, too: First Clean ornament with an alcohol cleaner and spray it by gold paint. Pay attention to spray a very fine layer. Then paint relevant spots by blue color and by mat black color paint fine sticks, which holds a letters of name of ship. Then cut ornament from a plate by scalpel. Try placing of these parts on relevant place on model. Unstick transfer foil from paper which you have in plastic bag. Put ornament on paper from transfer foil and spread gel superglue on the back of side of ornament. Then put ornament on sticky side of the transfer foil for easier manipulation. Finally with a help of transfer foil to glue ornament on its place.
  16. bcochran
    Well, I failed for the third time to put the photo etch on the stern. I don't know what to glue it with. It is too fragile for me to handle. Several parts of it can bend and break off by handling it. I'd much rather put on the decals if I had a good set, but since the model is so old either the decals are useless or not available. I have reached a frustration point where I should give it a rest. What do the wood kits use for the stern decoratons?
  17. bcochran
    Yes you mix two types
  18. bcochran
    Here is a pic of my bow etching held on with 5 minute epoxy.
  19. bcochran
    See my reply to Kevin
  20. bcochran
    I used Microscale decals. I cut perpendicular across the sheet to get a bunch of them. I touch the corners of each one with a tiny bit of the background color to make them look rounded on the ends. At a distance, they look rounded.
  21. bcochran
    I am not sure who that is addressed to. I am using the photo etch set sold by HisModel.
  22. bcochran
    Pledge is not acting like glue does. I think it can only hold very light things, like the Cutty Sark lettering on the wheelhouse. As it dries, it solidifies around the lettering, thus holding it. I used 5 minute epoxy to hold the etched scrolling on the bow. I laid the ship on it's side and coated the back of the etching with epoxy and put it in place on the bow. I think it was important that I bent the etching first so that it laid flat on the ship. I've failed with the stern etching twice. I tried the 5-minute epoxy there, but it is slippery, I destroyed the etching by trying to keep it in place. I think next time I will superglue the center badge part in place to hold it then work my way down the length with superglue behind the large shapes. I think I will have to curve it first to the shape of the hull.
  23. bcochran
    I probably will not finish them. I am coming close to the end of my time to model.
  24. bcochran
    The white cabin and deck house panels were there during Cutty Sark's wool ship days. I am pretty sure the panels were varnished teak during her tea clipper days and today. I don't know whose idea it was to paint them, but the reason, I understand, was to cut down on the labor it took to varnish all the teak. It is the same reason the masts were shortened, the spars were shortened, and the stunt sail booms were taken off. So it depends on what period you want to model, since the Cutty Sark's appearance changed over its life. I am trying to model her during the late 1880's when she set most of her speed records. Also, during that time all the spars, wood masts and bowsprit were painted black. So that's how I will model her, no stunt sail booms and black spars, wood masts and bowsprit boom. I am no expert on the Cutty Sark so what I am saying I got from other people online and from pictures taken in the 1880's. I don't know if Revell's masts and spars represent the cut down versions or not. I guess you could measure them if you can convert 1/96 measurements to feet and inches.
  25. bcochran
    I put the HisModel brass "cutty Sark" on the wheelhouse. It's held on with Pledge Floor Care liquid. It is basically a clear, thick acrylic liquid that is tacky until it dries. After it dried, I painted another coat of Pledge over it. I am not sure how permanent it will be, but I won't be touching it. I learned to use acrylic liquid, putting clear lenses on model cars and canopies on model planes.

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