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bcochran

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Everything posted by bcochran

  1. bcochran
    I lashed the boats down. Probably not prototypical, but it's what I came up with. I looked around and didn't find any ideas, so I made my own. Lubbers who see my model will think I know what I am doing. I am not going to make boat covers, though they were on the real ship. I have not seen any really convincing way to make them that I'd be comfortable with.
  2. bcochran
    My next work will be to rig the bowsprit and jib-boom. I have several references that I am going to try to read and compare. It is important to know what piece of rig you are working with, thus it is important to know their names. I show two sets of Revell instructions. The yellowed one is the oldest copyright in 1964 Venice, CA. The other is from 1987. The older one has the names, the newer one does not, but it gives the order to follow when rigging. I show the others I have. I find Revell easier to follow, but it has no dialog. Underhill and Hackney both have dialog. Hackney is written as instructions to follow. Underhill is more technical, which you have to apply to your model using your understanding of the text. Underhill's figure 8 is almost the same as Revell's plan. So my plan is to compare each. I will most likely follow Revell and Underhill. I completed the bob stay without bullseyes as Underhill shows. I think I'll do it over when my bullseyes arrive. I've had quite a few do overs since I started. I'm sure to have many more.
  3. bcochran
    The boats, boat boom, bowsprit, jib boom, spare spars and all eyelets are complete. I need to start rigging the bowsprit. I ordered 3.5 and 2.5 bullseyes from Model Expo, so I'll wait on those to rig bowsprit.
  4. bcochran
    I don't want to move the boat skids. So I think I will look for a picture of the actual boats and lashings.
  5. bcochran
    Does anyone understand Hackney's description of how to tie down the boats? I have an extra boat and want to do this modification on my ship. I understand the drilling of holes in the boat skids, but weaving the ropes makes no sense to me. Airfix shows the booms parallel to the ship sides and Revell has the booms athwart the ship. Airfix also has boat masts which look like walkways to me. See Airfix instructions attached.
  6. bcochran
    I read there was a change in size somewhere. The problem is I have read many references, I don't know which one has it.
  7. bcochran
    Shipman, This is for you from Campbell's plans.
  8. bcochran
    I have been reading Underhill's book in preparation to work on rigging.
  9. bcochran
    I remember there being disagreement on whether there were or were not two deck houses originally. I'll have to look up my source. IIRC the plans called for one, but two were built in what I read. I'll get the source for us. On Campbell's plans near the forecastle, he has "The original design was for 22 men as shown but with no after deck house. The latter existed in 1871, if not when launched, and it is likely that the forecastle accommodation was only partly used with spare bunks." The aft deck house was where the apprentices bunked along with the bosun, cook, sailmaker and carpenter. If it wasn't there, then they would have to bunk with the ABs in the forecastle I would imagine. The fore deck house had the galley and bunks for 12 seamen. I added my picture, so you can see how much I resemble the chap on the ship. That is Santa Barbara harbor behind me.
  10. bcochran
    Kevin, You are very welcome to watch my build, but keep in mind I am a rank amateur when it comes to rigging. The thing I most worry about is breaking a mast or spar or jib-boom. At my age, my manual dexterity has diminished. You should see my hand shake when I try to touch up some tiny paint flaw. I like the looks of rigging, that gives me inspiration to go at it. I think I am going to use Revell's blocks painted black. I don't feel like stropping all those wooden blocks. In my mind's eye I can see my ship finished, but from this point in time it looks a long way off and a lot of trying times ahead. I hope I finish. One question I have for anyone who knows, how were the stays attached to the masts. Revell says to tie them at certain places. I doubt in reality they were tied to a mast. Also, I am going to do a harbor rig, so I think I should remove the rings round the mast where spars locate for a sail rig. The other thing that bugs me and I will have to live with it is that Revell's masts and spars represent the ship before they were cut down and Revell has a skysail where the cut down version did not. Also, the stun sail booms were gone during the wool voyages. My model, to me, represents a period after the cut down. I don't want to take the trouble to cut down the plastic masts and yards, and I don't want to make new ones. I feel I would not be accurate enough, even though we both agree the deck is too high and are living with that. I am going to use Revell's mast and yards as they are. Maybe old White Hat had painted deck house panels before he cut down the masts. If I finish and have the model sitting on a shelf under glass and my friends look at it, not a single one of them would be able to point to a discrepancy. It matters to me though to some extent. I have to balance accuracy to the work involved to correct, skills available, willingness to work at it and the odds that I'll do a good job. After hours and days and weeks into it I don't want to make a major screw up.
  11. bcochran
    Hi Bruma, I want to thank you for all the inspiration I get from your build. Mine is a cut below what you are doing, but I also don't have your skill and patience either. Seems you, Kevin and I are having fun together, and I want to make sure I drop in on both of yours and Kevin's logs. I would not be where I am without you.
  12. bcochran
    Levity is good medicine.
  13. bcochran
    The anchor chain when being taken in or out rode on the hawser reel and the windlass (using Revell terms) which would raise it above the hatch. Still any slack would drag on the hatch I would think. In all the pictures I have seen of Cutty Sark models, I think I could pick out any number of discrepancies. The wood models from kits (which seem to me to have a special reverence) are the worst.
  14. bcochran
    Revell calls them bulleyes. Who is who in the picture?
  15. bcochran
    The deck today. I hope to finish up the rest of the plastic parts this weekend and start rigging next week.
  16. bcochran
    What do you think we should use for bulleyes? I was thinking about using Revell's by drilling them out and replace the plastic rope with real.
  17. bcochran
    When you start your Cutty Sark we'll have another log going!
  18. bcochran
    The white panel on the aft cabin is covered by the ladder, and in the center is an open door. I did not know if the door had white panels or not. I think I remember reading that it didn't. Also, on the stern side the door is hinged and on the bow side it slides open. In the picture, it looks like the door has white panels also. I think I will add that touch. In the picture it looks like the door opens to starboard while Revell has it open to port.
  19. bcochran
    Well, the bulwarks are done. This is a milestone for me since I have been putting off completing them. I have the boats to add, and a few small parts, then comes the masts and yards. For me, rigging is new. Even without studying ships, I knew about deck fittings and such, so building that part of a ship was not a very hard mental process. But I know virtually nothing about rigging. I am studying it, though. My plan is to read the reference books I have and compare what I learn with Revell's directions. I feel I don't want to go ahead with anything until I thoroughly understand why I should be doing it a certain way. I am sure to learn from Burma, Kevin, Rob, Shipman and anyone else who feels like helping out. I really appreciate all of you.
  20. bcochran
    Thank you Bruma nice to see you here. I have been following your build, and you have given me very much help and inspiration. As you are probably very aware, the Revell Cutty Sark has a lot of inaccuracies. The one I noticed recently while watching YouTube videos of the real ship is that the bulwarks on the model are very shallow. In the videos, the deck house roofs are just visible above the bulwarks, looking at the ship from the side. Knowing that, when I look at the model, the deck houses look way out of proportion to the kit's bulwarks. Accepting that and all the other inaccuracies, I can find, you might say I am using Revell as my ship's plan. Kevin has pointed out that Campbell's plan can be critiqued also. If you look at his forecastle, how would you get from the main deck to the forecastle? He has no steps there. He has pin rails where Revell and the actual ship have steps. Even Longridge points out where he has taken liberties with his model due to the difficulty of making certain parts. His deck house panels are one example. Knowing all that, I am comfortable living with my model's inaccuracies. I could make a pretty long list of them.
  21. bcochran
    Here is how I drilled the rails for the deadeye placement. I marked the rail using the kit deadeyes where to drill. Using the blue tape to keep the holes in alignment, I drilled with a .pin vice.
  22. bcochran
    Thank you Rob means a lot
  23. bcochran
    Finally getting the port pin rails attached. The boats and a few more items and the ship without rigging will be complete.
  24. bcochran
    The lower deadeyes on the Cutty Sark pin rails are against the bulwark if placed correctly. That makes them very hard to work with. Also, the 2.5 mm ones look almost impossible to work with to me. I haven't worked with real deadeyes before, and I know others have, so I have that to look forward to.
  25. bcochran
    Water in the fire buckets

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