marktiedens

Thanks Karl. It`s not difficult,just time consuming & a little hard on the old eyes. By the time I put a finish on the wood the nails may be even less noticeable,so it might just be a waste of time.
 
/Mark

Hello everyone
Here`s where i`m at - continued planking up to the position of the uppermost whale. I decided to do some nailing on the hull planks.There seems to be no pattern to the nailing on the real ship so I followed no pattern to my nailing.The nails I am using are actually model railroad items called micro spikes.They are really small - used a #77 drill bit to drill the holes. I didn`t want it to look like it had the measles so I used the smallest "nails" I could find. It may be overkill as they are hard to see at more than about a foot away.
 

 

 

 
/Mark

A little update - decided to start the second planking. I chose not to use the supplied mahogany planking below the lower whales. I had some leftover walnut from another kit & decided to use it.the planking on the real ship is varied with all kinds of different length & width planks with lots of scarph joints so I thought I would show some of them - not all - there`s just too many.The planking at the bow is especially odd with lots of odd shaped short planks.
 

 

 

 
As odd as the bow planking is there are only 2 stealers at the stern!
 
/Mark

Cheers pops!
 
I tried to take dark background images earlier. I don't get why the LED lights look so weird in the image. IRL it is quite dim and have a grey/greenish tone, as the windows are tinted. The camera pick the light up as bright and almost blue.
 

 

 
Now it's back to shaping deadeyes and the metal parts for them so I can continue with the foremast.
 
 
Thanks for the likes everyone!
 
 
Matti

Hello everyone
Here`s where i`m at - continued planking up to the position of the uppermost whale. I decided to do some nailing on the hull planks.There seems to be no pattern to the nailing on the real ship so I followed no pattern to my nailing.The nails I am using are actually model railroad items called micro spikes.They are really small - used a #77 drill bit to drill the holes. I didn`t want it to look like it had the measles so I used the smallest "nails" I could find. It may be overkill as they are hard to see at more than about a foot away.
 

 

 

 
/Mark

Sounds like a good plan. You may want to make sure your belaying pins are installed as close to the inside part of the railings as possible. I had some issues with the pins too close to the upper handrails & couldn`t get the rigging ropes around the pins - had to pull some out & re-position them. Then I had some extra holes in the lower railings which are not noticeable now with all the rigging in place.

Frank -
I haven`t got that far on mine yet but I would definitely drill the holes for the railing posts before rigging. I don`t see any way you could drill them properly with the shrouds in the way. On my Sergal build I installed the railings before any rigging but at 1/60 scale they are a bit stronger. i  was careful working around them & managed to not break any . I just thought it would be too fiddly to try and fit the railings to the posts with the shrouds in the way. Just my thoughts.
 
/Mark

Hola amigos:
 
Well, now I'm in the process of making the sails. First I had to learn how to use sewing machine from my wife, as well as learning to sew by hand to place the bolt rope that go around the sails.  
 
The BB kit has all the sails printed in one sheet of fabric, so the first step was to cut the different pieces, then to sew the hem around the borders and sew several lines along the sails to simulate the the different pieces that form it.  At last I sew the bolt ropes that go around the sails.
 
I must to point out that to make the bolt lines it was necessary to search for a suitable thread in fabric stores: size (1.2 - 1.5 mm diameter), material (cotton or polyester) and color (beige or light brown), not an easy task.   Finally I only find a white nylon thread with the correct size.  After doing several tries I accomplished an acceptable finish using a mix of white glue, water and the same acrylic paint I used to paint the plastic figures in the ship. In the pictures you can see some sails with the bolt ropes already sewn and some without them.
 

 
Saludos, Karl
 
PD: Thanks for all the likes
 
 

Frank -
I haven`t got that far on mine yet but I would definitely drill the holes for the railing posts before rigging. I don`t see any way you could drill them properly with the shrouds in the way. On my Sergal build I installed the railings before any rigging but at 1/60 scale they are a bit stronger. i  was careful working around them & managed to not break any . I just thought it would be too fiddly to try and fit the railings to the posts with the shrouds in the way. Just my thoughts.
 
/Mark

The first cut at the cherubs installed, plus the medieval knights.  I had to be careful and measure the knights before I built out the quarter gallery framing, and they still didn't fit perfectly because one side of the planking above their heads was ever so slightly lower.  Luckily the planking was flexible.
 

 
Once I looked at the installed figures for a while, I found various things I didn't like, so I added a bunch of detail and changed a few things.  The cherubs have more highlighting and accents in the crevices to bring out detail.  The knights have some added highlighting on their capes as well.
 
I'm still not happy with the Gideons above the knights.  They are the same sculptures as the small-size Roman emperors on the beak, and look totally different from what's on the ship.  I think I'm going to remove them, add more detail, and then replace a few of them with sculptures from the upper quarter gallery, which have the correct musical instruments.  We'll see how that turns out.
 

 
The kit models the knights differently from the actual ship, particularly on their heads.  The ship sculptures have feathered caps, and the kit sculptures have turbans.  This is a recurring theme on other sculptures too - seems like the kit sculptor had a thing for turbans.  So trying to emulate feathers on turbans was a little interesting, but the result isn't too bad.
 

 
Next up, some photos of the large transom sculpture...
 
 

Hey all! Small update. I added the clamps holding the bowsprit ropes. I blended them to match the other wood, so they aren't very obvious. I also made the mainstay collar, trying to get it like the real one at the museum. Paintwise its washes and trying to get everything to blend and look balanced. I'm glad I repainted the lower area of the beakhead.
 
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
/Matti
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Build log part 64
 
 
making the main Yard.....
 
 
the plans calls for a 6 mm dowel but I find that too flimsy, so I Chose a 8 mm dowel, put on an octogonal middle section with 7,2 mm flat widths and tapered the Ends down to 3 mm.
This is the second Trial but I think it works out OK now and I shall do both (raw) lower Yards in this way
 
Nils
 
 
 

I made the 2 pulleys, that sit above the mizzen mast channels, out of walnut. I made the sheaves out of a dowel of wood and grooved the outside diameter.

 
Pulley with sheaves pinned in place


 
Fitted on Port Side

 
Fitted on Starboard side

 
Drilled hole on both side, where the rigging from the pulleys will enter the ship side

 
Pulley and hole

 
So, after viewing Michael's (md1400cs) fine log and the discussions about removing the pin rails, (which apparently don't belong), I now have to figure out a way to remove them without damaging the ship or the cannon! Yikes, Will not be fun!

 
Thanks,
Frank
 

Edwin - the red paint is from a line called Citadel, by Games Workshop.  This specific color is called "Mephiston Red" (lots of odd fantasy role playing-inspired paint names in this line).  It's a good paint line - matte acrylic, very finely ground, evenly dispersed pigment, dries quickly, mixes well, etc.  Your local gaming/hobby shop should have it, or you can order online from www.games-workshop.com.
 
Some more photos of the finished beak area...
 

 
The economy class toilets...
 

 
And a less blurry photo of the side panel, with the notches cut out for the Roman emperor sculptures.
 

 

Hey again!
 
I've mounted the bowsprit and finished the ropes holding it.
 

 

 

 
It was lots of work as I had to reshape thin down the L shaped timbers holding the bow. Looking back I think it was good to wait with drilling the rope holes until knowing where to put them. That gave me liberty to arrange the beek head "floor planks" the way I wanted and then arrange the rope holes acccording to them, not the other way around. That said, I would have thinned down the L shaped parts slightly pre assembly to make it easier to get room for the holes, and this is a tip for builders of the kit. This way made me nervous about destroying anything...
 
I never was happy with the paint job on the lower beakhead parts, and this gave me an opportunity to make it better.
 
 
/Matti
 
 
 
Edit: I just realized that I didn't explain that the kit construction is with the ropes running "outside" the lower beakhead construction (wrong). Remember that I broke the beakhead earlier and strengthened it when repairing it. This made my beakhead stronger and that's good when doing this mod to the build.

Hi Mates,
 
Thanks so much for your supportive suggestions, comments, likes and just looking in, all are very much appreciated.
 
Continuing with the braces for the anchors; I focused on the single fish davit beam that was employed to help raise the anchor flutes towards the gunwales.  Only one beam was recovered indicative of the single beam being moved port to starboard as needed.
 
------------------
 
I used a sanding disk to thin out a piece of wood. Then tapered both upper edges, added grooves on its outer tip and inner ends as well.
 
Added the required ropes and blocks.
 
Drilled four holes in the weather deck to simulate the two rope attaching laces.
 
Knotted two pieces of rope together using a Carrick bend.  This knot was a guess (I’m good at that J)
 
Glued the two ropes and also added glue to the knot ends to simulate a natural relaxed looking resting appearance on the deck
 
The last three pics are for my next area, still repairing previous mistakes, and will be giving my Proxxon milling machine its first real user test for adding the grooves  into the knightheads - Hmmmm Let’s see how that goes.
 
---------------------------
 
YES I am sooo irritated at myself for not recessing the gun deck cannon framings. I had thought of it as I was inserting the four bits per opening but the lip seemed too thin AND my skills then were not as good as they are now.. Now its really too late for a retro fix.    Next time….
 
Always my regards,
 
Michael

you must reconsider Denis........your build is much more worthy than you realize!  all those in favor......hit the like button 

Martin,
 
thats right, and ist only the Standing rigging in the Moment, I`m working with pegs and tweezers, guess I know what I`ll be facing when the running rigging Comes on, let alone the sails....
 
here is a Little update on the status
 
Nils
 
 
Build log part 63
 
 
 
 

A little update - decided to start the second planking. I chose not to use the supplied mahogany planking below the lower whales. I had some leftover walnut from another kit & decided to use it.the planking on the real ship is varied with all kinds of different length & width planks with lots of scarph joints so I thought I would show some of them - not all - there`s just too many.The planking at the bow is especially odd with lots of odd shaped short planks.
 

 

 

 
As odd as the bow planking is there are only 2 stealers at the stern!
 
/Mark

A little update - decided to start the second planking. I chose not to use the supplied mahogany planking below the lower whales. I had some leftover walnut from another kit & decided to use it.the planking on the real ship is varied with all kinds of different length & width planks with lots of scarph joints so I thought I would show some of them - not all - there`s just too many.The planking at the bow is especially odd with lots of odd shaped short planks.
 

 

 

 
As odd as the bow planking is there are only 2 stealers at the stern!
 
/Mark

A little update - decided to start the second planking. I chose not to use the supplied mahogany planking below the lower whales. I had some leftover walnut from another kit & decided to use it.the planking on the real ship is varied with all kinds of different length & width planks with lots of scarph joints so I thought I would show some of them - not all - there`s just too many.The planking at the bow is especially odd with lots of odd shaped short planks.
 

 

 

 
As odd as the bow planking is there are only 2 stealers at the stern!
 
/Mark

Hi guys:
 
Finally I finished the standing rigging placing the upper stay of the mizen mast.
 
At first I was going to do it according to the BB plans (only one rope) but I change my mind and prefer making it as shown in the 1:10 Vasa model and Clayton´s, with double rope and fixing them to the main mast shroud.
 
It is important to mention that if using this form it is necessary to make additional holes to the pinracks located near the mainmast.  Do it before making the shrouds!!
 

 
Saludos, Karl

Working on the port side, trying to show the anchor in a somewhat stored position.
 
Finished rigging the bow davit to the anchor ring and added support lines to the middle and end of the anchor.

 
View of finished port side


 
Coiled ropes from the bow davits terminal end


 
Coiled line from the starboard removable davit. 

 
Now onto the large pulleys above the mizzen mast  channels!
 
Thanks,
Frank

Finishing up the anchors!
 
So, working on the starboard side, trying to show the anchor being raised.
 
During a test fit of the anchor, I noticed that the assembly would be swinging loosely when finished, so I had to think of a way to protect and secure it without being noticed.
So I drilled and pinned the backside of the stock and drilled a corresponding hole on the side of the ship.

 
Now I pressed and glued the pin and stock into the side of the ship, holding the anchor assembly firm, without being noticeable.

 
Rigged the block and anchor to the bow davit

 
Rigged the other end of the anchor to the removable davit.


 
Finished the large anchor cable

 

A little update - decided to start the second planking. I chose not to use the supplied mahogany planking below the lower whales. I had some leftover walnut from another kit & decided to use it.the planking on the real ship is varied with all kinds of different length & width planks with lots of scarph joints so I thought I would show some of them - not all - there`s just too many.The planking at the bow is especially odd with lots of odd shaped short planks.
 

 

 

 
As odd as the bow planking is there are only 2 stealers at the stern!
 
/Mark