marktiedens

Lower shrouds & stays done using Chuck`s rope - very nice rope.
 

 

 

 
/Mark

Started working on the shrouds.
 

 

 

 
/Mark

Lower shrouds & stays done using Chuck`s rope - very nice rope.
 

 

 

 
/Mark

Finally able to do some light work on my ship. Slowly working on the masts - foremast finished.Not perfect but neither is the rest of the build.Had to make new mast caps as the kit ones were ugly plywood & didn`t show the metal bands holding the upper sections to the caps.The dowels for the masts are walnut so they are probably a little darker than they should be.Got some of Chuck`s blocks - super nice.
 

 

 
Mark

Bowsprit finished & pre-rigged.Still working on the masts.
 

 
/Mark

Finally able to do some light work on my ship. Slowly working on the masts - foremast finished.Not perfect but neither is the rest of the build.Had to make new mast caps as the kit ones were ugly plywood & didn`t show the metal bands holding the upper sections to the caps.The dowels for the masts are walnut so they are probably a little darker than they should be.Got some of Chuck`s blocks - super nice.
 

 

 
Mark

Lower shrouds & stays done using Chuck`s rope - very nice rope.
 

 

 

 
/Mark

Thanks for the kind comments and likes! Keith, I'm building her as when she was in harbor. I´ve finished the gunports. I'll wait with the messageports until later on. So finally I'm done with the gunports:
 
 

 

 

 
 

Thanks man, there are many ways to paint so google and youtube model weathering and you'll find great tutorials and info, at least on plastic models.
 
I've been working on the gunports lately. The look I want is when the gunports are not strictly opened, but some are closed or halfway opened. I like the uneaven rough and everyday life look of it. Here are some pics of Batavia and Götheborg with the look I like:
 

 

 
 
 

 
 
That ment I had to plan for the cannons to be inside. I also had to plank the back of the hatches as the original BB are hollow. That was actually good as it was easy to stain the planks in the same color as the rest of the ship. The closed hatches are scratched. Here is how far I've gotten:
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
/Matti
 

I have started to fit the upper hull starting from the stern forwards.By notching back the temporary stringers,I am able to use plain pear strip overwidth,rather than trying to develop individual shapes for each of the frame sections.There is a not very clear photo showing this.Each piece was fitted with an obechi infill individually.By using the digital vernier to check running dimensions as I went along,this avoided any accumulative build up of error.The obechi was thickness sanded(using a sanding block   )to suit each location.There is variation in frame spacing due to working with the constraints of bulkhead positions,but it is so small,it unnoticable to the eye.I have set the obechi 2mm above the base of the upper trim(bottom of the ebony planking).This is to allow fine adjustment of the ends and then capping with 3mm boxwood.Doing it this way means no tool marks will be visible on the frames from shaping the ends of the obechi.This complete section has been trimmed 3mm below the cap rail so I can fit a square pear 'binding' stringer to tie everything together.I got this idea from Dr Mike and makes alot of sense to tie all these laminations together.It also provides a sanding guide for upper frame thickness.This will be pinned later into the top of some of the frames for additional strength.The length of this upper edge is overlong at present and steps down to a lower level,which will be cut back when the next section is complete.My technique just leaves a section to sand back when the temporary stringers are removed.I am considering replacing these afterwards,but bolting to the hull with M2 bolts as this area will be planked over.I am also considering using threaded rods as well to keep the upper hull the right distance apart as work progresses.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi again,
 
Once the location of deadeyes and blocks was determined, I set  the corresponding pieces in place.
 

 
Here you can see the line I use to align the chains
 

 
Saludos, Karl
 
 

Started working on the shrouds.
 

 

 

 
/Mark

Started working on the shrouds.
 

 

 

 
/Mark

Started working on the shrouds.
 

 

 

 
/Mark

Hey all! I´ve been busy the last week but I have done some work on the cannons and hatches. A lot of painting but I enjoy it and find it relaxing. Before continuing on the side ports, I did the ones at the stern.
 
 

 

 

 
/Matti

Status update....
 
drilled the 6 bulwark holes for the oars using a copied template from my plan on starboard side, am filing These square now
 

 

 
 
 
Nils

Doing the guns in repeatable mode saves some time, once the method is on track...
My work desk is quite a mess, since I have my own room and do`nt have to clean up during the day, and I still have 4 more to do.
 
Am thinking of adding small wooden splints to the axis close to the wheels, but shall do that as last Action
 
Nils
 
 

Trial #1, small wire Pins secure wheels on axis
 

Trial #2, small wooden splints hold back the wheels (I prefer this Version)
 

Gun builders desk
 

have 10 done so far, 4 more to go..

Hi everyone!
 
After finishing cannons and other deck object’s my purpose was to begin the installation of deadeyes over the chainboards. 
 
To accomplish this I realized that in first place  was necessary to display the masts in a preliminary way to determine the angle of the different shrouds. In the process I decide to shape the upper square portion of the foremast and mainmast outright.  To achieve this I used my homemade Dremel base as shown in the picture.
 

 
 
Saludos, Karl

Bowsprit finished & pre-rigged.Still working on the masts.
 

 
/Mark

I have decided to add a stern lantern since I have never seen a ship of this era without one.I robbed a lantern from an old model of a dutch ship & modified it slightly.It had some red plastic inserts to represent glass so I removed them & made new inserts out of some clear acetate I had left over from my CC Victory.The separate panes were simulated with some fiberglass screen repair material.
 

 
/Mark

I have decided to add a stern lantern since I have never seen a ship of this era without one.I robbed a lantern from an old model of a dutch ship & modified it slightly.It had some red plastic inserts to represent glass so I removed them & made new inserts out of some clear acetate I had left over from my CC Victory.The separate panes were simulated with some fiberglass screen repair material.
 

 
/Mark

Another small update.Got the rest of the gunport lids installed.Darkened the shiny brass cannons with a thinned black wash - didn`t want to blacken them as I`m pretty sure they were made of bronze.The wash seems to have given them a somewhat rustic look.
 

 

 

 
Mark

Bowsprit finished & pre-rigged.Still working on the masts.
 

 
/Mark

Bowsprit finished & pre-rigged.Still working on the masts.
 

 
/Mark

Finally able to do some light work on my ship. Slowly working on the masts - foremast finished.Not perfect but neither is the rest of the build.Had to make new mast caps as the kit ones were ugly plywood & didn`t show the metal bands holding the upper sections to the caps.The dowels for the masts are walnut so they are probably a little darker than they should be.Got some of Chuck`s blocks - super nice.
 

 

 
Mark