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cdrusn89

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Everything posted by cdrusn89

  1. Brian, I have been using the same cell phone with (as best I know) the same settings since I started this build last June. I am at a complete loss (and I fancy myself somewhat of a computer geek) to explain why the pictures uploaded one day and then not the next.
  2. SW update to iPhone did not resolve the problem. At a loss for what to try next.
  3. So that seems to indicate the issue is with my iPhone. I am updating my iPhone to the latest software version. I find it hard to believe that could be the issue but I am running out of other potential causes. This may force my hand to buy a macro lens for my Canon EOS 60D. Although even clearer sharper pictures (which already seem to exaggerate the flaws) may not be all that good a thing.
  4. I took a photo with my iPad and emailed it to myself and then tried to post it and it successfully got to the upload box. I will press submit shortly and we will see what happens.
  5. I am having trouble posting photos for some reason. When I try to upload a photo (taken with the same camera (iPhone X) in the same way as every other photo I have taken for this site I get the "There was a problem processing the uploaded file. -200" notice. I can (apparently - i.e. the file uploads normally to the preview box) photos taken before yesterday but nothing since. I am going to use a different camera and see what happens then.
  6. Having resolved to maintain the topsail yards without the batten I am proceeding to "populate" the Fore Topsail yard. I cannot find anything in the plans or instructions that would indicate a difference in arrangement/requirements from the main except that the brace blocks tend aft instead of forward so am proceeding accordingly.
  7. Forgot the Topsail Yard Halyard - three 5/32 S blocks, two in the topsail mast cross trees and one in the center of the yard. I also added the Topsail yard truss although it needs to be completed when the yard is hung on the mast. I have all the pieces there just needs to be adjusted to fit the mast. Needs to be big enough now to slide up from the bottom of the topsail mast. While adding the halyard block on the yard and the truss I decided to modify (actually I built a new one from scratch) my yard holder to provide for holding the yard in the center or on either side of center.
  8. Main Topsail Yard blocks and lines appear to be: 1/8 S - brace (P&S) on 10mm pendant - at chocks 3/32 S Top Gallant Sheet (P&S) - inboard 3/32 S Top Gallant Sheet (P&S) - at chocks seized into TopSail lift line 5/32 SB Topsail Clew (P&S) with Topsail Clew line in Becket - inboard Topsail Lift (.018) line (P&S) - seized at chocks Topsail Reef (.018) line (P&S) - knotted at sheave at yard end (not included until later) So here is the Main Topsail Yard in its resting place until needed. I have not gotten the parrel/truss figured out yet. I built the yard assuming no batten but am beginning to thing maybe I should have included it. I will work on the other yards while I reconsider that decision.
  9. Main course yard complete including the yard portion of the sling (and I made and installed the fore course yard sling too). Now on to the Topsail yards.
  10. One lesson learned (at least for the way I am doing things) from the Fore Course Yard was that it is easier to put the blocks that go inboard of the tips and the foot rope stirrups on before the jackstay is installed. Two less line to have to weave the block attachments through. I made up all the blocks that will be installed on the Main Course Yard (I can't find anything to indicate that they are different from the Fore Course) and laid them out on my holder. Here the jackstay, foot rope stirrups and the inboard blocks are installed. The stirrups have been treated with 50/50 glue and water and the clamps are holding the stirrups straight while they dry.
  11. Looks good - I did not use any buff paint. If the instructions said buff I left it "bright". I also cheated on the deck furniture and moved the companionway aft and used grating in place of the salon and Capt skylights. Do not see how you could use the capstan with those structures as shown. They probably do not use it on the replica but I am trying to get what IMHO the Niagara might have looked like when built.
  12. Completed rigging the fore course yard. Jackstay, two foot ropes and ten blocks. P/S Braces (5/32 Single) P/S Clew Garnets (1/8" Single) P/S Reef Tackle (5/32 Single) P/S Lower Yard Lifts (5/32 Single + 5/32 Clump Block) Here are two pictures of the yard in my newly modified "yard holder" (moved the clamp up and out to support having weights on the footrope stirrups to hold them in the vertiucal while the 50/50 glue/water mix sets.
  13. I am with you Dwight. 50 is really cold here in Central Florida.
  14. Main and spanker masts are now complete (except for the metal band around the boom rest - I just noticed that it is missing) including the two blocks (and running line) for the spanker gaff throat halyard (or halliard as it is spelled some places). Now on to the yards and their appendages (after I get the metal band in place).
  15. Tom, You are welcome to it. I am planning on doing that for all the yards, assuming there is enough material left at the top of the top Gallant mast to support a pin. It is pretty thin up there. Have you dug out from the big snow?
  16. With the fore top installed I looked over the plans and it appears there are five eyebolts needed on the fore top to support tackles of various configurations. I believe they are: Main Top Gallant Stay Port Side aft of mast (aom) Fore Reef Tackle Port side aom Fore Reef Tackle Stbd side aom Fore Top Gallant Yard Halyard Port side aom Main Royal Stay Tackle Stbd side aom So that is three eyebolts on the port side and two on starboard. Spacing is going to be a challenge as all have 1/8" single blocks (with becket) attached. I left them a little fair of the fighting top surface to make it easier to thread the blocks in when the time comes.
  17. More Syren rope arrived today so I started serving what will become the lower shrouds. I got two pieces a little less than two feet long each. I am still undecided about how much of the shrouds to serve. It took just under a hour to serve the two lengths and I was operating about as fast as I could spin the wheel most of the time. What seems to take time is having to stop three or four times on each piece and reposition everything. Given the hurried nature of the construction and the manpower limitations that the shipyard and Navy were operating under it is at least possible than none of the shrouds were served - just one of those things that never made it to the top of the bosun's "to do" list. There is at least one Niagara build on this site (6ohiocav) where the entire fwd shroud was served and the others just the part around the mast down to where the two individual shrouds split from the "pair". That might be a good compromise. I also got around to the getting the deadeyes stroped and installed on the fwd top and the top onto the mast. Have to add a few eyebolts and search the plans for other "goodies" that mneed to go there BEFORE things get really crowded. And yes, that is a pin to position and hold the course yard - I am not so trusting of my abilities to try and get the course yard to "hang" only by the truss and sling.
  18. Foremast cleats, chocks (except for the Main Preventer Stay chocks which go on when the stay does), Main Stay collar and Spring and Main Topmast stay collars and thimbles and the mast band and fairlead. Next come the blocks for the various lines - there are at least 10 blocks that go under the fore top (and I think about that for the main top as well). Making a spreadsheet to help keep track of everything. For those interested the the closed heart is from Syren (7mm closed) not the one in the kit, the cleats are Syren (5mm) and the thimbles are 3/32 bullseyes from Bluejackets.
  19. Added the three blocks for the head sail downhauls and the bowsprit/JB/FJB assembly is as complete as I think I can get it at this point. I used 3/32" blocks for the downhauls although the plans call for 1/16" and 5/64". Syren sells a 2mm block which is pretty close to 5/64s (1.98mm according to Google) but the difference to 3/32 is not worth the effort IMHO and 1/16" blocks are too small for my aged fingers to work with. I am going to put this away somewhere safe (I hope) and move on to completing the masts and serving the shrouds (or at least parts of the shrouds) before turning to the rest of the yards.
  20. Having looked through the thread on this site on foot ropes, and thus determined that indeed there are two foot ropes required for the jibboom/fjb and the drawing shows that they have knots (to give your foot some purchase as you get closer to the ends I assume) I had to come up with a way to put the knots in the .012" line (black Syren in this case) evenly spaced, and (hopefully) more or less the same on each foot rope. Being a fan of the brute force approach I used short pieces of .025" music wire in my yard arm jig spaced per the drawing. Then I tied a simple overhand knot in the line around each piece of wire starting in the middle of the line. I used 50/50 white glue and water on each knot and when dry used a pair of tweezers to lift the knots off the wires and then did the other half in a similar fashion. After the knots are off the wire a gentle jug on each knot will close up the gap where the wire was and produce the required knot. Here is the line with one side done and the other on the wires. Here is also how they look installed. I discovered that there are similar (not as long) foot ropes on the spanker boom so I am getting double duty out of my little row of wires.
  21. Oliver, I am not sure what you mean by "running blocks". Could you explain a little more and I will be happy to tell or show you what I can
  22. HQ had to look for something at Walmart and as we were passing the fishing tackle (on the way to fabric as I recall) I saw some tackle weights on the shelf and got the idea for some line (or anything you can hold with an alligator clip) weights. I bought some pyramid (Aztec not Egyptian) sinkers with an integrated swivel and used some existing alligator clips that I got (I think) from Micro Mart. Put the two together and you have a 4 oz weight with an alligator clip. I bent the attachment on the alligator clip to try and get the weight directly under to clip. At the moment I am using them to tension some rigging line after it has been served. I am trying to get pieces long enough to do at least the forward most lower shroud completely served.
  23. Don't forget the spanker boom rest and the mast hoops before you glue up the spanker/main mast assembly. Don't ask me how I know.
  24. Except for the foot ropes on the jibboom and FJB I have assembled and rigged the bowsprit/JB/FJB about as far as I can without the fore mast to supply the stays and the hull to provide the end points. I will put this somewhere safe and out of the dust (although that has been considerably reduced since the mast/yards were completed). I will paint the "thimble" (actually a small Britannia metal bullseye) black before this goes onboard. I think I also have to add some blocks on the JB and FJB for the head sail downhauls. Will research that tomorrow before football. By the way, does anyone know where the jibboom outhaul tackle belays? The tackle is shown in the upper right on sheet 5 below the plan view of the bowsprit but there is no mention of the belay point and the belaying pin table is also silent on the subject. No big deal, I am sure I can find somewhere up forward to secure it, just wondering.
  25. Completed work on the sprintsail yard prior to mounting on bowsprit. Considering all the "yard work" coming up I built a little jig to hold the yards securely while adding foot ropes and the various block that have a home on the yards. I added the yard lift tackle to the bowsprit as well. Hopefully I will not regret having those lift lines "hanging around" while I add the jibboom and FJB.
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