cdrusn89
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Everything posted by cdrusn89
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As for the model, I have faired the deck and railing edge together and to the hull and will get another coat of primer on shortly. I decided to mask off the deck so it will take the planking without too much paint overspray getting in the way. I have the mast on the table to open the holes for the eyebolts on the aft side and to drill the holes for the other 16 eye blots that are required. I am trying to decide whether to add the polystyrene channels to the forward side of the mast (presumably these are tracks for the "whisker pole" that is carried on deck - not sure why there are two tracks but...). before I hit it with the flat white or installed them after. The instructions indicate that the track are attached with nails (and CA), but it does not show how many or where they are located. Here is the hull waiting for some last minute Bondo to dry before a final sand and more primer.
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As I was shaping the boom I started thinking about how the main sail is attached to the boom. I am beginning to believe I need to rethink this for my version of Endeavour as this is going to be my first model with full sails. My only other experience with sail was on a gaff rigged schooner and the sails were furled between the gaff and boom on both masts. According to the instructions and drawings, there are 58 pieces of "H" shaped plastic channel placed athwart the boom (the picture only shows part of the boom) with (presumably) a hole in the center of each piece. The foot of the main sail is attached to the these 58 shapes with a split ring at each location. Given the shape of the boom (tapered fore and aft) just getting the 58 pieces on the boom evenly and with the hole centered would be a big enough challenge. I guess I am a little intimidated with the idea of trying to get 58 split rings through 58 "grommets" (or whatever I would use to put 58 holes in the mainsail foot) spaced appropriately in the mainsail. I can easily imagine disaster ensuing. The picture on the kit box does not show clearly enough for me to be certain they did it as described in the instructions. Blowing up a picture of the box picture might lead you to believe that the split rings are there but not used to attach the sail. It is possible that they used line to tie the mainsail to the 58 channels. I any event I am considering trying to implement a more "modern" system (like is used on every sail boat I have every been on) a channel on the top of the boom with a bolt rope on the mainsail foot which slides into the channel. I have ordered four different sizes of polystyrene channel and will try a prototype before I make a final decision. I should probably try and fabricate mainsail foot with a bolt rope as well. I know this is not what Endeavour had but I would rather have an inaccurate representation with sails than a more accurate one without.
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I added the "C"plank to the aft side of the mast. Instead of the "C" plank (1 X 3mm) from the kit I used 1/32 X 1/4 boxwood - it is thinner and very slightly wider. I drilled the 40mm spaced holes for the eye blots in the strips before gluing them to the back of the mast. I will have to drill the mast out under the strip to hold the "eye bolt holders" included with the kit but the holes in the strip will show where they are supposed to be. The eye bolts hold the main sail onto the mast but are not installed until the sail is. Here are a picture of the mast in the paint booth and a closeup of the added plank. I also shaped the boom. The triangular section piece provided in the kit was not as hard to shape as I had thought. It tapers in both directions (fore and aft) on all three sides from about the one third point. The full size drawing makes it relatively easy to mark what needs to be removed and I did most of the removing with the disc sander. The last few mm were done with sanding sticks. The trickier part is trying to keep things even on all three sides. Here is a shot of the boom with the forward end tapered and the aft end marked for taper and the boom in the paint booth. I also marked and drilled the holes for the eye bolts on the boom.
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So I used the above approach (soldering rings in the end of the spreaders) tom build the four sets of spreaders/guys for the mast. I drilled holes through the mast, installed the spreaders and the mast bis in the paint booth getting its first coat of primer. I counted and there are 16 more eyebolts that go on the mast. I have not decided at this point whether tom install them now and paint the white with the rest of the mast or wait until after the mast is painted and have them brass. My fear with painting them white is the paint may not stick to the brass very well. I have had to repaint eyebolts in the past where the paint came off during rigging.
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While waiting for the deck glue tp dry I looked at the mast spreaders. The kit provides copper tubing (which be warned is quite soft and easy tom bend, even if you don't mean to) for the spreaders and brass inserts and eyebolts for the spreader ends. I have some copper eyebolts that I acquired along the way somewhere so though maybe it would b e easier/better to use those in stead of the brass hardware in the kit. Because the eyebolt shaft is much smaller than the opening in the tubing I put two of them in the tubing end and soldered them in. A little filing to clean up the solder and it looks pretty good. It is small enough that it in not wider than the tubing so the spreader ends can be installed before the spreader is on the mast. In the end it probably doesn't make much difference they are all going to be painted white anyway.
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So I took the bull by the horns and since my thickness sander was still set for 1mm I sanded a 1/16 boxwood sheet 2" wide to 1mm and sanded it (disk sander for the outside, Dremel tool on slow for the inside) to fit. Since my edge planks were 1/4" wide (instead of 6mm) I went ahead and made the stern deck edge piece 1/4" wide also. Here it is with the kit provided piece.
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So with the new, shorter bow deck I got it glued on using a stub for the mast to make sure it would fit and be vertical athwart ships. While the bow and amidships sections were drying I looked at the stern with an eye to starting the deck edge installation. I got the kit supplied stern counter piece and tried to match it to the stern deck to find it is way too large. I did not change the rear decking in any way, just glued it down. Now it seems I will have to cut a small section out of the middle of the kit supplied piece or make one of my own. One wonders how this happens and why. I am the first to have experienced this? That and I noticed a piece is missing off the bow deck piece too. No big deal as there is a kit provided piece that would cover this up but I added a piece to keep everything on the same level.
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Fitting the forward deck proved to be a problem. I could not get the bow, mast hole and midships edges to line up (all at the same time). Try as I might somewhere was always off by 2mm or so. The mast has to be truly vertical (port and starboard) so I used that as "truth" and decided to cut the fore deck into two pieces and fit the separately. I will deal with the void between them along with the deck edge. I laid my 48" level down the centerline (before I glued the aft deck down) and there is a slight "wobble" just forward of the cockpit so I think that is the source of the problem. I decided against trying to "fix" that wobble beyond dealing with the fore deck issue. So I got my big chop saw and cut the fore deck piece behind the mast hole and fit it to the hull. Here is how it looks being glued up. And shots of the seam at the deck edge.
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The instructions call for the edge railing to be two pieces of 1 X 3mm planking laid side by side to create a 1 X 6mm edge completely around the deck edge. I am not a big fan of having to glue two pieces together although that would make it easier to bend the planks to fit the hull. So I went to my wood store and found 6 pieces of 1/4 X 1/16 basswood. I also have boxwood but since the deck edge is going to be painted I see little to be gained by using the more expensive wood. Since 6mm equals 0.236" the 1/4" stock should work fine. However, because the kit provides pieces for the bow and stern the difference in thickness (1/16" vs. 1mm) would be noticeable. So, having just gotten a Model machines thickness sander I used it (my first real usage so far) to thin the 1/16 to 1mm. I measured the pieces after thinning and all were 1mm plus or minus .02mm, very consistent (as expected).
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With the hull as good as it is going to get until the deck is attached I decided to proceed in the direction now. There are still areas on the hull which show imperfections but I will deal with them (or not) as I deal with the deck/hull seam and the edge railing. Stern decking fit pretty well. It is just inside the planking (less than 1mm) on the port side but I think I can deal with that when the edge railing is installed. Here is the test fit and with the glue. I used round toothpicks cut to the thickest part as guide pins drilling the holes while the deck was held by rubber bands. I added the balsa block to make sure the center was firmly pressed down. On to the more interesting and potentially more troubling bow deck.
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While waiting for paint to dry I experimented with the Beadlon wire (which is plastic covered but you have to look very, very carefully to tell) and the turnbuckles that I had in my "spare parts locker". I have others on order but they are coming from the UK via surface transit (and even that was >$6) so it will be awhile before they get here. I used the Beadalon provided "swags" to make the attachment and then trimmed some of the excess metal from the swags. Looks pretty goood IMHO.
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Thanks Keith. I decided that the stand included with the kit was not going to be as useful as might be desired for installing the deck and the items on the deck so I decided to build a simple cradle to hold the hull. Here is my first test fit.
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Another coat of primer/filler and more Bondo. At least some of the areas previously filled seem to look okay. I get two cots from one can of "Dupli-Color Automotive series 2 in 1 filler and sandable primer". Hopefully the one can I have left should be enough. If not there are auto parts stores on every corner that do not have a Walgreens, CVS or Rite Aid.
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First coat of primer and more Bondo. Hopefully I will. not have to repeat this process more than two or three more times. After hull is in satisfactory shape I will install the deck and fair them together then add the outer railing which, if I read the instructions correctly, the top and outboard side of which are the same Navy blue as the upper hull.
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So I added Bondo in places where it was obviously needed and went at it with 120 grit sandpaper. I used mostly an 8" X 2" sanding block that uses 19" long pieces of sandpaper (see picture below) as I want to bridge as many of the frames as I can so I do not distort the lines any more than I already have. I searched to company (Dowl-it) web site but they only sell 2" X 19" strips in 60 and 80 grit. I was able to buy (on Amazon of course) 42" X 2" belt sander belts in every grit up to #400. They came is a set of 12 belts (60, 80, 120, 150, 240 and 400 -, 2 each) for like $20 including tax. So I get two sanding strips from each belt and should have no problem with sanders for the rest of this build. After the 120 sanding I cleaned to surface with paint thinner and marked all the places where I needed more attention with the sander or more Bondo which I added liberally Then another round with the 120 and another cleaning. Finally I went over everywhere with 220/240 grit and cleaned it again. The hull is n ow in my makeshift paint booth ready for a first coat of spray filler and sand-able primer. I am sure this will show all sorts of flaws and defects which could not see in the wood finish. Hopefully we are down to only 220 and finer paper from here on but my experience has been that the first primer coat shows every little flaw and blemish. A confession - it appears that I did manage to sand through all the planking on the stbd side at about amidships.
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Paint booth is ready to go. I had the wooden structure sitting in the back. I built it to hold up the branches of the mango tree but a hail storm stripped most of the fruit off before they had a chance to get anywhere close to ripe. I saved it in hopes (probably vain) that the tree would bear fruit again this year.
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Keith - we have a building material over here called Hardi Plank which comes as house siding (8" wide but only 1/2" thick, maybe less) but also in dimensional lumber sizes like 2" X 4". I use it for the bases of the holders made from plastic pipe and the file store. Its principle advantage is that it weighs about three to four times what the equivalent piece of pine does. Makes the bases heavy enough to not get knocked over easily. I had some from a project we did here on the house so it was "free" in a manner of speaking. The wood store has kinda gotten out of hand. Like my girl friend and her quilting fabric, all I seem to get is more types and sizes of wood. I am thinking I should start cutting my own when I need it rather than stock piling what I think I might need someday.
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John, Thanks for the info - it is on the way so I will know for certain pretty soon. I had not thought of fishing leader wire - I only came to piano wire because I have some and know it is hard to bend, unlike annealed wire which I use for all kinds of things, principally stropping blocks at least of late.
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Planking is done. As Keith Aug said in his build log, the only planks that had to be tapered were the last one on each side. At the top (bottom?) where the bulb meets the fin. So here is the port side after a bit of Bondo and a good sand with 80/120 grit. I used a paint thinner soaked rag tp get the sawdust off and ma searching for areas that need more attention (there are more than I had hoped). I am also re configuring my work shop to accommodate a temporary paint booth. I was planing on using commercial spray paint (gloss Navy Blue for the hull and gloss Burgundy below the water line. I have to create an area big enough to hold Endeavour and still not get over spray over everything. I had thought about doing it outside (it is getting so we don't have thunderstorms every afternoon now) but I want to keep the movements to the minimum distance and I think I have a plan.
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Keith - thanks, I can get Beadalon wire here in the US from Amazon (who would have guessed?). I have ordered some .47 mm thickness stainless wire. It come 30' to a roll so hopefully one is all I will need.
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With the hull planking almost complete I was thinking about the standing rigging while waiting for glue to set. The kit provides 1 mm diameter black line for the standing rigging but little detail. It shows the shrouds looped through the chain plates and the ends lashed together. Clearly (IMHO) a racing sailboat of this era would have had turnbuckles or some other way to adjust the shrouds. And I am reasonably sure they did not used tarred hemp for the shrouds. More likely it was wire rope or possibly solid rod rigging. 1mm diameter would be about .04 inches or about 1.4" at full size (.04 X 35). I was toying with the notion of using piano wire instead of the provided black line for the standing rigging. Music wire is hard, strong and not easily bent so it would be a bear to work with, but annealed wire is so easy to bend I doubt you could keep it straight once it was in place. I am planning on trying this out on some music wire that I already have, but I need longer lengths that the 24" inch pieces I have. I have a few (not enough) turnbuckles and have ordered some more of several sizes to see what might look appropriate but have to figure out how to connect them to the kit provided chain plates and how to connect the music wire to the turnbuckles. Here are pictures of the chain plates (still on the etched sheet) and a sample of the turnbuckle. At .75" it would be about two feet long at scale which I think is too short for a boat this size.
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Here is a look at the stern counter planking. I probably will need a good deal of Bondo here. I purposefully left the planks long as I am not at all sure that the counter fillers are the correct size. I will not know for sure until I get her turned right side up and can see where the stern decking will end. My plan then is to trim both the filler and planking to match the stern deck configuration. Hopefully it is not off by much but I will not know until I get the rest of the hull planking done which should be today. The planking continues up the keel. I will need to add another row to the bulb planking soon, only another row of keel planking I think. I bought a new tube of Bondo yesterday - I think I am going to need a good bit of it.
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I have the sides planked up to about half way between bulkheads 18 and 19. The bulb planking I added at bulkhead 20 is no longer wide enough to fit the hull plan king under so I added another row of the 2X2mm planks on each side. This should hold for another bulkhead or so. By the time you get to between bulkheads 16 and 17 the bulb keel has reached the maximum thickness and at least one more row of bulb planking will be required. To my amazement, but as predicted in Keith Aug's build log, the planking is coming together and it appears that the rows will progress nicely up the keel without having to taper any planks but those in the last row. The picture shows the port side with the top row of planking almost horizontal. I never found plank tapers to be all that rewarding an experience so I for one am happy if things turn out as the appear to be headed.
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When the planking got near the bottom of the rudder I added the rudder to see how things looked and was shocked to find that the kit supplied pieces (structure and rudder do not fit together better than they apparently do - or I have made an error in the assembly. The aft edge of the rudder does not fair into the hull as neatly as it should. I had already added one plank thickness (1 mm aka 1/25") to the keel when the photo was taken. As it turns out it took 3 thickness to get the rudder and hull to fair properly IMHO. At the other end the planking was starting to meet at a flatter and flatter angle - getting closer to horizontal and thus harder to keep an "edge" so I decided to follow Kieth Aug's example in his build log and added three rows of the 2mm X 2mm bulb planking starting at bulkhead 20. This was I think two bulkheads further forward than Kieth did but my fairing job on the balsa inserts was probably not as accurate as Kieth's. So anyway, I now have the beginnings of the bulb keel planking. Having now planked up to the bottom of the rudder I find that the planking on the sides are off by about half a plank width (2 mm) at the rudder post. I am willing to declare victory as this is the best result I have ever achieved and that is after 28 rows of planking. Hopefully it will not show under the paint (or the second planking should I decide to do that).
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