AlfredoCampos

Hey, thank you for your remarks! Followed your advice regarding the holes, it looks nice. Pics soon I'd like your opinion on the clink I had at the bow both in first and second planking, it's been in my head this whole time and your remark on the "wood supplied" got me thinking further. Could it be that Occre's hull structure and plank width does not allow - at least for a beginner - deviations from their instructions and, thus, prevent a proper planking design? I started to consider this because: 1) looking at your scratch build, namely the fact that you have 10 planks and occre has 15 5mm planks. 2) when at first i fit a planking batten at the middle, indeed it went far up at the bow and to a lesser degree in the stern. Indeed, when I was planking the clink was the result of forcing the planks to the place they needed to be in order to fit the 15 planks, when naturally they wanted to go up. Could it be that, with the premade structure and planks supplied its impossible - at least for a begginer - to deviate from the instructions, meaning i would have needed less and wider planks? Or is it just begginers lack of skill? Thank you!

Well, it basically took me a month to do the second planking. I expected that, despite the awful result of the first planking, after filling and sanding the second planking would go smoothly. It was not so. The biggest problem was at the bow, where it proved impossible - for my hands - to plank properly, as the planks clinked at a certain point, leading to this ugly result. Furthermore, there are small gaps in many places, where i was unware that planks were not properly connected. You can also note the small holes left by the pins, but I couldn't hold the planks while the glue settled. Now, before i go further with the build, i'll take a bit to improve the result. I'll try to sand a bit to even the hull, filling and painting where necessary. Thank you all!

Hello to you all, and a happy new year! Again a lot of time has passed, progress does go rather slow. Still, from the above pictures, you could see how much work my model needed before I could proceed to the second planking. In the following picture you can see the overall look at the moment. The hull was filled and sanded, the keel applied, the spaces for oars cut and the topmost of the second planking applied. I think that the model is looking rather decent after this work, namely the bow which was, after the first planking, a complete disgrace. A frontal look, here its possible to see that, with considerable filling and sanding, the deformation near the keel was correct quite nicely I believe. And a look at the stern, where the first planking was also quite messed up, namely with a splintered plank and a poorly done stealer, was also corrected. Now onwards to the second plaking, now quite more satisfied with my work!

Thank you very much! Had no idea these were available.

Some news, just realizing it took me a month to do the first planking! Well, its over and while I enjoyed immensely, I must admit that when I looked at it I was absolutely disappointed with my work. Even if it is my first build, and most of the hull was quite well - considering I decided to not plank according to Occre's instructions - both the stern and particularly the bow look awful. At the stern, that curve shown in a previous post was compensated with the next plank and the result was not that bad. At the bow, the only good news are that planks on both sides are reasonably paralel or, at least, when they aren't I managed to even afterwards. As can be seen below, I decidid to go ahead with the drop plank but screwed it completely. Not sure what I did wrong, probably measurement issues, but not only does it look terrible, I didn't manage to really increase plank width and the bent I induced in plank flow required another uneven plank to compensate. Worst of all, as you can see the planking is completely clinked between bulkheads 4 and 5, nearly looks like a stair. I noticed it in the beginning as noted in an earlier post, but though I could correct it not realizing what the problem actually was. Indeed, the premade slot in the false keel for bulkhead 4 was not as deep as it should be so it is about 2 o 3 mm higher that it should, thus distorting that whole area. Now, while I was truly sad with the result, I already started sanding (pics for a future post) and it's starting to actually look like a decent job. Not everything is lost! Most of the hull requires nearly no filling, yet that cursed area between bulks 4 and 5 will definitely do need a lot. Besides that, some repairs on the interior are needed, as a couple floorboards fell off, a couple bulkheads were damaged by the pins and its quite filthy with white stains from glue. Any comments appreciated! Thank you!

After your helpful comment, I noticed this build of yours which I had not yet seen. Absolutely beautiful and so inspiring!

Hi! Thank you for your comment! Indeed, I should have already pointed that out, as I've noticed it recently. As I concluded that Occre indicated a simplified build at the bow, I assumed the same was the case with the transom and deadwood area. In truth, it was lack of attention on my part, since I used the planking indicated my modelshipways (https://sybaritica.me/model-shipways-bounty-launch-03/) and the pictures of the reconstruction by Cornwall's Maritime Museum (https://nmmc.co.uk/2017/01/follow-the-bounty-launch-build/). However, these clearly show that, while Occre's indications are indeed simplified at the bow's planking, they are correct at the stern and the garboard goes up to the transom as you say. Again, proper research and no rushing is fundamental, something that my begginer's eagerness still compromises sometimes. It would have saved a lot of time, even though the opportunity to train plank twisting was still valuable. I hope that a good sanding will allow me to correct this with the second planking.

Hello, some news on the progression of the planking. Laid the first planks above the garboard, focusing on keeping the rise at the bow as low as possible to avoid crowding. It's still somewhat sharp, it seems, and a bit uneven between the 4th and 5th bulkheads, which will require filling. Besides the sharp twist at the garboard, I think the twist of the following planks presents a nice curve. Like the bow area, it also presents some uneven transitions which will require filling. Although the space available allowed two planks, it required too much twisting and bending to fit, looking unnatural, so I decided to add a stealer here. Only later did I realize the cut plank should have been the previous, with the stealer cut upwards. A dent at the end is clearly visible, requiring further filling in the end. Finally another perspective showing how, besides the stealer, the plank split and was corrected instead of using a new one. It also shows an eventual problem which I ask advice for ahead. First of all, the curve between bulkhead 10 up to 11 and to the transom seem rather forced or unnatural. - Is this usual, that is, does it "correct itself" with progression? It cand be corrected with another stealer, but that will make the planks at the transom very thin. Should I simply enlarge the following plank in this are to even the shape? Second, I'm considering using a drop plank at the bow, as measurements indicate that planks will end at nearly half width. Yet, altough I've read a lot about drop planks, I'm having some difficulty calculating widths, let's see if I achieve it with no need for spare planks, as I'm running out of them. Thirdly, less important, the wood seems rather rough everywhere, compared to what I see in other builds. Am I maybe soaking/heating it too much? Thank you all!

Hi everyone. As this is an old post, not sure if anyone will notice, but I'll give it a try A doubt on drop planks. In one of the tutorial documents (Simple hull planking techniques for beginners by De Bakker and Brooker) there seem to be two different illustrations for drop planks. On page 21, it seems 3 planks are running along, the middle one finishes in a 90º degree inwards angle and the above and below planks widden from there onwards. On page 27 the method described by Al applies, two planks are running along, finish forming a 90º degree angle (45º each) where a new plank starts. Thank you!

Hi everyone! First of all, apologies for not posting for a while. As decisions had to be made (see above), I spent some time reading and gathering opinions. I decided to go for a more realistic build, using full length planks from stern to bow, with a correct garboard bent on the deadwood area and with proper measurements to ensure i can fit all planks (13) along the hull. So basically I'll leave the instructions aside regarding planking. With said measurements, checked and rechecked, I believe it is possible to fit all planks with going below the 1/2 width limit. Eventually I may have to use a stealer and a drop plank and that will be it. First step was sanding down the false keel and garboard plank at the stern (and following planks too) in order to keep it straight with the rudder. Stopped halfway for safety, will complete when the whole hull is planked. Also added another support block between bulkheads 3 and 4, as the plank was dropping bellow the intended shape. In the pictures below, you'll see the result of the work on the garboard plank. I have another 3 placed, will post later. Again, apologies for the time since my last post, for a first time modeller this has taken quite some trial and error. 1) Garboard at the bow, I think I managed a good result in not allowing it to go upwards. Note the added supports. 2) Garboard at the stern, properly (halfway) sanded down. 3) Garboard twist. Here, I'm afraid I may have twisted a bit sharply, should possibly have been more gradual from one bulkhead to the other. After following allong, when the hull is fully planked, I may correct it with filler in order to achieve a nice curved shape.

Now that I've laid the top plank, I'm having serious doubts on how to proceed. I've read a lot these past weeks, all manual here just to start with, and videos too. I think I've grasped the notion of measuring all bulkheads in order to find the width for planks on each bulkhead, which are to be tappered. The basics seem simple, like in the picture: lay a planking band, find measurements for both bands and sides with tick strips, the goal is to have the same number of planks across the hull, from stern to bow, eventually using stealers and drop planks. What is my doubt then? Instructions from both Occre and Artesania Latina (with differences) show a competely different method, whereby the result seems a planking done from the outside to the inside. Occre starts planking from the keel, allowing the planks to flow upwards: the fourth plank already connects to the upper one. From there (pictures are scarce in the instructions) it planks from the top towards the keel, filling the open space as a "closing mouth". Furthermore, the garboard goes up to the transom, not twisting it to follow the keel under the last bulkheads, this part is planked with second planking only. Artesania Latina is similar and with more detailed pictures. Its quite evident what I'm calling "closing mouth". It also uses stealers and (properly?) twists the garboard to follow the keel, although it doesn't mention the need to sand the keel in the deadwood area in order to accomodate the planks. Another user, Boerscht, follows Occre's instruction with beautiful results, you can check his log here: I can't decide how to go forward and would love to hear your suggestions. While Boerscht's build is beautiful and shows that Occre's instructions (and Artesania's, except for the garboard twist part) can lead to a great result, it seems completely contradictory to everything I've read. Those increasingly smaller, oval planks, "closing the mouth" just seem unnatural. Still, it seems results are guaranteed if I follow like this. Instead, it would seem that a more realistic build would to be adequately measure everything, tapper and use drop planks and stealers on the bow. This real size ship, by the National Maritime Museum in Cornwall shows that possibility in practice. However, I laid a planking batten to check the flow of the hull (I nailed it but forgot to photograph, redid only with clothing clamps just to show you) and indeed - if laid naturally - the batten goes all the way up to the top plank. So it seems that each full plank would need to alternate with a drop plank. Would love to hear how you'd continue this build! Should I try "following the rules" for a more realistic result or go for a simpler route? Am I overthinking a begginners build ou did I get the theory wrong?!

Started planking (after bevelling) and, for a beginner, bending planks is quite the challenge until you figure it out! My first mistake (at least felt like it) was to soak and heat and only after applying heat, bending into form. It didn't work, when clamps were taken off the plank sprang back about halfway into its original form. Tried to force it into place and clamp it while the glue dried, useless, it held for a bit and then unglued. Ended breaking a couple planks. Finally understood that I needed to apply the heat while bending and that the proper form must be achieved before glueing, no forcing whatsoever. Also got an electric plank bender, a wonderful tool. Simply soak in hot water for a few minutes and patiently apply the bender, carefully but firmly, until the needed form is achieved. Dry fit and clamp for cooling, afterwards the planks were exactly as intended. Maybe not an exact mirror, but looking rather well.

After the problems mentioned in the intro, I checked every bulkhead and unglue those which weren't squared - most in fact. Also built a little jig to both hold the ship and keep the keel straight. The final result, even if not perfect, was greatly improved.

The Bounty Boat is my first model. Its fascinating to learn the misteries of ship building and woodwork, yet as fascinating as sometimes hard. After a series of problems with a bent keel and poorly placed (not squared) bulkheads, I wrote my first post here desperately looking for help. The wonderful people here promptly came to the rescue, suggesting many ideas on how to verify everything and fix the problems. After solving those issues and going forward with the build, I've studied a lot, both manuals and videos, yet the learning curve is steep. I thus decided to start this build log, both as a place to find help and suggestions, and a place for future beginners like me to find clues on essential skills and tasks. I hope you like it! If you want or need a discussion on bent keels and unsquared bulkheads, try here:

Thank you very much, got it!