yvesvidal

thanks Piet. so far so good
 
here some pictures of where I am at
 
 
 

I have started to line out the hull for planking.   There are 20 strakes under the wales.   The first two are already done....those were the ones with the drop plank.  So I measured midship for the remaining 18 strakes.  They will be 3/16" wide.   Interestingly,  the strakes fit perfectly as they did on the contemporary draft.   There will be just two belts of strakes.   The first will have the remaining 8 under the wales.  The bottom belt will have ten.  Basically the hull was split in half down to the bottom of the square tuck as shown in that contemporary planking expansion.
 

 
I used black line tape to split the hull into the two belts.  I am spending a great deal of time examining it from all angles until I am pleased with it.   Then I marked along the tape and removed it.  All there is left to do is to take the space remaining in belt one on each bulkhead and transfer it to a tick strip.
 

 
The tick strip is divided into eight with the help of the planking fan.   Then the tick marks are transferred back to that bulkhead.  Once again I am amazed at how the cutter is so well designed by the naval architects.  Almost every bulkhead except for the four forward bulkheads have strakes exactly 3/16" wide.  Its a straight run to the square tuck with 3/16" planks.  No tapering/widening required in this first belt . Only those at the extreme bow need to be tapered which is a huge time saver.
 

 
This will not be the case in the lower belt.  The strakes will get wider at the stern as they run off the hull and also require tapering at the bow.  But it should be a very very close match to that original planking expansion for 1806.  Yippee for me.  It all worked out.
 
I also started fixing the wales at the bow which you can see in the photos.  They are now the proper thickness entering the rabbet or nearly so....almost there!!

Hi,
 
Am attaching some more pics.
 

 
Rudder assembly. 
 

 
Lantern for the boat. It is of 13 pieces soldered together with candle inside.
 

 
just for comparison of size!!
 

 
Anchor... and it's parts.
 

 

 
Mast, boom, bow sprit and gaff.
 

 
Test rigging ...not complete..
 
Rao
 
 

Thanks Michael, Matija & Nils for your comments.
 
You are correct Matija regarding the no. of seats. The same thing occurred to me also; the original which I followed shows six. I thought, it would be cramped, i reduced it to five. I am attaching the photos which I followed in the beginning. Whatever the space, i could visually place between the frames, I did; but that had created problem at the stern. 
 
If I had seen DCooper's jolly boat earlier, I would have got better understanding. Anyway, I thought of proceeding further and learn by my mistakes.
 
 

 

 

 
Six seats!!
 

 

 
 
.Rao
 

I added the first two strakes below the wales.  This was to get the drop plank out of the way.  The drop plank was shaped from a piece of card stock first just to get the hang of it.  After I was satisfied that it fit OK I  cut the real ones from wide stock the same thickness as the planking.  They were pre shaped as you can see.  You can also see my pencil on the edge to simulate the tarred seams. Now I will line off the remainder of the hull into two belts and finish the planking.  I also painted the first of many layers of red paint on the counter at the stern.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

 

 

Good evening, one and all.  Have been working on the ECB with some nice progress. 
 
First, a full overhead view of current status.
 

 
What, you may ask, are those things hanging over the rails?  Well, mister man, them be home built nets for the hold. 
 
Yep, the Admiral has been busily making fish nets for the ECB.
 

 

 
But wait, there's more!  We can't have the crew shivering on the cold cabin - so knitted using common pins as the knitting needles, we have a scale blanket for the crew.
 

 
I am still working on the stove - using the Fatsco Tiny Tot Stove as a model, it is made of a dowel cut to scale (about 18 inches tall, 13 inches in diameter).  The legs are just toothpicks.  Will be adding some sand into the base and a cooktop before running the stovepie to the overhead.
 

 
Have been working on color scheme - think I will go back to a grey for the outside of the wet well - the brown just doesn't feel right.  I like the bottom red on the interior.  Will leave it partially unpainted as a repair underway.
 

 
I will be keeping this section unplanked.  I will also be leaving off some deck planks - probably around the wet well and also at the cabin.  Not quite sure yet.
 

 
I also have finished the bulkhead between the cabin and the hold.  The hold side will be painted in the same way as the hold so it looks a tad weathered and worn.  The cabin side will be a dirty white - backs up to the coal stove, so it would tend to get a bit mucky.  I still need to do some more painting and paneling for the cabin before I start installing the deck framing.  The forward hold is nearly finished, just need to decide what is going to be in there and anchor it in place.
 

 
Appreciate any suggestions or ideas on how to make it look better - still a long road to travel with this one and am enjoying the ride!

Posted: Fri Jan 11, 2008
 
Yesterday there was a sunny day here in Milan, after a lot of days of snow, rain or clouds. So I took the opportunity and I shot some new photos from the terrace of my house to my favorite vessel.
 
As special gift of the new year I attach here some of them.
 
Kind regards
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

All pin rails inclusive riding bitts and fore bitts are finished . . . and only 24 additional belaying pins left to turn 
 
Thomas
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

Hi,
 
This is my first post on my small boat build. I am a total novice - having inspired by great builds in MSW, I tried this Long Boat. 
 
I did not had any plans, followed some photos. No kits or to any scale. Totally scratch built.  During the last eight months, this has given me a lot of satisfaction and learning. 
I have followed some wonderful builds in MSW. Though this (my first boat) may not pass for any standard model with experts around in MSW, being a novice, this is my crude attempt to learn ship modelling  There are many mistakes. I expect you to point out each and correct me so that I can learn and plan for another model. 

If I am allowed I will post some more pics. The model is almost complete.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Regards,
Rao A.L.G.
 
 

Since I still uploaded more photos on the "photobucket.com" site and it costs nothing to show, I add a few more additional images of the brick, taken on the same day of the last messages.
The heads of the brass nails were leveled and do not bother, so I do not intend to remove them. With the second planking they will disappear. Jack.
 
 
01 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100098_zps3d70a4a9.jpg

02 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100101_zps59a0efdd.jpg

03 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100099_zps3c77c405.jpg

04 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100100_zps6c580ebb.jpg

05 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100097_zps43c4da21.jpg

 

Posted: Wed Jan 09, 2008
 
Further work on the rudder.
 
Some days ago I coated with a primer (yellow) the straps and today, being them completly dry, I started to prepare the area for the final color.
 
To do so I used some stripes of masking tape in order to protect as much as possible the surface not involved in painting.
 
The first image shows the area protected with the masking tape and the second with a coat of Gun Metal applied. I had to wait a couple of hours for drying and then I applied a second coat. I think that gun metal is much more realistic than copper for the straps.
 
In the next message the final result.
 

 

tried the rat line methods i saw in the forums and was not satisfied with them, too slow, too tedious, too uneven etc... so came up with my own technique, fast , about two minutes per line, even, doesnt pull the shrouds out of line and almost idiot proof,, i can even see a way to easily and consistantly allow for the proper sag in the lines

first build, first scratch build, 5 1/2 months

First two images show the entire hull capsized, on both sides. As you can see we are slightly more than halfway even if, maybe, the most complex part should be overcome. As my habit, as I progress with the planking, I level the surface with sandpaper. In this way I have left less work to do at the end.
01 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100103_zps304bb4f3.jpg

02 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100104_zps775ae2a7.jpg

In the next image I'm showing a trick I use when I can not avoid gaps between a strip and its neighbouring. Keep in mind that this normally occurs over a small area, not on the entire strake. In this case, instead of sanding the higher strip, reducing its thickness, I prefer to paste another small strip on the lower strake. Next, when the glue is totally dry, I level properly the whole without the need to reduce the thickness of the plank in the involved area.
In the picture shown below you can see three pieces of this kind ready to be sanded and if you look more in deep near them you will see two areas already leveled. They are distinguished by a color slightly different.
03 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100105_zpsf1108e6a.jpg

You can also see that the last two strakes downwards are interrupted before the bow and are cut diagonally. This solution is viable thanks to the fact that the double planking is planned and this allows to use a normal straight strip. To avoid this "trick" would be necessary to start from a much wider strip and cut out the right shape to follow the lines of the hull. I think those who are used to single planking know what I mean.
During the second planking this situation will happen again. However, having the intention to use for this second pass sheets of veneer from which to derive the strips, I should be able to adopt the correct method more easily and with less waste of timber. .
. . but we must also take into account that the hull will be covered with copper plates and, if this area will stay below the waterline these critical efforts may be waste of time. In that case I would not complicate my life to do something that will not be visible.
04 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100106_zpsfbe729b1.jpg

Finally, the stern. From what you can see from the photo below you probably understand that the transom is sharp corner shaped . . but it does not. In the model it is expected the transom be rounded. Here, too, I adopted another trick to speed up the laying of the first planking (it's 2mm thick). With such a thickness it's not easy to bend the strip to give it the rounded shape of the stern, so I made sure to have a very large underlying base on which pasting the strip with no need of bending but being sure it rests perfectly on the whole underlying base. Subsequently I'll shape round everything (obviously removing the brass nails) without problems being practically a block of wood and I'll have to worry about bending the strips only for the second planking, but with the thickness of 0.5mm. Definitely a much easier job.
But I must admit, to be honest, that it's the first time I try this "trick" . . hope it works.
05 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100107_zps7b47ce8b.jpg

I stop here this long exposure, not easy to describe only with words.
If someone do not understand what I wrote, which is highly likely, seen the way I explain probably not much clear and in a foreign, for me, language, please do not worry to ask for further clarification.
Regards, Jack.

Hello,
 
another bit of progress...
 
I hope the pictures are self explanatory.
 
Best regards,
Jan
 
 

Dear visitors of this build,
 
last days I have been working on several things. One of them are the doors and the deck cover (not sure what is the right term...) and also the handrails. 
 
There is also a picture of ornaments on the bow. There will be still some more decorations needed...
 
Thanks for watching! 

I tried a little different approach for placing the planking above the wales than what is described in the instructions.  After pondering the pros and cons of placing these planks in a number of pieces as per the instructions or in one continuous piece I went with the one piece.  I know it’s not the way it was done way back when but the practical side of me took control and decided to deviate a bit from the norm.  Before setting the planks I use my jig to pre-bend the bow end of the planks.
 

 
 
Prior to setting the first plank I cut in four grooves across the plank to denote the faux ends that would have been made by the individual pieces.  For the second plank I notch out for the gun ports and sweeps but kept it as one long plank.
 
Clamping the first plank in position

 
First and second plank above the wale

 
The remaining five planks were all set as continuous pieces from stem to stern.
 

 
 
Then using the notches in the second planks as guides I cut out the gun ports.  I still need to do the sweeps.
 

 
I took care not to get glue on the exposed portion of the gun port frames so the planking would not stick there.
 

Hi all, it's me again
 
I startet to build the masts and tops now. The precut parts have to be planked, I stained the strips with a mix of teak and oak, the transoms (?) are walnut, I stained the edging black and assambled all togehter.  I Comes out nice I think. Next will be the salings.
 
Thx for your attention
 
Cheerio
 
Max

Hi together
 
Well, I am through with my boat earlier than I thought... At least: Now :D
 
I have atached some pics (as usual) to show the result of an almost one-week-Job. I had a lot of fun although I thought at the start it will NEVER be something similar to a boat. But I admit - indeed it a boat.
 
Thx for your attention and interest
 
Cheerio
 
Max

Hello again...
 
the work on the foremast goes very satisfying. I am ready with the first, the lower, part. Next will be the upper part of the mast. Now, that I do this masting this way I understand how the process works best. My problem with my first build, the Half Moon, - or better with the instructions by Corel - was that there was hardly no space between the crows nest and the mast itself for the shrouds. It was very tricky to fasten them. But here with the Caroline there is more to see and understand how the shrouds thing will work. Thus I do... (As my father told me: You will never ever stop to learn... what a wise guy he is) And now I can see how it is to be done to create the masts step by step and to fix the shrouds. I like it really
 
But pls see the pics and dont hesitate to comment if you ever want. In Germany it is winter time now, and in the region I live in winter means cold, fog, snow and a lot of time in the shipyard (as I have always my four-week-vacation from mid Dec to mid Jan because of the dogs. Its more easy to take a walk as long as it is light and in the winter evenings fall fast). So I will be able to have a lot of rigging work in my vacation.
 
Cheerio and best wishes to you all
 
Max

thank Anja
the next images show the actual appearance of the ship
 

bhermann - I do not have the whole picture Ropewalk, the next time I'll make while working a whole photos.
Continue taking pictures from the construction of lifeboats
 

hello
next to the ship I made ​​cannon (bronze material)
Only 8 pieces and make took me a couple of weeks.
All of the cannons are made by me

more photos
deck equipment worn tried to do

next pictures 2011