yvesvidal

Then I continued with the port frames and planking was started.


Planking process took much time and I was lucky to finish it.

Misc hull plating shots

The figurehead was inspired by an old plastic Heller model of La Sirene.  I took a pic of the figurehead, and scaled it down to size. Then it was a matter of printing out, gluing to a piece of pear, and cutting out.  She currently looks like an ancient idol.  Much work to be done on her!

Creating the cannons (cannonades? carronades?  I can't remember ) was really fun.  I turned a master in my mini-lathe, then created a mold.  The metal is pewter.  The other cannons shown are for my Lexington which is also collecting dust.  I think I'll finish the Syren first, then the Lex, then the Confederacy.  I also have a tiny model I've been fiddling with in my spare time.  And of course the Triton.  And YES.  I know if I'd focused on one project at a time, one of them would be done by now.  I just couldn't resist starting each project as it came down the pike!

Deck is done.   I remember that I used a black Sharpie marker to color the edges of the planks before gluing them in.  This created a very nice effect once the planks were installed and sanded, BUT the ink from the Sharpie reacted with a Mastic I applied to the deck, which required me to resand.  It ended up fine, but was very scary for a while.  Lesson learned:  Always test paints/stains/inks on scrap pieces first...  

Continuation of the previous message . . full view images.
 
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Regards, Jack.Aubrey

Friday, October 3, 2014 - Structure of the stern  
I put aside for the moment the figurehead "dilemma", although the topic remains open, to move on. 
 
It's been several days since I posted new pictures of the state of the shipyard and what I am about to show may appear a very small thing for those who have not experienced the problems I lived. 
In fact I could not spend the time on the model as I wanted because some commitments did not allow me, but apart from this detail, in fact, after a first attempt that did not achieved the results I expected, I had to disassemble what was wrongly done and start over with some variations. The explanation is all here. 
 
In the first picture you can see the exterior of the stern, which is slightly curved and "square" shaped, shape that is to be considered temporary. In fact, the next step will be to cut out the contours to the shape of the plans. At the time the sizes are quite generous. But from the outside, you don't understand how this structure is built . .
 
01 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100034_zps83e0931a.jpg

 
Instead, the view from inside should serve to show how everything is set up. 
In fact we can identify three elements that compose it and which, together, provide the thickness and adequate strength until the planks will not be applied:
 
- Four shaped supports which are fixed to the last bulkhead and provide the base for the other two elements. They are made with special plywood because I felt very sturdy and therefore unsuitable to use the classic poplar plywood. However, it is the same material used for the keel.
- The outer part consisting of two shaped plywood pieces of 1,5mm. applied externally to the previous element. The top one is simply rectangular, the lower one has a shape that I had to get empirically by testing first with cardboards until I identified the right one and then copy it on to the plywood.
- Once the second element was fixed the next day I proceeded to stiffen the inside using lime 8x2mm strip glued properly. Note the need to cut with a given angle the side that met the internal angle and the bulkhead. To do this was very useful the power sander that I bought from Proxxon time ago.
 
Now that everything is perfectly dry it looks like a very strong structure able to deal with the stress of the next processing.
 
02 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100033_zps8b1cb266.jpg

 
Finally, an overview of the whole skeleton of the hull.
 
03 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100032_zps1be31e11.jpg

 
To be continued . . Regards, Jack.  

Slow progress but a toddler will have that affect.
 
frame coming along, next step desc and some furniture

 
must improve my photography skills
 
regards
Ian

Update, at last.
 
As stated before the pipe work below deck is a pain but I have now completed all of it to the aft deck house.
That includes raising and lowering the sails, tops'ls and controlling the sails.
 
Next step is to raise, lower and control the stays'ls, this will be done from the fore deck house.
 
Here is a little clip.
 

Le Cygne . . Continuation  
Here below five other images of the brig "le Cygne".
 
01 Le%20Cygne/dsc_0611_zpsbbb8f515.jpg

02 Le%20Cygne/dsc_0614_zps85484955.jpg

03 Le%20Cygne/dsc_0615_zpsadfe6f10.jpg

04 Le%20Cygne/dsc_0617_zps2c8301cd.jpg

05 Le%20Cygne/dsc_0619_zps421f9278.jpg

 
That's all regarding this ship/model. Regards, Jack.Aubrey.
 

I continue with a series of images of another "brick of 24", belonging to the same class of Le Cyclope.
 
This model depicts "Le Cygne", the model described in the monograph from ANCRE. Even here I do not know who the model maker is but surely he well knows what to do and how . . and it pays more care in removing dust from the model before taking photos of it.
 
Unlike Le Cyclope, Le Cygne mounted 24pdrs carronades and only two 6pdrs guns at bow. Here are three major differences:
- The figurehead
- The poop lateral "bottles" and the kind of decorations
- The gunports size, that are much larger on Le Cygne than the same of Le Cyclope; I believe that this difference is due to the presence of carronades instead of the guns, to provide a greater visual shooting to carronades.
 
Here below five images of Le Cygne. . to be continued. . 
A cordial greeting, Jack.Aubrey 
 
01 Le%20Cygne/dsc_0600_zps7c6c0c60.jpg

02 Le%20Cygne/dsc_0601_zps33d3b303.jpg

03 Le%20Cygne/dsc_0603_zps00d08111.jpg

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The next job was the netroll. I started painting and weathering and after this I placed the net on the roll. Voor netting I use bathsponges wich have nice netting if you cut the string holding them together. I also painted and weathered the trawldoors wich are made from aluminium so no rust this time.

Thanks, Yves and Nils for your comments, I have greatly appreciated your feedback. I also have to show a second model of this brick/brig class, coming soon . .
 
As promised, some overall views of the hull . .
 
01 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1090995_zpsdf171607.jpg

 
02 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1090996_zpse1dd41aa.jpg

 
03 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100002_zpsc51d362f.jpg

 
And last but not least the prow completed with the filler blocks, although not yet sanded.
Next step i'll attack the poop. Hoping in a good result.
Greetings, Jack.
 
Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/CAM00340_zps1b9ae24d.jpg

 

Wednesday, September 24th, 2014
 
I've completed the installation of the lateral reinforcements at the poop as shown in the following picture . .
 
01 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/ca8e53ef-cec4-4139-8c3d-ec00064093fe_zps6a2e4853.jpg

 
. . and the same was also made at prow. Now all the bulkheads are connected together through these reinforcements and the result is very rigid and strong. This also gives an idea of the sheer of the deck. 
 
02 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/24aa2826-0150-4342-a0eb-d35d1b59b315_zpscde3a7e9.jpg

 
Then I worked around the prow, adding the toptimbers to the stem in order to obtain a supporting structure for the planks there.
I've also reinforced the two toptimbers of the first bulkhead by adding a small piece of plywood to enlarge the existing ones. This detail will help when I'll have to bevel this bulkhead. 
I would like to explain that all the toptimbers will be removed when the planking will be in place . . but this is a matter that I will discuss better in the future, probably now is too early . .
 
03 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/0afe5d3a-551b-45c8-9277-6920ab4e91de_zpsa43ac47c.jpg


A detail of the toptimbers at the stem . . 
 
04 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1090999_zps868aba59.jpg

 
In the next message I'll show some overall views, regards, Jack.

Tuesday, September 23th, 2014
 
Another small step forward: I've added new lateral reinforcements close to the toptimbers and the deck. 
This is probably not strictly necessary to guarantee the hull being crushproof but you must know that I'm obsessed to build strong models. So, this afternoon, I amused myself to reinforce again . .   
 
01 Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/P1090992_zps03457775.jpg

02 Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/P1090994_zps484f9230.jpg

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04 Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/P1090991_zpsedf348aa.jpg

05 Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/P1090993_zps7956957e.jpg

 
Next it's time to work on the prow and the poop . . It will not be so immediate. Regards, Jack.

Tuesday, September 23, 2014  
The hull sheleton is now assembled, with in addition a couple of reinforcements installed to keep the assembly right. Nothing more than  routine at this stage.
 
01 Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/P1090981_zpsc4660614.jpg

02 Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/P1090978_zps8fb786a2.jpg

03 Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/P1090983_zps163101a5.jpg

04 Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/P1090984_zps5ba8d6e7.jpg

 
to be continued at the next message . . . Jack.Aubrey
 

Monday, September 22, 2014
 
Today I started the final assembly of the pieces so far prepared (keel and bulkhrads). It's a simple job, provided the dry fitting showed no problems, where the only precaution required is to glue the bulkheads so that they are perfectly perpendicular to the keel. 
There are so many ways to get this perpendicularity in gluing the bulkheads, in this case I found it easier to use the method that can be deduced from the photos that follow here below. 
The elements are a plank of squared wood the lines which project on the mounting base the location of each bulkhead. By placing the plank on the pencil line and secure it with a clamp you get the support base for a proper mounting. That's all.
 
01 Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/P1090971_zps391d581b.jpg

 
02 Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/P1090972_zpse3e57f44.jpg

 
03 Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/P1090973_zps54cd7277.jpg

 
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For the moment that's all, see you soon. Jack.Aubrey.

Saturday, September 20, 2014  
Yesterday, at the end of the cutting yasks, I started some preparatory activities to fasten the bulkheads to the keel. 
First I started to draw on the back of each bulkhead, where there is no paper, the reference lines for the assembly, then later I proceeded to remove the paper used as a "template" for cutting. To remove the paper, I used the same method of the keel: I placed a wet multi-fiber cloth over the piece and after a couple of minutes, the paper came off without any problem. 
 
So, to allow the wet wood surface to dry without distortions, which is theoretically possible, I immediately placed the bulkhead under the glass plates I had spoken long ago and I'll leave them for one/two days. 
Now the next time I will resume to work, I will provide the definitive assembly of bulkheads and other reinforcements. Then I will start to think about the next steps, which will be focused on the bow and the stern. 
 
Sincerely, Jack.
 
01 Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/P1090970_zps016ce54e.jpg

 
02 Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/P1090969_zpsc49eb9f7.jpg

 
03 Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/P1090968_zpsdc67bacc.jpg

 
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Saturday, September 20, 2014  
Today I completed to cut the bulkheads, a small job because only few of them were missing. Below the images of the dry test that sounds pretty good, having no problems at all at this time. 
Then I did other tasks, little stuff, but I'll explain in detail in a future post. 
Regards, Jack.Aubrey.

01 Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/P1090964_zps101e0520.jpg

 
02 Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/P1090962_zps10a620cd.jpg

 
03 Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/P1090960_zps3fd9ec32.jpg

 
04 Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/P1090965_zps284caef9.jpg

 
05 Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/P1090963_zpsd56f545f.jpg

 

Hi Bob, Michael, Jeff, Steve and everyone for their comments and Likes.

I've been off work with the flu for the past couple of weeks and hence, I've had a little bit more time to work on Ingomar than normal, ie in between bouts of yuckiness and massive headaches! Today was my first day back at work, but I didn't last a full day and had to come home early.

As for Ingomar's railings, the best idea I could come up with is to get a very fine wire or rigging thread and glue it to the outside edge of each stanchion. This method has worked well for my other miniatures (e.g. see photos of Dorade's railings below). However, any other suggestions would be most welcomed, of course!

All the best and happy modelling!

Hi All,
 
Well I thought I should start a post and fully join in.  Whilst looking into the scratch build section options i thought i would do the Panart deck section.  It will give me something to do and look at 
 
Just the frame completed with 2 mm dowels on the key joints


 
 
not up to some levels but a start
 
Ian

Today , I did get the Keel faired and 2 base coats of the flat black ,( 2 more coats and the keel will be ready for installation)  I also added the logo on the Companionway hatch , I then dry fit the keel ( fits perfect ) Next will be the rudder blades and main sheet traveler, Here are the results

Thanks Omega, I am pleased with how the Keel and Bulb turned out , there was alot of fairing . She will have 2 rudders
 
Thanks Richard, These boats are incredible , I have learned alot about them thru the course of this build , ( they are very High Tech. ) and I will keep the pics coming
 
Thanks Joe, She is getting closer to where , I can start to think about her Sea-Trials
 
Thanks Geoff, I hope that you are feeling better , I would like to see your Connie come together
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Hi all.  It's been a long time since I last posted on this build log, but, I was going through some old photos of Dorade's construction and found these.  Hopefully they may be of use as a reference for anyone building their own Dorade with a detailed interior.

Hi all,
 
Years ago I read "Sailing Alone Around the World" by Joshua Slocum, and in January 2012 I decided that I would build his boat, the "SPRAY", in 1/48 scale POF with bent framing. The way Slocum built it.  I started asking questions on this forum, and I want to thank all those who answerd with help.  The information on this forum is invaluable.
 
Then the research began.  In the first chapter of his book, Slocum said he was given an old "fishing smack".  So I looked for fishing smacks of 1800.  About when his was built.  Someone suggested the "Emma C Berry" for framing, so I hunted for information on that boat.  I also gathered as many plan drawings of the "Spray" as I could find.  About five.
 
Now it was time to check and redraw the plans.  The first thing I discovered was that ALL the plans had errors.  Things like, the shear and section views would agree and the shear and the plan views would agree, but the width of the plan was no where near the same as the width of the sections.  Of the drawings I had, the drawing from the appendix in the book was the closest.  So I traced that into an old copy of AutoCad and worked out the errors.
 
Checking the fishing smacks plans had shown a frame spacing of from 15" to 22" I chose 18" for framing the Spray.  I drew a section at each frame.  I offset a line .031" inside to subtract the 1.5" planking Slocum used.  The frames will be 3" X 5" so again I offset another line .062 inside the planking for the frames.  This gave me the section lines for the plug I will carve to shape the frames.
 
I am going to plank only half the deck and deck houses so I can show the insides, taken from the sketches in Slocum's book. (See below)
 
Bob