yvesvidal

...another parts which will be moved to scrap... main top and fore top... dimmention of few parts in tops are wrong so I have to make new tops... I decide to change a little bit construction of the tops as well... so it's also bright side of making tops again
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thank you mtaylor... I'm also happy to be back on MSW
 
So... time to arm a little bit this small vessel
 
Gun barrel was casted with silver and brass alloy... blackening made using solution of selenium acid...
Parts of gun carriage was photoetched in argentan.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
...almost finished gun carriage... without cap square and securing clamps for the gun barrel trunnion... these elements I'll install later... almost on the end to avoid guns breaking in gunports...
 

 

 

 

 

 
These set of guns carriage is only part of full armament... sixth from fourteenth are hidding bellow quarter and forecastle decks...
 

 
... fast method of hooks making...
 

 

 
Hidden gun carriage with tackles... I'm not happy with these tackles...  but good riddance no body gonna see them :P
Next tackle rope are thiner...
 

 
 
 
 
 
 

Anja I'm using enlage cardboard model issue...
Pau Marfin it's Patagonian maple (clone) I've neve heard name Ivory wood for Pau.
Thank you for your commendation Cheers
 
...few more details
 
My method of making cleats...
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
...ladder
 

 

 

 

 

 
...maybe for somebody 'll be useful... and helps to find idea how to make small rings
Ring was finished using steel wool 0000
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Foremast... I'm building model using enlarge cardboard model  from 1/96 to 1/48.
 
Ok, time to show you carvings... made from pau marfin...
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
...parrot after wax mixture...
 

 
 

After when planking and imitation of nailing was finished I started cover model using wax mixture. Pear got really noble and old coloure...I love it!!
 

 

 

 

 
...and some progress
 

 

 

 
... head gratings, rails and toilets
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
...by the way wales was covered using solution of birch tar and terpentine
 

 
 
 
 
 

...continuation of planking
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
...and it's time for some details... small poop door hinge was soldered using silver paste...
 

 

 

 

 
...minature brass rivets...
 

 
...fixed-blocks...
 

 
... rudder hinges... also silver soldering
 

 

 

 
 
 
 

continuation...
 
Deck nails imitation made as well using brass wire but in this case 0,5mm...
 
...becouse I broke few drills I said stop... and I made drill from... brass wire with sharp end... worked brilliant


 

 

 

 

 

 
...some overview of decks
 

 

 
...nothing special, just walls
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
...after all I started bulkheads, keel, sternpost, steam and finally planking...
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
...meanwhile some ladders...
 

 

 
...and planking of course pear wood. Bow planking calibrate to avoid stealers. I formed planks using only water and 36,6 deree celsius from my hands. Pear lath if was cut properly it'll be very flexible Imitation of taring on the edge of each lath was made using soft pencil.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 

Welcome back... after some problems with old MSW my logs and not only mine were lost... so now I'll try restore what I wrote before...
So... I'm building dutch pinnce from XVII century. Vessel was built in Dutch shipyard and then serve few years in Dutch Navy... after all Navy sold ship in 1623 to Swedish Navy. This vessel participate in the battle of Oliwa (coast of Poland) in 1627... battle was part of war between Poland and Sweden. In 1929 vessel came back to the waters of Bay of Gdańsk to took part with other vessels in blockade of the City of Gdańsk. She was sank in 1644.
 
I'm using pear wood for entire model (except deck which was made using birch wood and carvings which is pau marfin)

Rest information you 'll find in following logs...
 
That how model looks after one year...

 
...and some picture from the beginning...
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
...and some picture of my gratings (1,5mmx1,5mm)...
 

 

 

 
...nails imitation made using 0,2mm brass wire...
 

 

 

 
 
Best regards,
Matt

Hi all, the hull is painted now.
 

 

 
Next is the coppering of the hull.

After planking the false deck I started with the gundeck.
 
 

Thanks for the comment, Bob.
 
Well, after sanding, filling and sanding the hull I started with the second planking. The walnut stripes are quite rough and brittle, so I must be very careful.
 

 

 

Hi all, the first planking is done.
 

 

 

 
I'm very satisfied with the shape of the hull.
 

 

 

 
 

Thanks for the sailing video.  I'm not finished yet, but here's where I was a couple days ago.  Thread all over the place and paper sails to check size.
 
Bob
 

Just dropping in to let you know that, despite several serious health problems, a daughter's wedding and other responsibilities, I have made some progress on this project. More importantly, I've also decided on the scope of my work which will allow me to move forward more purposefully. 
 
On the spars, I needed to make one royal yardarm, two mast caps and one mast top, and paint the whole thing.
 
On the hull, so far, it's just painting to make it more crisp looking. Although, you'll see holes in the cap rail where I've pulled out a series of eyes that will be replaced with deadeyes, coming from Cornwall. Blocks will be from C. Passaro, 

At this point, if I've still got your attention, I need your help. In the first photo, just forward of the steering station, is a round place on the deck that has no decking. Something was there; got any ideas what it might have been?
 
In the second photo, on the fixture on top of the house. Could they have stored a boat up there?

Amanda (that's the name at the bow and on the stern) is a full rigged ship. I've gotten her cleaned up a bit, and the damage isn't too bad; I think it's easily repaired. 

What a tangled web we weave.......
 
Showing 'progress' to date with dead eye rig. Also picture of rudder chain and some rope detail on bowsprite and on mast.
 

 

 

 
 
Doug
 
 

Hello
 
Started this about 2 years ago. Building this was only possible by learning from all the great builds on this forum - so thanks to all of you.
 
To date have done the Yards with Stirrups and Footropes. Pictures soon.
 
Regards
 
Doug
 
 

I had to do the long boat oars over. The laser cut oars are way too big. I should have
checked the plans. The oars seem to fit now. Another learning experience.

I am in the process of installing the hammock nettings and have found this to be quite a challenge. For those other relative beginners who don't have access to Chuck Passaro's great instructions for the U.S. Brig Syren , I'd like to offer some thoughts.
Chuck suggested using a piece of cardboard as a background to save your eyes, probably the best suggestion in this Chapter. The attached pictures (sorry, from my phone) demonstrate using white paper. I laced the inboard top of the net first. I am using a smooth piece of wood to give the net some temporary shape and keep the outboard portion of the net separated from the inboard portion. So far, I have only started over once.
 
Now I see that I missed a hinge on one of the gun port lids--
 
Patience, Harley

Wednesday, August 7, 2013   Yes I know, I'm turning around to the real matter waiting for more favorable weather but simply I cannot apply myself too much in these days of heat . .    Having finished the deck, having refined the deck openings, having painted the hull in black where required, there are now no excuses: I need to take on hands sandpaper and level the bulkheads, and then start to apply planks.    But before beginning to bevel the bulkheads I decided to reinforce some weak points of the hull where it takes less than a second to break them . . with relevant consequences.   So I reinforced the "scalmotti" (again I don't know the right english term) by fixing in their inner side a 5 x 2 strip. I used the cyano-acrylate. I used this kind of glue because when I'll need to remove this reinforcement I will be able to get successful quite easily with a simple cutter blade. Subsequently I fixed another strip sideways to the first to obtain a double reinforcement (5 x 4).   The photos here below show the whole.   Now I have no more excuses: . . . beveling and planking are the next unavoidable steps . . but only when there will be more acceptable temperatures.   01   02   03   04   High Definition Images: 01 http://i75.servimg.com/u/f75/12/86/14/83/p1090614.jpg 02 http://i75.servimg.com/u/f75/12/86/14/83/p1090615.jpg 03 http://i75.servimg.com/u/f75/12/86/14/83/p1090619.jpg 04 http://i75.servimg.com/u/f75/12/86/14/83/p1090617.jpg  
 
 
ashiponthehorizon, I hope you are now successful in opening the images . . You really are the first to report me this kind of problem. Jack.

Monday, November 12, 2012  
I decided to work on the gunwales above the third deck battery (waist), an activity that involves the use of the metal columns that I had previously colored red.
 
Obviously I was prepared myself teorically to manage this step and I came to the conclusion that: 

     I would have used the bi-component epoxy glue to bond the metal columns to the deck, and that
    
     I would have bent the rails 2 x 7 to follow the curve of the waist and the forecastle using the trick to prepare two strips 2 x 3,5 glued together, so as to form a 2 x 7, on a template obtained from the same contour of the deck.


 
For the second point it seems obvious to point out that once the whole composite was dried completely would have had the exact shape of one side of the waist and forecastle.
 
Due to the long drying time of the bi-component glue, I spent a day bonding all the columns on the waist while I spent the next day to apply the strip prepared in step 2, the columns are glued in turn to the top strip always with bi-component glue.
 
It was not a difficult job, the only real problem was caused by the same columns that, perhaps because of the molding process not very accurate, were not all exactly with the same height and then in some cases were too short and other too long.
With a lot of patience I leveled all the columns with the mini-drill, which was mounted on a grinding wheel suitable for metal. 
Some adjustments to the bulwarks profile which lacked a few tenths in certain points and then I could proceed with the final bonding.
 
The third day was dedicated to finishing the job done and to complete some of the remaining two ship boats accessories (rudders, eye bolts, coils of rope, etc.), to install accessories today in order to have the boats "really" finished .
 
Below are some pictures of the work done.  
 
01 P1080427.jpg
02 P1080428R.jpg

03 P1080429R.jpg

04 P1080432R.jpg

05 P1080433R.jpg

 
Cheers, Jack.Aubrey.

I take this opportunity to add more photos. .  
01 P1080434.jpg

02 P1080435.jpg

03 P1080436R.jpg

04 P1080438R.jpg

05 P1080439.jpg

 

Hi boys and gals.
 
An update from the shipyard
 
i have installed he fresh water intake filling, mounted the pump incase of "leakage".
And a outlet for the water from the pump. And added "glass" in the windows.
Its a easy start, but i enjoy it. 
 
Børge

The Port Side is at the same progress as the Starboard Side.
I don't make many words because the procedure is the same.
Here some photos of the current progress.