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TBlack

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    Maynard, MA

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  1. I built this kit several years ago for a friend who had bought the kit; opened the box; and decided it was beyond his ability. It ends up being a nice product and a decent size for home display. And, Richard, from what I can see, so far, so good! Tom
  2. You have been busy. Sorry to have missed the journey between hull and now. I'm also wondering about the materials you use to get such crisp results in a small scale. Also, given those hull lines, does she roll a lot?
  3. Alex, Great to hear from you again! I'll buy your description. Some of the replies don't seem to recognize the 20 gun Sphynx class frigate. Aside from that, how is it going? I bought your plan and have a version of the class, albeit in 1:96 scale (half your size), so I can't do all the detail that you have done. We'd love to see how you are progressing. Tom
  4. I'm currently building a model of a Sphynx class frigate. This is a 20 gun ship, so it's a small frigate, but a frigate nevertheless. As an aid, I'm referring to David Antscherl's book, Rigging A Sixth Rate Sloop of 1767-1780. (volume IV). In terms of size, armament, rigging these ships are very similar, so why is one called a frigate and the other a sloop?
  5. Harold Underhill built a model of a BRIG, Leon, and described the construction in a 2 volume work entitled Plank-On-Frame Models first published in 1958. Your grandfather's work is identical except the foremast would need 5 yardarms to complete. Is it possible that he hadn't finished his work? Leon was a real ship, built in Norway in 1880 (the model is flying a Norwegian flag). Underhill doesn't give much history of the vessel, so I can't help you much there. Judging from the pictures you've supplied, I'd say your grandfather knew what he was doing! First rate work. Also, it looks like it's 2-2.5 feet long? Are you sure you have no place to display it. How about hung from the wall, like a picture? Tom Black
  6. It certainly has, and very well laid out, too. Just finished the standing rigging. Here's a progress photo:
  7. I don't know how critical your dimensions need to be, but check at www.onlinemetals.com
  8. Greg, I finally woke up and read the note on page 219 to see that my question was answered there. However, if all this communication here has alerted others to this magnificent volume, and something that should be owned by all, then we're ahead of the game! That you've laid out 3 construction methods POF, POB and lift and in such a way that makes it easy to follow regardless of the method chosen is a phenomenal effort on your part. We don't do knighthoods in this country, but maybe you'd consider a sainthood? Tom
  9. Great video on the railing. Not only good ideas, but also excellent camera work and editing. Hollywood next stop! And a fantastic shop! Lots of good stuff in there! But what's with the broken glass of water (gin, rum?). Can't somebody buy you a new one for your birthday? Tom
  10. I bought the first volume of this build with the goal of starting it after my current project. I had thought that I would reduce the scale to 1:64, but after seeing the carvings, maybe not. I sure hope the instructions on how to achieve a passable result are well documented, otherwise I'm going to be on David's doorstep for instruction! Tom
  11. I can't add any sentiment that hasn't already been expressed. I will add, on a personal note, that you have been very generous to me with your insight, wisdom and humor for which I am most grateful. From the responses to your news, I'd say you have positively impacted many lives around the globe. You are a remarkable fella! Thanks for being you. Tom
  12. Michael, At least the wheels weren't too small! I'm always amazed at the amount of inventory you have that can be cycled into a project. Tom
  13. Are you currently trying to work on a specific model and at what scale? We've all been there! Tom
  14. Oh! THAT'S why my models all skew to the port. Thanks ever so! Still, my point was that .008" may not be noticed and buying pre-cut 1/32" is a lot easier that buying a thickness sander. Tom
  15. 1mm = .47 inches; 1/32" = .45 inches. If you're not too fussy, you can buy 1/32" stock pre-cut. Cherry is a good choice for a darker hull, or Chuck P. sells 1/32" Alaskan Yellow Cedar for a lighter hull. Tom

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