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TBlack

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    Maynard, MA

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  1.    TBlack reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Winchelsea by Fred Healey
  2.    TBlack reacted to a post in a topic: Flag Etiquette
  3.    TBlack reacted to a post in a topic: Can anyone explain square dowels to me...
  4.    TBlack reacted to a post in a topic: Bristol Pilot Cutter by michael mott - 1/8 scale (POF)
  5.    TBlack reacted to a post in a topic: Bristol Pilot Cutter by michael mott - 1/8 scale (POF)
  6.    TBlack reacted to a post in a topic: Schooner Germania (Nova) by KeithAug - Scale 1:36 - 1908 / 2011
  7.    thibaultron reacted to a post in a topic: Thin hull planking
  8.    thibaultron reacted to a post in a topic: Thin hull planking
  9.    mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic: Thin hull planking
  10.    mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic: Thin hull planking
  11. TBlack
    Oh! THAT'S why my models all skew to the port. Thanks ever so! Still, my point was that .008" may not be noticed and buying pre-cut 1/32" is a lot easier that buying a thickness sander. Tom
  12. TBlack
    1mm = .47 inches; 1/32" = .45 inches. If you're not too fussy, you can buy 1/32" stock pre-cut. Cherry is a good choice for a darker hull, or Chuck P. sells 1/32" Alaskan Yellow Cedar for a lighter hull. Tom
  13.    TBlack reacted to a post in a topic: Thin hull planking
  14.    mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic: Bristol Pilot Cutter by michael mott - 1/8 scale (POF)
  15.    dvm27 reacted to a post in a topic: Bristol Pilot Cutter by michael mott - 1/8 scale (POF)
  16.    michael mott reacted to a post in a topic: Bristol Pilot Cutter by michael mott - 1/8 scale (POF)
  17.    druxey reacted to a post in a topic: Bristol Pilot Cutter by michael mott - 1/8 scale (POF)
  18. TBlack
    Me too; very luxurious. I've got some good English tea that I got for Xmas that I can contribute! Is it getting cold up there on the plains yet? Tom
  19.    GrandpaPhil reacted to a post in a topic: Cleaning, Dusting
  20.    EricWilliamMarshall reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Sphynx by TBlack - 1:64
  21. TBlack
    Be aware there are two kinds of Q-tips. The older ones where the central rod is made of some kind of pressed paper product and the newer ones where the rod is made of hollow plastic tubing. The latter will break apart if you exert any kind of pressure while the former will just bend. Using the plastic ones that constantly break is very frustrating! The picture shows the effect of Q-tips and water, sort of. Anyway, it made a big difference.
  22. TBlack
    Thanks, David. Alex's rigging plan is hard to follow. I suspect he thinks I already know the run of things. Lees is fine if you want to know how a particular line/stay is attached, but not so good for an overall picture (like how many eye bolts to attach to the deck). I've sent away for your volume on rigging the Swan class ship in hopes that it may help me with some of the detail (I've had considerable success with your previous publications). Tom
  23. TBlack
    Thanks, Druxey. I never really went away; I just haven't done much posting. I looked at Longridge and my reading is that these pendants just hang there until needed. Nothing is immediately attached to them? TB
  24. TBlack
    Been a while since I posted here (like 5 years!). Fast up-date: After putting the bulkheads in place (see first picture), I realized that the model would be too big for my son's house. So I put it aside and started all over again at a 1:96 scale which should produce a model about 2 feet long. That smaller scale prohibits my attempts at any small detail, but the finished product is a reasonable facsimile of a Sphynx class frigate. Anyway, I need help/advice. I'm working off of Alex Matvijets plans which I got through Chuck P. The rigging plan shows slings at the top of the fore, main and mizzen, and again at the top of the fore top and main top. James Lees says they are supposed to be there, but he never tells you what they are for. I know somebody here has the answer.
  25. TBlack
    Siol, In the upper right hand corner of the home page there is a box that says "search". Type in "constructo victory" and the other logs (entries) about your model show up. I didn't look at any any of them. But perhaps your question is answered in one of the logs. Tom
  26. TBlack
    I've got plenty of elastic bands, so that part should be easy. I also understand about the hold-down clamp. The buggers do have a way of trying to rise up. Using the mill does give you the micro-adjustment that I like,. I was impressed with your use of it to cut bulkhead slots for Altair. Another K.A. revelation! Tom
  27. TBlack
    Keith, a fabulous idea, and typical of your ingenuity. Thanks for sharing; I'm going to build me one! Tom
  28. TBlack
    Keith, You've been a wonderful inspiration and source of unique ideas for me, so I am intrigued with your "thickness sander". But I can't see how it works from the pictures that you've posted. I've been using a sanding drum in the drill press which sort of works, but maybe your idea is better? Tom
  29. TBlack
    I could only find one Canadian distributor in Ontario. Looks like internet/mail order is your only choice. TB
  30. TBlack
    Roger, Thought about that. But, too late, now it's mounted on the board.
  31. TBlack
    Andy! Lost track of you for a while. The last time we communicated you had helped me with a Great Lakes steamer I was building by pointing me toward a kit that could supply the hull. Thanks for the help. Got it done and lots of brownie points. I had to cut out the cargo area or the model would have been 7 feet long. Tom
  32. TBlack
    Great! Thanks Chris; got my patent this morning. You're in violation. As royalty. I'll take all the 1/32" pear you can crank out! Hugs, TB

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