gieb8688

Here are the final pictures of the Antje, KW49. It is a ship from the village Katwijk and I made the pictures also in Katwijk.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Today I finished the wooden deck. It was not easy and I made some mistakes but I am glad with my choice to make a real wooden deck. Later there will be stuff on the deck so it looks even better.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Some photo's of the paintshop. Painting is progressing very well but its a lot of work. Also some forgotten jobs to do. It was very hard to find out wich colours to use and where. I have only one hazy colourphoto made from a distance. But I think I have things clear now.
 
Kind Regards, Kees
 

 

 

I bought a nice looking prop but its much to shiny. I like to paint the ship like its in use so it needs a little weathering. And so does the propellor. In the past I tried to do this with paint but that didnt work out well. I remembered a proces from scienceclasses called electrolyse with an katode and an anode. How that works you can find on the internet but the pictures below show how I (mis) use it.
 
Here's what whe start with. A nice and shiny propellor.

 
First an conductive fluid wich means you dump some salt in warm water and give it a goed stir.

 
Then the power supply. I use one with 9V DC and little amps

 
Then separate the minus and the plus and connect them with the prop and a piece of metal with zinc on it. Try in wich order. If you have it right the prop will produce lots of small bubbles later.

 
Then place them in the water. Make sure the two pieces of metal do not touch eachother. I use some clips to clamp them to the pot.

 
When you do it wrong the zinc piece will produce bubbles

 
And when you do it right the prop will produce lots of bubbles

 
Then leave it for some 15  minutes but try to inspect the prop during the process. It will go fast and if you are satisfied with the result stop on time. Its good to rub the prop with a rag so you can see the endresult.

 
Looks nice allready

 
And the final result. Iam very satisfied with it. I admit its a little bit ghettostyle but it works to me.

 

Some little jobs had to be done on the Antje before I could give her a fine coat of primer
 
First I made some horizontal bar on the mast. It is a guard to prevent the net from swinging above the deck




Things for the ropes


Here we miss some parts








Overall picture


And a dryfit with the oakwood baseplate


paintspray


With a good coat of primer




Kind regards, Kees

After the KW49 Antje this will (most likely) be my next project. The KW88 Pelikaan a Dutch beamtrawler build in 1999. L: 42.4 meters. It will be in scale 1:75 the model will be +/- 22 inches
 

I've come a little further with the hull of the Antje. A solid hull, thats not wat I needed because the ship offcourse is hollow. To make a hollow hull I decided to go for vacuumforming. On the internet I searched for info and I made a vacuummachine. It didn't work in one try. The first time my vacuumboc imploded, the second time the styreen sheet came out of the frame but the tird try worked out well. I got a nicely shaped hollow hull. It is a little thin but I can solve that by gluing rinforcements on the inside or lay up some glasfibre. But the most important thing is, that I can go on now with the build!

YouTube  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FYttdMcivDc

I have been focused on the stern framing this week. Rather than box it in solidly I wanted to frame it like it might have been done. Since none of this actually survived on the wreck, this framing is conjecture. We know there were no cant frames in the stern so everything aft of the fashion frame are counter timbers. There are two gun ports out the stern which need framing.
I first worked up a method for framing which was straight forward. Given the speed which this ship was built, they did not go for complexity when simplicity would do. 

The first task was to design the sternmost deck beam. This beam is notched into both the fashion frame and the outermost counter timbers. I cut this with the camber the deck would have and used the top of this as the guide for mounting it to the ship. The inboard profile provided the height this beam should have on the centerline. Once this was established it was a simple process to use the gantry frame to align the beam and clamp it in place for glue up.

I started lofting the counter timbers using the inboard profile. Then once I had that I cut two counter timbers to mount either side of the sternpost deadwood. These provided the planes needed to cut the other timbers. Since the stern of the ship is flat I had to maintain the angle of the counter timbers above the main deck beam. Below the beam the angle would change allowing the timber to meet the fashion frame.

I notched each of these for the beam. This provided the two points the timbers were attached to the hull. They were also attached to each other with carlings which stiffened them and framed in the gun ports. I planned on having four sets of counter timbers. I waited to cut the last set until the other sets were installed on the stern since the outer timbers were rather complex angles and would require extensive shaping to the hull.

Below are the first three sets of counter timbers. Notice the upper arms of each are the same. The angles change at the notch allowing them to hit the frame.
 

 
I found the easiest method for installing the timbers was to use a spring clip to attach a flat beam across the upper stern. This gave me a third point for the timber to be clipped to when installing. The brass bar clamps recommended by Wayne have come in very handy here!
 

 
The carlings were all glued in then sanded down to the ship's stern planes once the glue was dry.
Lastly, I trimmed the ends of the deck beam and prepared the outer counter timbers. These were notched to fit over the end of the deck beam. I left these to dry over night.

In preparation for trimming the counter timbers, I printed out the stern elevation. I also made note of the height of the center below the handrail.
 
With the stern elevation and the height of the timber tops on centerline it was a snap to set the gantry at the appropriate height and mark the tops of the two center timbers. Then I carefully placed a cut out of the stern elevation across the timbers using the centerline and the top line as the guides.

 
By placing the top of the cutout on my previous marks, then aligning the bottom with the center of the keel, I traced the outline on the other timbers. Then it was a matter of cutting and sanding the stern to the profile.
Once this was done, I did some final cleanup of the glue squeeze outs, then drilled the holes for the pinning and glued the brass into them with heavy CA. I trimmed these off and sanded smooth. I did one final faring of the stern with the frames then wiped the entire assembly with mineral oil to remove all dust. I touched up the keel assembly with stain where needed.

Now I will move forward with the remaining half frames.

Here are photos of the stern as it sits in the gantry.
 
 
 

I shaped my first frame actually being installed in the ship today. I started with Frame 36 which is the aft most frame. Since it sits so high on the stern, and it is the fashion timber I decided to make it a full frame. This also aligns with the notches found on the ship since there were no notches for this frame in the deadwood. 
After gluing up the boards and gluing the frame template to the face, I used the bandsaw to cut near the lines. Then I used the Oscillating sander with varying diameters of sandpaper rolls to sand to the lines with the frame square to the table. This gave me the hard line I needed on the bottom forward and the top aft of the frame. Then it was a matter of sanding the bevel between the two.

After test fitting it to the keel I used the drill press to drill the pinning holes through it. I found putting a backing block at an angle in the vise below the drill allowed me to keep the drill square to the face of the frame. I could sight down the edge of the frame and make sure it was parallel to the drill. Then I glued the brass wire into the holes. Tomorrow I will sand the flush. 

I also printed a scale on an 8 ½ sheet of paper. This was a subset of the scale I used in the gantry. I glued this to a strip of cherry. This provides a quick check on the ship without having to convert from inches or MMs.
 
On a side note I found out that when working with Maple, it is important to have bandaids around if I am using an Xacto blade since I invariably end up pricking my fingers somewhere. Blood makes a mark on white maple!

Before I get into the keel assembly I should explain my sources of information. First, there is a 1984 PhD dissertation by Dr. Kevin Crisman found on the Texas A&M Underwater archeology Site. Great reading. This was expanded by Dr. Crisman in a book called "The Eagle, an American brig on Lake Champlain during the War of 1812" published in 1987. This was followed last year by a chapter on the Eagle in "Coffins of the Brave" also edited by Dr. Crisman. There is also a great practicum developed by Gene Bodnar on scratch building a version of the Eagle. These documents along with my CAD drawings and supplementary communications with Dr. Crisman on various aspects of the ship are the materials used in this build.
 
I have completed redoing the keel assembly. I went through all of Dr. Crisman's materials noting dimensions carefully. Where text differed from sketches, I followed dimensions explicitly called out in the text. A few things I found very interesting. First, as I followed the sizing between the various parts on the bow assembly it fell into place that the apron was shaped not only to support the cant frames but also to support the side planking leading to the rabbet. So the rabbet was wider here to allow for this. The assembly was also shaped. The top of the bow and the apron would be 18". The forward part of the cutwater would be 6" and the keel where it met the bow would be 8". This gradually increases to 12" before reversing at the deadwood. This solved some of the perplexing transition questions I had with both the bow and stern.
 
The stern has notches cut for the heels of the futtocks in the half frames. On the ship, these were a bit sloppy with the notches on one side of the keel deeper and wider than the other. This is more a factor of the speed at which they built the ship and shipwright skills. Dr. Crisman goes on to explain that the lower deadwood had a great deal of shaping done with great forethought. It starts out at 12" on the forward end and 8" on the stern (following the shape of the keel below the rabbet and 15" above. This change follows the rabbet as it rises towards the stern and would have provided a stable base for the garboard plank.
 
Since the frames will be white rock maple, I stained the cherry for contrast. Prior to staining it, I sanded it to 220, the burnished it with steel wool. I still have to add the fishplates. Note in the photos, the plan the ship is sitting on has my old framing numbers. As I worked through the various details called out in the materials, I found my numbering scheme was off. Frame X in the materials is actually a ½ thickness square frame. Once I made this change all the details mapped out by the materials aligned perfectly. I also changed the number of cant frames in the bow to 6 to following the materials.
 
 

Hi Gents,
 
Thanks for looking in gents and all your kind comments and remarks during this restoration.
 
This will be the final update on the restoration as she is now complete and has been taken down to the museum, I must say they are very pleased with her as am I.
 
The rigging was a bit of a mystery as there is no plan that I could find so it was a case of looking at as many photos and other builds of a similar ilk.
 
She came together very quickly in the end and before I realised it she was almost done and it really wasn't worth making two posts with what was left. I decided to carry on and finish her off.
 
There's no tech info to pass on so I will get straight into the pics and hope you enjoy them.
 
I wanted the sails to billow and so I soaked these ropes in white glue, the ruler is to add some tension and hold the sail out until the glue dries.

 
The main sail with some of the rigging, the Reg Number was put on using a Chinagraph pencil my Admiral uses in the garden, no bleed and it worked a treat I think.

 
A chain storage box was made up

 
The fittings have been placed in the hold

 
All the sails are now on and hopefully they look as if they are filled with air, I used a large fan and starch, sprayed the starch on in small amounts and let it dry by the fan, then add more starch and repeat until desired effect happens.

 
The Top Sail didn't take to well and proved a pointless task, it held for a while then dropped.

 
The Spritsails are clearly billowing

 
The shape of the Mainsail can be seen and it held it's shape.


 
And the final pic

 
So there we are, the finished boat. I have enjoyed doing this restoration as it has made a complete change in the subject which upto now has not been my thing, who knows where we go from here.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie

Stage 6 prepare insides and deck beams:
 
The first item I needed was to get a deck plan to allow layout of the deck structure.   There is a compromise between simply copying the 1/96 design and making it 1/48 to then  make it support radio sail.   I figured the best approach was to draw the plan by extending down all of the bulkhead lines. The aft edge of each bulkhead is the design line. [ my choice for a little sanity] 
I set up a new layer and then did a centerline and offset on either side for each of the dimensions for openings or lengths of beams.  I did this progressively for each beam and then hatch opening [ horizontal/ fore and aft beam]
By example I would go to station 6 and set the offset for the length of the beam.  For clarity I trimmed the line to the center side of the station 6 [ right side] and allowed the extensions outward [ to the left] to remain.  This created an intersection I then connected this  intersection with each similar in progression with a polyline to create the perimeter of the deck. I then drew a line snapping to the intersections of the extended bulkhead lines [ 6 in this example]  and the perimeter polyline.  By thickening it up the beams became easy to see. I then connected the horizontal beams for the hatch and house openings  
as a side note,
if you look in the hull cross section to the right in the photo of the drawing you can see the square frame extending up to make the bulkhead legs that attached each to the building board. this process kept the hull level in the side view you can see the photos of the Douglas Lee Plans 1/96 that were stretched to fit the bulkhead lines that were controlled as they were set up by offsets  
planning for radio. 
here I looked at the cabins and hatches and decided what I wanted to open for access.  I will lay that out on another layer later. Honestly I am figuring that out as I go.  I am ok with the basics just not sure if I need 2,3 or hopefully not 4 sail servos.  not for now . my selection is to open the aft cabin for rudder, power switch, connect to charge and receiver, then the aft hatch for batteries.  Then combine the center hatch and cabin for the main servos.  Finally the forward hatch will allow access to ties for the forward sheets. there is a water proof issue here so this is only an off water access. this plan resulted in moving several beams to accommodate the best access. beams
I chose to rip down poplar into 5/8 by 5/16 and the cut off a blank for each main beam.  the deck crown is 10 inches, so I used 1/4 inch = 12 inches and touched the high point with a sander.   looks like 10 inches from here  this means after taper each beam will be at least 3/8 deep at the edge and with the 5/16 width a nice surface for gluing down the 1/16 plywood under deck.   [another stage] I used the previous temporary bulk head supports [ removed during planking] for the fill in hatch beams and edge beams. note: in the Bertha Downs or the Cora Cressy details drawings as reference,  the deck to planking shear plank cross sections have a few different details pending location.  I also have to deal with the main deck that is 1 to 1.5 inch's lower between the main mast and the foremast.    My starting plan for water tightness is to have the under deck 1/16 plywood @ extend over the shear plank and be sanded back. it shall be attached to the beams and shear plank by epoxy. 
 
There is a problem with this boat's 1895 first of class , shall we say trial and error design that includes the extended poop deck.  This design is well described in the book A Shipyard in Maine. Its major flaw in the design for them was due to weakness.   For me the radio sailor [ optimistically at least]  what to do about little water coming over the rail and into the main deck area ? it is affectively a potential water tank !!!!!!     How do I try to make this area water proof.   
 
again  this is a proto type....Fortunately the future schooners I will make to not have this extended poop deck and the main deck is a bit higher. back to the process log
 
Deck plan usage:
I took the plan and printed it out in 4 each 11x17 sheets.  Laying on the top of the hull they actually fit, so I was happy. see photo Next I used them to collect each beam as I shaped it .see photo to do that I took my proxxon and set the angle to 3 deg and it nicely cut the "crown" bevel on each side. Dry fitting deck beams on board:
I needed to set up a bow sprit. it allowed extending my centerline by string as far as possible.  see photo  I know it needs to be square and it will be. I do not have a 5/8 square stock and thus substituted a dowel.  Stay tuned, and as soon as I get to the spars, it will be fixed! Glue up:
during the above work I continuously worked on preparing the insides. This involves water spray and scrape to remove all the paper from the stations on the remaining frames.  I had to sand with power drill drum or dremel small drum each frame back down to the 1/2 inch offset line to remain and below the mast steps.  The floor frames also will provide support to lower radio equipment deck to come. In fact they needed to be planned out and loose fit as the largest one could only go in before the beams. they are 1/8  luan plywood and one can be seen in the photos. another continuous part is to dry fit several beams as a batch.  then before I went crazy remembering so many pieces, glue up say 10 or so pieces.  then the remainder of the resin in each batch is used to progressively cover all of the inside planking.  this is done to reinforce the water base wood glue, fill gaps and further assure water tightness.  Also I experimented and used either small steel brads or preferred 14 gauge electrical copper wire as epoxy pegs for cross beams. there were 4 basic glue up batches to get all of the beams in place. it was tricky to find clamping especially for the main deck section between the Main mast and fore mast.  I fear I found some lost vocabulary as I struggled with gravity The rudder post.
as mentioned I need to redrill the rudder post hole roughly 1/8 to 3/16 aft of the existing hole.  so to prepare for this fix I took a dowel and epoxy glued it into the existing hole. [ a potential leak].  I need to first make the rudder, hide the brass shaft and then see where to drill the hole.
 
end of stage 6
 

These are the last pictures before painting with the airbrush. I special love the first picture because with all the parts on the table it really looks like a modelkit.

Modelkit. Anyone knows the brand? All the piece apart is very handy when you paint them. No masking needed.

 
Here al the parts together for a nice snapshot. Very proud of what I have accomplished. Started with some bits and pieces and now I have a complete ship.



 
Now on with the painting and maybe the next update I can show you some collours.

Regards, Kees

Small update this time from the paintshop. I painted the hull red with (I hope) the right red colour. Tomorrow I will mark the waterline and will paint the upper part of the hull.

The hammock nettings and the other bits and pieces are now finished. Here is how it all turned out.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
I have dry-fitted the ship's boats, and it is a very tight fit indeed. At this stage I am not sure just how to attach them permanently.

 

 
As you can see there is very little space.  The largest boat is a little higher than the other two which just gives enough room for the two smaller boats to fit under its sides.
 

 

 

 
 
Aside from putting together the carronades - I'll do that next weekend - I'm not sure what the next step will be.
 
 

The instructions called for me to line the entry ports in a real basic way and i could see myself throwing those instructions over my shoulder and diving head first into scratch building and so,,,
 
I built a pair of basic boxes that sit inside the hull,,see pic.
My entry port linings by mdkboggle, oMy entry port linings by mdkboggle, on Flickrn Flickr
 
and the i added panels and a lining that fitted to the outer hull along with the step sill.
 
DSC_0217 by mdkboggle, on Flickr
 
After this work had been done i then fitted the camber beams and when dry i added the upper gun deck.
Now the gun deck was a pain to fit because i had to plain a lot of wood off the edges and also re cut the bulkhead tabs in the deck.
before i glued the deck in place i dry fitted the 2 inner bulwark patterns to check that the gun ports would line up ok and to make sure everything fitted.
All was ok so i glued the deck in place with pva,fitted the masts to make sure all mast holes line up and then i re fitted but not glued the inner bulwarks back in place because these help hold the edge of the deck down due to the deck camber.
Fitting upper deck by mdkboggle, on Flickr
So,that is it,up to date and read to rock on with the next part of the build.
 
Thank you all for looking and bearing with me to this point.
I hope to post more pics as the build goes on but for now,if you have any questions on what has been done so far or on what is to come,,please ask,,all input is good input.
Thanks again and back soon.
Tim

DSC_0068 by mdkboggle, on Flickr
 
DSC_0199 by mdkboggle, on Flickr
 
Fitting upper deck by mdkboggle, on Flickr
 
Ok this is where the build is now but my next post will show what i am doing at the moment and that is the entry port and upper gun deck.
this final pic shows the masts in place (dry fit) while the upper gun deck glue sets,making sure that the mast holes are in line.
 
 

Hi Guys,
 
This is a first for me in that I have taken on the task of restoring a Harwich Bawley. The boat must be getting on for 20 - 30yrs + and it is not in the best of conditions.
 
A Harwich Bawley is a shrimp fishing boat built around the turn of the century, they were built in and around the Harwich area hence the name, this particular boat was built by Cann's of Harwich who are the same builders of my Thames Barge Edme. It is approximately 38ft long excluding the bowsprit with a beam of 14ft, there was a boiler in the hold which was used for cooking the shrimp so they where able to go to market directly from catching. The shrimp were caught by means of a beam trawl.
 
The Maritime Museum was contacted by a guy in Enfield nr London who was offering the boat for free and so off we went and picked it up.
 
When I got the boat home I found the sails were just falling apart, you only had to look at them and a tear appeared, also most of the rigging just parted mid run with the slightest of touches so a lot of the work was going to be the top half.
 
I have a few pictures.
 
The Sails, as you can see they are in a dreadful condition
 
 
 
 
Some other parts of the rigging
 
 
 
 
A little more
 
 
 
 
There are more but they will have to wait for now.
 
I'll post more very soon.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie
 
 
 
 

Just a quick update, the gunport linings of the port side have been completed, I've also primed the hull to show any imperfections needing attention before the dreaded copper plating, the port side has been given a first coat of yellow ochre and will be rubbed down before a top coat is applied.
 
Also as you all know i've bee working on the cannons.




 

Starboard gunports lined, stripes added..............Easter's approaching so I wont have much time for modelling, next update wont be for a while.
 
 




 
 
 

Hello fellow shipbuilders,
 
Thank you for all the comments and for the likes! Man, I like the like-button! Miss it so much on the Dutch forums. Sometimes you dont't know what to say but with the like-button you can always let te author know you appriciate his work and his postings.
Today I worked on the trawl gallows. These gallows are placed on starboardside of the deck and they hold a pulley/block trough wich the fishingline runs into the sea. You can imagine how enormous force is exercised on these gallows so they were made from heavy steel and were anchored directly on the ships construction.
 
On this photo you can see the rear gallow with the heavy pulley/block. On the front of the ship there is also a gallow. The nets had two fishingline so the nets stayed open and with the pulleys/blocks the nets were hauled in.

 
And here some photo's of the building. Each trawl gallows containes more than 50 parts plus all the parts that fell on the floor and became unfindable.














I hope you enjoy watching and reading my postings. I enjoy reading your topics and I am amazed by the skills you have. Thank you for everything
 
See you with the next update

Regards, Kees
 

Hello fellow shipbuilders. First I like to tell you I started a blog. Not to replace my activity on this marvelous forum but just to bundle all my building-photo's etc on one place. the blog can be found on http://www.modelfishingships.blogspot.com Please bookmark and share!
 
Now on with the build.
 
I needed new primer and so I went to my local diy-shop where they sell my favourite brand but when I got there... not my primer on the shelf! Bummer... but there was another brand wich promissed to be a very good primer for plastics. When I tested it on a piece of plastic it was ok but when I primed my model this was what came out of it.
 


I was so mad!!!! The wheelhouse was a total mess and ready for the garbagecan. All those hours of work....

After crying a bit I managed to remove the ****** paint and now she is nice and shiny in a new coat of primer again. Tomorrow I am going to destroy the faulty can of primer. Dont know how yet but I will find a way.

Civil War Ironclad, USS St. Louis -  !:24
Sequence of Assembly for USS St. Louis Model Rev C
 
Notes:
Rev A: This revision modifies Steps 5 thru 13 to permit direct use of the NPS plans to locate the structural elements yet allows installation of tempered hardboard sheets to add longitudinal stiffness to the lower hull structure.
Rev B: This revision adds Steps 14 thru 18 with details for constructing and installing the hurricane deck as a removable sub-assembly.
Rev 😄 This revision adds refinements to the sequence of assembly which were developed during model construction thus far.
1. Make a copy of sheets 3 & 4 of the "USS Cairo" National Park's Service plans at 1:24 scale and secure them to a sheet of 1/8 inch thick tempered hardboard.
 
2. Fabricate the three keels with scarf joints necessary to achieve about 4" longer than plan apparent length. Secure them directly on sheets 3 & 4 of the NPS hull floor plans with several 1/8" wood screws. (The keels will be trimmed to their final lengths in Steps 6 thru 9.
 
3. Fabricate all full and half frames up to the gun deck level chines using the three assembly jigs, locate them to the plans using small try-squares, and secure them to the keels with "Titebond III" wood glue and .052" diameter treenails in .055" holes. Place temporary wood support strips, which are the same thickness as the keels, under the lower frame floors at their outboard edges. (Do not glue or treenail the frames to these strips) Make a dozen or more wooden combs about 9" long by 1" wide by .25" thick which are dadoed to the "room and space" dimensions of the lower hull framing. Use these combs to temporarily locate and support the outboard ends of the frames as they are being secured to the keels. This is especially important for the aft half frames at the paddle wheel opening since they are only attached to one keel at this juncture. (By overlapping these 9" combs most of the hull structure can be made very rigid in preparation for installing the keelsons, deck clamps and other longitudinal structural members.)
 
4. Make the five keelsons & port and starboard gun deck clamps and secure them to all frames.
 
5. Attach about 6 temporary spreader beams, especially at the stern where the hull is split into two booms between the port & starboard gun deck clamps to maintain the lower hull shape.
 
6. Invert the partially completed hull structure and support it on jig locators to the inside of the hull floor timbers.
 
7. Make two longitudinal strips of 1/8-inch tempered hardboard approximately 4.5 inches wide which will fit snugly between the 3 keels and secure them to the lower surface of the frames with glue and treenails.
 
8. Add the cant frames, bevel the frames of the bow and stern to achieve a faired surface on the lower chine and install one or two rows of planking along the lower edge of the chine.
 
9. Make two additional strips of 1/8-inch tempered hardboard which abut the outer edges of the port and starboard keels and trim them to the outer surface of the lower chine planking. Secure them to the frames with glue and treenails.
 
10. Return the model to its upright position and install portions of ceiling, floor planking and longitudinal stanchions.
 
11. Frame and plank the waterway leading to the paddlewheel.
 
12. Add hull mounting provisions for the engines, paddlewheel and other machinery.
 
13. Add selected portions of the gun deck beams and planking which provide support for the armament while maintaining desired visibility to lower portions of the hull.
 
14. Based on further research of contemporary Civil War photographs we are convinced that unlike the flat decks shown on the NPS "USS Cairo" plans, the hurricane deck actually has a significant round-up (camber) of about 6.5-inches or .27-inches & a 15-foot arc at the 1:24 scale of our model. For accuracy this deck will be fabricated as a sub-assembly directly upon sheets 7 & 8 of the NPS plans and subsequently located over the lower hull structure and attached via the upper casement frames with removable pins thereby providing good internal hull access throughout the remaining model construction. The lower surfaces of the deck beams will remain flat since the distance between the gun deck planking and hurricane deck beams is over 7-feet and therefore an additional 6.5-inches on centerline would have been an unnecessary expense.
 
15. Make the 43 hurricane deck beams (carlines) from hard maple stock with identical the round-up (camber) formed into their upper surfaces using a special sanding fixture for the 15-foot radius mounted on a 4-inch table equipped vertical belt sander.
 
16. Construct the hurricane deck consisting of the port and starboard carline clamps (deck clamps), deck beams, and additional longitudinal framing members for the stacks, skylight, and wheelhouse. The present plan is to apply deck planking to at least one side (port or starboard) and additional selected planking to be determined later.
 
17. Locate the hurricane deck sub-assembly above the lower hull assembly on temporary supports or internal hull bulkheads while installing upper casement frames which are permanently fixed to the chine knuckles and pinned to the hurricane deck beams.
 
18. Frame in the gun ports and apply selected exterior planking to the upper casements. Temporarily un-pin and remove the hurricane deck to provide access for installing selected upper casement ceiling.
 
19. With the hurricane deck removed, continue with installation of the bulkheads and partitions around the wheelhouse, cabins and boilers and any other features on the gun deck.











Method used to Construct the Lower Hull Frames (Rev A).doc
Snap26.bmp
Snap27.bmp
Snap28.bmp
Snap29.bmp







Jig #3 Set-Up and Procedure for Use 26 Mar 2015.doc
Method used to Construct the Lower Hull Frames (Rev A).doc
Snap1.bmp
Snap2.bmp
Snap3.bmp
Snap5.bmp
Snap6.bmp
Snap7.bmp