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bogeygolpher

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Everything posted by bogeygolpher

  1. The golf courses in North Carolina are considered essential businesses, according to the Governor, so they are open. Of course there are a bunch of new distancing rules in place at my course, including one player per riding cart. Allan, you have provided me with yet another option, thank you. Hit them straight and far. Building this kit is a one time endeavor for me, I don't belong working in this scale with my tired old eyes. I was so excited to find the kit I did not pay attention to the scale, lesson learned. Paul
  2. I am going to try using 1 mm beads as suggested by Henry. My wife has a large assortment of beads and findings that I was unaware of. If that doesn't work I will use a dollop of glue as suggested by Chris. Thanks to everyone for your input. Paul
  3. I am building a paper model of the USCG Eagle scale 1:250 and want to purchase wooden blocks for the rigging but have no idea what size to buy. The smallest I have seen advertised is 2mm long, would that look okay? Any suggestions are welcome.
  4. Hobby acrylics (no specific brand) from Walmart. Keep mixing colors until you get a match you are happy with. If I remember correctly the maroon color is the only one that needs to be matched.
  5. This is what I used. I placed supports under the top rail where necessary to make sure the keel was level with the work surface. I determined where the water line was by taking measurements off the plans. I marked that spot on the hull then transferred the mark to the cup in situ and drove the pencil through the cup and ran it around the hull. Because you are printing three colors on the hull I suggest you estimate where the middle of the Black will be then paint the yellow and white close to that line. Then using whatever means you choose, mark the actual upper and lower lines for the black section. Mask over the yellow paint to where the upper black line is and the white to where the lower black line is. Now using clear lacquer apply a thin coat to the edges of the masking tape where the black paint will be. This seals the edge and ensures no paint will get under the masking tape. Now paint the black portion and before the paint dries completely, carefully remove the masking tape. You should now have nice crisp lines on the hull.
  6. The details are wonderful, they bring the boat to life. Superb!
  7. I have just looked at your build of the Marina II.  What an excellent job you did on this model.  I am just starting it and your build log is a wonderful reference for me.  Thank you for the build log.

     

    Further, I want to try to replicate your stand.  Could you tell me what material you used and the size of the stock you used?

     

    Thank you in advance.

  8. Messis, I completely agree with wefalks engineering point. However, keep in mind this model, in all probability, is going to be static and certainly not subjected to the same strains and stresses of a working ship. If you are building this on commission for display in a museum then you need to make it as accurate as possible and spare no expenses. If you are building it to display in your living room who, other than you, will know if any part is completely accurate? Either way, this is a model and it is in fact a representation and also because of scale it is nearly impossible to construct it exactly the same as a real ship would be built. In the end, this is your ship and your build. I suggest you do what you feel comfortable with. Try to enjoy the hobby and don't let it overwhelm you.
  9. If you are unsure about the CA holding the blocks in place use 5 minute epoxy instead. Once cured the mast would break before the block would come loose. However, as I said previously I have built 7 ships and have not had a block secured with thick CA come loose. I have had the brass wire break because I had wound it too tight. The photo gives me the impression that this is a metal mast which probably meant the blocks were somehow bolted on to the mast in real life. Very difficult to simulate in scale and there probably would have been no wrapping involved.
  10. Christos, It is indeed my pleasure to be able to pass on the lessons I have learned from members of this site as well as those based on my personal experience. Enjoy the hobby. Happy Holidays to you.
  11. I drilled holes in the mast as well as on the chainplates that allowed little or no slop room ( I wanted to force the twisted brass wire into the holes). After trimming the wire, I filled the holes with thick CA then positioned the blocks in them and allowed the CA to dry for 24 hours. I never had one detach later.
  12. Another alternative is to use either auto pin striping tape or tapes available from chartpak in the width you want. I used chartpak tape for the waterline on the Bluenose II that I built 35 years ago and it still looks as good as the day it was put on. I used clear lacquer to coat the tape once installed. As is typical, I responded half way through a thought and assumed you would know where I was. Let me make myself clear on this. I did not paint a waterline, I used tape instead of paint for the waterline.
  13. A very nice model 1:24 scale about 15" long. Do not attempt this kit unless you are comfortable doing a lot of painting. Every single piece of this model has to be painted and some painted two or three times. Other than that, a relatively easy build. Paul
  14. In support of Dan's answer. My son made a 12 hour driving trip from North Carolina to New Jersey with 2 ship models in the back of a Mustang. One was on the back seat secured by seatbelts and the other was on the back seat floor surrounded by pillows all around to prevent any movement. Some other important points. The models were secured to stands with screws into the hulls. Further, the stands were also secured to the bases of their display cases with screws. There was absolutely no damage at all. Paul
  15. I think your CA might be old (it will go bad) or you are putting too much into the joint, or the temperature was too cold. Less is more when using CA. I have put CA on the tips of every plank I have ever installed installed using PVA everywhere else on the plank with great success and not had to use any pins (nails) or clamps. Of course I did over bend the planks as well as use the electric plank bender directly on the joint to set the glue faster. Enjoy, it is always a learning experience. Paul
  16. Your rigging will secure it in place.
  17. From "Ship Modeling Simplified" by Frank Mastini, page 77, "Before we step the masts. we'll attach all the necessary rigging". That is exactly what I have done for the 9 ships I have built and cannot imagine doing it any other way. I tie the blocks and lines onto the yards, then put the yards onto the masts and install as many lines as are possible, labeling them and letting them hang loose. Agreed, it looks a mess when the masts are finally stepped however I am convinced it is a lot easier to do as much as is possible off the ship rather than after the masts are in place. Paul
  18. Try this on EBAY http://www.ebay.com/itm/Center-Finder-No-800-2875-Robert-Larson-/152051780497
  19. In my humble opinion, if you are going to call it a wooden ship model, those elements that would be made of wood on a real ship, should be made of wood. Non wood ship elements, I'm not sure it really makes any difference unless you're building it for a museum. Paul
  20. I do exactly what Dave described using only CA and do not recall ever having an eyebolt come loose.
  21. For future reference. I have successfully used Chartpak tape 1/16 wide for water lines on past builds. You can get the tape in art or office supply stores as well as on-line in different colors and widths. You can also use automotive pin stripe tape available in most major auto parts stores. After applying the tape I covered it with clear matte acrylic poly to protect it and insure it would not peel off in the future. Just to clarify, I did not paint a water line. The tape becomes the waterline.
  22. One Suggestion. 1. Find a piece of square stock the correct size. 2. Cut the mast where the square section should be. 3. Drill holes about 1/2" deep into the center of both the square stock and the mast. 4. Insert a tight fitting dowel into the holes in both the square stock and the mast and glue it all together. I never tried it, but it seems as if it would work. I agree with you, squaring the round dowel can be a challenge to keep it uniform and straight.

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