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bogeygolpher

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  • Gender
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  • Location
    Southport, North Carolina USA

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  1. The golf courses in North Carolina are considered essential businesses, according to the Governor, so they are open. Of course there are a bunch of new distancing rules in place at my course, including one player per riding cart. Allan, you have provided me with yet another option, thank you. Hit them straight and far. Building this kit is a one time endeavor for me, I don't belong working in this scale with my tired old eyes. I was so excited to find the kit I did not pay attention to the scale, lesson learned. Paul
  2. I am going to try using 1 mm beads as suggested by Henry. My wife has a large assortment of beads and findings that I was unaware of. If that doesn't work I will use a dollop of glue as suggested by Chris. Thanks to everyone for your input. Paul
  3. I am building a paper model of the USCG Eagle scale 1:250 and want to purchase wooden blocks for the rigging but have no idea what size to buy. The smallest I have seen advertised is 2mm long, would that look okay? Any suggestions are welcome.
  4. Is it possible to move the "Mark Site Read" button to the fly out under the login name? It would be more convenient if I could mark the site read and logout from the same area on the page. The "Mark Site Read" button is at the end of the page. After clicking it I then have to go to the top of the page in order to log out. Further, a "Go to the Top" button would be nice at the bottom of the page. Paul
  5. Hobby acrylics (no specific brand) from Walmart. Keep mixing colors until you get a match you are happy with. If I remember correctly the maroon color is the only one that needs to be matched.
  6. This is what I used. I placed supports under the top rail where necessary to make sure the keel was level with the work surface. I determined where the water line was by taking measurements off the plans. I marked that spot on the hull then transferred the mark to the cup in situ and drove the pencil through the cup and ran it around the hull. Because you are printing three colors on the hull I suggest you estimate where the middle of the Black will be then paint the yellow and white close to that line. Then using whatever means you choose, mark the actual upper and lower lines for the black section. Mask over the yellow paint to where the upper black line is and the white to where the lower black line is. Now using clear lacquer apply a thin coat to the edges of the masking tape where the black paint will be. This seals the edge and ensures no paint will get under the masking tape. Now paint the black portion and before the paint dries completely, carefully remove the masking tape. You should now have nice crisp lines on the hull.
  7. The details are wonderful, they bring the boat to life. Superb!
  8. Whatever that techno babble means, Thank you. FYI This just showed up 2 days ago. My bookmark has not changed in a stones age. www.modelshipworld.com/phpBB2/portal.php Does it need to be changed? Paul
  9. When I go to the MSW web site, the attached is the first thing I see. I have no problems logging in or going anywhere in the site. Paul
  10. I have just looked at your build of the Marina II.  What an excellent job you did on this model.  I am just starting it and your build log is a wonderful reference for me.  Thank you for the build log.

     

    Further, I want to try to replicate your stand.  Could you tell me what material you used and the size of the stock you used?

     

    Thank you in advance.

  11. Messis, I completely agree with wefalks engineering point. However, keep in mind this model, in all probability, is going to be static and certainly not subjected to the same strains and stresses of a working ship. If you are building this on commission for display in a museum then you need to make it as accurate as possible and spare no expenses. If you are building it to display in your living room who, other than you, will know if any part is completely accurate? Either way, this is a model and it is in fact a representation and also because of scale it is nearly impossible to construct it exactly the same as a real ship would be built. In the end, this is your ship and your build. I suggest you do what you feel comfortable with. Try to enjoy the hobby and don't let it overwhelm you.
  12. If you are unsure about the CA holding the blocks in place use 5 minute epoxy instead. Once cured the mast would break before the block would come loose. However, as I said previously I have built 7 ships and have not had a block secured with thick CA come loose. I have had the brass wire break because I had wound it too tight. The photo gives me the impression that this is a metal mast which probably meant the blocks were somehow bolted on to the mast in real life. Very difficult to simulate in scale and there probably would have been no wrapping involved.
  13. Christos, It is indeed my pleasure to be able to pass on the lessons I have learned from members of this site as well as those based on my personal experience. Enjoy the hobby. Happy Holidays to you.
  14. I drilled holes in the mast as well as on the chainplates that allowed little or no slop room ( I wanted to force the twisted brass wire into the holes). After trimming the wire, I filled the holes with thick CA then positioned the blocks in them and allowed the CA to dry for 24 hours. I never had one detach later.
  15. I found the answer to my problem in the sticky about activity streams by Chuck. When I performed a search for this information I came up blank, probably another user error. Paul

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