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bogeygolpher

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Everything posted by bogeygolpher

  1. Try this on EBAY http://www.ebay.com/itm/Center-Finder-No-800-2875-Robert-Larson-/152051780497
  2. In my humble opinion, if you are going to call it a wooden ship model, those elements that would be made of wood on a real ship, should be made of wood. Non wood ship elements, I'm not sure it really makes any difference unless you're building it for a museum. Paul
  3. I do exactly what Dave described using only CA and do not recall ever having an eyebolt come loose.
  4. For future reference. I have successfully used Chartpak tape 1/16 wide for water lines on past builds. You can get the tape in art or office supply stores as well as on-line in different colors and widths. You can also use automotive pin stripe tape available in most major auto parts stores. After applying the tape I covered it with clear matte acrylic poly to protect it and insure it would not peel off in the future. Just to clarify, I did not paint a water line. The tape becomes the waterline.
  5. One Suggestion. 1. Find a piece of square stock the correct size. 2. Cut the mast where the square section should be. 3. Drill holes about 1/2" deep into the center of both the square stock and the mast. 4. Insert a tight fitting dowel into the holes in both the square stock and the mast and glue it all together. I never tried it, but it seems as if it would work. I agree with you, squaring the round dowel can be a challenge to keep it uniform and straight.
  6. Great advice not only for displaying large models, but for any model. Try to determine how and where it will be displayed as soon as possible. Because of space restrictions I usually try to limit the size of my models to less than 30". I'm comfortable building that size with the space it will take during construction as well a space it will take when completed in a case. After trying to drill mounting holes into the keels of my first two models after they were finished I determined there had to be a better way. Since then I have made an effort in the very beginning of my builds to decide how the models will be displayed. In most cases I have beefed up the keel where I intend to place mounting screws before applying any hull planking. In more than once instance I placed threaded inserts there and on others I merely drilled vertical pilot holes. This is so easy to do using my drill press. In the long term life is so much easier knowing you have a rigid means to attach your completed model to whatever motif you determine best suits your completed model. Further, the mounting fasteners are very useful stabilizing the model throughout the build. If it turns out the mounting holes are not needed for the final display option, they are usually pretty easy to cover up as they are on the underside of the keel and not usually seen.
  7. Michael101, You are doing an excellent job on your ship. Keep up the good work.
  8. I prefer to use Aleene's Original Tacky Glue. I find it has less moisture content than my Elmer's Wood Glue. I also use limited amounts of Super glue when necessary. No matter what glue you are using, experience has shown me that less is more, use the glue sparingly.
  9. I rely on gel stains which do not require any pre-stain conditioner. I actually thought that pre-conditioners do the exact opposite of what you suggest in that they close the pores to allow an even distribution of the stain in the wood. I suppose flooding the wood with water as you do would have a similar effect.
  10. I agree with both replies. I personally use Elmers wood filler as well as DAP spackling compound, I have also used Bondo putty from the automotive store. One note on using filler you make with PVA and sawdust. If you intend to stain the area you will not get very good results. When dried, the PVA will prevent the stain from being absorbed into the wood fibers resulting in a blotchy finish. However, you said you do not intend to do that so there should be no problems.
  11. I believe I have found a solution to this problem. I carefully took the mass of line and formed it into a large circle trying not to pull tight on any loose pieces. I placed that wad of line loosely over a toilet paper tube and determined which end was on the outside of the wad. I carefully unwound the line, trying not to tug, from the toilet paper roll while my wife wrapped it tightly around another piece of cardboard. It took only a few minutes to get the line onto the piece of cardboard, you can use any type of spool large enough to hold the line. Now I can unwind it as needed without any snarls or knots.
  12. I'm with Rick (rshousha). Absolutely no sense of loss. As soon as I have completed a model it is out the door as quickly as possible. I'm sick and tired of seeing and working on it by then and it is time to move on to something new To that end, I sometimes will find myself building at a much faster rate when getting close to the finishing point. I am afraid to start something else until after what I am working on is completed because I fear I may never go back to finish it. I rely on the building experience to keep my mind sharp and to maintain my physical dexterity, not to decorate my house. If I get nostalgic for something I have built I have lots of photos I can look at. That has not happened yet.
  13. It would seem that you could use acetone to thin CA. I use acetone to remove excess CA as well as for getting it off of my fingers. I have never tried it, but have read that card/paper modelers use thinned CA to treat edges prior to sanding. After some further research I have found that using acetone will thin the CA but it will also decrease it's strength. It is best to purchase manufactured thin CA in order to retain it's holding power. Further, as has been suggested, if your CA becomes thick, add some fresh CA to thin it. I actually avoid using CA unless it is absolutely necessary and then I primarily use it in place of a clamp when I cannot get a clamp in place.
  14. I agree with Antony 100%. Your battleship will not be very stealthy out in the ocean if you have lots of reflective surfaces.
  15. I use carpenters glue (PVA). To keep the plank in place while the glue dries, I place a very small drop (about the size of a pin) of Super Glue (CA) on each end before placing the plank on the deck. I then rub my electric plank bender over the plank a few times to heat up the plank and accelerate the drying of the PVA. It's the same technique I use for planking the hull.
  16. Whichever tool you select, I suggest you get one that is NOT battery operated. The re-chargeable Dremel I was given for Christmas was just about useless. It lacked torque and the charge went away very quickly. Although it was given to me to replace my 20 year old Dremel that finally bit the dust, I got so frustrated using it I bought a new plug-in model. I got the cheapest model and use my soldering iron rheostat to control the speed. Any of these tools will become invaluable for your modeling as well as for use around the house.
  17. I successfully used chart pack tape, available in hobby, craft, artist, and office supply stores, over 25 years ago to put the waterline on my Bluenose II. It comes in lots of colors and widths as small as 1/64, just search "chartpak tape" for sources. I did cover it with clear matte varnish, as well as the rest of the hull, and it has not come loose. I think It is considerably easier to apply than trying to paint a stripe.
  18. I have been using my electric plank bender for over 20 years and would be lost without it. I did buy a solid state soldering iron control unit to be able to adjust the temperature. Over time i have accumulated a number of forms I use to control the shape and I have also managed to burn myself a number of times. Not only do I use it for bending, it is quite useful as an aid for setting the PVA glue quicker. For example, when planking, I will use soak the plank and use the bender and forms to approximate the shape I want. I then coat the back of the plank with PVA as well as place some drops of CA on the frames or bulkheads where the plank will reside. Using the CA eliminates needing clamps or nails to hold it in place. Once the plank is in place I then run the bender over it to heat up the plank and speed up the drying of the PVA and getting a good seam with the plank already in place. Using that method there is no wait time between applying planks and if done carefully, it helps to eliminate a lot of the bulges and dips that seem to occur between planks.
  19. Do what Dave said. I go one step further and use a gel stain which does not really get absorbed into the wood as much as a liquid stain. Almost like putting a layer of paint on and it is much easier to control.
  20. HOF, You might want to try to go through the shrouds rather than going around and trying to tie a knot. Let me explain. In one of the many model ship building books I have read I do remember one of the authors making two points about ratlines. First is that you should use the smallest diameter thread you can find for them and second was that no matter what size thread you use, or what type of knots you tie, your knots will be way too large for scale. To address the knot issue he suggests you use a needle and sew the the ratline through the center of the shroud, gluing them in place. In other words, do not make any knots. I did try this once a long time ago and it looked good. However, it was not easy to get the needle into the center of the shroud. Maybe magnifiers, or better eyes would have helped. I think it is easier to tie knots, but if that is proving to be impossible, you might try to sew through the shrouds. Another alternative is to run the ratlines over or under the the shrouds and gluing them in place rather than tying them. Most craft stores have glues made specifically for gluing fabric that should work well.
  21. Mike, You get significantly more strength by laminating wood in a cross grain fashion than by using a single piece. Mark, I would allow at least 24 hours for the glue to dry. Probably longer because the glass will not allow for good air circulation to promote drying. Why not use contact cement. If the wood is not absolutely flat to start with you will need to clamp it, otherwise a j-roller will probably suffice. Apply contact cement on both sides, allow to dry, place toothpicks or a few layers of paper strips on one of the glued surfaces, place the other side on top (glue side down) and align the pieces. Start on one end and remove the toothpicks or paper one at a time keeping the pieces aligned while allowing the surfaces to contact each other and bond. Use a J-roller to force any air out from the joint. It's worked for me doing marquetry. Don't forget, lots of ventilation.
  22. I have done it both ways and found it much easier to shape the plank for the entire length. As was also pointed out, the width of the planks supplied in kits is not very consistent and when applying subsequent rows of planks cut to scale length it required constant adjustment in order to get a smooth line without gaps. I agree with Chuck, score the planks to scale to simulate the length.
  23. Great answers. I have used both wooden dowels and brass rods with similar results. I definitely suggest you use epoxy as the adhesive, CA did not hold well when the joints were stressed. You can drill into the top rail from the bottom up, not breaking through the upper surface, and be left with a blind joint, no visible hole. You will also face this issue when attaching any pin rails in that you will probably want to reinforce them for the same reasons.
  24. I would suggest there are probably a number of hardwood lumber suppliers in the DC, VA, MD area (Google search) that in all probability also carry different sizes and types of quality plywood that you could pick up and take home. Also, look for marine supplies. Those types of services were available when I lived there 20 years ago.
  25. If you are concerned about the strength of a pear keel, try making a replacement from a new, flat sheet of plywood using your scroll saw. It would certainly be a lot cheaper.

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