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Everything posted by bogeygolpher

  1. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to bend cast metal parts? Whenever I have tried in the past to either bend them or straighten them I managed to break them and then had to make substitutes, usually out of wood because I am much more comfortable working with wood than metal. I hope I am using the correct terminology when I say cast metal. I am referring to the white metal parts supplied in most kits that usually have a little bit of flashing on them and are quite brittle. Thanks in advance.
  2. I agree that normal seizing is really an issue in scale. I use a common pin to make the loops and merely tie the rope/thread secured with a touch of CA to hold it. Away from the block wrap a piece of thread around a common pin, tie it and place a spot of glue on the knot then remove the pin. Run the ends of the thread down each side of the block and secure the thread to the block on the sides using CA. At the end of the block wrap both ends around a common pin, tie the ends pulling the common pin to the end of the block, and secure with a spot of CA then remove the pin and trim the exce
  3. I did a google search on "Narrow Masking Tape" and this is one of many that showed up http://www.craft-products.com/proddetail.asp?prod=JDT001 I have used Chart Pack Tapes for both masking and water lines. Much easier than trying to paint a very thin water line. Apply the tape then cover with a clear fixative.
  4. I have never considered it. All of my ships are double planked and I figure that after applying two layers of planking using PVA it is highly unlikely that anything is going to move. I also try to make sure that the second layer of planking staggers over the seams in the first layer. I build kits and after gluing the bulkheads in place the next thing I do is install the deck to ensure the keel remains straight and rigid while planking. Doing that makes it almost impossible to put any coating on the inside of the hull once the first planking has been completed. My first ship was bui
  5. Chuck, Certainly not expensive, and the base (board) the ship is setting on was also used for the planking. I actually found it easier to do the planking with the ship in this position. There are dowels placed into the base jig that fit into the mast holes in the deck to hold the ship in place. I also used wedges of scrap wood glued to the base jig to level the ship all around. Without any difficulty I could take the ship off of the base jig and put it back on as needed. It worked very well but I have to admit that standing on my head for extended periods was a bit tedious..
  6. The problem, as you are fully aware, is the glue gets down into the grain of the wood. Once the pores of the wood are clogged with glue, the stain will not be able to penetrate it. You might get lucky and be able to get it off with sanding or using steel wool but if it really sunk into the wood you will have to resort to other methods. You may be able to get rid of it using nail polish remover for the CA or water for PVA. I use a Q-tip or cotton ball and apply a little at a time. Dab it on and let it sit for a little bit, then try to remove the glue with a dry Q-tip or cotton ball. You
  7. One more thought. If you are reluctant to leave the chart tape in place, you may want to use it as a guide for applying masking tape for painting. Sounds confusing but it is not. Place the 1/16" chart tape exactly where the waterline is supposed to be. Place masking tape on each side of the chart tape. Remove the chart tape and you are left with a 1/16" wide space with masking tape on each side ready for painting using the suggested techniques to ensure the tape is sealed at the edges. Don't let Cruiser know where I live, I have enough trouble with my golf game and the alligators
  8. Jan, Another alternative to painting a stripe for the waterline is to use Chart tape which is available in a variety of widths and colors. I used the white 1/16" on my Bluenose II which i finished in the late 80's and it has never yellowed nor come loose. I did cover the entire hull with clear acrylic matte paint once it was completed. You can find chart tapes in stationary stores (Office Depot), craft stores, as well as on-line. I have no affiliation with the company.
  9. Absolutely no problem. For most of us building ship models required learning an entirely new set of terms. Welcome to the club.
  10. The problem with this thread from the outset is that the title says "Bulwarks" yet the discussion seems to be about "bulkheads". 2 entirely different issues as I see it. Most Bulwarks do indeed bend to follow the shape of the deck in my experience. Therefore, whatever material is used needs to be able to bent. The opposite is true for bulkheads. You usually do not want that material bending, meaning plywood is a very good choice.
  11. Gene's article covers all the methods I have seen used. Even when he inks the lines, note that he usually does it on an overlay, then glues that on the original deck. In all probability you will end up purchasing some additional lumber regardless of which method you choose. Good luck.
  12. The clouded/frosted issue could be just one of the problems associated with using CA. CA has to be used sparingly (less is more), If used in excess it will leave you with the white cloudy/frosted problem. There are numerous references to this problem here in MSW. After trying to scrape the white away, without much success, I finally used de-bonder and took the joint apart, sanded it and started over using a small amount of CA (I applied it using a sewing needle) and it turned out just fine. As Brian C said, you need to remove the varnish where you intend to put glue, especially if
  13. Thank you for developing this series. After having built 8 wooden ships I was looking for something different and started building card models last year and thoroughly enjoy it. The engineering and levels of detail are amazing. Further, being able to download files and print them at home is very convenient as well as providing a great means to correct errors. Make a mistake, re-print the part and start over. It was a task to find out information about techniques as well as materials. It will be nice to have that information available in one place. I look forward to your series. I we
  14. Richard, Sorry, my answer was completely out of line. You are asking about bulkheads and I'm thinking bulwarks. DUH! Indeed, you do want to use plywood for the bulkheads as was said because there is less chance of warping and because of multi-grain direction the plywood is much stronger. Most of the kits I have built used plywood for the middle part of the bulwarks and it was necessary to bend them to follow the contour of the ship. That is the basis for my incorrect answer. I'm getting close to where I will soon be able to hide my own Easter eggs.
  15. Both very good answers. A disadvantage is that it tends to be difficult to bend. Soaking and steaming for bending causes the layers to de-laminate unless you are using outdoor grade plywood.. I have used basswood to make bulkheads by using thin pieces and laminating them together using a mold I built from scrap wood to achieve the desired curve.
  16. One final thought. Regardless of what you use to fill the areas, make sure you mask the surrounding area unless you intend to paint the surface. It really doeas not matter what you use for filler it needs to be confined to only the spot being filled. The filler material will get into the pores of the surrounding wood and you will have tremendous difficulty applying a uniform stain. Sanding will not help because the material will be in imbedded into the grain. If it cannot be prevented, I have found that using a gel stain will produce the best results. Gels do not absorb like liquids a
  17. My wife gave me this and I have been using it for years. She had it in her sewing kit. Just run the line through one of the slots. Available in the sewing section. About $1
  18. I use a Solid State Solder Iron Control to manage the speed of my Dremel 100.
  19. This is about as cheap as you can get. You can use it with the model upside down or right side up.
  20. I retired in 1995 as the Chief of the Logistic Systems Integration Division, Hq USAF/LGXI, the Pentagon. We were tasked with developing policies, plans, and programs for the integration of the different Air Force logistics computer systems in use throughout the world. I was a uniformed member of the Air Force for four years and continued to work for the Air Force for another 30 years as a civilian employee. Now I build ship models, play golf, and occasionally build furniture.
  21. The problem is that the glue gets into the pores of the wood and that prevents the stain from penetrating. I have had limited succes in small areas by masking the area to keep the sawdust/glue confined to the place that needs the repair. Further, I have found that gel stains give a better result if using either sawdust/glue or filler. The gels tend to stay on top rather than be absorbed like liquid stains and act much the same as paint..
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