captainbob

I wasn't sure so I went out and cut a curve.  If you are cutting a convex curve you can rotate the material very close to the cutting edge of the blade and by cutting off a little at a time, make very small discs.  The problem is with the concave curve where the thickness of the blade and the width of the blade causes binding as you cut the curve.  The tightest I could cut with my 3/8" blade was a 1 3/8" (35mm) radius or a 2 3/4" (70mm) inside diameter.  
 
The boat I am making now is 30 feet long.  At 1:48 scale the beam is 2 1/2".  For this the scroll saw is what I used.
 
Bob

How to seal a flat deck is always a problem.  I like your solution.
 
Bob

That's beautiful.  Both the line drawings and the poats.
 
Bob

I love the cutters and this one looks interesting.
 
Bob

This is from "Steamboat Museum" website:  "A prototype of iron-hulled boats built on the Clyde by R. Duncan and Company of Port Glasgow and Dennys of Dunbarton in England. After completion of the hull and machinery, they were disassembled, crated up in sections and shipped to their operating areas in Southeast Asia, Africa, and South America for re-assembly by bolting together the hull plates and installing the machinery. The cabins and superstructure were then built according to the needs of the operators. Some were located in Burma and India being operated by the Irrawaddi Flotation Company in the early 1900's; at least one was running on the Amazon River in Peru as recently as 1985."
 
I've always thought the ZULU was an interesting boat.  I'll be watching for your build log.
 
Bob

Is this what you are looking for?
 
From "Elements of Mastmaking Sailmaking & Rigging" by David Steel, 1794
 
Block Length is 8 times the width of swallow.
Block Breadth is 6 times the width of swallow.
Block thickness is 1/2 the length of the block.
Width of Swallow is 1/16" plus 1.1 times the rope diameter.
Sheave thickness is 1.1 times the rope diameter.
Sheave diameter is 5 times the sheave thickness.
Pin diameter is the thickness of the sheave.
Pin hole diameter is 1/10 less than the diameter of the pin.
Double Block thickness at partition is 1/6 less than the breadth of the swallow width.
 
Bob

"Then I added the rabbet strip which was 1/8" x 1/16" in size. It went all along the bottom of the bulkhead former and up the stern post. Because the former was 1/4" thick this left a nice rabbet when everything was all together."
 
I've been tapering the bulkhead former to form the rabbet.  Adding a strip sounds easier.  Thanks.
 
Bob

Go to Specialshapes.com like George said.  That is where S&K gets there brass and then they repackage. 
 
Bob  

The ID of the hoop should be 1/4 to 1/2 larger than the mast depending where on the tapered mast it is.  I make my hoops the way you are doing it but I use old file folders.  The direction of wrap is 9.5 times the diameter of the dowel, this gives you three wraps around.  Wrap the dowel with waxed paper.  Taper the inside and outside edges before gluing around the dowel.  Let dry and slice.
 
Bob

Oh boy, Popeye's going to do it again.  What will happen to this poor little flattie?
 
Bob

I’m sure most of us have had that feeling, the build is complete but it just doesn’t feel right.  Well that’s what happened to me with the dory.  I decided I wasn’t finished with the dory build.  I had placed fishing items in the dory but it just didn’t feel complete.  I tried to start the little yawl, which is my next build, but I kept coming back to the dory.
 
Finally I decided to make it into a diorama.  To place the dory in the ocean, at home, as it were, where it spent most of its time.  Many fishermen used trawl lines but this fellow is fishing with a hand line.  I just seemed right.
 
I got a lot of help from several of you here at MSW.  But I especially want to thank Dan for taking me through it step by step.
 
        Dan, this one’s for you.
 

 

 

 
Bob
 
Now maybe I can build the yawl for the admiral.
 
 

Thanks to everyone who has been watching this build.  I sorry it’s been so long since the last entry.  I’m going to call this one done for now.  I hope to do something else and use this dory then but for now this is it.
 
The gear shown is: a Line bucket, a bait bucket, a lunch bucket, oars, a club, a bailing scoop, a cutting board and knife, on the thwart and a coil of rope. There is a divider about in the middle of the boat. The fisherman is in the bow with all the gear and he loads the fish into the other end.  You will notice there is no sail.  Use of a sail was up to the fisherman.  The way I heard it stated is. The schooner is the dormitory and kitchen but the dory is the fisherman’s home, (he in it about 12 hours a day) and he modifies it to his liking.
 
Here are the pictures for now. 
 

 

 

 
 
The admiral saw a picture of a sweet little gaff rigged yawl and said “That would be a nice model”,  and what the admiral wants. . .
 
Bob
 
 

Thanks Mark,
 
Making repetitive parts reminds me of a story.
 
A man driving down a country road sees some handmade furniture in front of a house.  He liked the look of one of the chairs and asks the price.  The craftsman said $35.00.  The man thinking the chair would make nice dining room chairs orders a set of eight.  The craftsman says “That will be $2000.00.”  The man complains and asks why so much.  The craftsman says . . . “The first one was fun”.
 
So now two more buckets.
 
Bob

Today I made a couple of buckets for the dory.  There are many methods, but this is the way I did it.
 
 
First I cut 12 staves the same size and mount them on a piece of masking tape.  These are .03” X .50” X .16”.  

I sand a slight taper from end to end so one end is narrower than the other.

Then one by one I sand the edges so the cross section is a trapezoid.

Place them side by side on clear tape with the smaller face pointing up and the narrow ends all at the same edge.  You can see how the taper causes a curve.

Cut off one end of the tape flush with the edge of the last stave.

Now roll the tape with the wood inside until the first and last pieces of wood meet and the tape on the end goes around the outside to hold it all together.

Make a disc of wood to fit inside the smaller end and glue it into place.

The bands are made from narrow strips of card stock.  After cutting I stained them.

Cut the tape off the lower part of the bucket and glue the card stock to look like a band.

Remove the rest of the tape and glue the other band around the top.

I didn't measure the taped staves for the diameter of the bottom but you could measure everything carefully and use geometry.
 
 
Bob

Finally I was able to do a little more on the dory. 
I started to paint the inside the same blue as the outside, but everything I saw showed the inside tan, yellow or yellow-orange.  So I painter it a warm yellow.  
 

 
I also added the lifting ropes in the bow and stern.
 



 
Now I need to put the boat aside and make all the things that the fisherman needed I n the boat.
 
Later, Bob
 

]It’s amazing what you learn when you build a boat the way they were actually built.  I had always wondered why lap strake.  It seems like a difficult way to build a boat.  But then I decided to build a dory and guess what, they were lap strake built.  The building taught me why. 
 
The planks of a dory were only 5/8” thick, and the only way to get enough surface area between planks and provide a good seal is to put matching angles on planks so that instead of 5/8” surface you end up with about 1½”. 
 
 Here is the dory hull, still a long way to go. 
 
Bob
 

 

As part of my last build, Joshua Slocum’s Spray, I built a dory and then cut it in half because he used half a dory as his “ship’s boat”.   I thought at the time a complete dory would be fun to build.
 
So, now, how were the old Grand Banks dories built? 
 
My research showed that during the 1880’s-1890’s the dory was built by the thousands, and was probably the first boat to be mass produced.  Each fishing schooner that went out carried as many dories and fishermen on board as it could.  This got me thinking.  The ship owners would be looking for the lowest price and the dory builders would be building as simply as possible to lower their cost.
 
The modern dory is a different boat.  The modern dory is long pieces of plywood and a few frames.  They have little rocker to almost flat on the bottom, and the chine strake is large at the ends and narrow in the middle.  This wastes wood and is something the dory builders of old would not have wanted to do. 
 
The written descriptions and pictures of the old dories show a boat with a deep rocker to the bottom and the chine plank is straight from bow to stern.  The old dory should be a simple boat to build. 
 
Now to this build.  Let’s have fun.  I will make the planks equal in width and straight from end to end and we will see what happens. 
 

The half frame is a great advantage to mass production.  Several half frames can be made in advance and adjusted to fit at time of assembly. 
I made the half frames at 120 degrees. 
 



Dories are made with lap strake construction.  The brass mounted on the angle prevents the angle from changing during sanding.  The brass is also mounted slightly above the angle to leave about .010” on the edge of the plank.
 


I did not know how much rocker there would be in the bottom so I could not mount the frames on a building board before mounting the chine strake.

Hi all,
 
Years ago I read "Sailing Alone Around the World" by Joshua Slocum, and in January 2012 I decided that I would build his boat, the "SPRAY", in 1/48 scale POF with bent framing. The way Slocum built it.  I started asking questions on this forum, and I want to thank all those who answerd with help.  The information on this forum is invaluable.
 
Then the research began.  In the first chapter of his book, Slocum said he was given an old "fishing smack".  So I looked for fishing smacks of 1800.  About when his was built.  Someone suggested the "Emma C Berry" for framing, so I hunted for information on that boat.  I also gathered as many plan drawings of the "Spray" as I could find.  About five.
 
Now it was time to check and redraw the plans.  The first thing I discovered was that ALL the plans had errors.  Things like, the shear and section views would agree and the shear and the plan views would agree, but the width of the plan was no where near the same as the width of the sections.  Of the drawings I had, the drawing from the appendix in the book was the closest.  So I traced that into an old copy of AutoCad and worked out the errors.
 
Checking the fishing smacks plans had shown a frame spacing of from 15" to 22" I chose 18" for framing the Spray.  I drew a section at each frame.  I offset a line .031" inside to subtract the 1.5" planking Slocum used.  The frames will be 3" X 5" so again I offset another line .062 inside the planking for the frames.  This gave me the section lines for the plug I will carve to shape the frames.
 
I am going to plank only half the deck and deck houses so I can show the insides, taken from the sketches in Slocum's book. (See below)
 
Bob
 

Well I see I'm going to have to be careful with this build.  There are too many people who have seen and/or been on her.  Well, at least when I get confused there will be people who can hopefully answer my questions.
 
Bob

Thank you Roger.  I just realized from looking at one of the drawings that she is built of metal.  I had just opened this to correct my earlier statement.  Be that as it may, I am going to build her of wood.
 
Bob 

Russ, I believe the main parts of the boat are wood.  But in some pictures such as one picture of the bow the spray guard on top of the rail is dented so it is metal. 
Welcome aboard, Michael and Nils.  I hope this turns out to be another ‘fun build”.
This is a picture dated 1903.  I will try to build to this time.
Bob
 
Bob

Mariefred
The coal-fired steamship Mariefred was built in 1903 for the trade-Enhörna Stockholm-Mariefred. She has sailed under the same name and with the same steam engine ever since.  The vessel has been owned by the same shipping company, Gripsholms-Mariefred Ångfartygs AB since 1905. All this makes Mariefred one of the worldwide unique ships and an indispensable part of Sweden's cultural heritage! 
Built at South wharf in Stockholm in 1903. Length 32.84 m, width 6.33 m. Coal-fired steam boiler.  Speed 10 knots.  230 passengers.
 
 

I see you have a couple of old "ducks", Were you a ship designer?
 
Bob

Looks like a good project. 
 
Bob

Thanks Popeye, I am learning faster than I thought I would.
 
Lawrence, I’m not ready to place the copper vents yet but here’s how the rest of it looks.
 
 I used styrene again for the main deckhouse.  Bending the curved ends was the hardest part.  I had to go slow with very little heat, about body temp.  In the first two photos it is the lighting that makes it look yellow. The doors will be open so I put the barrier down the middle so you can’t see through.  Then the handrails.  There’s a spot of epoxy on the inside where each wire penetrates the wall.   
 
Then I went back to soldered brass for the stack.  I once again discovered you can’t always trust the drawings.  The drawing shows the whistle at the top of the stack where the pictures show it just below the band holding the support wires.
 
I put all the parts in place and showed it to the admiral.  She who only like sails.  She admitted that it was beginning to look like a nice boat, and it would be OK if I built non sail boats once in a while.  Wow sometimes I do win.
 
Bob