Kurt Johnson
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Everything posted by Kurt Johnson
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Peter, I'm guessing that with your period expertise and nautical aricitectural knowledge the only parts you had problems with Campbell's interpretation of the Newsboy is the size of the anchor windlass. Do you remember how much you scaled it upwards? I'm hoping I can do a decent job in 1/8". Kurt
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Pete, Two questions. Do you seal the wood with poly before you paint with acrylics? (brush painted?) And can you recommend any resources that you've used for period merchant practices? Kurt
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I know but I'm currently restricted to kitchen table modeling with no shop available at this time. Also, like all of us not too much modeling time at the moment. So, the kit is the best alternative. You've proved what can be done with a kit. Very high bar, but a goal!!
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Pete, This is great! I had this kit in 3/16 back in the yellow box days. I always loved her lines. I had seen a few shots of your build on the UVSMG site a couple of years ago, and have always wanted to see more, now here it is. I have the 1/8 rerelease kit from about eight years ago, but never started it. Now I have to drag it out! Wish it was 3/16. I guess that's what the Optivisors for. Any thoughts on info resources? Kurt
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Does anyone have any ideas how to finish boxwood so it has some of the look of older models that were made with boxwood? I'm looking for a very,very subtle look. I know most now finish with wipe on poly. Can you add tints to this? Kurt
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Thanks guys. That's what I figured. I've glued up the first two layers. The piece is 8x16 for a central former. Spreading the glue was tricky. I used a 4 inch plastic drywall knife. Right now it's under all the weight I could pile on it. I'll add layer three tomorrow.
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Also wood you glue up everything at once, or one layer at a time?
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Has anyone tried to glue up basswood to make homemade plywood for bulkheads and formers? Did you use Gorilla Glue or PVA or what? How did it turn out. I'm considering to try and make my own.
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After having a meltdown about kit plywood being garbage, I purchased some Aircraft Birch plywood, MUCH better, but still not good for possible replacement. I searched around on the net and its seems all plywood over the past several years is crap. The main source is Chinese import which have increased by 1000% recently. The quality is very poor, central plys more air than wood, and often other things like box cutter blades and other forms of metal (great for power tools). The glues are toxic. A large quantity shipped to the Katrina area for reconstruction could not be used due to formaldehyde fumes. Warehouses have refused entire shipments for the same reason. None of it is near dimensional size (for every 19 full sheets, they can get an extra one by the reduced size. Finland one of the main birch sources is seeing its source running out. Maybe we, especially the kit suppliers, should look into an alternative, maybe MDF (suppose to laser cut well) or something. Darn, Ain't nothing like it usta be (including me)! Still I know there are those much hated (by me), gifted artists, who manage to continually come up with such amazing pieces of craftsmanship made out of nothing and spit. I guess I'll have to experiment and maybe hunt down some of those gifted ones too.
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I give up! I've just spent 8 days of my vacation trying to fix this thing. I made reinforcements at every bulkhead because everyone was compromised by the laser etching, the keel former was completely broken along three of these. I tried to adjust for the twisting of the piece as well. I got to the last aft bulkhead and it broke in 2 more new places. I now I have three separate chunks of hull. And even if I get it back together into one solid piece, I don't know if I can fare it. My entire vacation was wasted. I have not heard from Model Expo yet. But I am going to try and get replacements. I will have to think about whether I will by any more of their kits.
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Hi, Has anyone built Chuck Passaro's Mayflower kit as a single layer planking? If so what adjustments did you make to build it that way? Kurt
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Well the keel former is back in one piece. It's presently under weights again to try and lessen some windage in the high stern area. I'm sure that with adequate bracing that can be corrected. I plugged the voids in the middle ply that when from top to bottom which should help. In those areas the former was depending on only the 1/32 in outer ply, not much strength there. I will make this work, it will look like Rube Goldberg probably, but that gets all covered up. When I get straightened out I'm sure that the replacement will come.
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One of the reasons I was so mad about this was that I am on vacation this week and wanted to spend some time modeling. I can't do much with out the false keel former. Model Expo never replies to requests, it just shows up in the mail in a week or so. I looked locally but couldn't find any good ply in 3/16, they had 1/8 and 1/4 and only 12 inches long, I need 15 inches. I found some 4 ply aircraft grade plywood from Balsa USA for only 3.50 so that's on order as backup. I am trying to fix this thing just for something to do. I glued it together and it's under about 50 lbs of weights. Naturally the cracks go down the center of where the bulkheads will fit. I will try and scab the joints with some 1/64 boxwood I have on both sides. Then I'll widen the bulkhead slot enough to accommodate the added width of the former at those spots. Sounds good in theory. I will have to take out some windage with some bracing too as it twists in the area of the high stern on this ship. This will end up as a solid hull, but I'll definitely have a surface to plank on. Scratch building makes so much more sense.
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The main reason I haven't gone to scratch is my wife has my workshop among other things.
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I have been in contact with them and also to Marc in another part of the forum. I know, they will replace them, but with what. The same thing? I have had this kit before And it was with decent 5 ply, that's what Chuck designed it with. I've looked at some builds that are still around on the net and 5 ply! I contacted them earlier today and asked if I paid for decent plywood would they make a set up with that, so we'll see. Maybe with Marc back in the reigns, things will go back to the way they used to be. I have some decent plywood, but I'm in a real small apartment now and don't have my bandsaw or scroll saw anymore. Do have a coping saw, but that's gonna cut into my time and probably not be as neat. We'll see. Kurt
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Just received a Model Shipways Mayflower kit and I have to vent. The plywood used is terrible! Every piece is warped to a degree. Only the primary ply, of which there are only three, is blemish free and not patched with wood filler. The laser etch for marking lines burnt right down to the center ply which has large empty areas and therefore snap. Now the center ply is 66 percent of the thickness of the piece and that is laser glazed. Can't think of a worse surface to adhere planking to. I know, they will be replaced with the same quality. I'll probably cut my own from 5 ply birch from Michael's (like was what used to be used), just kinda defeats the whole kit idea, and doubles the expense. I was trying to save some modeling time which is limited. But scratch building really seems the way to go, much less frustrating. Haven't built any of the European kits, but the photos in all the blogs look like much better materials as far as formers and bulkheads go. It so annoying getting something and having to wait on replacements that may be the same. Sorry but I had to vent. Kurt
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I've been the health field for thirty years, the only precautions I really use is a mask if I'm power sawing, grinding or sanding. Anything that makes fine dust, especially since my face is usually PRETTY CLOSE so I can see what's going on. Hand tools, I'll take my chances. CA fumes aren't great either!
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Spalted maple is sometimes used for bases. The wood has mold spores in its dust. You can get some pretty nasty fungal lung infections which are difficult to treat.
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I'm not sure, but I seem to remember that Portia Takajia died from emphysema that was exacerbated from breathing dust from exotic spalted wood she used in her modeling. If not toxic they surely must be an irritant that would make someone with asthma or other respiratory problems worse. I doubt normal contact would be a problem. Kurt
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Let me know how that works out, that's what I had in mind. Who makes them? I have looked at many, trying to envision their potential, but nothing struck just right. Kurt
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Maybe, just maybe, the great Chuck........,
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that thread really wasn't much help. I modeled military miniatures for many years and had my turn at railroading and other than Prieser (who's type of plastic I don't like to work with) there isn't much out there. I thought maybe someone stumbled on something out there. That isn't cartoonish.
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Does anyone know a source of 1/48th scale figures other than Prieser? It seems the other scales have more to offer. I'm not quite ready to make my own completely, but feel comfortable modifying ones. Kurt
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Just can't come up with the cash for a Byrnes now! Has anyone done some innovative things to the Preac saw? I have repowered mine with a 1/3 HP motor. Any machinist types who have some ideas? Considering it originally cost almost $400 and it's still kicking, it's hard to put down! Kurt
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Anyone have any experience with Alexey's Prosak 2.1 Ropewalk? What do you think of it? Do you have to take Prozac (antianxiety rx) after you use it? It looks pretty reasonable. Kurt
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