Kurt Johnson
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HMS Alert 1777 by Jaekon Lee - 1/64
Kurt Johnson replied to Jaekon Lee's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Lee, I really have to get one of those shoulder planes! Any advice, except for patience, patience and practice, practice! Kurt -
Gregor, Knowing the Sherbourne was your first build, I can't wait too see what you accomplish with these two! I really like your style of modelling. Kurt
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Beautiful! What's your next project? You had better have one soon! I really love following your build. By the way, I finally received my plans from the NMM a couple of days ago. Kurt
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If you want a clinker planked hull for a double planked hull kit, do you clinker plank the second layer or both?
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Looking at that picture I see what you mean. I didn't notice the ports where rirght up to the caprail.
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My plan, when I get there, as far as gunport height might be to plank over bottom descrepency to the proper height then fill in behind it with scrap before the inner bulkhead is planked. I'll make up one of the cannon or some kind of jig for consistency. So far I have just remade the stem and keel piece in boxwood. I'm waiting on the NMM plans before I do much else. I ordered them a while ago, they just emailed on the 15th to say they're mailed. From England to the States should take about another 7 to 10 days. Takes me back to preinternet/Amazon days. I'll just have to work on some patience in the meantime!
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Gregor, Some of the Sherbourne builds refer to problems with the plywood bulwark pieces. What specifically is the issue and the solution?
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Nigel, You surely get good results! Doesn't it make in more difficult to get the aligned correctly? I'm most likely try your way. Kurt
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When building POB double planked kits is it better to apply the stem, keel and sternpost to the false keel, BEFORE or AFTER, planking the hull. I've seen both ways in different builds. Which way would more likely give the best results? I'm a little about the after process. Kurt
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I have a piece of 3/16 x 20 inch piece of boxwood that's crowned width wise about 1/16 of an inch. I've never had this happen before with this type of wood. I guess it's wasted, unless I thin it down till it's straight. There wouldn't be too much left. If I soak in press under weight any chance it might correct?
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Happy New Year. Thanks for answering my question. I noticed the reference in your original rigging thread and ordered a copy last night! That should take about 10 days to reach the states. I'm going to replace the walnut with boxwood and try a clinker hull. Not much modeling time with work so it will be slow going. I've read all the current Sherbourne builds on MSW. Wish the MSW 1s were still around. Kurt
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Gregor, Which of the NMM prints did you use? The three on their web page look almost identical. They're a little expensive to get them all and then not use most of them. Do you think getting them all is worth it? Kurt
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God Jul. I have been following this build with great pleasure. The Sherbourne is a project I'm planning on starting after the holidays. Petersson's fore and aft is a later rig, correct? What would be the best resource for her when launched? Kurt
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The NMM has three different plans listed for Sherborne, 1763. From the views I can make out they are slightly different. Very slightly! Which one have the Sherbourne gurus been using? At $40 a pop, I don't want to find that two are not worth having. Kurt
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Thanks Chuck, I love to read and love to get a "feel" for the subject. I personally like these little guys more than the big ones. I think they have more character. And unless you have a McMansion, fit better! Kurt
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Chuck, Have come across any good resources for cutters like Cheerful, other than AOS. Alert? Kurt
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Found out which and ordered them. I'm very interested in this build!!!
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Hi, I didn't realize that SIS was still published. What issues are Kurt's articles in, so I can order them?
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Gerald, I finally received my Morgan kit! This project is probably gonna take as long as yours due to available time issues. I am a little disappointed, because the bulkheads are now plywood (a better grade than MSW was using for a while). Its 3 ply, of which the center ply makes up about 90 percent. That would mean the planking is really being glued to end grain, and I doubt thats a very good bond. I don't know whether to remake them in basswood, or to add basswood to the bulkhead to have a decent bonding surface. Since you're a woodworker any thoughts? Kurt
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Hey, Don't stop now!! You've got me all worked up. I've always wanted to build this kit and now I've ordered one. I think your weathering is perfect. Maybe you could do a little tutorial on the process, like you did with the chain and tryworks. Do you have any particular research photos that you found to be especially helpful in your build so far? Kurt
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Pete, Are you saying that problem is with the fittings and that these items are the appropriate size on the plans? Kurt
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Thanks Pete. Still in the planing stage now. Have to make up my templates, I could never figure why there aren't more models of this genre. I' d love to build a clipper, but space won't allow for it. Kurt
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Peter, I'm guessing that with your period expertise and nautical aricitectural knowledge the only parts you had problems with Campbell's interpretation of the Newsboy is the size of the anchor windlass. Do you remember how much you scaled it upwards? I'm hoping I can do a decent job in 1/8". Kurt
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Pete, Two questions. Do you seal the wood with poly before you paint with acrylics? (brush painted?) And can you recommend any resources that you've used for period merchant practices? Kurt
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I know but I'm currently restricted to kitchen table modeling with no shop available at this time. Also, like all of us not too much modeling time at the moment. So, the kit is the best alternative. You've proved what can be done with a kit. Very high bar, but a goal!!
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