bbrockel

Just found a major boo-boo.  I miscounted the number of rows of planks on the starboard side verses the port side.  UGH!  Looks like I'll have to remove the wales and that beautiful anchor stock planking on the starboard side to add another row of planking.  And as I have said before, the pain subsided once I quit banging my head on the wall.      

Thank you Joss and Grant for your guidance.  Grant, I have the TFFM series and will refer to them.  Also Just acquired a copy of Peter Goodwin's "The Construction and Fitting of the English Man-of-War".  Both very good references.  Joss, Uweks build is also a great reference.  Have been following it as it develops here on MSW 2.0.

Thank you Rusty.  It's repurposed douglas fir (approx 50 years old, very nice to work with) from a remodel project in the house.
 
You bet Grant.  I'm always interested in new ways to do a task.  And pictures are a great help.  Thanks.

A little more progress on the TRITON. Adding the floor planks, some of the hull planks and shaping and dry fitting the lower gun deck beams.  Little bit at a time.  

Thank you all for the very kind comments.
Sjors, I copied the gantry-style build board from Mike41 over at Model Ship Builder web site.  I've added the link to Mike's thread on building the build board.  Take a peek, it's pretty easy to construct.    http://www.modelshipbuilder.com/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?5571.0

I started the TRITON cross section build as a first step toward scratch building.  Or as they call it here the "Dark Side".  The plans are very easy to follow, crisp and clean.  It has been a pretty steep learning curve for me.  Going from having most of the parts laser cut to having to cut and shape each piece myself.  Had some set backs but for the most part, progress has been in the forward direction.  I have postd a few pics with descriptions to cover my progress to date. 
 
 

A little more progress on the TRITON. Adding the floor planks, some of the hull planks and shaping and dry fitting the lower gun deck beams.  Little bit at a time.  

I started the TRITON cross section build as a first step toward scratch building.  Or as they call it here the "Dark Side".  The plans are very easy to follow, crisp and clean.  It has been a pretty steep learning curve for me.  Going from having most of the parts laser cut to having to cut and shape each piece myself.  Had some set backs but for the most part, progress has been in the forward direction.  I have postd a few pics with descriptions to cover my progress to date. 
 
 

Thanks for the book report, Mark.  This book is on my 'need to read' list.  Hi, my name is Bob and I'm a book-aholic.

A museum quality piece.  You should be extreemly proud.  Thank you for sharing your craftsmanship with all of us. 

Not yet, Tony.  Working on the US Brig Syren at the moment

Not yet, Tony.  Working on the US Brig Syren at the moment

Not yet, Tony.  Working on the US Brig Syren at the moment

Beautiful work, Tony.

A little more progress on the TRITON. Adding the floor planks, some of the hull planks and shaping and dry fitting the lower gun deck beams.  Little bit at a time.  

I started the TRITON cross section build as a first step toward scratch building.  Or as they call it here the "Dark Side".  The plans are very easy to follow, crisp and clean.  It has been a pretty steep learning curve for me.  Going from having most of the parts laser cut to having to cut and shape each piece myself.  Had some set backs but for the most part, progress has been in the forward direction.  I have postd a few pics with descriptions to cover my progress to date. 
 
 

Onto the rudder hinges.  The generic hardware provided with the kit just didn't do it for me and with the success of the built ones for the Druid I really had no choice (hah hah) but to go down the same route.
 
First up was cutting strips for the 4 hinges required.  My raw brass sheet was wide enough to provide enough strip for each hinge set.
 

 
Simply define the width and run the blade over this line a few times.  I then gently wrap this edge over the edge of a piece of wood using gentle hammer strokes followed by returning it flat.  Then I grab it with my small pliers and with a little wiggle the strip snaps off.  I had previously bought a brass tube and rod that perfectly fits inside for the hinge mechanism.
 
For silver soldering there has been lots of posts but essentially the ingredients are:
 

 
Acetone for cleaning the brass, water for cooling after, flux (the right stuff), the silver solder pieces and finally the torch.
 
The tube was first soldered to the strip and then cut to size.  After repeating this eight times I then soldered four rods for the mating pieces.
 

 
After it was all done (less than an hour) I did an initial bend and everything looks good.  Still some refinement but another hour or so and these will be ready for blackening.  The original kit piece is in the upper left.
 

 
Very solid (and permanent).  It will look like a million bucks soon.  Next step is to drill holes for the bolts, bend to shape and get them configured to the hull.
 
Stay building my friends,
Mark

Thanks Eamonn,
 
When i decided to work 'outside the box' one of my requirements was for it be visually appealing.  I change things on the fly if they don't quite seem complete.  The deck reinforcing was one such item.  It seemed right but definitely wasn't planned for originally.  The result surpassed my expectation.
 
The warning is, once you start bashing you want to bash more and more!
 
Cheers,
Mark

Since this was a working boat it spent a good chunk of time moored to a dock while it loaded or unloaded, so……it needed a robust way to tie up, usually to docks below the height of its bulwarks.  I had noticed the use of cavels on some wooden period ships I have visited and thought this the perfect solution.  A quick check of the Pride of Baltimore II reinforced this by seeing she had them.
 
These were pretty straight forward but I believe really added some pop to the hull.  I decided to use a block of walnut for the hull pass through and basswood (my go to wood) for the interior tie up post.  Since the bulwark was veneer overlaid on the inner sub-layer the walnut really provided a consistent clean look that I liked.  For location, I drilled through the inner bulwark at the center point between frames for accuracy.  A little wood removal with a sharp knife / files and lots of test fittings and this part was good to go.  The inner cavel post was pretty straight forward (don’t forget the matching center hole to the hull) and glued on.  All in all, this was less than an hour of work.  A total of four were put on the Lady Anne (two each side).

Great progress on your Syren.  You definitely had some hurdles to overcome with regards to the inferior materials you had to start with.   Keep up the good work.

Here are the missing pictures from Post 115.
 
 
 
 

Beautiful work, Tony.

Working on the stern. The plans and instructions are vague on this part with one fuzzy picture showing planks before painting.

Beautiful work, Tony.