Mike Y
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Mike Y got a reaction from malmoerik in HMY Britannia 1893 by malmoerik - Mamoli - Scale 1: 64
Interesting deck planking pattern, with surprisingly narrow deck planks. Is it purely for aesthetic reasons, or such planking is more practical on a yacht?
The paint looks great, nice glossy effect!
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Mike Y reacted to malmoerik in 21ft English Pinnace by Mike Y - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24
Cool, you're getting there! I like how thin and delicate the hull looks.
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Mike Y got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in 21ft English Pinnace by Mike Y - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24
Finished one caprail. Turned out to be unexpectedly tricky to make a proper templates, so I just glued a Big Ugly Something and then sanded it down to name it a caprail. As you can see, right caprail looks legit, left one is just a piece of wood:
Remined me of a childhood, when I was locked up in a summer house for a month, and was so bored that made a solid hull ship about 25cm long, carved from a single piece of wood using one chisel and a sharp knife (that were the only tools available, apart from the garden shovel and a hammer). It is just a matter of time required to sand...
Speaking of mistakes, now a bit incorrectly aligned frame is very visible, one side of the hull have a wrong shape. Unfixable on a current phase of the build. Always always align your frames perfectly! Lesson learnt.
Chuck, do you recommend to cover a panted parts with a wipe-on poly? Is poly compatible with acrylic paints like Galeria that I use on your advice?
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Mike Y reacted to malmoerik in HMY Britannia 1893 by malmoerik - Mamoli - Scale 1: 64
Varnishing done. Now time to paint her black above waterline.
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Mike Y got a reaction from fatih79 in 21ft English Pinnace by Mike Y - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24
Thanks Chuck!
Finished caprails, and finally painted everything. This time I mixed the paint with a bit of water, so it was more liquid.
I was very very paranoid to avoid the paint stains, so covered everything that should not be painted with a masking tape:
Next lesson - instead of smoothing the surface, paint highlight all imperfections and a wood grains. Since on a basswood I could not remove the hairy wood fibers even with scratching or 1200grit paper - now I see lots of them
And turned out that I did a poor sanding job on internal planking, it is far from being sanded flush. Shame, truly a shame, but to fix it - will need to remove lots of paint, and it would turn the model into a messy thing. So - next time, on a next model. Better sand more then less.
Tomorrow, when paint would be completely dry, will add a layer of wipe-on poly, maybe that will hide some nasty wood fibers.
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Mike Y got a reaction from robin b in 21ft English Pinnace by Mike Y - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24
Thanks Chuck!
Finished caprails, and finally painted everything. This time I mixed the paint with a bit of water, so it was more liquid.
I was very very paranoid to avoid the paint stains, so covered everything that should not be painted with a masking tape:
Next lesson - instead of smoothing the surface, paint highlight all imperfections and a wood grains. Since on a basswood I could not remove the hairy wood fibers even with scratching or 1200grit paper - now I see lots of them
And turned out that I did a poor sanding job on internal planking, it is far from being sanded flush. Shame, truly a shame, but to fix it - will need to remove lots of paint, and it would turn the model into a messy thing. So - next time, on a next model. Better sand more then less.
Tomorrow, when paint would be completely dry, will add a layer of wipe-on poly, maybe that will hide some nasty wood fibers.
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Mike Y got a reaction from mtaylor in 21ft English Pinnace by Mike Y - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24
Thanks Chuck!
Finished caprails, and finally painted everything. This time I mixed the paint with a bit of water, so it was more liquid.
I was very very paranoid to avoid the paint stains, so covered everything that should not be painted with a masking tape:
Next lesson - instead of smoothing the surface, paint highlight all imperfections and a wood grains. Since on a basswood I could not remove the hairy wood fibers even with scratching or 1200grit paper - now I see lots of them
And turned out that I did a poor sanding job on internal planking, it is far from being sanded flush. Shame, truly a shame, but to fix it - will need to remove lots of paint, and it would turn the model into a messy thing. So - next time, on a next model. Better sand more then less.
Tomorrow, when paint would be completely dry, will add a layer of wipe-on poly, maybe that will hide some nasty wood fibers.
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Mike Y got a reaction from malmoerik in 21ft English Pinnace by Mike Y - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24
Finished one caprail. Turned out to be unexpectedly tricky to make a proper templates, so I just glued a Big Ugly Something and then sanded it down to name it a caprail. As you can see, right caprail looks legit, left one is just a piece of wood:
Remined me of a childhood, when I was locked up in a summer house for a month, and was so bored that made a solid hull ship about 25cm long, carved from a single piece of wood using one chisel and a sharp knife (that were the only tools available, apart from the garden shovel and a hammer). It is just a matter of time required to sand...
Speaking of mistakes, now a bit incorrectly aligned frame is very visible, one side of the hull have a wrong shape. Unfixable on a current phase of the build. Always always align your frames perfectly! Lesson learnt.
Chuck, do you recommend to cover a panted parts with a wipe-on poly? Is poly compatible with acrylic paints like Galeria that I use on your advice?
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Mike Y got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in 21ft English Pinnace by Mike Y - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24
Internal planking completed:
Now - the caprails!
Chuck recommends to make them flush with internal planking, but let them hang on external side.
But I'm thinking maybe it would look nicer make a caprail symmetrical, evenly hanging a bit from both sides? Will try and see. Luckily there is enough wood in the kit for experimenting with different shapes of caprails
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Mike Y got a reaction from fatih79 in 21ft English Pinnace by Mike Y - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24
Now the progress is really fast!
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Mike Y got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in 21ft English Pinnace by Mike Y - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24
Also found an old boat (real boat) that is being restored, look how thin the frames are! I didn't know that they could be that thin. It's just some sticks!
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Mike Y got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in 21ft English Pinnace by Mike Y - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24
Had no time to model for a month, but now finally back to the bench!
Installed the risers, it required a better fairing of the frames, and I was not risking to clamp them while glueing.
Here comes the nasty part - painting. I truly hate it, my painting skill suck and the whole procedure is extremely risky. That is why I always opt to natural wood color, maybe a bit of stain But this model have a rich red color which adds a style, so there is no choice.
I used Galeria Acrylic Crimson paint, same as Chuck. Results are quite ok in places where you can wipe away unnecessary paint with a cloth:
But I totally failed in an area with problematic access, like transom. Well, that would be an experience...
Maybe I should have mixed it with water, to make paint more liquid?
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Mike Y got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in 21ft English Pinnace by Mike Y - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24
Glued floors, stained inboard and covered it with poly. Not very accurate though.
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Mike Y got a reaction from fnkershner in 21ft English Pinnace by Mike Y - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24
Btw, there is a real shortage of a wide planks for floor and platform on the back of the ship. I used one of them for a hull gap plank, as advised, and there were just 4 planks remaining. While you need around 5 at least!
Also, while planning the next steps, found some mysterious Extra Details. Spent 30min re-reading whole manual, cant find what that could be. It is thick and, probably, should be mounted on a keel. Chuck, could you please give a hint, that are these pieces for?
Two right ones on this sheet of laser cut details:
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Mike Y got a reaction from aviaamator in 21ft English Pinnace by Mike Y - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24
Applied stain. Hat tip Amfibius, with wipe on method it's much better:
Some spots on a bow do not soak any stain. I tried to scratch and gently sand them to "open" fibers, but no luck.
Then added a coat of a wipe-on poly. Reflections are not as strong in real life, it's just a lamp that I use when taking photos
Whole staining experience confirmed that the best stain is no stain, good wood do not require any staining, just a gentle cover of a poly.
Now looking forward to inner hull sanding!
Also ordered boxwood longboat, will do the next build better then this one
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Mike Y got a reaction from Mirabell61 in 21ft English Pinnace by Mike Y - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24
Finished treenailing and sanding. Sanded with 240 -> 600 -> 1200 grits, the result is kind of smooth (if you can say that about that wood).
The stains here are not glue or dirt, it is really such wood first and last experience with cheap wood for planking.
But luckily my staining experiments show that stain will smoothen the wood color a bit.
Also planked the transom:
Now the most tricky part - painting. If I do it wrong - whole build is trashed and will deserve a good old viking funeral!
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Mike Y got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in 21ft English Pinnace by Mike Y - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24
Yahoo! Finished the hull planking!
Looks ugly before sanding:
(Yes, wood is of different color, no more basswood!)
But much better after sanding:
Final sanding would be done after a treenails imitation. Planks are quite thin, dont want to sand them too much
Now it really feels like a boat!
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Mike Y got a reaction from fnkershner in 21ft English Pinnace by Mike Y - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24
Installing final planks. Gaps for remaining plank have a bit different width, so on one side I will have two thin planks based on regular strips, and one other side - one plank made from a wider strip.
Shaped that strip, bit after soaking it obviously become larger and do not fit into the gap anymore. Another illustration why one shoild never glue soaked planks :
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Mike Y got a reaction from mrshanks in 21ft English Pinnace by Mike Y - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24
Now I dry fit soaked planks using a paper clips, they dry overnight, and next evening I glue them. One pair of planks per day, but turned out to be easier then bending and drying!
Dont forget to put some scrapmpieces between the clip and the plank, otherwise it will leave an ugly traces. Soaked basswood is much softer then I thought
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Mike Y got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in 21ft English Pinnace by Mike Y - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24
In a meanwhile, added a third planking level and made a base for a slipway-style model stand. It would be painted black and I will add some diagonal supports for the boat when the planking would be completed.
Still not sure how that stand will look in reality, so maybe there would be a second iteration.
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Mike Y got a reaction from mrshanks in 21ft English Pinnace by Mike Y - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24
Don't mind a bit dirty hull, I will remove the glue traces and sand the hull later, when it would be completed.
Also, thanks BobF for a nice way of making a plank bending templates - attach the sticky tape to the previous plank, paint the pencil line like you are simulating the caulking, bend the plank according to that template:
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Mike Y got a reaction from rudybob in 21ft English Pinnace by Mike Y - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24
It was trickier then expected
If you just put the top plank into the bow "slot", then it's just going vertical, without following the hull shape:
To make planks follow the shape of the hull, I lifted to top plank a bit higher on the bow, and tapered the second plank.
In hindsight it's pretty obvious, no matter how you bend the planks, they should be tapered. But I was too much following the instructions, and surprised that it was not mentioned there (or I was not reading carefully?)
So that's how the bow looks like when second plank tapered and first plank lifted higher (it's just halfway inserted into the bow slot):
The second plank was also a bit tapered on the stern:
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Mike Y got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in 21ft English Pinnace by Mike Y - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24
Started a planking, found a problem.
The first frame (K) looks mounted too high. The top plank do not follow a smooth curve. On a drawings there is no sign of a higher front frame, so I thought that I did not inserted it on a full length while glueing.
But then I checked the photos in a manual, page 5 (top and left photos), and they also show the front frame mounted higher then next frames.
If you draw a plank line on a sticky tape, front frame creates an ugly step:
If I want a plank to make a smooth curve - then top frame pokes a bit and should be shortened. Not a big deal, I do not think it would be bad for the hull, but want to doublecheck before cutting.
Chuck, I would appreciate your advice, what is a better option? Or am I really made a serious mistakes and glued the front frame higher then it should be?
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Mike Y got a reaction from fnkershner in 21ft English Pinnace by Mike Y - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24
Finished one caprail. Turned out to be unexpectedly tricky to make a proper templates, so I just glued a Big Ugly Something and then sanded it down to name it a caprail. As you can see, right caprail looks legit, left one is just a piece of wood:
Remined me of a childhood, when I was locked up in a summer house for a month, and was so bored that made a solid hull ship about 25cm long, carved from a single piece of wood using one chisel and a sharp knife (that were the only tools available, apart from the garden shovel and a hammer). It is just a matter of time required to sand...
Speaking of mistakes, now a bit incorrectly aligned frame is very visible, one side of the hull have a wrong shape. Unfixable on a current phase of the build. Always always align your frames perfectly! Lesson learnt.
Chuck, do you recommend to cover a panted parts with a wipe-on poly? Is poly compatible with acrylic paints like Galeria that I use on your advice?
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Mike Y reacted to Chuck in 21ft English Pinnace by Mike Y - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24
It wont hurt anything. I do it all the time. Its coming out just great so far. Well done!!!
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