bhermann

My recent work on Euryalus has actually given me some motivation to do some work on Oneida.
 
I am in the middle of stropping blocks for the carronade tackle, and it's not a task I enjoy.   I need 64 blocks, 32 with hooks, and 32 with a hook and loop. (I don't remember the correct term.  I'll look it up and edit this later.)   There's a photo of a pair in post #645.
 
So I can only do a few before losing patience.  I decided to work on the masts; specifically the crosstrees and tops, to break the exasperation of the blocks.  Here is Chapelle's spar drawing for Oneida--

 
Not much detail. It looks like the crosstrees, but without the platform?   I'm taking the crosstree dimension, which happens to be 6', and using that to size everything else.
 
Using Petrejus' book on Irene as a guide, I've scaled the top to the size I need, and cut some strips for the platform floor--

 
These were glued, and now they need to be filed (I can't think of another way I can do this) so they are "let into each other with a half and half dap."  Easier said than done considering how thin these are.
 
Here's a shot of the floor planks glued together into the four groups, (not yet "dapped" into each other), my small but growing number of stropped blocks, and the materials going into this work--

 
Ron  

Responding to the February 18th post (don't know how I missed it at the time), I realized after I had installed my chanplates that they actually sit flush with the hull and not proud of it as I did them.  I think this may inform the decision whether you include them or not - they would not be very apparent at the 1:64 scale we are building at.
 
Good luck with figuring out the sails, there are too many options to think about and it has brought my build to a halt for years.  Cloth sails in general are too thick to maintain scale.  I am considering doing them anyway, or maybe doing paper strips to build each sail panel by panel.  In any case making photocopies is a good idea!
 
Your work is looking very good to this Bluenose builder!
 
Bob

I thought I would shift focus and move on to sails for the time being.  I had a friend give me the patterns for his Bluenose sails but they weren't the correct scale. I also wasn't sure if the kit provided me with enough material to make the sails; considering I will likely have to remake a few of them as a learning exercise.  
 

 
I went to our local Fabric shop and picked up some material that was similar to the material provided in the kit.  I don't know if the material is to proper scale (thickness) but for now it will do.  I also picked up some tracing paper and started tracing out the sails.
 

 
I plan on photocopying the patterns before I attempt to use them.  I have a feeling the copies will be needed.
 
I have been loosely following Bob Hunt's practicum.  However, with the Bluenose he does not cover the sails.  His practicum is for a ship without sails.  His series of practicums increase in skill level as the builder moves from one practicum to the next.  With the Bluenose he didn't cover the sails as this practicum was designed for the beginner.  Luckily I do have a couple of articles on sail making and, of course, I got all the information at my fingertips on this forum. 

Thanks for looking, in and for the encouragement. Another brief update. First, the full set of fore yards are done, save for painting, footropes, and blocks, as well as the main course yard. Looking at the photo, I see that the main course yard is upside down compared to everything else. Oh well. Even if I wanted to make more yards now, I doubt I have enough eyebolts left, so, an order needs to be made.
 

 
Which means, of course, that it's back to tying ratlines. Or as that old corporate adage goes, the ratlines will continue until morale improves.
 

 
The good news is that it feels like I'll soon be exiting this long phase during which lots of stuff is being done, but the ship isn't changing its appearance much. It's been two months since I started tying ratlines (and making yards and gin blocks, and cranes) and probably another 3-5 more weeks on the starboard ratlines (during which I'll paint the fore yards and mount the footropes). But once that is done, the ship should start changing appearance at a reasonable pace which will be a relief.
 
As always, thanks for looking in!
 
Regards,
George K

While looking for some tools I need, I saw this chain. It may be a better match for the original drive chain of the Bluenose. Mine is already fixed in place and I don't want to tear it up again. Anyway, for those of you who are looking here's the URL: https://www.micromark.com/Tamiya-Ladder-Chain-Sprocket-Set

Well a brief update. Work continues apace on the yards. I had already made the main course, and I decided I would make all 5 yards for the foremast before I restart knot tying. Probably a mistake b/c no doubt I will lose some of my facility with the knots picked up over the previous several weeks, but well, damn the torpedoes and all that. So, here are the first 4, top to bottom main course yard, fore course yard, fore top yard, fore royal yard. The fore topgallant yard is missing because I wound up binning two of them, one after my drill bit basically chunked out the underside, and a second after it snapped while I was sanding the yardarm.
 

 
The metal piece attached to the truss is going to wrap around the mast and then be trimmed to size to represent the iron work. It's 0.002 in thick brass that I cut from a sheet. One thing I have learned is for the small diameter yards is to only sand the yardarms out on the live end of lathe. Once that end is made, I reverse the yard and once again sand at the live end. Hopefully I won't bin any more due to stress failure of the narrow dowels.
 
The one thing not yet on the yards are the sheet blocks (present on the course and top yards) which were iron and hang from under the yard. I tried a bunch of things that did not work to make the blocks, but I think I have something that works now. Here is a photo of the first one.
 

 
The block is hanging from the wood strip which I am going to trim down to just above the single nail on the top and CA glue to the yard. I made the frames from two square pieces of 0.002 inch brass sheet, which I sat on top of each other, held together with some Tamiya tape. I then drilled the three holes, 2 on the bottom, and one on the top. I ran small brass nails through the holes in one sheet. On the two bottom nails I slid some tiny parrel bead to space the top and bottom frames, and on the top, I put a small wood strip with a hole drilled into it and the used my dremel to create a rounded end so that there would be some space. Next, I put the other piece of brass sheet with holes on, sending the nails through the holes and used CA glue on the outside to hold everything in place. trimmed the nails, used my dremel to shape the brass so that it has the shape above (basically 3 intersecting circles). When I mount them, I'm going to keep chain in place, they were far to much of a pain to try to thread them on the mast, on the ship. That probably means some wasted chain, but I'd rather buy more chain than become completely frustrated by my inability to get it in place.
 
Anyways, thanks for looking in!
 
Regards,
George K.
 
 

The engine box is a more complicated structure. It's really two boxes and has a number of details. Once again, to simplify construction, I started with a solid block. The block was cut to rough size and sanded to finished size using a disc sander. The layout for cuts to make the smaller box was marked.

A mill was used to remove the waste material. A mill was also used to cut the slots for the clutch lever and drive shaft. The slots were then squared off with a fine square file.

A thin piece of wood from some of the dory scrap was used for the top of the motor box and drive shaft box. A scalpel was used to score lines in the boxes to simulate separate boxes, top door and removable side panel.

The boxes were painted and a blackened brass flat installed. The usual process; sand, shellac, fine sand, primer, sand, airbrush finish color. Brass Black was used to blacken the clutch lever. The lever was sharpened on one end and inserted into the slot using a pin-pusher.
The motor box is far forward where there is significant slope to the deck. This means the box must be on a level platform. To determine the correct slope a bubble level was used to first level the ship. The level was then placed on top of the motor box and shims added to bring it level. The necessary thickness could then be measured from the shim stack.

Temporary coamings were added to provide a spacing reference for the finished coaming.  The correct thickness shim was added to the aft end of the box.

Coaming pieces were then glued around the bottom using the temporary guides. After the glue set a line was marked and a scalpel used to trim the slope into the coaming.

While waiting for the glue to dry, some thin brass strip was used to make the hinges. These things are really, really tiny and hard to hold while filing to shape. A small hemostat seemed to work best. Finicky work. Lost one of the hinges twice. A tiny dab of PVA was applied where each hinge goes and the hinges cemented in place. Magnifier and tweezer work here.

Next the coaming was masked off and trim color applied. After the paint dried the motor box, chain box, companion way, skylight and galley stack were cemented to the deck using PVA. My anchor chain arrived a couple days ago. I blackened the chain with Brass Black and added it  to the ship to get the full effect.

 
 

The forward companionway was next. The photos of the original ship were used for construction and the plans scaled for size. A small block was cut to size and squared off using my X-Y table and drill press technique. Note: a harder wood such as boxwood or pine is much easier to get a precise cut.

Next a line was drawn on the side of the block for the slope of the top. A second line was drawn 2mm parallel with the first. The block was clamped in the vise along the second line. This allowed the mill to cut all the way to the edge of the block. The waste part was then milled off.

The front half of the box was hollowed out, then the box was rotated to make the slope perpendicular. The back half was then hollowed out with the mill.

Because the bottom of the box was cut out, a black paper was glued to the bottom of the box using the same technique as the skylight.
To make the rounded cover I sliced a small piece from an appropriate size of dowel. In this case an old closet rod was just right.

The back of the interior and inside bottom was painted flat black, the top burnt umber to match the skylight and the rest white.

The coaming was added and painted to match the other coamings. I didn't quite like the way it looked with the opening. I added one of the boards that close of the hatch when it's not in use. That, of course, would not be the way it was actually used but looks much better.

Hull ready for waterline…

Her bottom will be painted red below the waterline.  After taking another look at her deck, I decided she needed a redress of the deck planking. Just wasn’t satisfied with the finish. 
 

More sanding… 😆

Although it's not on the plans, photos show a guard for the windlass gear and it's counter gear. In the early days of machinery there was not a lot of thought given to safety. It may be the ship was built without the guard and it was added later after a mishap. That was added to the model along with the quadrants and simulated shackles. The side plates of the chain were also painted with flat black. The original pawl for the windlass was missing. I'm waiting for that part from Model Shipways.


The jumbo jib horse and formast/mainmast eyebolts were added at this time.

The machinery is cruder than I would like. That's a limitation of the castings. Plus I would have to invest heavily in machine tools to make better ones. Or, as discussed previously, print the parts. While not perfect, the machinery adds pleasing detail to the model at viewing distance.
 

So, a few updates during my break from tying ratline knots. First, I made the remaining 3 gin blocks I need for the trusses on the topsail yards. They still need to be painted, but you can see how I made them from some of my (dwindling) stock of 1/32 x 1/64 brass.
 

 
I've also done almost all of the work on the main course yard. At 1/8" = 1 foot, 1 inch ironwork would be 0.25 mm thick, and most of available sizes of brass were way more than that, so I made the iron bands from copper tape that I cut to the proper width. For the mast bands and the yardarm ironwork I took the approach shown at the top of Fig 73 below - basically use the tape to create the bands/ironwork, then drill holes in the band and put in eyebolts to represent the attachment points that were more like those shown at the top of Fig 72 from the instructions.
 

 
The truss was made from 1/32 by 1/16 brass that I drilled a hole in, and then inserted a brass belaying ping in (having cut off most of the pin's head) to act as the link between the truss and the mast band. It was glued onto the yard, and the copper tape "iron bands" wrapped over the mounting point for extra strength, and to mimic the attachment points between the truss and band. I tried a bunch of ways to make the sheet fairlead. At the end of the day, I drilled a hole in the yard, inserted an eyebolt, and then used the eyebolt to guide the copper tape that represents the mast band that the fairlead is attached to. I think it turned out okay, and will look better once painted. The yard currently looks like the below:
 

 

 
I'm still missing the iron sheet block. Several fabrication methods have thus far failed, so I'm going to get some thin sheet styrene to make the two sides of the block body, and I have some parrel beads that should actually be a pretty good set of "rollers", either glued in place, or using a small nail to allow them to rotate. We'll see what works.
 
So, the plan for the moment is to finish up the main and fore course yards, and then get tying knots again. I've been thinking about the best way to start raising the yards, and I think I'm going to work fore to aft, finishing each mast (including the gaffs, but not the braces) before moving on. The logic here is that the bulk of the rigging is to the rear of the masts, so it will be the most accessible that way. I'll probably break up the tedium with more yards, and hopefully I can start on the running rigging pretty quickly once the ratlines are done. We shall see.
 
As always, thanks for looking in!
 
Regards,
George K
 
 
 

The machinery is mounted. The dimensions on the drawing were pretty close. The boom crutch needed a little adjustment. There's a certain amount of fudging due to the crudeness of the parts. To make the parts sturdy I put locating holes in the supports and deck, then placed pins in them. I had previously left the bottoms of the windlass, boom crutch and counter gear supports unpainted. PVA was used to cement them in place. Some touch-up was needed after handling them extensively while positioning.
 
Because the machinery is non-operating, I was able to simplify installing the chain. Normally a chain has a master link inserted to tie it together. At this scale that would be very difficult. As it happened the chain broke again during installation. Luckily, it broke at exactly the right length. That saved another chain repair. To tie the ends, they were placed as they would lie on the sprocket and glued in place. the sprocket was then rotated so the glued ends were out of sight. I put a little CA on the other sprocket just make it more robust. The chain droops very realistically. Just like the photos.
 
There is still the guard on the gears, the quadrants and the windlass pawls to install. I may also paint the chain side plates. The real chain would not have been shiny like the roller chain. That will also make the chain a little sturdier. Then it's back to cabinet making.

 

While I'm on the machinery track I decided to work on mounting the windlass and gear train. The sprocket that came with the chain set is the right size for the counter shaft sprocket. Much better than the supplied part. The axle hole was too large though. I filled it with epoxy and drilled it to the correct size. Once painted it will look great.
 
There's some head scratching to be done getting the position correct. After scaling the drawing details and doing some calculations I came up with the following:

To check these dimensions I set the parts up on my bench and used double sided tape to hold them in place. Unfortunately the chain broke and I'll have to go back to chain repair before mounting on the ship. Here's what it looks like:

Hi Hermann,
 
That would require a 3-D printer. While they are quite inexpensive now and a wide range of programs are available, that would take away part of the fun and interest of building ship models. After all, why not say "3-D print the entire ship"? One could get super accuracy and detail with little effort.
 
But where is the challenge? Where is the skill? The sense of accomplishment? The creativity that comes from solving problems? That's like watching sports instead of playing sports.
 
I've certainly been tempted. It would be so much easier to get to a high level of detail. There would also be less satisfaction and enjoyment. I don't build models to simply produce. I build for the joy it brings me.
 
I spent two days figuring out the best way to build the skylight and building then painting it. When it was finished I was full of joy and rushed upstairs to show it to my wife whose reaction was, shall we say, underwhelmed. But she understood my joy and shared in my delight. I could have designed and printed that part in great detail in a couple hours but the enjoyment would have been proportionally less.
 
John

The skylight shown on the plans is, again, much different than the one in photos of the ship. I like the one in the photos. The one on the plans would more likely be found on a passenger ship than a working boat. Much to fancy. The one in the photos is easier to make. It also has the has a hinged lid. That will add more interesting detail to the model. Here's the one in the photo;

It's not clear what type of air vent is on the side. Could be a shutter or angled vents. Or even a round hole that simply doesn't show well in the photo. I decided to go with a round port as shown on the plans. Inconsistent I know. Builders choice!
 
A solid block was again used. Two pieces of scrap were glued together to get the height. Then the block was cut and sanded to size.
Because there will be an open top, it was necessary to cut out the interior partly as it will show. The drill press with a milling tool was used to hollow out the block. I didn't cut all the way through to retain strength.

The box was then shellacked, sanded and primed. Because all four sides and the top are being painted, holding the piece while airbrushing was a problem. The pieces are so small and light they blow away when hit with the airbrush. This was solved by using double sided tape to hold the work piece on some scrap that I could then hold with my hand while painting. This had the further advantage that I could turn it to the optimum angle for painting. The inside bottom was painted flat black. Then masked while the white was sprayed.

The top was made from scrap of the appropriate thickness. In the photo the top is a different color than the bottom. Given the trim color seems to be burnt umber, I used that for the top. Makes a nice contrast. 

While the paint dried I cut some small pieces of 3mm brass tubing for the airports and blackened it.

Next the coaming was glued to the bottom. I didn't bother with mitering as that detail would not be visible. I glued the coaming strip to opposite sides and trimed. then glued coaming to the remaining sides. After the glue dried it was masked, sanded and the dark gray color applied. Again the tape on a stick method was used for paint application.

A small brass wire was used for the prop holding the top open. The top was epoxied on for strength. The top is open just enough you can see the light from the airport. Here's the result...

Started today working on the fore gaff.  The kit comes with laser cut jaws.  I used the material originally supplied to assemble the dories as shims to center the jaw on the gaff.  Once assembled, I set this aside to let the glue dry.
 

 
I wanted to finish the bowsprit, or at least paint it and install it so I could eventually install the traveler block.   I originally installed the two strips of wood on either side of the center line of the bowsprit but was unhappy with how it turned out so I removed them and tried again.  In removing them, I did a little damage but I think I cleaned it up OK.  I contemplated scrapping and starting over again but decided it wasn't necessary.
 

 
While studying the drawings I discovered that I had yet to install the deadeyes on the ship's rails.  So I wrapped them in the 0.014" dia wire.  It was a little fiddly but went pretty well non the less.
 

 
I had some issues drilling holes and installing them properly.  I purchased a set of micro drill bits off Amazon and found "a deal".  However, they weren't the best quality and they broke pretty quickly.  So I started drilling with the correct size, broke it, switched to another size, broke it, etc. etc.  Also, because I hadn't installed the main rail and monkey rail with the accuracy required, I couldn't install the deadeyes in the proper locations on the external edge.  As such, I'm not sure if I will add the metal straps below the deadeyes.  It won't align properly and think it would look worse instead of adding more realism to the finished model.
 

 
 

Thanks for the feedback! Maybe the thinking was "outside the box", but the patience not so much. As my lost fingerprint testifies.
 
To answer your questions;
 
The steersman would have been facing forward both to see where the ship was headed and to view the compass which is on the roof of the deckhouse. Also there is usually a telltale at the top of the mainmast for wind speed and direction. If he were to stand forward of the wheelbox it would be awkward to reach behind to grasp the wheel.
The only convenient spot to work the wheel and see the compass would be behind the wheel or to the side of it.
 
Other photos where the deck around the wheelbox is visible do not have a grate. There would have been no point in other places anyway. These ships were about practicality first and foremost. Any decoration would be secondary. Remember, Bluenose was designed as a work boat.
 
An interesting observation is how the steering mechanism worked. If you look at the steering mechanism on sheet 4 of the Model Shipways plans you will see that it's a double screw drive with the leverage on the wheel side. A screw drive prevents rudder feedback from moving the wheel, while the wheel can easily move the rudder. This means that in open water the steersman could leave his post and help with other operations. Barring changes in wind or currents the ship would stay on course. It also means operating the wheel does not require great strength.
 
RetiredGuy did a wonderful job of producing a working scale steering mechanism. Check out his Bluenose.
 
John

There is a grate by the ships wheel for the steersman. I suppose this is to keep their feet dry when water is sloshing across the deck. The one in photos has what looks like 2 or 3 inch square holes.

The plans do not show much detail. Rather than try to create such small square holes I opted to buy some grate material. The smallest I could find was 1mm. This is bigger than scale but at least the holes will be square. My first thought was to have the notches interlock as the prototype probably did. This did not give a good appearance and would be too thick. A better effect is made by placing them side by side.

The strips are laser cut and there is an angle to the shape so that one side of the strip is thinner than the other. That can be seen in the photo above.
The thicker side was chosen as the detail will disappear at viewing distance with the thin side.
These were tricky to glue together. They are so light and tiny they tend to stick to anything that touches them. I experimented with a number methods. I got the best result by using double-sided tape to hold them in place while gluing. Cyno was used as I could use a pin to drop tiny amounts of glue on the joints. As usual it was pretty messy. The problem is to get it all in place before the cyno set.

Unfortunately, after all pieces were in place I touched it before the cyno had quite set. I then had a perfectly nice grate attached to the end of my index finger.
The physical stress of getting it off my finger would be too much for this fragile assembly. I glued a paper to the bottom of the grate with PVA. After that set, I went to work with alcohol and a scalpel. The paper gave it enough strength to get it off my finger with no damage to the grate and little to my finger.
I then glued the end pieces on and trimmed them to size. The next step was to gently scrape the paper off and clean out the holes.

The grate looks nice, though the holes are a little big.

 

Taking a brief break from tying ratlines and starting to make some the yards. Trying an experiment to see if this is easier than the way I made the yards on the Niagara. I start by marking the dowels that will become the yards, indicating the end of the yard, the iron band on the yardarm, and three lines at the center that defines the center itself and the iron bands that the trusses are attached to. I also marked the location of the holes that I need for the jackstay eyebolts.
 

 
I then went in and drilled all the jackstay eyebolt holes using my drill press (Santa was very good to me this year)
 

 
From there it was off to my mini-lathe to turn the yards. Of the first three, I think that the fore and main turned out fine (bottom and middle in the picture, but I'm going to bin the mizzen which is just a mess. It was half the diameter of the main and needed a gentler hand, I suspect.
 

 
A couple of things I learned. One is that I should have drilled the jackstay eyebolt holes larger, they often gotten filled in the process of turning the yard, to the point where I could barely or couldn't find them. I still think that drilling first is the right idea, I just need to actually make the hole a little bigger so it will survive the sanding. The other thing is that I really need to be careful about putting pressure on the yard with the sandpaper. One reason I'm binning the mizzen is that the narrow point between the yardarm and the unmodified wood snapped just as I was finishing up, and it was because I put too much pressure on. I still think that cutting the yardarms first is the correct move (it gives me a nice template to work against, but care is required.
 
Thanks for looking in,
George K
 

Added the mooring chocks and anchor pads. Airbrushed the mooring chocks flat black and the anchor pads the dark grey coaming trim color. Scraped the paint from a small area under the pads and chocks to increase adhesion. As these small exposed pieces tend to get knocked off epoxy was used for strength.

For the Galley stack I like the "Dreadnought head" supplied with the kit. The Britannia metal part was not a bad casting, but there were no holes in the pipes. My first thought was to use a milling tool to cut the holes.

This did not work out well. It was difficult to clamp the part at the correct angle. More importantly, the Britannia metal did not mill well. It tends to smear and the tool was prone to wander off axis when I started getting deeper into the metal. I decided to cut the pipes off and epoxy brass tubing onto the part. To get the correct fit the pipe molding was first sawed in half with a jewelers saw. A round file was used to cut the rest of the way and create a proper shape to hold the tubing.

The brass tubing was epoxied in place. Then repeat for the other side.

After some cleaning and polishing the part was primed and painted flat black. A small base was constructed with a hole drilled in the center as show on the plan. Looked pretty good in the end. With real holes!

I have finished the aft deck!!  The nibbing strakes went much better this time around vs the fore deck.  Still some opportunities, but much less modification needed to make everything fall into place.  
 
Work in process...

Finished decks...



Still some final sanding to do and touch up paint on the waterways.  Moving on to building all of the rest of the deck furniture.  
 
Tim

To make the hatches, I again used solid blocks. Double sided tape was used to fasten two pieces of scrap together. The bottom block protects the X-Y table from damage when cutting through the finish piece. A milling tool was used to cut out shapes to size. A slight over size was left to allow for sanding. The corners of the blocks were rounded as shown on the plans using sand paper.

The blocks were sanded smooth, coated with shellac and sanded again to get a nice finish.

The airbrush was used to put on a primer coat. The backside of an Xacto knife was used to score the blocks, simulating coaming and covers. In retrospect this didn't work well for cross-grain scores. It would have been better to use the knife side first to cut the grain, then score the block. The results were pretty good and acceptable at viewing distance. Next dark grey was sprayed on the coamings. After the paint thoroughly dried Tamiya masking tape was used to protect the coaming and the hatch cover color was sprayed.

After that, holes were drilled for the tie-down rings as shown on the plans. The result looks good.

Once again the supplied plans do not agree with photos. The actual hatch looked quite different and there are no tie-down rings. However, the hatches on the plans are more visually interesting. Of course the ship may have been originally built like the plans and later additions and modifications to the hatches made.

Today I finished up the main mast.
 
For the chafing piece for the boom jaws, I had a piece of brass tubing that I cut to length and slid on the mast.  
 

 
I installed the 4 chocks, cutting pieces out of 1/16" x 1/8" basswood.  I also made sure I installed the mast hoops first.  I found that the quantity of mast hoops I had didn't total the same quantity that shows on the drawing.  Not sure what to do, I simply divided the total quantity by 2 and used half on the main mast and will put the other half on the foremast.  Hopefully I can make it work from there.
 

 
The drawing shows a white band at the bottom of the mast called a Canvas Mast Coat.  I had some spare fabric and cut a strip to suit and glued it on.
 

 
I still haven't permanently installed the main mast.  Probably won't until all the masts, booms etc are done.
 

 
I think I will work on the bowsprit or the fore boom and gaff before tackling the foremast.

Well, it turns out that once you get started, the ratlines go faster than you originally thought. I was hoping for 3 weeks on the rest of the port side, and finished in 2, so, not too bad. Some photos of the ship overall and separate masts, although, I find it doesn't look all that different with and without the ratlines, at least at a macro level.
 

 

 

 

 
I'm about to make the first of the yards, seeing as I should only be few weeks away from finishing the ratlines. Step 1 was just to build out a table with the actual dimensions of the yards, the yardarms, and the diameter at center and iron bands and their corresponding scale size. I pulled the values off the plans, but they are also in the article from the Boston Daily Atlas that Lars Bruzelius transcribed (http://www.bruzelius.info/Nautica/News/BDA/BDA(1851-11-04).html). For me, given that there are 15, all different yards, this is way easier than doing the calculations one at a time from the plans. I will note that in the section marked 'Scale (in) - frac', I selected the nearest measurement that I could realistically build to.
 

 
A couple of observations/questions. First, the plans suggest that all of the spars used 3/4 inch iron rod as a jackstay. Was it common to use the same size jackstay on all the yards? I mean the mizzen skysail was only 6.5" at the center and 4.25" at that iron band that demarcates the beginning of the yardarm, that seems, I dunno, kind of overbuilt for the size of the spar. Given the physical properties of the materials, an iron jackstay with a spar attached if you will.
 
Second, the kit has a really weird set of Britannia fittings. There are 4 (nominally 3), identically sized "upper yard trusses" and that is it. Given that there are 9 yards secured with trusses, and six yards that use (hopefully correct term here) truss cranes to attach the yard to the halyards, so, I'd need 15 of these, not 4 or 3. Given that they are all different sizes, and the kit has 1/32 thick brass, I guess I'll just scratch build them (although I see that bluejacket has 3 sizes of trusses - so if the scratch ones are a disaster, I can default back to those).
 
Third, was the use of a deadeye on a shroud or backstay as a truck for fairleads a McKay thing? Usually I see this as a board attached across multiple shrouds. Just curious - another one of those repeat tasks, a bit of a nuisance (I think I need 34 of them total). 
 
Finally, the instructions say to leave out the course clew and reefing tackle if you aren't going to install sails. Is that common? When I rigged the Niagara the instructions suggested (and I followed) including the clew and reefing tackle, and attaching the clew garnet to the reefing tackle. Was this just the difference between 1813 and 1851 or just two ways that one can handle the situation? Above the course, I need the clew to have something to attach the sail end of the sheet so they will be there - it just feels a little asymmetrical, but if they were really removed I'll probably leave them off.
 
As always, thanks for looking in!
 
Regards,
George K.