bhermann

Hi Bob,
I been getting up to speed on your build.  Great details. She's very impressive!  Can't wait to see the sails. 
 
best
marc 

On to bending the driver.  I wanted to have the driver attached before stepping the mizzen.  I made more hanks using the jig described earlier in the log.  why I didn't make all of the hanks at the same time, I'll never know! I built the channel for the hanks to slide on as well as attached the hanks to the driver.  I used photos of the cutty to make sure of the detail. I have an observation. I shot around 200 photos and still don't have the shots that I need. 
 

 
 
With the driver rigged, I stepped the mizzen mast.  I used toothpicks for the wedges.  

 
Thanks for looking!!
marc

So a quick update on my progress. I have completed all the channels. I also closed of the rear 3 gun ports on both sides and installed the quarter davits. The quarter davits were pretty straight forward as they were all kit parts for the most part. I have a few more hull details to work on going forward. The steps leading up to the entry ways, the studding boom brackets (no clue yet on how to do these), the rudder and then the bow carvings. I've put the bow carvings off for a while now. I'm not sure yet about how I will do them as the kit provided part isn't ideal. This would have been a good place for a photo etch part. As with a lot of things I've had to do for this model, just about everything I'm doing on this model from this point forward is the first time I'm doing it like ever, so I must proceed with caution.
 
The channels.

The quarter davits. 

Boat time again!
 
I had previously attached the boats to the chalks and checked it's location and fit of the supports with the pinrails.  I continued with adding the lines and chains, fastening the boats to the eyebolts.   As you can see, I did the work off the ship using some plastic containers to allow me easy access to all of the eyebolts.  The next step will be adding the studding sail yards, spars, and accommodation davit.  If I can fit all of that stuff on the beams. 

 

 

 


 
 

hello everyone,
 
thanks for your support Harry!  I've been learning to use the lathe.  I've been accomplishing turning threads at the correct pitch and turning rods to the correct diameter within a 1/10000 of an inch. I have a way to go to before tackling anything of substance.  working on skills.  I'd like to make some parts for my tiny wood working lathe (like a following rest) and make some jigs for modeling.  Eventually I want to turn the ships bells, stanchions for the rails, sheaves and maybe cannon and  belaying pins. 
 
Sorry, I haven't posted.  Unfortunately, I've been working long hours as a result of COVID-19 and when I've had time off, I wasn't overly productive and didn't feel like being in front of a computer screen.  I don't think I checked email more than once a month.   Anyway, I have worked on the Model some when I can get myself motivated - seem to be in a funk and extremely tired.  Then I moved my home work environment from my house in Virginia to my house in Florida for the month. 
 
On to rigging - 
I continued work on rigging the mainmast.  I continued with rigging the ratlines, using templates created for both sides.   

 
The template is designed to be up against the shrouds to align the ratlines. The view of the template isn't aligned with the ratlines in the photo (its leaning against the mast, so the ratlines don't line up with the correct template lines. 
  
You might notice that there are two groups of lines red and black.  I screwed up which was evident when I checked the port and starboard alignment and height above the deadeyes.  The red lines are the corrections to the spacing. 
 

 
port side

 
some views of the foremast and the pin rails. You can see the serving of the main stay.
 

 

 
a view of the fore top from aft.  can see the 

 
Next is some work on the ship's boats
thanks
Marc

Continuing work on the masts. I'm simplifying much of the hardware on the masts by using paper strips and eyebolts, but at the same time not eliminating any of it. That will allow me attach all of the rigging yet stay within my comfort zone.
 
Nevertheless it's not possible to avoid all of the metal work and I soldered brass strips for the mast caps.

 
This is not my forte, nor of much interest me, but I thought the mast caps needed to be structural.
I have also learned from experience not to use basswood for the crosstrees when they are quite long as they are on the Bluenose; they are quite likely to break during rigging and then of course, they're very difficult to repair or replace. Some walnut will work better.
 

 
The fore mast in particular has a lot of points of attachment.

 
I have always had trouble attaching futtock shrouds to the mast without making a big oversized mess, so I have developed my own, (not entirely authentic) method, that leaves a neater appearance. Instead of wire, I use rigging line. (I can never seem to get wire to stay straight or taut.) At the point of attachment, I drill a largish hole all the way through the mast. Once the lines are attached to the bullseyes or deadeyes on the crosstrees, I draw every line all the way through the one hole and out the other side. In this case, two lines passing through left to right and two lines passing through right to left. I glue them in place and then trim them flush.
 
 

 
Another hardware feature on this model is a number of turnbuckles. If I had noticed them on the Bluejacket website sooner, I would have just bought them and added them to my last order. However, I didn't so I had to figure out how to represent them. I have seen a few builders making quite realistic ones out of brass and Tom Lauria has a video where he makes unbelievably detailed ones. This was out of the question for me, but nevertheless I wanted to represent them.
 
The main objective for me is to get them small enough. If they are oversized, I think it ruins the look. Id' prefer to have them look a bit fake, rather than be oversized. I decided to use two small eyebolts attached to a central "cylinder" but I couldn't come up with what to use for a cylinder that was small enough yet still allowed me to drill holes for the eyebolts. The central part of the turnbuckle should be just 5/32" long. Here is what I came up with. The cylinder is a piece of solder. I drilled a hole in each end and glued in the eyebolts. I then gave the solder a squeeze with my pliers to slightly flatten them. I think when these are incorporated into the rigging they will be ok. They aren't perfect, but at least they are exactly the right size which I think is half the battle.
 

 
That's it for now. Many thanks for checking in, "like" etc.
David

With respect to the "unidentified object" on the deck, I emailed the people at Bluenose II and received an answer this morning. They confirmed that the object is the lazarette hatch. You were right on the money, jamcdonel!
 
This made me curious about the word lazarette which seems like an odd word. I was surprised to discover that it is a reference to Lazarus. If Wikipedia is to be believed, on old ships this area below deck was originally where bodies of "important" passengers and crew were stored rather than being buried at sea. More recently, it refers to the area where the steering mechanism is located.
 

I am working on the top deck and started with the hawse timbers and knighthead.  This is the drawing from LB Jenson.

 
They are made from multiple timbers stacked at an angle.  I took a stack of 1/4" wood and glued them together.

 
Then carved and sanded the piece.  View of the outside and inside.  On the inside only the flat surface matters as it is glued to the keel.


This is before installation and after:
 

 

One small detail the LB Jenson drawings do not correctly show is the way the bearded line moves further from the rabbit as we approach the shear.  this is because the shear plank intersects the keel at a flatter angle than the planks below it.
 
Finally a shot of the deck beams I am fabricating.  They are just resting in place right now, once I fab all the beams I will cut the mortises for the cross beams and carlings.
 

 
It is starting to get warm here and my workshop does not have air conditioning.  I have really enjoyed the spring.  Take care and thanks for the kind comments.
 

Good Morning All,
A little progress to report:
 
I've now finished all of the deck details and all have been added except the boom crutches and the catheads, for fear of breaking them. I'll add them at a later point.
 

 

 
I built new catheads, because the included cast ones are too fragile and it's almost impossible to attach the various items to them. I'll paint these white and add them a little later.
 

 
There is a lot of metal work on all the spars of the Bluenose, so I had to make a decision as to how best to replicate it. I know that many modelers have done very impressive brass work to recreate all the bands, shackles and the like. That is not a good option for me because I know I could not do a good enough job at the necessary scale. A lot of messy overscaled brass work would not be an asset, so I've chosen to simplify it considerably and represent the metal work with construction paper, eyebolts and in some cases, brass wire. While not completely accurate in every case, I know the overall effect will be better.
 
My first inclination was to use black construction paper for the bands, but I noticed that the plans indicate that the bands are supposed to be all either galvanized or painted white. So I went searching for photos and while there are many of the hull and deck available, there are almost none of the masts and rigging that are clear enough to be an indication. However I did find this one:

 
To my eye it looks like the bands are a little darker than the white spreaders but certainly not black. I took this as an indication that they are galvanized metal, so that's how I chose to represent them. I painted black construction paper with aluminum metallic paint.
 


 

 
While looking at these pictures, it also appeared to me that the mast hoops are white, so I painted mine. (They are a nightmare to paint by the way.)
 

 

 
I attempted one other detail with the mast coats. The plans indicate that they are covered with canvas, so I applied teflon plumbers' tape, then painted it off white. It doesn't show up in the picture, but I added a little texture to it by pressing it with sandpaper. The overall effect isn't especially great, but on the other hand, it's not terrible either.
 
The shiny metal piece around the mast mast is a piece from a coffee can seal. It was just the right weight for the job.
 
So that's it for now. It's nice and cool in my basement. The outside temperature is in the low 30's today, so it's too hot to do too much out there.
David
 
 

The ship is out of the fixture, never to return,  so I built a simple stand that allows me to rotate the model side to side.  It holds the ship level at the waterline.

 
Here I am installing the lower deck beams, the aft main cabin beams have not been installed yet
 

 
These lower deck beams were relatively easy to make.  First I cut strips of wood that were the same width of the beam and the other sided dimension was the max height of the longest beam in its middle.  I slide the strip of wood between the frames and rest it on the lower deck shelf, then trace the frame onto the beam with a pencil.  Rough Cut the beam out with the band saw, touch up on the disc sander and test fit, finally a little cleanup with a sanding block.  I make a mark on the ends of the beams to insure a 1/8" height where they rest on the frames and deck shelf. Then I take the beam camber template shown below and trace the curve of the deck beam with a pencil, then take it down to shape with the spindle sander.  I use a straight edge to insure all the deck beams are the same height, then glue into place.  Making a beam takes about a minute.  However the main deck beams are going to be tougher for a couple of reasons.  I have to cut mortises in most, and I need to insure they are properly sized and level across the entire deck.  That is, I need to take greater care as the how well the deck turns out depends upon the precision of the beams.
 
Below is the beam camber template with the top camber on one side, and the beams bottom concavity on the other.  The ends of the beams are 1/8", the radius of the top camber is 40 inches and the radius of the concavity on the bottom is 70 inches, so the beams are thicker in the middle.
 

 
All of the below deck beams are complete.
  
 
At this point I suppose one could continue building out below decks: plank the flooring, install the stoves, mess table, bunks, galley, stock the store room, etc.  I will leave that to the next builder and will move on to the main deck beams, the knightheads, the timbers around the bow and stern hawse pipes etc.
 
 

What I understand, it is still an "unidentified object" or UDO as I would call it.... "unidentified deck object".
I don't think we have got the explanation to it....
Maybe there is, and it just passed me by..

Keith,
 
My pictures are a little deceiving and do not represent the actual construction sequence.  There are several pictures taken in the early stages of construction with the assembly out of the fixture. I lifted the ship out of the fixture a few times to take pictures, but I don’t recommend it.  I got lucky and did not break or distort anything. The ship was out of the fixture for only a few moments, a few times, before I took the last “picture in the fixture”. All fabrication and gluing of the frames to the keel and the clamps to the frames etc. was done in the fixture.  There are also a couple of pictures where I am showing some custom made screw clamps, I should have said this was for illustration only, as the actual construction was all done in the fixture. I am like the kid that can’t wait until Christmas to open his presents, I wanted to see what the ship was going to look like free of the fixture.
 
Love your work, by the way

I have installed all of the frames and have been able to breath a sigh of relief, this was a little nerve racking as each frome had to be positioned just right.  The fixture worked out really well.  Below I am installing the clamps to the frames.  "Clamps" are the timbers that tie all the frames together at the deck.  Don't confuse them with my colorful Harbor Freight clamps. 
 

 
 To install the lowest "clamp"  I used some custom made 3D printed screw clamps that were designed to fit between the frames
 

 
Here is a view from the outside of the frames.
 

 
Once the three "clamps" are glued to the top of the frames, the "shelf" is bonded to the top most "clamp".  This shelf then supports the deck beams.  Throughout the build I have taken some liberties, but in the case of the shelves I cut them to 4" lengths as this is 16' in scale and realistically timber does not come much longer than this.  Each shelf piece was sanded on the side that is glued to take on the curve of the hull and to present a level top side for the beams.
 
Below is what I call the last "picture in the fixture".  See if you can identify: The lower deck shelves , there are three sets, the main cabin, the fish hold and the foc's'le.  How about the mast steps, the sister keelsons, and one lone deck beam.
 

 
Now I will be fabricating a whole bunch of deck beams.
 
 
screw clamps top.bmp

As I am building the ship, I am also working ahead on the 3D model and the plans.  The next assembly task will be to install the lower deck beams, the upper deck beams, and the carlings.  Here are the lower deck beams for the main cabin, the fish hold and the fo's'cle.  The samson post can also be seen near the bow.

 
Then the main deck beams.  I am still working on the aft beams, but you get the idea.
 

 
Here is a cutaway view of the deck beams to come.
 

 

Hello All,
I little more work on the deck details. Here is the mechanism that operates the windlass.
 
 
This is a little bit tricky, mainly because the cast parts are so poorly done. I like MS kits on the whole, but I have to say that these parts are not really very good.  It's odd to me that a number of the gears are all molded on the axle as one piece. This would be ok, except for the fact that one gear is molded separately but needs to be located on the axle between two of the already molded in place gears.
 
So, the piece needs to be cut. Probably for the best anyway. The axle is so small and fragile that it's easy to break it in any case. I ended up cutting off all of the gears and drilling holes through them and using brass rod as the axle.
 
I was worried about the placement of all the components, but the trick was to start with the bowsprit and get it and its post correctly located, then simply work backwards from there.
 
I used a piece of fine copper chain that I had for the chain drive and I built up the starboard side of the windlass with wooden pieces and the port side with small styrene strips.
 

 

 

 

 
 
David

They say that in life there are only two certainties - death and taxes. Well, I think there are four - death, taxes, you will get an email today from Model Expo and your fife rail will crumble at even the lightest touch.
 
Obviously, I've been working on the deck details and for some reason, even though there aren't all that many, it's been slow going. I've all but finished them now except for the complicated bit of machinery that connects the motor to the windlass that looks like it was designed by Rube Goldberg. It may be simpler than it seems; I haven't quite given it my undivided attention yet.
 
Apart from having to build the fife rail from scratch, the components have all been straightforward to build.
 

 

 
The skylight in the old pictures was quite different from the one in the plans. Mine more closely matches the photos rather than the plans and I've use black rigging line for the bars.
 

 
So, here's how I arrived at my painting scheme for the parts. I rely on the notes in the plans to a large degree and everything is indicated as being either "white" or "burnt umber." Burnt umber is a paint colour, so I took it to mean that it's painted dark brown, rather than left a natural finish. I'm pretty sure that the plans would have said "natural mahogany" or "douglas fir" or something like that if it was meant to be a natural finish.
 

 

 
I have gathered together a number of old photos of the Bluenose and for the most part the plans are very consistent with the photos.  In a couple of cases where there are discrepancies, I've opted for the paint scheme in the photos. I don't think it means the plans are wrong but rather that the details were painted slightly differently at different times.
 

 
The dories were not difficult to build. The little framing system that the kit provides works very well. There are eight dories provided, but I think I will only use four of them - two stacks of two. They looked a bit odd to me stacked four high. Of course, it's only the top two that need to be finished inside.
 
So, that's it for now as I try to figure out the conglomeration of gears etc that go together at the bow.
 
Thanks for looking in!
David

Here is the nutshell version of my Bluenose build log to date. I previously had this build log on another forum, which I have now left and want to get it up and running here.
Hull, Deck and Rails:


 
The early stages of this build are very quick and easy. It’s not a difficult hull to plank. The deck is not too challenging either. I never know how best to finish the deck. Basswood takes a stain so poorly, so this time I simply used amber shellac which seems to work well enough.

I know that many builders have found that the stern section of the rail doesn’t fit property. Mine didn’t quite fit either, so it necessitated making a new stern section.
I did the rest of the rail in sections.

The buffalo rail at the bow is an easy detail to add.



The monkey rail which wraps around the stern and half way down the main rail is a bit tricky.
I laminated two thin strips to make the curved portion at the stern.
Deadeyes:


I had to make a decision about how to approach the deadeyes. On the real Bluenose, they are secured with a bit of hardware that sits between the deadeye and the rail (not sure what it’s called.) The options were to try to recreate it with some brass wire, which I have seen many modelers do, or omit this detail altogether or opt for these cast pieces from BlueJacket.
As you can see, I opted for the cast pieces. They capture the look of the real thing and I knew that I could never recreate the effect successfully myself without it looking too big and awkward.
Chainplates:

According to the plans and as shown in this picture, the chainplates are flush with the hull.

The integral chainplates with these deadeyes would have been long enough to use them for the fore mast, but were too short to use for the main mast. On top of that, I knew I would never be able to inlay all twenty of them skillfully enough, so I cut them off at the waist

I added strips of black construction paper.
 

 
When all painted, it’s a compromise that I can easily live with.
 
I used 1/16” masking tape for the white stripe, but I wasn’t sure how I was going to do the yellow stripe. According to the plans, the stripe is actually a groove running the length of the hull and is very narrow. There is almost no space above the scuppers to fit in and I was convinced it had to be very narrow to look right.
So again, I made a compromise. I actually used a piece of styrene strip, .01” x .04” I painted it yellow, then glued it on. It's not strictly speaking correct, but if gives the effect and I know I could not have achieved a neater look any other way.
Decoration:

I practiced painting the decorations on black paper with a template cut out to the size and shape with key reference points marked.
 

From a normal viewing distance of let’s say 50’ 🤗 it won’t look too bad.

 
For the stern lettering I opted for the Masonic emblem rather than the Odd Fellows emblem. It was the Masonic one that it was launched with. I outlined my detective work on this subject in a separate thread:
 

 
https://modelshipworld.com/topic/24244-bluenose-and-the-masons/?tab=comments#comment-713347
 
So that catches everybody up. Now on to the deck details.
Thanks for looking in!
David
 

Seeing the Bluenose II off the starboard beam of our cruise ship last fall, sparked my desire to build a model of her. She was an awesome sight and I was convinced this would be a great project.  Then I started to do some research and figured I needed to cut my teeth on some simpler builds.  I purchased Steve Rogers “Model Boat Building Made Simple” and built my first rowing skiff.  I had so much fun I went on to build his “Spritsail Skiff” and am now working on his “Skipjack”. But in the back my mind, the Bluenose II was a constant presence.
 
Using the measured drawings from L. B. Jenson and Gene Bodnar’s wonderful Modeling Practicum, “The Queen of the North Atlantic ―The Schooner Bluenose”, I started lofting a 3D model of the Bluenose II in SolidWorks. This has taken me almost a month. It is amazing how intimate one becomes with the lines of a hull through the process of creating a 3D model.  I had many false starts, but finally developed a simple set of equations and a table that describes the spline control points for all of the frames of her hull.
 
I imported and scaled the side view, top view as well as the hull lines as my starting point:
 
 
Resulting in my final model:
 





 
 
 
 
Now, as they say, it is time to make some sawdust:
 



 
Now I go into mass production mode as I need to make over 60 frames.  It is bizarre timing, but today I reported to work as usual and was immediately sent home due to the Covid-19 crisis.  My company is limiting on-site access and having us work from home.  I don’t know how that will work out, but at least I have some time to crank out more frames. 🙂

It has been a while since my last update but I haven't been idle. I finished up the netting. I ended up buying the tulle material from Hobby Lobby as recommended and used the LSS practicum method creating the netting. I couldn't think of a better way to do it. It definitely wasn't easy. The plans seem to indicate to run a piece of wire through the netting and the tiny holes in the photo etch pieces. Impossible, I tried.
 


Next, I moved on to the anchors and they are complete also. Pretty straight forward kit parts here. I used black construction paper for the bands. Its a borrowed idea and works great. I messed up a bit drilling the rigging holes through the catheads but it all worked out in the end. Lesson learned. Drill the holes "before" installing them on the model next time.
 


 

 
Next up are the channels. I've got the two aft channels in place. In the picture it may appear that the channel is up against the quarter gallery but its not, just perspective. I'm currently working on the remaining 4. That's it until next time.

 
 

I'm calling this done.   Sometimes you get to a point where you're afraid of going just too far, and messing up what you've done to that point.
 
The beak never really materialized, there's no feather texture on the neck and body, and the wing feathers could be better (well, everything could be better), but I'm happy with this, and I'm going to stop before I slip and make an irretrievable mistake--

 
Isopropyl alcohol is repeatedly swabbed over and around the eagle to loosen it--

 
And after a while, the eagle is released--

 
This afternoon, from my porch, I surprisingly saw this guy (or gal) hanging out in a tree across the street--

 
It stayed put long enough for me to run inside, grab my camera and move a little closer for a couple of shots--

 
Now, that's what the beak should look like!   Still, I took it as an good omen that I was done.
 
Ron 
 
 

Thanks Robin, do like to ask questions/opinions if information is not available or not being able to find on the web/books, I don't know to much on the Bluenose and it is nice to get feedback 👍
 
Thank you Schooners, to answer your question I use a Sherline  4" Rotary Table  combined with the Sherline Tilting Angle plate, the handle comes with 0 to 50, 50 is 5 deg so you can work out deg, minutes, and seconds  
 

 

 

 
I also bought a few Harvey Tool cutters ranging in sizes, some with radius and some with ball, great tool bits 
 

 
Have made quite a few things with these tools like brackets for 1:24 Hurricane legs
 

 

 
Regards
Richard

Thanks Phil!  So many things to learn in this hobby.  I'm enjoying the carving, though I can't imagine doing a ship with a lot more.  It's very slow going at this point.
 
Continuing to work on the overall relief areas--

 
At this point, I began thinking that the thickness of this piece from the "ground plane" of the flattened area was about right, and I needed to get rid of that "ground" and to reduce the overall height.  Rather than shave everything down from the top, I unglued this from the base, and rubbed it on sandpaper until that "ground" was paper thin and translucent (guessing I removed about 3/128ths of an inch!).  Then I glued it back, and trimmed what was left of the "ground" away.   Now I am continuing to work on developing the relief--
 
 
If you compare this to the last photo of the previous post, I think I improved the shape of the shield (the curve of the right side and top, which were too flattened before), but I may have somehow reduced the width of the eagle's neck too much. 
 
Ron

Made the square bearings as per Model Shipway drawings and then Casey Blacked all gears, bearings and shaft.
 

 
Then started to work on the wood whelps and that is when I found I had made the shaft wrong, while I was looking at the pictures I thought there was a step and when I glued the first ones I could see there was no room for the shaped whelps so re-machined a new shaft.
 

 
Started to make the riding Bitt, cheek and knees adding in the square hole for bearing, this I machined in the mill and all wood was Boxwood
 

 
Added the deck pads which I did not have the first time and filed chamfer to both Bitts and then glued knees to Bitts
 

 

 
After that I started back on the wood whelps for rope hawser, made as per LB Jenson book but the shaped whelps I went as the picture, made all wedges so total of 20 pieces made from Boxwood to make up rope hawser.
 

 

 

 
Installed gears to see how it looked at this stage and also to start making the double pawl, here is a picture of old and upgraded
 

 
Pawl bracket machined .134" x .210" base part was .012" thick and sides with holes was .010" thick, pawls were .076" wide and had a taper on each one 
 

 

 
Added four .013" holes in base so that I could add four bolts
 

 

 
Looking not to bad 
 

 

 
Next up was to work on the Chain Hawser started by making pie shape pieces to go around shaft and then machined the wooden sheave which go on the outside (I think it is called a sheave)
 

 

 

 
Last ting was to add the iron whelps, looking at the pictures I think there was four and that is what I have done, but looking at Model Shipway drawing I can see eight so does anyone know how many? I can easily add the other four. 
 

 

 
I am really glad I upgraded and enjoyed making all these parts.
 

 
Until next time
 
Regards
Richard

Made the hinges for the engine box, glue in place and they work well.
Did find out what engine they used, found it was a Acadian Co Bulldog 10 HP, gasoline fuel, make &break, magneto start  it was in the L.B Jenson box (if this is not allowed please delete) and found a picture of it on the web looks like it was red/orange.
 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 
Now that the gears are made for the boom crutch, I looked at the windlass I had built using the white metal parts and wooden parts that I added as per the drawings and thought this should be upgraded 
 
Drawing part of Model Shipways
 

 

 

 
Then looked at LB Jenson sketches and he had some specifications and sketches (these are to help with my build if not allowed please delete)
 

 
And on the bottom of this page it says Bluenose were fitted out as per drawing
 

 

 

 

 
Then looked back at the pictures which were taken just before she was sold 1946 we have three deference's (these are to help with my build if not allowed please delete)  
 
 
 

 

 
So I have gone with a bit here and there so started by machining a piece of boxwood to 17" dia real size 1/64 scale was .265" put a bevel on each end (which later found I did wrong) then drilled a .046" hole and put a shaft through.
 

 
Next up was to make the two ratchet bands size .485" dia x .046 wide then cut 36 teeth
 

 

 
Then made the windlass gear size was .656" x .056" wide and then cut 48 teeth this worked out to 7.5 deg gears fitted good, put it back in lathe using a piece of wood so that I could put it square to bore inside dia 
 

 

 
Machined the spider band which bolts to the windlass gear, then glued it to a piece of boxwood .265" so that I could machine the spider legs, same time drilled .013" holes in each leg
 

 

 

 
Marked some blue on the gear and filed little stick outs for the connection for spider band, next up was to bend the spider legs to fit the gear rim, then made a jig so that it  was nice and steady while I drilled the two together. 
 

 

 

 
Up next was the Pawl teeth band this I made as per L.B Jenson sketch which was for 13 teeth on an angle so machined size as per sketch size was .354" dia x .076" wide
 

 
Put it in the mill and offset the cutter and bit by bit got the teeth to look the way I wanted
 

 

 

 
Made two washers .014" thick to go either side of Pawl teeth
 

 
Again did enjoy making these gears it was fun figuring how to make them.
 
To be continued
 
Regards
Richard