bhermann

It's  been a while since my last update but work has progressed, albeit very slowly. 
 

I changed my mind (again) about removing the excess ABS, mainly because it would have been impossible to hold the internal stringer/gunwhale(?) in place with it sill there. So I went ahead and removed the excess ABS, and then positioned the stringer/gunwhale and the internal (fake) ribs. I also drilled out the hole for the propellor shaft and cut the access hole for the rudder support strip that extends from the keel. I decided to replace the kit-provided stuffing tube and propellor shaft with some after-market parts from Float-a-Boat in Melbourne (following the lead of Wayne (@a49kid)). At the same time, I ordered some universal joints and a brass propellor to replace the kit-provided plastic one. Unfortunately, with the additional thickness added by planking the entire hull, a propellor of the same size (40mm) will not fit. I’m still deciding as to the exact size that I will use, but it will be either 35mm or, more likely, 30mm.
 
The picture below shows the internal ribs in place along with the stuffing tube and propellor shaft temporarily positioned. I may well need to adjust the length of the stuffing tube/propellor shaft once I’ve got the steam plant sorted.
 

 
Before proceeding further with the hull, I needed to sort out the steam plant and its positioning/securing in the hull. That meant doing a trial run of the plant. I bought this plant from Miniature Steam Models (MSM) over 18 months ago and had not done any final assembly and testing to date. It comes almost fully assembled, requiring only the attachment of the steam line (from boiler to engine) and the gas line from gas tank to boiler. Unfortunately, for some reason the steam line was a few mm too short to be connected. This was very surprising as MSM have a very good reputation for quality. 
 
Anyway, I enlisted the assistance of a fellow Canberra modeler who is something of a guru on all things steam engines. He advised cutting the existing pipe and inserting a short joining section to make up the length required. He also very kindly machined up the required part and silver soldered it in place for me. The result can be seen in the picture below, highlighted by the red circle. We did a short test that proved the join was secure and together we are now conducting some “set-to-work” trials.
 

 
There are still a few other issues to deal with before proceeding with the hull, but I hope to resolve those in the next few days.

Jib, Balloon Jib and Jumbo Jib…
 
Balloon Jib


Balloon Jib Sheet belayed through snatch block to pin #41 Starboard side. 

Balloon Jib Halyard belayed pin #14 starboard side. 

Balloon Jib Sheet belayed (slack) through snatch block to pin #41 port. 
 
Jumbo Jib

Preparing Jumbo Jib Halyard Pendant Block. 

Jumbo Jib Halyard Tackle tied off to itself. 

Jumbo Jib Halyard Tackle installed starboard side. 

Jumbo Jib Halyard Blocks aloft…

Jumbo Jib Halyard belayed to Pin #13 port. 
 

Jumbo Jib Sheet Tackle belayed to Pin #5 on the Fore Mast Pin Rail. 

Prepared Topping Lift Tackle for Jumbo Jib Boom. 

Topping Lift installed…


Toping Lift belayed to pin #6 Fore Mast Pin Rail. 

With the exception of downhauls, The Jib Rigging is complete. 
 
Cheers 🍻 
 

Rigging the Jib…


 

Jib Sheet belayed through fair lead to Pin #12 (starboard)

Jib Sheet (port) belaying and fare lead located behind engine box. 🤨

Jib Sheet belayed to Pin #11 Port side. 

Jib Sheet (port) completed 


Jib Halyard Tackle tied off to itself. (port)

Jib Halyard fair leads. 

Jib Halyard belayed to Pin #16 (starboard) 

Jib rigging completed, with exception of the down haul. 
 
Onwards 🍻
 
 
 

Boarding steps--


 
I would have made the steps the full width of the hammock opening, but the carronade position wouldn't allow it.   The hammock position corresponds to Chappelle's sail plan drawing and also the location of the outboard boarding steps shown on the hull plan, but a little foresight may have warranted shifting the steps and opening just a bit.
 
Ron
 

The capstan bars are roughed in--

 
I need to soften some of the transitions between the square end and the rounded part, but they are dry fit into the capstan head, and on deck--




 
They'll also need a coat of Tung oil finish when done.   
 
The list is getting smaller of what is still needed before stepping the masts and starting the rigging.  At this point I still need some inboard boarding steps, and I think I'll make some mast collars.  I am also contemplating redoing the gratings, with a tighter grid.
 
All for now,
Ron
 

Finished the second planking, then removed pins then re-drilled re added pins for adding third planks.
 

 

This again worked well, now have all with three planks each side and pins removed to start last set of planks.
 

 

Thanks guys for looking in and the likes.
 
Regards
Richard 

Tim, 
 
Thanks for your comment. I usually use split rings but found them to be too out of scale. 


Here is a comparison, split ring at the top. 

Jib Sails…

Sewing on the Bolt Rope…

Attaching the Jib Tack…

Halyard Jib Head…

Sheet Lines Jib Clew…

Hanks made from .5mm Copper…


Blackened Copper Hanks…

Jib and Balloon Jib mounted…


Installing Hanks…

Curling Jibs with Fabric Stiffener…

Jumbo Jib with Bolt Rope…

50 more Hanks…

Jumbo Jib Mounted and lashed to the Boom. 

Jumbo Jib Halyard…

Jibs mounted, I will finish the jib running rigging before moving on to the Fore Sails. 
 
Cheers 🍻

Well, that's pretty much what I've been doing for the past week.  Really nothing done on the ship itself, just trying to soak in what many previous Bluenose build log builders have done regarding their rigging, masting and moving forward.  Wow!  A lot to take in, much more than I remember on my prior builds, but... they have not been as detailed and complicated.  Guess that's what we get when we reach for higher ground, right?  A few more challenges than before.  Ok... 
 
While I am researching others and coming up with my own game plan, I thought I would prep all of the blocks that may be needed for the Bluenose and began staining them.  Strung them on some thin line and dipped them in stain.  First, a bath in some pre-stain, then in some Minwax Golden Oak stain, which is what I also used for the masts.  Seemed right.  Also, I am replacing as much as I can of the kit-provided blocks with those that I got from Syren Ship Model Company, which I had used in my Ballahoo build and liked their quality.
 
      
 
Also, in the "What Did You Receive Today" category, after reading the pros and cons of sail construction, I ordered some Silkspan tissue for this Bluenose.  Found what seemed like a reputable vendor in Sig Manufacturing (out of Des Plaines, IL) and ordered two types of silkspan tissue, what they call a LIGHT version and a MEDIUM version, so I can determine which will be best for the sails when I get to them shortly.
 

 
And kudos to Sig's customer service!  I ordered these on Wednesday and received them today.  Two thumbs up!  I've still been a bit on the fence about whether I was going to do full sails or furled, but think I have convinced myself to do the full sails.  Could still convince myself to change, but... <shrug>  Either way, these silkspan sheets should look better than the kit-supplied cotton sail cloth... I HOPE! 

Thanks Joe, and all looking in.
 
The hammock cranes and cloth are done.   It was more work than I anticipated, but I think it was worth it.  I got some practice making jigs and drilling small holes on the mill, and I learned about Silkspan.
 
Here one side is done, and the other has been "strung".  I was tempted to leave it this way, but elected to complete both sides--

 
Done.   Work on the capstan bars continues--

 
Knotted boarding ropes hang over the boarding steps.  I don't know why Lieutenant Woolsey is falling all over the deck in the previous photos, but he's found his feet here.  I'll secure the ropes with a dot of glue on one of the lower steps, but for now the clips make them hang straight and give the idea--

 
I am reminded of something I read about Oneida being reported by an early crew member (I think) as being a "warm cozy" ship.  They were probably talking about below deck, but the more enclosed and protected feeling with the hammocks in place on the rails does give me that impression--
   

 
All for now,
Ron

Continuing on with the sail rigging...Fore sail and fore top sail next, starting from the bottom with the fore sail.  There are a lot of blocks and a fair amount of rigging required for the peak and throat halliards.  Need to pay close attention to the rigging plan on sheet 6 to make sure all the lines run to the correct pins.  
 
I attached the fore boom and loosely rigged the sheet and topping lift so that they could be tightened up as needed once the sail was rigged and attached.  

Once the boom was in place I added all of the ties for the mast hoops to the fore sail and lashed the top of the sail to the fore gaff.

I thought I had taken pictures of the completed peak halliard before I added the fore top sail but, did not have any when I went to edit the pics for posting.  

Once I had the gaff rigged, I lashed the bottom of the sail to the boom and then snugged all of the lines up.

The fore top sail was next.  I learned from the main top sail to attach all of the clew line fairleads and blocks, the rigging line and block and the mast hoop ties BEFORE attaching the sail to the mast.  So much easier to work with the sail off of the ship, duh!  Unfortunately, I forgot to take pictures of this interim step and only have a photo of the sail fully rigged.  

Once again, very important to study the rigging plan, check and double check all the lines to make sure they are all routed appropriately and tied off to the correct pin prior to any permanant attachment.  I finished off all of the tie offs with rope coils.  While I was looking things over, I noticed that my main top sail and fore top sail were rigged on opposite sides of their associated peak halliards.  What I discovered is that I had placed the main top sail on the wrong side.  Both sails are set to the port side, but the bottom corner of the main top sail and tack line goes over the main gaff to the starboard side.  This is noted on the plans.


On to the stay sail...4 more to go!
 
Tim
 
 
 

Sails…

Carefully trace all sails from drawings. 

 Cut out sail leaving 1/4” to fold over the edge. I use a muslin material purchased at a fabric store. The Kit supplied sail cloth is usually too heavy. 

Fold the 1/4” edge seam and iron it flat for sewing. 

Trim corner to lay flat before sewing. 

Edge seams sewn 1/8” from the edge. 

Trim the under side, fray check the fabric edges and iron out flat. 

Mark up seams with water soluble ink pen. (fine point) 

Sew seams including those for reef points. 

Main Sail sewn and ready for additional details.  Bolt rope, reef point ropes and corner rings. 

Remaining sails cut out ready for sewing. 

Fore Sail 

Stay Sail
Main Top Sail

Fore Top Sail

Jumbo Jib

Jib Sail

Balloon Jib

All Sails sewn and ready for details to be added. 
 
Cheers 🍻 

Just an additional note on the hammock cloth, and historical accuracy, since you don't see this black cloth depicted often.  Usually you see some diagonal netting, and some folded over hammocks contained within.   The netting is problematic for me.  Whatever you can get "ready-made" is plastic and seems out of scale, and would be difficult to fasten realistically.  So I liked Glenn Greico's black cloth--much simpler (I reference his model for the Institute of Nautical Archeology in Austin, Texas of the USS Brig Jefferson often, and in that context he HAS to be as historically accurate as possible.).  But I am now realizing that I have seen it other places.  A recent photo in archjofo's La Creole log led me back to post #783 where he shows his version of the black cloth.  Very interesting that he used balsa (or similar soft wood) for the underlying form!!  And then I remembered a black cloth in photos of Frolich's models of Swan and Cygne.  
 
I (we) look at so many sources for these details that I lose track of where I saw them, or even forget I even saw them.
 
So I am feeling good about the approach.  The bigger question of whether this ship would have even HAD hammock cranes is unanswerable.  We don't know much about Oneida beyond the basic lines.  I wish I was building an Oneida that I know is accurate, but I will continue on building an Oneida that I hope is plausible, and in the end for me, is a beautiful model.   
  

More hammock crane work.
 
I decided I needed a better way to make the modeling clay form for the hammock covering cloth.   I had just kind of rolled it out and mashed it into rough shape, but it was a little TOO rough and varied in height and thickness.  So I made a mold out of scrap wood.  This is the length I need for the forward sections.  The previous clay form and removed covering paper are above it--

 
Then I mashed the clay into one side of the mold--
 
And clamped the outer mold piece against it.  There are spacers at the end to make the right thickness, and I used my calipers to make sure it was the same width at the middle.  They also worked as a clamp.  I mashed additional clay into the top where needed--

 
Then scraped the top smooth--

 
This gave me a piece of clay that was uniform in height and thickness--


 
I ran a finger along each side of the top to round and smooth it--

 
New pieces of Silkspan were moistened and folded around it--

 
When this dried, I tucked and glued the loose ends at the bottom, and let that dry--

 
Here it is fit into place--


 
 
I am much happier with this attempt.   It may be more uniform than it really should be, but it will be easy to go back and make it a little "lumpy" if I decide it needs it.  Here's a view from inboard--

 
As I finish up the hammocks I'm adding the capstan bars to the capstan.   It's always one of the things on a model that catches your eye, and I've been waiting a long time to add this touch!   I cut some blanks, and test fit a few times to get the length I thought was appropriate.  They look pretty chunky, but they haven't been tapered or rounded yet, hence they are also not glued to the capstan yet--

 
I numbered each hole and bar on the underside just in case it matters which one goes where--

 
As the afternoon light starts to fade--

 
That's all for now.
 
Ron
 
 

Another update that I'll attempt to do very quickly... (especially since I didn't take many notes during the construction) <shrug>
 
MAIN GAFF - The final spar of the five!  This one was actually sorta fun to build for a few reasons.  First, it was fairly easy as it repeated several of the build processes that had been used on any of the previous four.  Secondly, I was able to utilize some of the special tools to finish it up and make it, in some cases, a better product.  First, worked on the gaff jaws and, like I had done on the fore gaff and main boom, used the Proxxon mill to shave down the two sides of the spar to give the jaws a flat surface to adhere to.  Drilled the holes for the brass rods, aligned the clapper, and glued everything together.  Enjoyed doing this part on all three of the spars.  A slightly different configuration on the eyebolt placement on this main gaff, so pay attention to those details.
 
        
 
For the stop chocks towards the center of the main gaff, I wanted to give the chocks a bit of an indentation or groove to securely sit in, so started making grooves with the Proxxon mill on the two sides.  The stop chocks were measured to be about 10mm long and I had a 1/32" thick piece of scrap wood that I shaped for the stop chocks.  After a bit of milling on both sides, I actually found that I had milled all the way through the dowel.  But, it worked out well, as I was then able to firmly insert each sides' stop chocks in the main gaff.  Secured them with glue and gave them a final sanding to best shape them to form. In the zoomed picture, the two chocks look uneven so may need to work on those a bit to more evenly shape them.  Used a #71 drill bit, as I recall, to place a hole for the bridles on both sides.
 
        
 
        
 
As we moved closer to the other end of the main gaff, five (5) sets of smaller stop chocks were placed on the underside of the main gaff.  Those were made from some 1/32" square stock, sanded down a bit and placed with just a toothpick drop of PVA glue.  Let those dry overnight before sanding a bit more to give them an angled appearance and then gave them a touch of cherry stain.  Drilled a hole using a #65 drill bit through the sides at the indicated location and soldered one more small band at the end using the 1/128" thick brass strip.  Again, I found a couple smaller eyelets than what I had previously been using and placed two at the top and bottom sides of the main gaff end.
 

 
So.... there are the five (5) completed spars.  Top to bottom - Main Boom, Main Gaff, Fore Gaff, Fore Boom, Jumbo Jib Boom.  All in all, it progressed pretty well.  Right at about two weeks' time frame from when I began sanding the five wooden dowels to their needed diameters until now.  It was fun and educational, but so glad to move on.
 

 
So, I guess now it's on to another set of challenges, trials, tribulations and victories.  Time to begin rigging, stropping blocks, tying lines, etc.  Need to sit down before jumping in head-first and review all of the available build logs before me to assess the challenges and develop a game plan.  There are some great rigging examples in that group, I know, so their work is extremely appreciative and inspiring.  With that said, I appreciate the likes, comments and criticisms of my work here, hoping that I add at least something to the Bluenose community for future builders.  Thanks! 

Continuing with hammock cranes.
 
I was able to thread the three outboard lines and test the hammock covering cloth.  I'm not truly happy with the covering cloth, I may redo that, but I do like the overall look--


 
It was blackening residue in the holes that was making it so hard to thread the line.  And the end caps were clogged with Tung oil finish.  I had to carefully try and get the drill bit through the holes and clean them out.  The angle wasn't exactly right, and I probably should have just twisted everything out and re-glued them.  Some became loose anyway (and many bent this way and that-thankfully none broke).   But after clearing the holes, I found that I could get the thread through.  By the last one, I found that with the tip just stiffened by wax, rather than CA glue, I could get them through quite well--didn't need to push and pull with the tweezers.   The CA, though it stiffened the end, did increase the diameter a smidge.
 
Here are the first set of lines through, and the next set of hammock cranes glued in.  After all the lines are threaded, and the cloth in, I'll knot off the ends of the lines--

 
Now I'm off with my daughter to my parents' house in Rochester to try and see the eclipse.   It's supposed to be cloudy, but maybe we'll get lucky.  If not, we'll still have a nice, if brief, visit with my folks.   Hoping the traffic will be manageable, but it probably will be pretty bad.
 
All for now,
Ron 

Thanks Mike!
 
Continuing on with the hammocks, I made a line of clay, which fit between the hammock cranes--

 
I wrapped this in the black painted Silkspan and tested the fit.  It looks just okay.  I may work a bit on the "wrinkles"--

 
I removed the clay/paper, realizing it would be much easier to run the line through all the hammock cranes without having it in the way.  And it was FAR more difficult than I anticipated.   I spent hours trying to come up with a way of stiffening the end of the line with superglue, and cutting a point on it, but the holes in the cranes were just too small, and some had become partially blocked with blackening deposits (I think).  I spent a lot of time with a pin trying to open the holes--very awkward with them glued in place.  Some cranes came loose from the rail, or bent (though easily re-straightened).   I even tried supergluing a strand of fly tying thread to the end of the line to lead it through the holes, but that failed like all the other attempts.  I finally searched for a thinner line in my stock, and found one.  It was just enough thinner to work--
 
 
Hopefully I can get through the rest of the holes, and finally see what this looks like with the hammock paper inside.
 
Also, trying to finish everything on the deck before rigging begins, I glued some eyebolts and rings to the deck binding strakes, and some to the channels, which can be seen in the photos.
 
All for now,
Ron
 
 
 

Another update... got another spar completed, so taking a break and getting this down in the build log.
 
FORE GAFF - This one was probably the easiest, or quickest, of the spars I've been working on.  As I have done with the others, I first worked on the end closest to the mast, which for this fore gaff meant working on the jaws that will wrap around the fore mast.  As I had done on the main boom, I used the Proxxon mill to flatten or shave the gaff on either side of the spar to give the jaws something flat to be secured to.  Then, after marking the hole locations for the jaw eyebolts, I used my Proxxon drill press to drill #65 bit holes in the jaw sides for the 0.81mm brass rods.  
 

 
Also drilled the necessary holes for the required eyebolts for the throat halliard linkage on the topside of the fore gaff and for the topsail sheet eyebolts on the underside.  Thanks to @John Ruy for his input and clarification on the plans and the needed eyebolts.  The first (left) picture is the topside, the second (right) picture is the underside with the additional eyebolt in the spar itself.  (There's one eyebolt in that underside picture that looks a bit turned, too.  Need to see if I can fix that!)
 
          
 
On the other end of the fore gaff, there are a few fittings needed.  Two peak halliard bands were shaped and secured in their appropriate locations by using the 1/64" x 1/16" brass strip.  Shaped them so they fit snuggly in their locations, removed them to drill the holes for the pins to be placed during rigging, and then glued them in place using CA glue.
 
At the end of the gaff, I shaped a small band using even thinner 1/128" thick brass strip.  On the top and bottom of this band, I drilled a small hole to accept eyebolts.  I had some smaller 2.07mm wide eyebolts that I used here rather than the thicker 2.78mm ones I have been using elsewhere.  Hopefully, these don't look too oversized for the very end of this smaller fore gaff.  I also drilled out a 1/32" hole in the side of this fore gaff just behind this band, as shown in the plans.
 

 
And, here's a picture of the full fore gaff, in all its glory. 
 

 
Going to go back and clean this up a bit, as I am with all these booms and gaffs, once this last one is completed.  With that said, I only have one more to work on... the main gaff.  See ya later...  As always, thanks for the likes, comments and criticisms.  All are appreciated.

Got a couple more of the booms completed, so a brief update...
 
FORE BOOM:
 
GOOSENECK - Wrapped a 1/64" x 1/16" brass strip (have been using a ton of these!), cut to shape and soldered.  Holy moly, the bands on these smaller booms and gaffs are going to be tiny!  Bent a small piece of brass strip and glued to the end that attaches to the foremast.
 

 
Boom Tackle Band - Soldered two strips together on one end, formed around the boom (again, very small!).  Drilled holes through the strips on the bottom of the boom to fit a 0.51mm brass rod for the link.  The circle link may be too big and I may switch it out before rigging and attaching to the fore mast.
 
Sheet Band - Similar to the Main Sheet Band that was made earlier for the Main Boom, except (yep, saying it again) this one is smaller.  Used a 0.51mm brass rod bent around a 1/4" wooden dowel for shape.
 
Clew Band - Did something a bit different for this clew band.  I used a 0.2mm brass sheet (half the thickness of the 1/64" strips I had been using) and measured and cut a 1/16" width strip from the sheet.  Came out in a nice curl as I cut it with sharp scissors.
 
        
 
Similar to what was done on the main boom clew bar, I drilled holes using a #65 micro drill bit for the link bar, but won't put link in until rigging.  Glued the clew band in place.
 
Topping Lift Band -  Used more of the 1/128" thick brass sheet that I cut to form a band at the very end of this fore boom.  After fitting, soldered and secured on the fore boom and added eyebolt.
 
The clew band and topping lift band are not at the very end of the fore boom, as shown in the plans.  Noticed this after I was done and looked back at the plans.  Hoping this is not critical in the rigging stage.  Need to do better on the remaining booms/gaffs.  With that said, here's a closeup of the end with the four (4) bands close together, as well as a picture of the entire fore boom completed.
 
         
 
JUMBO JIB BOOM:
 
Traveler Band - Used more of the thinner 1/128" brass strip for this band at the fore end of this band.  Drilled two small holes in bottom side of band for a staple-type rod insert.
 

 
Sheet Band - Similar to what I have done on the two previous booms, with the 0.51mm brass rod looped at the bottom.
 

 
Clew Band & Topping Lift Band - Again, similar to the bands that have been created and fixed to other booms.
 

 
And a photo of the full Jumbo Jib Boom completed.  Pretty straight-forward.  
 

 
Three down, two more to go!  Some techniques and operations I know I have improved on, but many, many, many things I need to work better at achieving.  Appreciate the likes, comments and criticisms, as always.
 
 

Continuing on.
 
I'm going to try using clay to stand in for the hammocks.   My plan is to wet the Silkspan, and wrap the clay.   Hopefully when it dries it will shrink a little and take on the bumps in the clay.  We shall see.
 
First test is to size the clay filler, and determine the right width to cut the Silkspan--

 
I folded this piece over the clay, and held the ends down just to try and get some idea how it will work, and look.  It hasn't been wetted, and it's also the thicker Silkpan, which I don't intend to use.  But I can waste it to test, and determine the width piece that I need.  I think I can trim 1/4 inch of the width of this piece--

 
I'm also ready to start locating the end caps and cranes on the cap rail.  After epoxying a pin in each end cap, I located them on the ship, drilled holes and dry fit them--

 
Incidentally, I ended up narrowing each cap a bit.  These looked okay in place, so I drilled more holes in the cap rail and tested the 7 aft starboard hammock cranes in place--
   
I discovered that some of the blackening on the cranes had either not taken, or had flaked off, so they will need to be re-blackened.   I also see that the end caps need some adjustment of the top curve.  The two at the entry steps are not uniform.  When I narrowed the end caps I also adjusted the angle/curve of the tops, and apparently I "fixed" some more than others.  The angles on the iron cranes will need fine tuning as well, once they are glued on.


 
All for now.
Ron
 
 

Planning ahead, I want to have some figures on the deck to give the model human scale. Without that a model could be 200 feet or 400 feet. I had a discussion with Retired Guy who suggested Vanguard Models where he obtained his figures. Unfortunately Vanguard Models no longer carries the fisherman crew set. He suggested looking at MODELU. I purchased a set of ship's crew from ModelU and a figure from Shapeways. These are 3-D print to order firms that have stock figures. Sort of like ordering photos from a stock photo house. You can get any scale you like. ModelU is in UK. I ordered March 19th and the figures arrived March 29th. I guess 10 days isn't so bad for half way around the world and a couple international borders.
https://www.modelu3d.co.uk/
https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?type=product&q=figures
The Shapeways figure arrived ready to paint in a yellowish plastic. The ModelU figures were still attached to their printing substrate and supports. They need cutting out:

Here's the whole crew on deck(Shapeways figure is on left):

These will be challenging to paint!

Alright!  Beginning the work on the various booms and gaffs that will get attached to either of the two masts.  Cut out the laser pieces for the three (3) sets of jaws and sanded to remove the char.  Cut 1/8" and 1/4" dowels to size per the plans for all of the gaffs and booms, and sanded each one to the appropriate tapers and (as I had seen others do in their build logs) labeled them to keep organized.
 

 
MAIN BOOM - Made slight mill cuts on the port and starboard sides where the jaws are to be mounted.  Make sure to use the correct-sized jaws for this main boom!  There are differences in the shapes/sizes/lengths of each set of jaws!  Match with the plans.  Using the Proxxon drill press, I initially drilled #65 holes in the jaw sides in the appropriate locations, matching both jaw sides.  Also, lined up the two holes for the little clapper piece to sit in between the jaws.  Then, after gluing to the boom/dowel, I hand-drilled a bit more for each hole to adequately accept 0.81mm brass rods for the fake bolts. Drilled small holes at the tips for the parrel beads that will eventually be added once this is actually rigged to the main mast.  Drilled #52 holes in the top of each jaw for the belaying pins and another #65 hole for the eye bolt.  All in all, looking good.  A great start to this main boom construction.
 
       
 
LAZY JACK LINES - Not sure I did this "perfectly", but simply took a small 0.35mm black rope, tied loops on both ends, and wrapped around the bottom of the boom, securing each side with staples made from 0.51mm brass rod so that the loops stick up above the staples.
 

 
Moving on down the length of the main boom, the next thing shown on the plans was a cleat on the port side.  I had seen others carve their own cleats on their build logs, but I decided to simply use the "pre-made" cleats (think I used a supply of them on my last build) that had been painted black.  It takes a #55 drill bit for the hole to secure.  We'll call that done.  Looks good and in scale.
 
BOOM TACKLE BAND - This was the first in a series of several soldering exercises I was going to need to do on this main boom.  I shaped two (2) 1/64" x 1/16" brass strips around the boom.  Soldered the top joint.  Drilled 1/32" holes in the bottom and ran 0.81mm brass rod through after building a link to attach.  Trimmed the rod and cleaned up.  Using the Proxxon drill press (again!), I drilled #65 holes in each side for eyepins (not shown in this picture but in the next one with the bullseye fairleads).
 
          
 
BULLSEYE FAIRLEADS - Looked at several options to accomplish this piece, and decided to simply present this by using eyebolts on the port and starboard sides and then wrap with 0.5mm black rope with a visible knot on the top side.
 

 
QUARTER LIFT BAND - For this band, I soldered 1/64" x 1/16" strips for one side of the boom and then shaped the strips around the boom for fit.  Soldered the other side and drilled holes for eyebolts on each side.  Secured the eyebolts simply with CA glue, as I was concerned about soldering on top of existing solder.  Hope this will hold ok.  
 
         
 
MAIN SHEET BAND - Built this band similar to the quarter lift band above.  Drilled two holes on each side.  Wrapped a 0.83mm brass rod around a 5/16" wooden dowel for shape and inserted from bottom into the two inside holes on each side.  Soldered in place and cleaned.  Eyelets were put in place in the outside holes.  Have to say, for as poor as my soldering skills were several months ago, I thought these came out pretty sharp. Think I may finally have the hang of this.  <shrug>
 
        
 

 
SHEAVES - Using my Proxxon drill press, I drilled four (4) 1mm #60 holes in the boom in the appropriate spots, then moved the boom over to the Proxxon MF70 mill with a 1mm bit to carve the sheaves.  Worked out pretty well.
 

 
CLEW BAND - Again, like many of the other bands on this main boom, this clew band was similar to the other bands done previously.  Wrapped two (2) 1/64" x 1/16" brass strips around the boom.  Soldered with a hinge on the bottom (0.82mm brass rod cut flush). Drilled holes in the top for a bolt to eventually hold the clew iron, but will not put that bolt in until the rigging stage.
 

 
TOP LIFT BAND - This band goes at the very end of the main boom, and was probably the easiest of the bands we needed to create for this boom.  Wrapped, soldered and secured this band.  Placed it in the drill press and drilled three holes (port, starboard and top) for eyebolts, as well as one more for an eyebolt just in front of the one on top.  Hope those two aren't too close together.
 

 
And that finishes the main boom!  Yay!  The other booms and gaffs should be a bit easier.  Appreciate the likes, comments and criticisms, as always.

More progress on the eight fishing dories, using swiss pear which is very nice to work with, planks are .018" thick easily bendable with fingers.
Had a clamp which I glued bits of wood to, so that sanding to shape was easier. 

 
First planking done now have to work out shape for the second plank.
 

 
Until next time,
Regards
Richard
 
 

A minor update. Have completed filling and sanding the hull. Now ready to trim back the excess ABS and get on with the build (I think....).
 

 

Well, I got another phase of this Bluenose build accomplished, so thought I'd share what I did and where I have progressed to to-date.  Finishing up the work on the mast bands after completing the trestle trees on the upper part of the lower two masts.  Lots of soldering of small strips, rods and bolts.  For the mast bands above each of the trestle tree areas, I used a slightly-smaller-than 1/4" dowel held in a vise to initially shape the ten (10) needed bands for the tops of the lower masts.  I would wrap, measure and then cut the bands to (what I thought was) the appropriate circumference for the position on the mast.  I then would solder the individual brass strip, but was then finding that the newly-soldered bands were too tight to go back in the place I had just measured them for.  And this happened a few times.  Grrr... So, I had to give just a bit more "slack", for lack of better terms, when wrapping the strips, measuring, cutting and soldering so that each of the NEW bands then fit snuggly, but manageable.  As I had seen others do, I also typed out a little placement chart to keep all 10 of the bands organized while I was making them, soldering, etc.  Worked out well.
 
        
 
All of the bands need at least one hole in them, so used my new Proxxon drill with the precision vise to drill the necessary holes.  That worked out well, as I then placed the bands in their proper locations and, using a pin vise, drilled holes through the band holes into the masts for the eyebolt placement.
 

 
Next was working on the spring stay sail band on the foremast.  On other Bluenose build logs, I have seen others use either brass rods or brass strips to create and attach this spring stay bail band and the jib stay bail bands.  I thought using narrow brass strips (1/16" wide) would be easier to attach to the masts and mast bands, so I used strips (and I am running out of brass strip stock quickly!).  Anyways, the spring stay bail band went on well after shaping.
 
        
 
The cranes for each mast were made from 0.84mm eye pins soldered to 0.81mm brass rods. (In the zoomed-in picture below, they look a bit dirty, but were cleaned, of course, after soldering.)  Brass strips were cut for the back plates and the links on the back side.  Drilled holes using a #65 bit (.88mm) and placed the cranes in place on the two masts.  This all worked out pretty well.
 
        
 
For the mast caps on both the foremast and main mast, outer bands were shaped and soldered around the individual mast bands, and this all worked out pretty good, as well.  The pictures below were taken after they were soldered and fit on the masts, but before I did some cleanup and touchup on the soldered areas.
 
        
 
Finished out then, with the longer jib stay bail strips and long links on the fore mast.
 
        
 
        
 
Didn't take a great number of notes on the top masts, but it all came together well.  To recreate the mast tackle sheaves on both top masts, I first drilled two holes in each using the Proxxon drill and precision vise.  Then, using the Proxxon MF70 mill, I cut slits to shape what would appear to be a pulley inside.  Debating whether to do any more with these, but thought the mill did an excellent job of cutting those small grooves in the masts.
 
For the gilt ball on the top of the masts, I had purchased a small box of 30mm long brass ball head pins with a 1.9mm wide ball at the top.  I cut a couple of those and inserted them at the top of each mast.  I may take some sandpaper to these to dull them a bit, make them a bit less shiny, but otherwise much better to use these than to create something so small.  Speaking of small, I have NO idea how to make the truck for the flag halliards.  Tried cutting small small circles but everything was breaking.  I'll leave that for now until I get to that point in the rigging.
 
        
 
With that said, the masts (I think) are pretty much done.  Just for grins, I put everything together on the work stand, and  then on the ship itself, to see how it all looks.  Man, this ship is going to be big when done!
 
        
 
Now, I believe it's on to the booms and gaffs!  As I mentioned earlier, I have run through all of the 1/64" x 1/16" brass strips that I had in inventory.  Got some new brass strips, but they are not quite as thin as the 1/64" ones I had, so a bit harder to bend and shape.  Have another source I am querying, so we'll see if they come through, as it appears I have plenty more bands to create.
 
As always, appreciate the likes, comments and criticisms!