bhermann
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bhermann got a reaction from trippwj in Emma C Berry by trippwj - Model Shipways - Scale 1:32
Nicely done, Wayne. Seems like a nice quid pro quo to me . Now let's see some progress!
Bob
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bhermann got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in Bluenose by bhermann - Model Shipways 2130 - 1:64
The next thing is the linkage for the block that will be rigged to the throat halliard. I built the first one by adding the parts in place on the gaff. It was a pain to get the shackle installed through the links, so for the second one I assembled all the parts off the gaff, then installed the completed assembly.
First there are a couple of links to make.
The complete assembly is eye-link-shackle-link-eye.
After that the eyes are glued to the gaff jaws.
And finally a shot with the block installed.
The parrell beads are beads I picked up at Michaels Craft store.
Bob
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bhermann got a reaction from tasmanian in Bluenose by bhermann - Model Shipways 2130 - 1:64
My most recent work (which means I've been working on the main gaff for over a year ) was to install a block on the underside of the gaff jaw. The topsail sheet will be run through this block en route to a belaying pin on the starboard side.
This pretty much finished up the main gaff. There is one more block for the topsail sheet at the upper end of the gaff but the only thing left to do there is to mouse the hook.
The fore gaff has much the same hardware on it except the blocks for the peak halliard are attached to bands rather than bridles, and there are two sets of blocks for the topsail sheet as it needs to be able to be set on either side of the main topmast stay.
Bob
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bhermann got a reaction from hexnut in Bluenose by bhermann - Model Shipways 2130 - 1:64
The next thing is the linkage for the block that will be rigged to the throat halliard. I built the first one by adding the parts in place on the gaff. It was a pain to get the shackle installed through the links, so for the second one I assembled all the parts off the gaff, then installed the completed assembly.
First there are a couple of links to make.
The complete assembly is eye-link-shackle-link-eye.
After that the eyes are glued to the gaff jaws.
And finally a shot with the block installed.
The parrell beads are beads I picked up at Michaels Craft store.
Bob
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bhermann got a reaction from tasmanian in Bluenose by bhermann - Model Shipways 2130 - 1:64
The next thing is the linkage for the block that will be rigged to the throat halliard. I built the first one by adding the parts in place on the gaff. It was a pain to get the shackle installed through the links, so for the second one I assembled all the parts off the gaff, then installed the completed assembly.
First there are a couple of links to make.
The complete assembly is eye-link-shackle-link-eye.
After that the eyes are glued to the gaff jaws.
And finally a shot with the block installed.
The parrell beads are beads I picked up at Michaels Craft store.
Bob
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bhermann reacted to russ in Solder brass rod for deadeye
I agree that some soldered joints are not under stress, however, soft soldered joints will not take chemcial toning while silver soldered joints will. Of course, you can always paint the pieces, but that will often obscure details. As for flux, I use a prefluxed soldering paste.
In the case of deadeye strops and chainplates, they will be under some sort of stress at some point and that is why silver soldering is really the best option for those joints. I have had soft soldered joints in deadeye straps come loose and it leaves the shrouds limp. If I had silver soldered those joints, it would not have happened. This same reasoning applies to eye bolts or rings used in tackles, or eyes on mastbands.
Russ
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bhermann got a reaction from Chuck in Intellectual Property Rights on build logs, "How To" articles and gallery photos
It's interesting to think about this. I consider the Internet to be the "Wild West" - when I put something out there, I lose control of it and what happens to it from there, so I don't put out things that I don't want the whole world to know about. I like the idea of license statement up front, but I suspect there would be no enforcement (nor would I expect any) so it would have more symbolic value than any practical purpose.
Bob
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bhermann got a reaction from Jan Sadlo in Bluenose by bhermann - Model Shipways 2130 - 1:64
One other tip I received was about using paper to repair broken wood parts. Several of the "experts" told me about this possibility.
While trying to fit one of the cast stanchions onto the main fiferail, I snapped the rail right at the pre-drilled hole for the stanchion.
I glued the two pieces back together, then glued a piece of paper onto the top and another to the bottom of the assembly.
Then reattached the stanchion
and here is the assembly being trial fitted on deck.
After painting the whole thing white, the paper became invisible and it is impossible to see in the finished product. There is a photo in my previous post that shows how it finished up.
Bob
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