Craigie65

Hello - The Hull now completed. Waterline done (may need a slight alteration towards the stern) / Wale in place along with the upper trim with the green area. The green was the same as James H used but with added yellow and white.
 
 
 
 
The Stern section completed along with the upper capping rails
 
 
View of the Stern. Required some sanding to merge all the different areas together.

 
Deck bits and pieces next.
 
Thank you
 
Doug

Log #10: Completing the first band
 
The first of three bands is done. I’m really happy with the result so far. 
 
The wood strips are not even comparable to the ones from the Perseverance, makes it so much more enjoyable.
 
Since the hull will be painted I will just use stealers for the stern.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I now have machined block sets back in stock for Indefatigable. They are walnut and look very nice indeed, but do cost me more than the machined pearwood blocks I got from Russia, so are a little more expensive.
 
HMS Indefatigable CNC Machined Walnut Block Set – VANGUARD MODELS
 
I will order sets for the other kits in time.

You can't do much with a crook back. I thought aircraft pieces would be lighter than ship parts! 🤪 Not much activity over the past two days, just a little bit of painting, weathering and masking. Anyway, I should be a lot better tomorrow.

Thanks for your continued interest.
Cheers,

Changes to figures made, I said keep the epaulettes as they are shown on the source pictures my carver used.

Belaying Main Mast Jeers, Truss Pendants and Nave Line
I have been away for a few days so I was only able to return back to the shipyard this afternoon. The first task was to belay the main yard rigging for the Jeers, Truss Pendants and Nave Line.
 
Jeers
The rigging between the double block assembly was carefully adjusted and the free end was then taken down to the deck level.

According to the rigging plans the jeers should be belayed through the holes on the aft main mast bitt posts. As can be seen in the photo below access to this bitt rack is very limited.

Chris did tell me that:
"these jeers are a problem for models, as they are fixed in a very awkward position on the main gun deck. I see nothing wrong with 'cheating' and tying them off in a more convenient place - that's what I'd do!"
 
Jim provided me with some additional advice:
"Remember that if you can't easily rig to a certain point, then don't worry about rigging to an alternative point either in the vicinity or in the 'flow' of the line. I've tied more things down to the shroud cleats that the plans show, and relocated other rig points which allowed me to safely access via tweezers and crochet hooks etc. "
 
Reassured with their excellent advice I opted to belay to the forward main mast belaying rack, using the hole in the bitt post before securing to the crossbeam, as can be seen in the next photo.

Truss Pendants and Nave Line
Each truss pendant were belayed to a double block. A second double block (for each truss pendant) was secured to deck eyebolts using a hook. The free ends of each inter-block rigging was then belayed to pins of the bitt rack. This arrangement is indicated by the yellow arrows in the next photo. The blue arrow shows the belaying of the nave line.

The next two photos shows the truss pendant double block arrangement.


The final photo in this post shows the nave line secured to the truss pendants.

 

Chris
I'm so pleased that you've gone ahead to commission some new figures in appropriate poses to go in the cabin.  The responses above about uniform accuracy etc show how highly we are interested in this.
I've said before that your figures are the best available, certainly at 1/64, so the more you are able to extend your range, the more popular they will be!
 
Nipper

Good luck with the second layer

Log #9: Starting the Second layer planking
 
The second layer planking has started.
The outer prow pieces have also been fitted.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

James she looks fantastic

An excellent rendition of an oob build, very well done James.
She surely looks impressive  as a fully rigged model.
 
B.E.

Well folks, this is it.
 
After 2yrs and 2 months, a period of ill health due to long covid, and also a break to build Grecian, here is my completed HMS Indefatigable. The rigging on this is intense but The last rig sheet went quickly. Hope you like her.
 

would make a nice diorama setting on its own

What I've been waiting for, thank you Chris.
Presumably there is more work to do on the figures before they go into production?
 
B.E.

Yards secured. Instructions suggesting rigging the spanker first before the shrouds as no shrouds in the way. There is an error on rigging sheet 10 where the thimbles for the t'gallant lifts are placed where the blocks for the topsail lifts should be and no mention as to  what I suspect 3mm blocks should be placed for the topsail lifts. The pictures in the instruction manual show the correct configuration.

The stern frames are now birch ply and more robust than the previous MDF that I believe was used in previous versions of Speedy. Even so, getting the counter and transom pieces on is a relief and makes the stern section quite robust. The counter pattern was soaked and curved around a jar before fitting and then the transom pattern glued to the stern frames.

Hull fairing of the 3mm MDF was relatively quick. I worked it a bit at a time by hand over a couple of days for fear of overdoing it. For some reason BH 14 was low on one side and I had to add a 1mm strip to bulk it out. I think this is my best attempt at fairing a hull so far but the planking will soon let me know if that it true.

The gunport patterns were soaked in warm water fitted to the bulwarks and left to dry. The two problems I had at this stage were getting the forward tab of the pattern to fit in the slot on the stem and getting the pins to hold the lower edge of the pattern against the bulkheads. I used a travel iron to improve the contact between bulkhead and pattern.
I glued the port pattern without difficulty a few bulkheads at a time again pinning and using heat to improve contact at the lower edge and left it to partially set for half an hour before glueing up the starboard side. When it had all set I noticed the starboard quarter was about 0.5mm too low at the stern so it was partially removed and re-glued. There is still a small difference which I think is due to the transom being slightly off so I may have to rework it.

After reworking the starboard gunports



The manual says 12 strakes per side are required to plank the hull. I think that this is a typo: the pictures show 15 strakes but I measured the mid frame to be 80mm suggesting 16 strakes of 5mm planks will be needed
The first strake of the limewood planking is glued and pinned to each side. The forward end is tapered to half width from bulkhead 5 and the stern left untapered.

And so planking continues...
 
David

Morning @Patrick Haw nice to hear from you, in 2021 i moved out of the garage into the conservatory, and made a display area in the empty space, there are now far more models in there, but thats where they are nowadays
 

 

Evening all,   I have  placed  my Jager  after  cutting him away from his  base,  I  have stood  him in on of the  wheel ruts  and  added some water  around and over  his  shoes, so  he is assisting the  95th  firing on the  French  from about  30 yards.
I have  also  thrown in another arty shot  from the  front.
 
OC.
 

Just received some first renders of one of the series of boats I have commissioned to be done for me. This is the progress of the 24 foot cutter, and I am quite happy with that.
 
Am looking forward to seeing the rest when they're done.



 
Oh, and no bomb vessels planned! lol

Many thanks

Such an impressive display when it's rigged...wonderful!

personally I would fill the empty spaces between the MDF pieces at the stern, and then sand it like the shape it needs to be. It gives me more visual aid to see how everything needs to fit. I found this helpful with my Sphinx build. But maybe others have better tips for this  

Yard Manufacture
Over the last few days I have been shaping and then adding the various PE parts, cleats and footropes to all the remaining yards. The only task now remaining, before installation to the masts will be to paint the yards black. Please see the following set of photos.
 
Driver Gaff
This was an interesting dowel to shape. There are two flying lead blocks and a couple of blocks secured to the driver gaff via eyebolts,


Driver Boom
There was not a great deal of shaping required for the driver boom. The most time consuming task was to make the knotted footrope.

Mizzen Topgallant Yard
This was a nice simple yard to make with a central section which tapers down to each end. 

Mizzen Topsail Yard
I had a bit of a brain fart when adding the footrope stirrups and initially drilled the holes in the wrong place, as you will see in the attached photos where these holes have been filled. I will adjust the position of a couple of the footrope stirrups so they are vertically aligned.

Crossyard Jack
I had the same brain fart with regards to drilling to stirrup holes. I will also need adjust the position of a couple of the footrope stirrups so they are vertically aligned.

Main Topsail Yard

I did add thin planking trips to the central octagonal section.

Main Yard

 
I did add thin planking trips to the central octagonal section.