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About Clark

  • Birthday 04/07/1955

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    Ships, books, jogging

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  1. Hi Glenn, Do you want to rig the cannons as beeing in figth or as beeing on trip? Picture below explains what I mean. Regarding the Duchess, cannons in fight might probably look better (onyl my opinion). Clark
  2. Thanks Frank, you are right. I spent a lot of time working on the ship during the last weeks. It relaxes me really. I am happy that my 5 year old granddaughter stayed in your house for some days and even "helped" me in sanding, cutting and gluing. Im not so good in playing with dolls. Hope to find some news from your ship soon. Clark
  3. Forecastle handrails were prepared and added. I put balls usually used for ball bearings on the top. Might be kitschy, but I thought there should be an end at the top. Clark
  4. Excellent idea to construct a spacer. I used a triangle placed on the midline which led to a lot of repeated measurements. Clark
  5. According to the Corel plans, there should be a decoration plate at the stern similar to the one at the bow showing lily ornaments. Since I run out of the ornaments, I replaced the decoration plate by pillar rows.
  6. Hi Frank, glad you are back. It is a good idea to add rudder pendents. However I thought they were not in use such early. Below a photo from http://militaryhistory.x10.mx/shippictures/art_galleys_and_galleasses_03.htm showing the rudder area. How many of the ornaments are left? There a still some needed for decoration at the stern. Clark
  7. Hi Frank, meanwhile I removed the rudder assembly from the ship. I am afraid that it will be damaged while handling and turning the ship. Clark
  8. Hi Frank, height of the pins was adjusted to 5mm. Oars including protective boards at the that point are 5mm x 3 mm (width x height). Oar supports were cut to 7 mm. This there is 2 mm space left in both direktions. Hope it works when oars will be fixed. I placed the pins perpendicular to the waterline. To adjust the ship at the waterline, I took the distances from the corel plan showing that the stern yoke is 14 mm higher that the bow yoke. 14 mm is the number I reminder. I am not quite sure. To adjust the pins perpendicularly I used the holder shown above (#77). Since we will
  9. Next step was to arrange the thole pin of the oars. I hesitated if the pins had to be arranged on the bow or on the stern side of the oars, i.e. if the boat was pulled or pushed via the pins. They had to be arranged on the stern side of the oars meaning that the boat was pulled via the pins and oarloops. Gimo, thanks for providing the picture. To arrange the pins vertically, used the holder I had prepared for fixing the supports. Railing stanchions were prepared out of two 2x2 mm wood strips according to Corel suggestions. To get the correct and uniform placement of the small piece on t
  10. Hi Frank, it might be overkill but follows the picture below. Morever, I thought it would be a very nice contrast to the dark wood structure of the hull. I have shortly thought of blackening the ornaments but I finally painted them gold just to get the contrast. Gimo is surely right that they were painted directly on the hull but this is far beyond my skills. I fixed them with a gel-type CA glue. Some of the ornaments were carfully sanded on the backside to get an even surfeace to attach the glue. There is not a lot of time to correct the position. I have used several wood strips, ho
  11. Lily ornaments were glued on the hull. When finished, there were only 3 lilies left. Thus, the further ornaments must be made in another way. I am quite sure that I did not drop any of the ornaments. But I had to sort out about 10 of them since they were not fully casted.
  12. Thanks a lot Gimo, it really helps me. Thus, most of the force is transferred via the oarloops. If will probably simulate an additional leather protection between pin and loop. However, this will surely be some times later. At present I was wondering where to place the oar supports. Again thanks a lot Clark
  13. Hi Frank, just a short question. Hope you can help me. I am proceeding and started to place the oarlocks. But I was wondering about the Corel plan. It is shown that the oarlocks are on the stern side of the respective oar. I am quite convinced that they should be positioned on the bow side. Otherwise it would be impossible to transfer the force of the oarstroke onto the boat. I took a foto of the corel plan and simulated the correct (?) position of the oar in relation to the oarlock with a wood strip. I hope I could explain the problem. If yes, do you agree with me? Clark
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