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About Clark

  • Birthday 04/07/1955

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    Ship building of course, books, jogging

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  1. As suggested by the Corel manual, I started with the two middle supports #82 and #83 (Corel plans), which are at the lowest point of the deck line. To get them in a vertical position I made a holder with a 1.5 mm slot (= thickness of plywood) and 8 mm width of the vertical wood strips (= distance between the supports). I made also some wood pieces 8 mm wide to keep and control the distances between the supports. Additional supports were added between #82 and #83 and the yokes. Further supports were inserted between the middle ones and the yokes.
  2. Regarding the bitts for fixation of the foremast; I had a discussion with Frank (fmodair) some time ago. Pictures of La Reale and some of other galleys show that there is a deviation of 5-7 degree of the foremast from the vertical axis due to the special handling of the lateen sails. It declines toward the bow. In the Corel plans, the foremast is shown in a vertical position. I decided to follow the paintings and drawings. To follow them, the deviation of the foremast of the vertical axis has also to be reflected in the tube to be drilled into the bitts. I have tested the decline with some wood pieces simulating the bitt and the foremast. Moreover, I do not believe that the bitts were strong enough to withstand the enormous power of the big sail, i.e., the foremast had to fixed at the keel line. Such a fixation is also shown in the Mondfeld plan of the galley La Dracene. Thus, I made surroundings for the foremast fixation. Next step is adapting the supports for the oars., which is probably the most difficult part
  3. Some recommend to mix the paint with PVA to get an uneven result. I am eager to read the news on your post.
  4. Frank, which kind of paint do you want to use? Water based paint would not work, I assume. May be better to use Humbrol or any other enamel paint. But I am not sure if the sanding procedure proposed works together with this kind of paint. Any experience? Clark
  5. Glad you are back. "Notebook" is an excellent idea. Clark
  6. When building the hatch coamings, I put the lids at a higher position than recommended in the Corel plans. Regarding the coamings for the anchor line, it should probably only protect the hole in the deck from water flooding in. Nevertheless, the rope would be damaged if pulled along the edges. Thus I added a protection. The hatch coamings had to be tapered due to the sloping deck line in the line from the middle to the hull. It is necessary to keep the upper line of the hatch coamings horizontal since the footplates of the oarsmen will be attached later. To put the coamings in place, ship had to fixed. Hull was protected with painter tape. Ship was put in the slipway, levelled again and fixed by balsa/foam supports. Since I was afraid that the long stem post might get broken (it is really a long and small hull), it was covered by balsa pieces.
  7. Thanks a lot, Frank. Did you have the chance to get back to the bench? I am eager to read news of your progress. Your report is more than inspiring. Clark
  8. I decided to reseal the hull. I sanded it (grade 120, 180, 320) which took me about one week. It is really not the job I like. After sanding, I sealed it with the water based diluted (~20% H2O) acrylic varnish. Corel material of the supports for the middle gangway and thwarts is made of plywood. The best way may be to replace them by normal wood. I relied on the ones provided by Corel. I stained them mahogany to cover the plywood character a bit. Next step is building the hatch coamings.
  9. Meanwhile I have tested other varnishes and oils on walnut pieces. Finally, I found one on acrylic basis and tried it on part of the hull sanded. In the photo below, the glossy varnish (Nelson) can be seen on one side and on the other side the acrylic one (water diluted/surrounded by painter tape) on the other side . I will put the ship aside and have another glance on it.
  10. When starting the Reale, I shortly hesitated to paint it to get nearer to the orignal one. It is probably a never ending discussion if wood ships should be painted or not. I am a fan of the wood structure, thus I will probalby stain only the plywood pieces.
  11. I like the wood structure to be visible. Thus I only want to seal the wood with varnish. Im will probably sand the old varnish down. Clark
  12. Hull was covered with diluted mat clear varnish (Nelson). I have tested the varnish on several pieces of wood before. I was a bit shocked after the drying of the varnish. The hull is much too glossy. Have to think about.
  13. Not much progress in the meantime. But the kit and plans urges one to think not only about the next two steps. Shortened nails were put into the keel for the (much) later fixation of the ship in the final supports. Final supports were already dry fitted since this will probably much more difficult with all the stuff on the deck. Final supports provided by Corel were covered with walnut strips on all sides to hide the plywood character. However, I am not sure if I will really use the Corel supports at the end. Final supports were also adjusted with the ship on them. For levelling in the longitudinal axis, the difference in height between the two support points was extrapolated from the Corel plan. Same points measured on the ship when put on the supports had only a small greater difference (~0.5 mm) than in the plan. I did not correct it. Levelling in the vertical axis (starboard / portside) was a bit more tricky and done with the help of spirit levels and caliper. Wood/foam supports were adapted for following mounting and fixation in the slipway.
  14. You mean the curve from stern to bow? It may be the best to test the bending proceeder on an extra plywood piece. Usually wood can be bended by applying heat. If the wood is watered, the water helps to spread the heat. I am not sure how plywood reacts. Clark

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