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About Clark

  • Birthday 04/07/1955

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    Ship building of course, books, jogging

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  1. Hi Wefalck, thanks for the tip. I will try the Zaponlack next time.
  2. Would totally agree that CA is mostly a no go in rigging. However, I used it once on knots when giving a final fixation with 0.25 mm black rigging lines. The knots were then covered with black ink. Applying the CA was a bit tricky. I made the experience that watered PVA also leads to changes in the colour of rigging lines (depending on the type of lines). Clark
  3. Tutorials are excellent. Unfortuntely I detected them too late. Clark
  4. Bob Cleek, you are expressing what I feel. Adjusting height and correcing postion can often better be done by eye than by caliper. As a control I sometimes asked my my wife to have a sharp look on the ship. But her willingness is declining. Thanks all for joining the discussion Clark
  5. Thanks for the rapid reply. I will keep it in mind when starting the planking. I am already enjoying the dry fitting. Clark
  6. "In previous posts I mentioned that I had to lower the height of the stern yoke. Well, I lowered it too far! I had to put a temporary shim of about 1MM under the beam in order to properly finish installing the supports and have the correct curve of the beam." Dear Frank, mainly your report induced me to order the reale kit 4 weeks ago. Thanks for the excellent description and the pictures illustrating the progress in a very impressive way. Your efforts and success to work such accurately is an ever lasting motivation. Since I am just beginning to dry fit the frames and the keels, I have a question regarding the corretion of the height of the stern yoke: Was it necessary since it was placed on the deck planking and the thickness of the planking is not incorporated in the Corel-plans? During dry fitting of parts 1-38 (Corel) I could not detect such a problem. Thanks a lot for your valuable report. Clark
  7. Bruce, thanks for the hints. For the dust extraction I have positioned the tube of a vaccum cleaner near the blade. Not the best solution but it works. Please keep us up to date with your proxxon fet. Clark
  8. Dear Bob Cleek, you are right, it is not a Byrnes saw and most of the points you are mentioning are really the weaknesses of the saw. I thought of buying the Byrnes but I was repelled by the price and the additional shipping costs. One comment: I was also a little been puzzled by the uncommon blade type. But there are some providers - at least in Germany - who are selling a lot of blade subtypes which are also suitable for the NovelLife saw: https://www.saegeblatt-shop.de/produkte_kreissaegeblaetter-5-metallkreissaegeblaetter-din1837&din1838-86-BAY14006306100-24848.html May be I am dissapointed at the end, I will put some further reports when I start the real use. So far I have only tested it. Thank you for your comment. Clark
  9. Heigth of the blade cannot be changed and it cannot be tilted. So far, I only missed one for rectangular cuts. Any angle I acchieved with sanding, since mostly only thin strips had to treated. Are you working with the bigger proxxon? Clark
  10. Since I felt the need to buy a table saw, I browsed through the blogs and finally detected the “NovelLife Mini Hobby Table Saw”. I did not want to buy a proxxon one since I am rather disappointed by the plastic material proxxon is using in other tools. As shown in the pictures the saw was shipped well padded. It was easy to install when imaging how it would work. The first test on 10mmx10mm beech wood showed that the cut is smooth with no remaining and is quite accurate. Setting 50 mm produced a 50.1 mm (caliper) piece. Miter gauge seems to work accurately, it can be fixed well. It slides tightly but easily through the slot. I cannot tell anything about the long time stability. Thus it may be recommended to all which want to get a table saw with a reasonable price and those who want to saw wood (maximum 20 mm thick) with an accuracy of ~0.5 mm. I would be interested if there are any other modelers using this table saw.
  11. - Built 2016-2019 - Since the ship is shown with all the sails hoisted, the guns had to be secured and the gun port lids had to be closed - Corel does not provide a belaying plan, rigging plan is insufficient - Hints for rigging and belaying of the square-rigged sails were found in the book of Lennarth Peterson: “Rigging Period Ship Models: A Step-by-Step Guide to the Intricacies of Square-Rig” - Rigging and belaying of lateen sails based on logic - I would recommend the model to all who want to build a ship with an unusual but very nice shape
  12. I can really recommend the book. Parts of the book have been published separately: Enzyklopädie des historischen Schiffsmodellbaus / Teil ....... von Barbara zu Wertheim und Wolfram zu Mondfeld | However, the "Enzyklopädie" does not provide much more information than the whole book. Clark
  13. Hi Olapa 67, there are some excellent drawings explaining the rigging of guns in Historische Schiffsmodelle: Das Handbuch für Modellbauer Barbara zu Wertheim und Wolfram zu Mondfeld Do you have access to the book? Clark
  14. Hi Olapa67 and all the others, I would be interested if anyone has problems with changing wood length due to changing humidity. My first model (Soleil royal, Mantua) was finished 1998 and was moved to various places in the meantime. I could not detect any damages. Regarding the filler blocks: thanks for initating the discussion. Clark

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