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About Clark

  • Birthday 04/07/1955

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    Ship building of course, books, jogging

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  1. I have started with the first hull planking. First strip of the first hull planking was tapered and glued. To fix the plank tightly to the deck line it was fixed using standard painter tape. I use painter tape very often to fix strips etc. since there are no residuals of glue when removing the tape. For keeping the strips tightly to each other, tape was used further on. For fixing the strips on the frames or on the filler, I made some small screw clamps out of 2 mm walnut wood. The screw clamps also helped to keep the bending at the stern.
  2. Hi Frank First of all, thank you for your response regarding fixatiion and angle of foremast. I would fully agree with you that the fixation shown in the Corel plans is not strong enough. The plan of Fleur de Lis provides a much better solution. Meanwhile I tried to gather old paintings and drawings of this galley type but none of them really shows the way the foremast was fixed. I have finished a xebec last year with a very strong and multiple layered fixation of the foremast. I cannot believe that the fixatiion of the Reale foremast is much weaker than that of a xebec. Regarding the angle of formast in galleys, I found a mixture of perpendicular till almost 10 degree deflection in the paintings and drawings. Maybe one of experts in mediterrian ships may give some hints. Hi Michael, I have just started to build the Reale. It is really a challenge. But the excellent blogs of Frank and the others give you many hints. Moreover it makes really fun to think about the process as already mentioned by Frank. Clark
  3. Just one comment to my calculation: 9-10 degree deviation sums up both the devation of the foremast (6-7) and the slope of the deck (3-4).
  4. Hi Frank, thanks for answering such rapidly. Meanwhile I tried to transfer the foremast decline shown in the Encyclopédie of Diderot and d'Alembert grafic into the corel plans. Althought the waterline may be not congruent, it shows that the formast deviates 9-10 degree from the vertical axis (my degree digits on the plan are not correct, forgot to erase them). I think that deviation is necessary due to the special handling of the lateen sails. Similar deviation can be seen in xebecs and dhows. The upper left picture shows part of the Mondfeld plan of La Dracene with a similar deviation from the vertical axis. I do not know why Corel did not follow the old pictures but I think definitely that it is a mistake. Regarding the fixation of the foremast in the main deck I cannot imagine that it is strong enough to counteract the enormous force produced by the big sail. The number of shrouds is also limited. In addition: one side of the bitt is open also weakening the fixation. Thus I am quite convinced that the plan of La Dracene is quite correct: fixation of the formast at the keel line. Do you know why the foremast could be both on the starboard and port side?
  5. Frank, when looking on the old plans, it seems that the foremast in galleys was not vertical but declined toward the bow. Did you calculate the decline when drilling the tubes in the bitts? The question arised when I was thinking about my best way to proceed. Morever, in the plan I saw, the foremast is fixed at the inner side of the keel. Thus there should be a hole in deck sourrounded by a support. Can you delineate that from your plans of the Fleur? Clark
  6. Hi Frank, the books shows and describes "La Dracène" (1675) but there is a table in the book on the cannon diameter used on galleys. As for the "Coursier", the cannon above the keel line: 36 pounds cannonball; 16.00 cm diameter cannonball; 290 cm length of barrel. // Cannons in La Reale: 36 pounds, 24 pounds (244 cm), 18 pounds (229 cm). Link to a picture of La Reale can be found in my blog. Clark
  7. Deck is dry now fitted and glued. Filler blocks and frames were tapered again to follow the deck line. Deck was planked using the tanganjika strips provided by Corel. Unfortunately, I did not remember the difficulties, I had before with that type of taganjika strips. They are very thin (0.45 mm) and sanding has to be done with great care. Caulking is simulated by black paper (0.25 mm thickness) strips glued between the wood strips (Ratio width caulking/ width plank~1:20). After cutting the paper strips, sanding was first done in the direction from bow to stern to avoid darkening of the wood by dust of the black paper. Next the slots in the decks were cut. To cut the deck slots in regular intervals, a simple metal template with exactly 8.00 mm depth (=distance between the 1.5 mm slots, double arrow in the picture) was made. The metal was tightly clamped on the deck planking to avoid splintering of the wood when cutting the slots. As already said, the thin tanganjika wood is tricky. Rectangular fit and congruency between starboard and port side was controlled by a rectangular metal. Meanwhile I got a hint to a picture of the old Reale. The ship is described in the Encyclopédie of Diderot and d'Alembert, an ancient voluminous Wikipedia. There is so called “planche” showing La Reale. Link: https://www.e-rara.ch/zuz/content/pageview/7088914 . Although this might not really help in building the model it gives an impression how the ship was handled and flagged. I am still wondering how the war prisoners (oarsmen) were treated. Did they have to stay at the oars day and night?
  8. Hi Frank, Hi Hubac; meanwhile I received an answer from the University of Duisburg (not Düsseldorf). It describes a picture of Encyclopédie of Diderot and d'Alembert. Is this the same you took your pinterest photo from? Frank, do you have the book of Mondfeld (picture)? There are plans inside form which you can delineate the size of cannons. Clark
  9. Frank, perfect as expected. Is there a special scroll saw you are working with? Please do not misunderstand me: the outcome results from your skills but a good saw may help. Clark
  10. Thanks Frank, I got the feeling that adjusting the keel in the vertical axis might be a bit difficult since it is not very high and thus may not have sufficient length to attach right angels. I noticed that you have constructed a very sophisticated apparatus ("overkill") probably due to the same thoughts. Hope you can enjoy the following days despite the tough year you had. Clark
  11. Keel is now roughly tapered. The first tapering seemed to be easier to me with no frames in the keel. Fine tuning will follow when frames are glued and sanded. Keel was mounted into a slipway made of wood blocks and right angle metal winkles for later adjusting the frames in the correct position. Frame and keel slots were slightly sanded in that the deck lines of the frames touched the outer lines of the triple frame with no difference in height. It came out that the frames delivered by corel are quite correct. Only minor sanding was necessary. After gluing the frames, deck lines of the frames were again corrected/sanded. Deck line was controlled by attaching strips. Hull side of the frames were roughly sanded after attaching strips and looking to their slope. In two frames, strips 0,5x5mm had to be glued on one side since they did not get in contact with the strip attached. These frames were sanded again. All in all it was a permanent interplay between controlling, measuring and sanding, everybody knows. Filler blocks and wood filler are now added to the first two bow gaps and the last two gaps at the stern. Sanding and controlling the hull line at the bow and the stern again and again. I got the feeling that this sanding and filling procedure is easier without the deck and deck planking attached. There is a good description of producing filler blocks in the forum (http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-framing-and-planking-articles.php…). In contrast to the descriptions mentioned I dry measured size and shape of the filler blocks directly in the ship without making templates. I trust on eyeballing. Ship is now put backwards due to Christmas. Some of children and grandchildren are coming and we are also visiting those living a bit far away.
  12. Hi Frank, fun is garanteed. I look forward to follow your progress. It is really an impressive ship, isnt i? Clark
  13. Hi Frank, I am not as experienced as Hubac s Historian. But just on logical grounds: I would draw the ropes for the middle carriage the other way around the wheels: outside in. At present the ropes get in close contact with the carriage wich would damage them (when the ship would really be in fight). Clark

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