Jump to content

Clark

Members
  • Content Count

    193
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Clark

  • Birthday 04/07/1955

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Leipzig/Germany
  • Interests
    Ships, books, jogging

Recent Profile Visitors

1,205 profile views
  1. Hi Dave, hi wefalk Using the vice of proxxon makes drilling and even sanding really easy but I would agree that fixing to the drilling table is a bit challenging in that you have to be sure to adjust it rectangular. I put a long strip (100cm) in the vice (MS4), adjusted the drilling table (KT70) rectangular to the edge of the work disk and measured and adjusted the deviation of the strip of the edge of the working disk. When no deviation was visible, screws were tightened. Clark
  2. Thanks, the Reale is a great challenge in general. Good luck with your build. Clark
  3. I have started preparing the foremast. As always this takes sone time. Progress is not immediately visible. Upper end of the mast is quadratic. I used the table saw to get it in shape. After making it quadratic I bevelled the mast using the “lathe” described above. Lower end of the mast has to be shaped octogonal and bevelled. I glued a wooden trim on a base with 3° deviation to form a guide bar and adjusted it to a disc sander. To get the mast rotated by 45° and in agreement with the quadratic end, I fixed the quadratic end of the mast in a small vice. Before adjustin
  4. I have installed the midway planks. Just behind the main mast, the lines of the haleyard of the main yard run through the planks. To place the holes in the midway planks correctly, I mounted a preliminary main mast and attached the lines of the haleyard to it. I also installed most of the lines later needed for handling the yards (tackles etc.). I thought it would be difficult to attach them when masts and shrouds are added. The lines were pulled through bee wax (to get a slight stiffness) and carefully flamed (to remove the “hairs”). Next step will be preparing the masts.
  5. Hi Frank, good idea to simulate the holding wire of the davits which is surely more realistic. I am also in the process of attaching the cleats and rigging lines. It will be probably more difficult when masts and shrouds are installed. Clark
  6. Chuck, I think that is a good sign that you are sold out. Just a short question: I noticed that the medway longboat was not available over a longer period of time. Is it on your list? Clark
  7. Frank, glad you are prooceeding. I am not sure if you are running into the same problem as I did. Are you aware that there should be enough space between the swivel guns and the lower railing? Clark
  8. After mounting the swivel guns, I adapted the spars later necessary to support the stern drape (I still hesitate whether to put on the drape or not, it will cover a lot). The cross bar was made out of a tapered 3mm spar. I used my old “lathe” made out of a drill machine on one side and a ball bearing on the other side. Opening of the ball bearing was minimized by a small spar. It is not very sophisticated but I have used it very often before to taper masts and yards. It worked. Tapered bar was glued on a carved support put on the arch construction.
  9. Just browsed through the offers. There are some remarks that the cuts are not very precise. I would also be interested in any answers. Is it possible to design and print ornaments on thin (~0.5mm) wooden planks?
  10. Pinnace kit arrived yesterday (ordered 10 d ago). Looks perfect. Recommendation to all not only to those who like details. Clark
×
×
  • Create New...