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About Clark

  • Birthday 04/07/1955

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    Ship building of course, books, jogging

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  1. I finished the built beginning of this year and had also to think a lot about belaying and rigging. Hints for rigging and belaying of the square-rigged sails were found in the book of Lennarth Peterson: “Rigging Period Ship Models: A Step-by-Step Guide to the Intricacies of Square-Rig” Rigging and belaying of lateen sails simply based on logic: How would I do it when I would be the 1st officer. Finally I found that the number of belaying nails and clamps are not sufficient in the Corel plans. I created some additional ones. Clark
  2. Within all the discussions about CAD and precision modelling, I felt a bit old fashioned when trusting the eyes. Clark
  3. Thanks a lot for the excellent and detailed description. Also thanks for ensuring that eyeballing is a proper method. Clark
  4. You should ask Munich Museum to show it. Perfect. I visited Munich Museum some years ago. Is it the big one in the middle? I can only remember ist as a not well restored. Clark
  5. I bought a similar one (model craft) and did some tests on 1.5 - 2mm planks. It works, but you have to soak the planks intensively before. Clark
  6. Thanks for all the replies. Regarding the voltage problem, we have 230 V in Germany. The one shown is 33 Euro. I ordered it. However, I am already facing the problem that the planks I am working with have to be bended in two directions. I will problably start with a longer test perid when the bender has been arrived. Thanks again
  7. Thanks all for the hints and the tips. You convinced me to buy a plank bender. The one of Aeropicola is not available at least in Germany. Does anybody has ever tested the one shown in the picture? Clark
  8. Dear Kriss, thanks for the tip. Maybe it may also depend on the wood type. Clark
  9. Thanks, it looked larger. Clark
  10. Dear all, does anybody have experience with soaking the strips for some minutes in hot water (~80°C) and bending them directly therafter by fixing on right plyce of the hull? I read it somewhere in the forum. One simple problem for me: One end (stern) maybe easily soaked, but whats about soaking and heating the other end (bow) when the strip is fixed on the hull. It may be a silly question but I did not got a solution so far. Clark
  11. Thats corrrect. Can you put a short comment on the length of the model? Clark
  12. Thanks for the many replies and comments. Just to add my experience with the saw since I bought it several weeks ago: I did a lot of cuts with various types of wood. I mainly used it for making wood filler between frames and for constructing supports in a slipway. Thus no work with the need to be very precise. There were no problems to do straight cuts with a precision of about 0.5 mm in wood pieces up to 20 mm thickness. The only problem I had was doing angular cuts with small wood pieces. I glued the pieces on longer sticks and fixed the miter gauge accordingly. It worked. I would strongly agree that a saw is dangerous. The protection system of the NovelLife is not the best one. Moreover, it sometimes interferes with handling because you cannot hold the wood sufficiently when the protection system is mounted. The speed of the saw can be varied by adjusting the power supply which is comfortable when handling different types of wood. But it probably makes no ´difference when cutting your finger with 12V or with 24V. I did not try it. I would not use the saw for cutting strips for deck planking or hull planking. Clark
  13. Hi Wefalck, thanks for the tip. I will try the Zaponlack next time.
  14. Would totally agree that CA is mostly a no go in rigging. However, I used it once on knots when giving a final fixation with 0.25 mm black rigging lines. The knots were then covered with black ink. Applying the CA was a bit tricky. I made the experience that watered PVA also leads to changes in the colour of rigging lines (depending on the type of lines). Clark

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