Craigie65
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Craigie65 got a reaction from DB789 in Erycina by Craigie65 - Vanguard Models - 1/64 - Plymouth Trawler
Been a while, life 😜
Relatively straightforward second planking.
I worked my way down from the engraved outer bulwark until the counter was covered. Then I decided to work from the garboard up. I find it easier to fit steelers from the garboard up.
This final picture shows a tricky little area. There is a gap at the counter where it meets the sternpost. Need to think how to make that look acceptable. Any suggestions are most welcome.
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Craigie65 got a reaction from Canute in Chris Watton and Vanguard Models news and updates
Would a 2 part kit save on postage? Or do the additional costs of splitting the kit outweigh any savings?
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Craigie65 got a reaction from ubjs in Nisha by DB789 - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham ‘Mumble Bee’
Difficult choice! I was nervous that I would waste a lovely set of sails.
In the end I plumped for RIT scarlet with dark brown in a 50/50 mix. RIT’s website gives formulae for different colours, of course screen and actual life can be very different. Mine turned out a bit more brown than I expected. I think for Erycina, I will go more red and go 60/40 or even 75/25.
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Craigie65 reacted to chris watton in Chris Watton and Vanguard Models news and updates
No, as the weight would still be the same, perhaps a little more due to two boxes.
It is also pointless splitting the model into hull and masts, yards and rig, as the latter three weighs nothing in comparison to the hull.
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Craigie65 reacted to chris watton in Chris Watton and Vanguard Models news and updates
The weight worries me, to be honest. It will be very expensive to ship, being over twice the weight of even a Sphinx kit, and I worry some people may hurt themselves when moving the box - perhaps adding a set of wheels at one end and a handle at the other end of the box would be a good idea!
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Craigie65 got a reaction from DB789 in Nisha by DB789 - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham ‘Mumble Bee’
Difficult choice! I was nervous that I would waste a lovely set of sails.
In the end I plumped for RIT scarlet with dark brown in a 50/50 mix. RIT’s website gives formulae for different colours, of course screen and actual life can be very different. Mine turned out a bit more brown than I expected. I think for Erycina, I will go more red and go 60/40 or even 75/25.
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Craigie65 reacted to DB789 in Nisha by DB789 - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham ‘Mumble Bee’
So Nisha’s hull is nearing completion.
I’ve deliberately taken the rudder and tiller off as I keep breaking them. I’ll leave them off until she’s rigged now as I’ve broken the wooden spigots that join the rudder to the hull and any repair will remain fragile.
I also haven’t done the aluminium chimneys as they need a metal saw which I don’t have yet. I’m waiting for a decals setting solution before applying the decals. The red parts need another touch up too.
I’m really pleased by the way she’s turning out, that’s a testament to the quality of this kit. My entire modelling / woodworking experience is the Fifie, one balsa RC aircraft that never flew and a few plastic models as a kid. I never thought that ship modelling would be within the grasp of my abilities but Chris’s Vanguard fishing boats are giving me the satisfaction of producing genuinely lovely looking models.
However, despite my best intentions I’ve rushed through this build too. Only just over two weeks into building and the hull is almost finished. But at the cost of so many unnecessary breakages. The companionway was extremely fiddly and I broke the roof into six parts, Chris provides a spare as it’s fragile but that broke into eight parts, but it’s wood and all fixable!
Other than the companionway the deck furniture was pretty straightforward.
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Craigie65 reacted to DB789 in Nisha by DB789 - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham ‘Mumble Bee’
Craigie, not my paint scheme, very much influenced by Andrew Johnson, whom I’m shamelessly copying! That would look great on Erycina.
I just put the parts briefly into budget Boots nail varnish remover (the one with acetone in) for a minute then straight into the Carrs solution for 10 mins and it seems to come out properly blackened. The problem is that it’s just covered in a powdery coat of black where the reaction has happened, which both comes off whilst the part is fitted and also marks everything else. I need to find a way of sealing it properly.
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Craigie65 reacted to chris watton in Chris Watton and Vanguard Models news and updates
I have just (well, my wife..) packed up the laser cut parts for Indy and the planking for Jim, which he will receive on Wednesday to start the model of Indefatigable.
All that is in the box is 95% of the laser cut parts (no mast parts done yet), first, second and deck planking strips and 3-d printed parts. No photo etched parts, plans, manual or dowel in the box.
Weight - 12kg! The majority of this weight is just the laser cut sheets.
Also, I underestimated the box size (900x320x140mm), needs to be slightly wider and much deeper!
I think the final weight of the kit will be around 16kg, Sphinx is 7kg.
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Craigie65 reacted to AJohnson in Chris Watton and Vanguard Models news and updates
Another thing to consider is this “waste” often ends up useful for making bits and pieces for scratch built items and details. I keep all my laser cut sheets in a box, you never know when they might come in! 😉
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Craigie65 got a reaction from AJohnson in Nisha by DB789 - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham ‘Mumble Bee’
Looks great. I am thinking of borrowing some of your scheme for Erycina. I am thinking dark green for the engraved bulwarks and black wale and hull to the waterline.
I have had mixed results using Carr’s blackening. You look to have pulled it of. I probably don’t spend enough time prepping the brass beforehand.
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Craigie65 reacted to Glomar in Nisha by Glomar - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham 'Mumble-Bee'
@Craigie65 looking into airbrushes and would love to get your thoughts!
do you have any recommendations for airbrush that you like?
Did you find there was a steep learning curve at all?
Is clean-up or maintenance intensive at all?
Do you use a spray both?
With the stain, did you stain all the planks or just the ones that you left unpainted?
My last couple paint jobs with a brush did not have the best results so I am starting to look into airbrushing but am not sure if it is the easy solution that I might be thinking it is.
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Craigie65 got a reaction from Peanut6 in Nisha by Glomar - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham 'Mumble-Bee'
HI Glomar,
Good to read that you are enjoying the build - that is more than half the battle.
I think you said you were going to paint the hull. As @James H said fill, sand, repeat. The first light coat of paint will show all the imperfections, so fill, sand repeat! I am sure this is the definition of insanity, but that is this wonderful hobby for you!
Keep going!
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Craigie65 got a reaction from JpR62 in Erycina by Craigie65 - Vanguard Models - 1/64 - Plymouth Trawler
Been a while, life 😜
Relatively straightforward second planking.
I worked my way down from the engraved outer bulwark until the counter was covered. Then I decided to work from the garboard up. I find it easier to fit steelers from the garboard up.
This final picture shows a tricky little area. There is a gap at the counter where it meets the sternpost. Need to think how to make that look acceptable. Any suggestions are most welcome.
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Craigie65 got a reaction from wool132 in Erycina by Craigie65 - Vanguard Models - 1/64 - Plymouth Trawler
Been a while, life 😜
Relatively straightforward second planking.
I worked my way down from the engraved outer bulwark until the counter was covered. Then I decided to work from the garboard up. I find it easier to fit steelers from the garboard up.
This final picture shows a tricky little area. There is a gap at the counter where it meets the sternpost. Need to think how to make that look acceptable. Any suggestions are most welcome.
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Craigie65 got a reaction from AJohnson in Erycina by Craigie65 - Vanguard Models - 1/64 - Plymouth Trawler
Been a while, life 😜
Relatively straightforward second planking.
I worked my way down from the engraved outer bulwark until the counter was covered. Then I decided to work from the garboard up. I find it easier to fit steelers from the garboard up.
This final picture shows a tricky little area. There is a gap at the counter where it meets the sternpost. Need to think how to make that look acceptable. Any suggestions are most welcome.
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Craigie65 reacted to Peanut6 in Nisha by Glomar - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham 'Mumble-Bee'
Glomar, you may want to consider saving some sawdust from your hull sanding. I've read that mixing sawdust (of the same wood) with a diluted PVA solution and working it into the gaps works for many builders. I tried it on my planking, in a test prior to deconstruction, and I wasn't too pleased with the results. I wasn't going to paint my hull and there was just enough PVA exposed that things looked blotchy when applied stain. I can't see how this method works better than wood filler especially if it will be painted, but to each their own. I just read a build log where the shipwright took a lightly different approach using the same materials. He very carefully and sparingly filled the gaps with PVA and then pushed/worked sawdust into the gap until he had (what I'll call) a sawdust ant hill. He then came back after it had dried and carefully sanded it down. His results were very impressive and sure seemed to work for him. He wasn't going to paint his hull either and I can see how this method could work better because, in theory, you would have a layer of of like wood sawdust that could take a stain rather than a combination of PVA and sawdust. Again, to each their own and I'm just sharing some information that I've come across.
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Craigie65 reacted to DB789 in Nisha by DB789 - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham ‘Mumble Bee’
Both Andrew’s and Craigie, thank you very much for the advice.
I’ve been playing around to see what works. Sanded down the areas where the paint looked bad first. Then covered most of the model with cling film and only used masking tape to protect the waterline and white trim. I blocked the holes in the bulwark at the bow with blu-tac. Then resprayed the affected areas.
The really bad side (port) has cleaned up very well. There’s just a faint line amidships where the two paint jobs meet.
I only had a small area on the starboard side that needed respraying. This has resprayed fine, but I’ve learnt the limitation of cling film and painting. I’d pressed the cling film tight against the hull, excess paint went on the cling film and it then fused to the hull. So a new area to respray. I’ll need to leave that until the surrounding paint is dry before repeating the process.
Once the paint is fully dry I’ll get some polyurethane varnish on it to protect it.
In the meantime I chemically blacked some brass PE for the first time using Carr’s Metal Black solution. Seems to have worked perfectly.
Thanks again. I’ll brush paint the upper hull next time so I have paint I can brush on to match!
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Craigie65 reacted to Glomar in Nisha by Glomar - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham 'Mumble-Bee'
Thanks @James H and @Craigie65! This has very much turned into a group build with all the help you all are providing so I am glad to say we are getting there!
Whats weird is that the blackish parts that look like gaps are what I think are dried wood glue.
1) Should I try and dig it out a little bit to get some filler in it?
2) Just because I am neurotic- is it possible to over sand? At what point do you all stop? I notice on the first layer or planks and now on this one, it is that gaps start appearing/becoming more noticeable when sanding. Is that normal or am I being too aggressive?
3) For that chip, would you carve it out and replace it with another piece or is it best to just fill it.
Also kind of random, but how do you feel about the garboards? I am not sure if I am getting them right and they seem a little janky to me but I am not the best judge.
One thing I did play around with this morning is adding stealers in the stern. It is a little crude and needs to be sanded but I had fun with it
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Craigie65 got a reaction from Peanut6 in Nisha by Glomar - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham 'Mumble-Bee'
Well done in getting this far! Remember this is your first build.
All our models have a good side 😀.
I think most of those gaps will be below the waterline and therefore painted over. So yo can fill the gaps - acrylic wood filler will be you friend here. You can thin it a little with water to make it easier to get into the gaps. Once dry a sand will left you see what bits you missed - and you will, we all do!
So fill and sand again to get it smooth for a coat of paint.
If you struggle to fit that little chip, then just fill it, it is definitely below the waterline.
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Craigie65 got a reaction from chris watton in Nisha by Glomar - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham 'Mumble-Bee'
Well done in getting this far! Remember this is your first build.
All our models have a good side 😀.
I think most of those gaps will be below the waterline and therefore painted over. So yo can fill the gaps - acrylic wood filler will be you friend here. You can thin it a little with water to make it easier to get into the gaps. Once dry a sand will left you see what bits you missed - and you will, we all do!
So fill and sand again to get it smooth for a coat of paint.
If you struggle to fit that little chip, then just fill it, it is definitely below the waterline.
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Craigie65 got a reaction from Glomar in Nisha by Glomar - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham 'Mumble-Bee'
Well done in getting this far! Remember this is your first build.
All our models have a good side 😀.
I think most of those gaps will be below the waterline and therefore painted over. So yo can fill the gaps - acrylic wood filler will be you friend here. You can thin it a little with water to make it easier to get into the gaps. Once dry a sand will left you see what bits you missed - and you will, we all do!
So fill and sand again to get it smooth for a coat of paint.
If you struggle to fit that little chip, then just fill it, it is definitely below the waterline.
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Craigie65 reacted to James H in Nisha by Glomar - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham 'Mumble-Bee'
Just sand and fill, sand and fill. Most of this is under paint anyway and if you're unhappy with anything above paint areas, you can always extend the scheme a little.
That's not looking too bad at all. Use your fingers to feel for imperfections, then sand as you feel anything.
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Craigie65 reacted to Glomar in Nisha by Glomar - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham 'Mumble-Bee'
I got the second layer of planking done but with mixed results
I tried to get clever on the bottom half by using drop planks; one side came out pretty well, the other not so much. There is a little chip that I need to figure out how to remedy. More glaring though are these dark lines between the bottom half of the planks that I am not entirely sure they are from
@AJohnson @Craigie65 Any recommendations on how to clean it up a bit?
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Craigie65 got a reaction from AJohnson in Nisha by DB789 - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham ‘Mumble Bee’
I too would suggest a coat of matt varnish to bring it together.
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