Craigie65

A confession:
 
I have to start this update with me being given a gentle nudge as to painting reminder about painting convention when it comes to the head timbers. I painted them in black, with ochre insets where the engraved areas were. Whoop! That should almost all have been inverted! I painted the original way because it seemed the logical way, but nope... Here are the newly painted timbers. You'll note that some are now entirely ochre. This is how it should be, if using those conventions. I used a 0.1mm black Edding pen for some details.
 

 
 
With Indy, the waterline marks are supplied as waterslide decals. I used a setting solution with these so that they help to conform to any surface details. First of all though, the application area was painted in gloss varnish. Remember...don't decal to a matt surface!
 

 
 
 
The catheads are now finished and installed to the model. A small section of rail below the cathead, is removed. One of the parts leading to the head timbers will slot under there, with the curved knee sat over the upper edge.




 
 
 
Lastly for now, the timberheads are installed to the gunwales. These are first shaped slightly.

 
 
 
Until later...
 
 

Well recovered, you are nearly there.
 
Loving the paint scheme. If you think the white is too bright for the rubbing strake, perhaps an off-white might be more in keeping?

Well recovered, you are nearly there.
 
Loving the paint scheme. If you think the white is too bright for the rubbing strake, perhaps an off-white might be more in keeping?

011 - Second Planking LHS
I have now completed the second planking layer on the left-hand side. I was really happy with how the first few planks were fitted. I then seemed to find one plank really difficult to fit. So I decided to experiment with the lateral edge bending method to see if that would help.
 
A plank was held  either end of the required bend with clamps. I then glued two small lengths of some planking material off-cuts to make a simple jig, the top off-cut overhung the bottom so when in place it would keep the plank to be bent flat. The jig also allowed me to apply a  required bend to the plank.

With the plank held in place I brushed on some water and then left it dry overnight. I could have applied some heat to sped up the process (with hair dryer or iron). However when the plank was released from the clamps it had retained the bend. I was then very pleased that the laterally bent plank was a perfect fit.

I have attached some pictures of the completed  left-hand side. There will be a little it of work required to sand, fill and smooth the hull below the water line .before the painting process. I still struggle to use super glue (gel) when adding these planks. I start by adding a few drops along the first 50mm (approx) of the plank and then I place it on the hull. Once I am happy the glue is holding the plank in place I add more drops, this time to the hull, under the plank, working in sections. I use a broken micro drill end to add the glue to the hull.  Any excess glue is wiped away.

 

The shackle for holding the fishdavit.  The only reason I know is my Granado has them fitted.  As much as I would like to claim the dram, it is a bit far.  I’ll raise a glass of Talisker to you, Slainte!

010 - Adding the outer patterns and start of second planking
I have now added the outer patterns for the stem, keel and stern post. I have also added the outer bulwark patterns and the first plank underneath the bulwarks.
 
I then added the upper and lower outer stern counter patterns.

With reference to the next photo you will note that I did manage to break the upper outer stern board pattern, indicated by the blue arrow. I will need to tidy up the broken joint area before I apply a coat or two of white paint. There is also a little plank filler required as indicated by yellow arrow.

With a little bit of work the filler piece was added, as indicated by the yellow arrow in the following photo. I have also tidied up the joint where I had broken upper stern board pattern.

 

Many thanks Kevin. You're doing a great job on the Lady Eleanor.  Nisha is a nice easy build (so far). I am really looking forward to the release of the Indy which will be a mammoth undertaking. It took me 11 months to build the Sphinx but I would expect Indy will be 2 to 3 year build project.

008 - 1st Planking RSH Completed
I have now completed the first planking on the right-hand side. After completing the first banding I fitting the garboard plank. Although it was not strictly necessary I did fit this in two halves.

It was then a simple job to fit the remaining two planks to complete the right hand planking. I am very happy with the first planking and it should not take too much sanding to create a nice smooth surface ready for the second planking.

I did stop the planks short of the stern post which will enable to planks to be tapered (thinned) so the second planking will fit flush with the outer stern post pattern.

I will test fit the outer stem post pattern and will trim the planking around the stem post as necessary to ensure there is a nice rabbet for the second planking.

 
 
 

You are not hanging around, are you!  
I reckon the practice on Nisha will stand you in good stead for the Indy.  
Looking at the first two or three planks on the starboard side they seem to be encroaching at the stem (pic number 8).  Will that give you an issue for the second planking?

I don't think there issue with the 2nd planking as I have test fitted the stem outer patterns after fitting the first two planks. When I built the Erycina and Saucy Jack I did end up trimming some of the 1st planking back a bit so the 2nd planking would fit in the rabbet.

You are not hanging around, are you!  
I reckon the practice on Nisha will stand you in good stead for the Indy.  
Looking at the first two or three planks on the starboard side they seem to be encroaching at the stem (pic number 8).  Will that give you an issue for the second planking?

I find the ratlines pretty straight forward.  The clove hitch will be your new friend.  The tricky devils are the shrouds. I always have a fight getting the deadeye spacing right.  I have used various jigs to get the spacing right but it is still a trial. 
Once my ratlines are on I check the spacing before using diluted PVA to lock them in place and trimming the ends.

Really coming to life now. Can’t wait to see the sails set.

Wow Andrew, this is brilliant You have taken the kit to a whole new level!
 

I find the ratlines pretty straight forward.  The clove hitch will be your new friend.  The tricky devils are the shrouds. I always have a fight getting the deadeye spacing right.  I have used various jigs to get the spacing right but it is still a trial. 
Once my ratlines are on I check the spacing before using diluted PVA to lock them in place and trimming the ends.

Amazing Andrew. Love the net and the catch in salted boxes. I believe they salted the catch. I am in awe of your work.
 

I find the ratlines pretty straight forward.  The clove hitch will be your new friend.  The tricky devils are the shrouds. I always have a fight getting the deadeye spacing right.  I have used various jigs to get the spacing right but it is still a trial. 
Once my ratlines are on I check the spacing before using diluted PVA to lock them in place and trimming the ends.

I find the ratlines pretty straight forward.  The clove hitch will be your new friend.  The tricky devils are the shrouds. I always have a fight getting the deadeye spacing right.  I have used various jigs to get the spacing right but it is still a trial. 
Once my ratlines are on I check the spacing before using diluted PVA to lock them in place and trimming the ends.

Hi Richard,
 
Many thanks for your kind words, I've spotted your "Flirt" build and will follow to see how your rigging gets on, lovely build so far.  Think rigging is one of those daunting areas, that you just have push yourself into and it gets better with repetition.  I think half our collective problems are that we can often have years between builds needing rigging and we forget how to do it! (Well I do anyway! 🤣)
 
Yes Chris's figures are marvels of modern 3D printing, so much better than white metal casting, hopefully Chris will add more figures as and when his development schedule allows, is is already a fine selection.

Hey Brian, that might not be the best way of learning from me!  😆 The number you have to do on your fine Granado means you will be a pro by the end.! 😉
 
I have trawled through and these are good discussions below, there is some discussion about pre-soaking in PVA and use of C-A, but I have not tried that.  Also some use little timber clamps on the shrouds to keep things in shape, (see last link for that).
 
If you look closely at my pictures (please don't for too long the naff rigging becomes glaring! 😁) but the one area I had issues with was keeping just enough tension in the ratline to avoid pulling together the shrouds, but not too much so as the ratline could kink up or sideways, a droop down a bit is fine, but as you will see if you look closely I have some 'gravity defying' ratlines! 🙄)
 
The only glimmer of hope I can give is that you do get into a kind of "flow" doing the hitches if you can set aside a reasonable spell to do a few at once.  (Guess it's a muscle memory kind of thing.) 
 
Looking forward to seeing the day you become a Ratline Ninja Brian! 😎
 
 

Really coming to life now. Can’t wait to see the sails set.

@Craigie65 & @HardeeHarHar thank you very much for your kind words and encouragement! 😁
 
Update tonight, the standing rigging is done!  Didn't take as long as I expected, though I always find rigging daunting and a bit fiddly with my fingers and thumbs!  I can see the attraction of "Admiralty Models" with no mast and rigging 😂  but don't think I could personally be happy with stump masts on a model, just me, I know others like them and the larger models/scales mean it is the only option unless you live in a Mansion.
 
Things to finish next are the sails, some of the tissue panels need some attention before I attached the threads/blocks and try to add to the model and bend into shape.
 
Final additions to the model I will make are navigation light boards on the shrouds and the bow roller already mentioned, think these will be the final parts of the build before running rigging.
 
Thanks gain all for following along and the likes/comments, much appreciated. 
 
 

good evening
a lot of sanding 
primed with Halfords grey primer
gaps filled with Bartoline ready mixed fine filler, sand and repeated until happy
red primer below waterline , white primer 9stripe) are Halfords rattle cans
black is hycote satin black rattle can
tamiya tape used to mask lines
not sure about what finish to use if any
 
Paint Primer | Halfords UK
 
Hycote Satin Black 400ml : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

Wow Andrew, this is brilliant You have taken the kit to a whole new level!
 

Making steady progress on the fishing net now, though only in short sessions, as Covid is still giving me a kicking on and off.
 
Using Edgar J March as a reference for dimensions and detail, I'm using some camo netting as a base, this was originally black, so I sprayed it a rusty brown, to tone it down. 
 
For those of you who know how to sew, or enjoy seeing that fine craft in practice, may I advise to to skip along to the next "unread thread" in your feed! 🤣  My efforts at making a net leave much to be desired and I think whole catches of my notorious "Cocktail stick" fish would have no trouble in eluding this trap.  My only consolation is that it is going to be rolled up on deck, so most of it will be hidden.  🎣
 
I've to sew up one side still and then decide if I'm to add all the external details like rubbing pieces or the inner bag and flappers, what's on my mind is that the mesh is quite 'springy' and it might not compress properly and look anything like 'scale'.  Might just try the net as is and see how it looks.
 
Thanks all for looking in and the comments and likes. 😁