Craigie65

Thanks Andy, I will look out for your log when you start.  I think what might have happened was one of the clips slipped, putting a strain across the counter pattern, which as it was soft from soaking, slowly split during the night.  I have just checked it this morning and all is fixed now, all I need to do is a bit of sanding and delete a few posts on this log and no one will know! 😆

Thanks Craig, yes I:m hoping it will be okay once the covering part goes over it. Just need to make sure the underlying profile is correct with a bit of sanding.  Onwards and upwards, 👍

Oh no!  Good recovery - no one will notice 🤫
But seriously once you put part 38 in place it will cover up this area.
The instructions have a lot more clamps on this piece.

Progress so far on building up the hull ready for planking.  So far I am up to stage 51 in the instructions, spent a fair amount of effort in sanding the bulkheads so that the first layer of planking will sit okay, running a plank up and down the bulkheads to make sure there were no areas that didn't sit right.  There is a bit more to do yet in one or two spots, but happy with progress on at least this bit.
 
Then attached the keel and stem patterns and stern post, there was a little opening of some of the bulkhead slots to do to get these in, but no really issues here.
 
But then I tackled step 51 in the instructions and I've bust the kit again! 😖 In my defence I followed the instructions and soaked the stern counter pattern in hot water for half an hour then clamped it into position and left it overnight.  I came back in the morning to the scene in the penultimate picture... oh dear.  ☹️  So I've checked the alignment and just glued my new two-piece stern counter in place!  Think it should be okay with a bit of sanding once dry, I will let you know when you tune into the next instalment of the good ship "Calamity" - "Nisha"! 😨
 
 

That looks fantastic.  Sorry if I have missed this in the thread, is the plan convert to a decal?  That would conform nicely.

My plan is to just use the printed paper strips a method often used on contemporary models, and as used on Chuck's Winchelsea to great effect.
 
I believe at some time in the future Chris is thinking about a decal version for use on his models, but I doubt that will be in the time frame of my build.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.
 
 

That looks fantastic.  Sorry if I have missed this in the thread, is the plan convert to a decal?  That would conform nicely.

Fixing problems in the prow
 
Whilst work was progressing steadily at the stern, things haven't been going quite as smoothly at the sharp end. 
 
Sometime between these two photos I managed to snap off - and more importantly lose - the fragile curly bit:
 
 
I gave up trying to find the errant piece in the black hole that is my workshop and decided to make a replacement from a piece of scrap pear. This is where Chris's scale plans showing every component are particularly handy, as I was able to photocopy the part and stick it to the wood for shaping. Here it is approaching the final shape:

I departed slightly from the original model which consists of three layers - a 3mm wood core sandwiched between 1mm veneers. The latter are a slightly different shape to the core, creating small cut-outs in the final shape (these are visible in the first photo above). I decided I would use a single 5mm thick piece based on the shape of the 3mm core, and wing it if and when I needed the cutouts. After trimming the broken section to provide a firm base I dry fitted the new piece along with the figurehead and upper cheek rails. More work needed!
 
Important note for future builders
 
It was at this point I remembered a warning I read in @glennard2523 and @Rustyj's logs. The manual tells you to fit the cheek rails first, then the figurehead. Unfortunately the figurehead has a dovetail-type base which means it can only slide in to the prow from the side, which will be obstructed by the lower cheek rail. In fact the rail in the manual has been broken to fit the figurehead. Chris got the order right in the plans (Sheet 5) which describe and illustrate a very clear set of steps for constructing the bow area (@chris watton for info).
 
Anyway, to cut to the chase, here's the current state of play, with the repair in place along with the figurehead and cheek rails:
 

Now I'm looking forward to fitting more of this lovely photoetch decoration.
 
Derek
 

Thanks for the likes and comments.   Sadly, the other side isn't looking as good.  Trying to clean up the mess removed some of the line of the planking.   <sigh>  Looks like this will be "back" side of the display.   Still need touch ups.....
 
Edit... forgot the photos. Here they are.

Today I worked on the quarter galleries. I still have a few other things to do before they get mounted, but I've been a little excited to get to them. Mostly because I was really impressed with the way @realworkingsailor crafted a more three dimensional version for his Pegasus Build and I couldn't wait to try it - with a bit of my own flair of course.
     I started by adding some additional dimension to the frieze and carvings. The Amati kit uses a couple different layers of photo etch to try to create carvings, but I felt I could add a little more - so I coated the photo etched pieces with yellow ochre, then I went through and carefully dabbed some areas with bits of yellow ochre acrylic and then let it dry.  Then I went through and air brushed a VERY light coat of white, then back over it with Vallejo's yellow ochre "air".  
 
 
 
 
 
  On to the quarter galleries themselves.  First step, mark out where they're going to be, then make room with the trim and drill out the space creating a cabin inside and paint it black. Next up, I cut out and shaped some balsa (just as Realworkingsailor did) to give dimension.  One of the most difficult and delicate parts of this operation was separating the window frames which are laser cut as one piece. I used a jeweler's saw with my thinnest blade and very gentle cutting.  Any little gaps are filled with "wonderfill" filler and then the whole thing is painted black and the photo etching is added.  I didn't take photos of that bit, but extra care is needed to bend the pieces to fit the now three dimensional gallery.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
    Now, my favorite part!  I finally figured out that the best way to shape my little microscope slide covers is to carefully hold them against the belt sander!  I marked the shape I needed with a sharpie, and the belt sander worked great.  It was fast enough not to shatter the piece and also half melted half sanded the glass into shape.  It was then glued in place using white glue that dries clear. I actually prefer fabric stitch glue here because it's tackier.  The galleries are just sitting in place for the moment and will be permanently mounted later.
 
 
 
 
 

 
  The glass is a bit of a pain obviously, but it looks really good.  I purposely took pictures with an angle where the light reflected so you can see it, but the photos don't really do it justice. Really clear straight on, then catches the light.  As I said, I picked up the tip from a guy on a train model forum and he was right: nothing looks quite like glass, like glass looks like glass.
   Next up - Starboard side.

Nice modification Bug, it looks  spot on. 👍
 
B.E.

These are amazing. Are they 3D renders? 

Wow that really is fantastic!  Would love to build a fully framed ship, but don’t have the skills to scratch build. If I take the plunge this is the way to go.

thats lovely @cafmodel
 

Wow that really is fantastic!  Would love to build a fully framed ship, but don’t have the skills to scratch build. If I take the plunge this is the way to go.

Yes

These are amazing. Are they 3D renders? 

Current work progress

Good to see its free of the cradle. Looks very nice!

https://www.scalemates.com/products/img/3/1/1/192311-23-instructions.pdf

Post Fifty.
 
Completing the Galleries.
Now is the time it will become apparent whether my meddling has adversely affected the proper lie of the window and berthing patterns.

1696
Starting with the inner window pattern.
 I have worked on the basis of keeping the frame unaltered and running along the top line flush with the top of the frame.
I am using pva for this fixing to give me time for minor adjustments to the position. The outer pattern is checked for fit before the inner sets.
I was always expecting to have to do a fair amount of fettlin’ as I had  gone off piste with the gallery construction, and so it came to pass.
The day didn’t start well, the dog ate one of the outer window patterns another split during fitting, and the back edge of the assembly seemed to overhang the stern facia by 1mm, almost certainly due to my fiddling with the frames.
Not an unsurmountable issue as I will fix a work-around.
 
The Berthing piece is a short strong section of Pearwood that should follow the curve of the  pattern (45c).
I felt the need to soak this piece and  shape using the pattern I no longer needed as a former.

1694
In the end I scratch made the Berthing patterns to better fit my build.
The Berthing was pinned over this former and left overnight.
On the subject of Berthing patterns I had some discussion with James about which way around they were fitted.

1700(2)
It would seem that the end with the broader angle (on the right here)  fits at the stern end and butts against the Upper counter.
As the decorative mouldings follow the relative lines top and bottom around the stern counter and gallery this makes sense.
 
So, the basic portside gallery is completed.

1721(2)

1722

1720
My purpose in undertaking this modification is to bring a sense of light and element of depth to the Quarter Galleries rather than a dead black space behind the lights.
Opening up the doorway and the absence of planking on the Quarterdeck will fully achieve this.

1730
 
 
Rather than use the provided Upper counter outer pattern I planked the counter with individual Pear strips.
I  don’t intend to use the etched brass lettering on the counter and I didn’t want the pre marked positions limiting my choices.
 

1745
A little more work is required on the lower finishing piece where it meets the wale but overall I am fairly satisfied thus far.

1731(2)

1732(2)

1733(2)
I’ll leave this aspect of work until I receive the replacement window part for the Starboard Gallery.

In the meantime it’s back to port lining, at least with the outer Topsides patterns now in place it is easier to see how the linings should sit.
 
B.E.
10/12/21
 

 

Dave,
Looking good. I know what you mean re instructions.  The Amati/Victory instructions are better than most. The instructions for HMS Diana from Caldercraft are really difficult to follow.  You should check out Vanguard’s manuals - plenty of pictures as well as plans.  Chris Watton has really set a high bar.
Once you have a couple of builds under your belt the instructions become more of a guide. 

Thanks Chris, yes a bit more bending was probably in order, but once a few slots had clicked into place I sort of panicked a bit and kept pushing the false deck home.  All good in the end and the tabs come off later, so good tip folks - bend that false deck!
See what happens when you release your precious kits into the world! - They are fine when gently caressed by you and James, but out in the wild, rough B@G&*ers like me start abusing them... 🤣

I must admit I just use trade wood glues, as I assume if joiners are happy to put furniture and the like together with it, then it should be more than adequate for a wooden model.  I think I have a 1 Litre tube on the go at the moment from "Ever-build" but I also have some tubes of "Titebond" on the go.  I did get some "model" PVA glues once, but the price/Litre is way more than trade for what I am sure is the same stuff.

What brand of glue are you using?  I usually buy veloset from a hobby shop in Edinburgh, but wonder if a commercial brand would be better value.