dnputnam

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 48 – Starboard Ceiling Treenailing and Bolting
 
In the first picture, the floor ceiling planking is installed except for Treenailing.  The thicker bilge ceiling above it  has been completed up to the underside of the lower deck clamp, except for the bolting.
 
 
 
While the last few strakes of bilge ceiling were being installed both the bolting and treenailing was begun.  The next picture shows some of these fasteners installed.
 

 
The copper wire bolts in the thicker ceiling show as bright dots in this picture.  They were iron bolts driven through each frame and riveted flush inside and out.  Before finish is applied these will be blackened.  This section of floor planking below the thicker strakes has been treenailed and some sanding has begun.  The butt ends of these planks were secured with iron blunts, represented here by black monofilament CA glued in.
 
All of the tree nailing was completed in three sessions that included making the treenail strips from bamboo skewers.  In the next picture one of these .020” strips has been dipped in glue and is being inserted into a predrilled hole.
 

 
The holes are just large enough for a slip fit.  After pressing to the bottom of the hole using the clippers, the strip is cut off as shown below, the new end is sharpened with a razor blade and the process is repeated a few hundred times.
 

 
The excess glue is washed off with clean water.  When dry the nail heads are filed off flush as shown below.
 

 
The planking was then sanded with 120-grit followed by 220-grit paper and then buffed with Scotchbrite as shown below.
 

 
The next picture shows the area at the stern after these steps.
 

 
The next picture shows a section of the ceiling after all of the treenailing was installed and the planking sanded and buffed. 
 

 
The wire bolting of the thicker strakes is only partially complete on the right side of this picture. The treenails are not too pronounced in this picture, but they will “pop out” and be more visible when finish is applied later.  The iron bolts at the butts are quite visible here.  The copper bolts into the top of the keelson at the lower margin of the picture were copper and will not be blacked.
 
All of the ceiling work on the starboard side is now complete.  The next step will be to sand down the bolts on the outside of the frames and then move on to the ceiling on the port side.
 
 Ed

Thank you for the kind words Antony.
 
Well I've pre fit all the bulkheads. Just some minor sanding of the slots was needed so it didn't
take as long as anticipated. Here is the first bulkhead in place. I clamp the angle piece in place
to hold the bulkhead square until the glue sets up. I do one bulkhead fore and one bulkhead
aft at a time and work my way to the center.
 

Thanks Greg, I think I started doing that on the Confederacy.
 
Glad to have you here Jim. Are you going to make it up to CT for the show?
 
Hi Dirk, I hope you do build her. I would love to see it.
 
Also thanks everyone for stopping by and all the likes.
 
I had a great weekend. The real world left me to my devices  and I had a lot of
shop time.  Bulkheads are all cut out and stacked as previously mentioned and I
then attacked the bulkhead former . It is laid out in two pieces and I thought of
just cutting it out as one whole piece. But as Chuck pointed out to me that getting
one piece of plywood that long that wouldn't twist would be extremely difficult.
So after an unsuccessful search I relented and cut it from two pieces. I knew  I
shouldn't have wasted my time but then again I'm not known for my better
judgment and decision making.  
 
Any way the former plans were cut out and glued up, then I cut it out on the scroll
saw and fine tuned it with the disk sander and a sanding block. Once satisfied I
applied glue to both pieces, put wax paper over and under the joint, placed a scrap
board on it and some heavy weights and allowed it to dry over night.
 

 

 

 

 
Now I will test fit all of the bulkheads and then start gluing them up.  

Thanks for stopping by Daniel.
 
Well I'm back and I have got a start on cutting the bulkheads out.
 
Care was used to ensure the plywood I have is free of warping. There are 27 bulkheads
to cut out. I used my standard method of cutting the individual bulkheads from the plans
and glued them one at a time to the plywood using a temporary paper craft glue. This
allows for removal of the plans should I so desire.
 
 
 
Once the bulkheads have been cut on the scroll saw I use my x-acto knife to score the
various reference lines that will be needed later. This is done just in case the plans are
removed from the bulkhead later.
 

 
I then take the bulkheads and make stacks of about 6 bulkheads of similar size and shape
and place a heavy weight on the to help ensure that they do not warp while I finish cutting
the remaining bulkheads and the former.
 

 
Well I'm off to cut more bulkheads out.  
 

Flash or no Flash? 
 
We often hear that we should not use the flash for our modelships. Flash is a hardlight which produces hard shadows. One way to correct this is to diffuse that source of light. Photographs use umbrellas and softboxes. This week I tried http://www.garyfongestore.com/   lightsphere. It is like a white transparent plastic installed around the flash. It acts as a lamp shadow. Here are examples of pictures taken with the flash and the lightsphere.  Except for the middle one, that I intentionally kept even if it is over exposed in part, results are interesting and color rendition is close to what we see with our eyes. We can see oiled and natural cherry.  In the last picture, beams are cut so that we can see the cherry grain ‘’nice side’’.

Build log part 15
 
 
 
 

togallant platforms
 

Connection to cap and spars (on the two mainmasts)
 

 
 

 

alignment checks before soldering parts together
 

the lower top is moved to the correct Position, then secured with a pin to the mast
 

Mast rail shoe that goes to the appropriate yardrack
 

set of uncompleted masts and jib boom
 

 
 

some paint touch ups done, now ready for inserting portholes (bulls eyes)
 
 
 
 
 
Build log part 16 to follow....
 
Nils

Build log part 14
 
 
Starting to do parts of the masts
 
 
 
 
 

plattforms for the lower tops (multifold soldering Piece)
 

 
 

These will be slipped on to the mast and later secured in Position by a pin
 

handrails at rearside of plattforms
 

 
 

 
 

chocolate Brown Color at poop and forecastle upper portions
 
 

anchorchain portholes mounted
 

other porthole openings drilled but no inserts yet
 
 

White paint on...
 
 
 
 
 
Build log part 15 to follow....
 
Nils

Build log part 13
 
 
 
 
Time to get primer and paint started...
 
 
 

dull White resin based primer is brushed on
 

the rudder has been plated as well, but the prop is too small in diam.
 

found this one at a web-shop, and modified it a bit, cut off the eye and drill a M3 thread into the hub
 

figure is 1:87 (H0) scale)
 

 
 

here and the next pics the White Portion is only primered
 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
Build log part 14 to follow....
 
Nils

Thanks for the "likes"...
 
Sam,
I'm happy with the way this is going.  Really happy. 
 
Mobbsie,
I was hoping for some wise words... but I'm glad you like what you see. 
 
 
Update time,  yippee!!!
 
The backbone is complete.  (Almost.. forgot to finish trim the keel at the stern according to the picture).  The stem has been appropriately (I think) tapered and now attached to the keel.   The deadwood was made from the cherry since I didn't have any boxwood thin enough and attached along with the sternpost.   And, an rudder blank has been made. 
 
I discovered that misinterpreted the plans on V 1.0 for the stern deadwood and the sternpost.  The deadwood on V 2.0 isn't tapered but the sternpost and keel need to be.  It appears that the best way will be after planking when the planks, keel and sternpost can all be done at once.  Or least that's the way it appears in the Hahn photos.... 
 
I can now go wander off and fiddle with cleaning up the salvage parts, maybe make some bits and pieces, etc. while waiting for my framing wood to show up. 
 

Thank you all for your nice remarks and for all the likes.
 
Today I did do the eye-splice for the topping lift it was harder to do than I expected.
 

 

 
I eneded up gluing the ends of the three strands to create a stiff end to thread under the lay.
 

 
I found that it was a bit easier to have the rope clamped to the bench and then be able to pull on it while doing the threading
 

 
Looped over the boom
 

 

 

 

 
I also sanded the top of the cockpit walls ready to start on the cap.
 

 
The first piece of wood for the boat it was 2 years ago this month that I began building this cutter, this first picture of one of the frames was taken on March 9th 2012,  it seems like it was both yesterday and years ago at the same time.
 
Michael
 

Wild cats and all... Willy in the background playing "On the Road Again".   Anyway, here's an update.
 
Keel is ready....  keelson is being re-used.  It's cherry and will be hidden so why re-invent the wheel.
 

 
The stem is just about there.  I'm sorting out a way to make the caulking/felt lines better.  There seems to be something (not sure how it happens) that when there's a very tight fit, the glue line disappears.  A good thing?  Or an aggrevation?  The stem still needs some mill work for the gammoning holes and two (I think) through holes for the bobstays.  The plans aren't clear on this and pictures from the article and the CD aren't clear in this area.  Also trying to sort out the taper on this, if any.
 

 
I'm currently redoing the sternpost in boxwood.  The picture shows the Version 1.0 sternpost and rudder that were never put on the old ship.  I'm thinking about the rudder given the wood contrasts based on the test, I'm trying visualize if I should re-do it boxwood or not.
 

Build log part 12
 
 
 
The ultimate GF 2 actual Version has rivited plates to the frames and also welded plates for horizontal seams. As I do not exactly know to what degree the riviting was in 1958 when launched, I "rivited" the entire models hull. Perhaps someone may now better...
 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
Build log part 13 to follow.....
 
Nils

Build log part 11
 
 
 
 
 

the ladder like fields dimensions orientate on the grating (later fitted) measurements
 

the boatrack supports are screwed done under the same screws as the pinrack rails
 

welldeckview looking foreward
 

the functional flip launching boards shall take up the inflatable raft Containers (here closed)
 

here flipped open, also the Center Support deck to boatrack Support can be seen
 

here the plating of the hull Begins. The main plating to be seen in the next build log part
 
 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
Build log part 12 to follow....
 
Nils

Build log part 10
 
 
 
 
 

main work on the hull done now, ready for the plating
 

Crew rest racks
 

bulwarks still Need upper handrails
 

soldered brass jib boom fitted in and angle checked
 

handrail for bow bulwark
 

bow view of hull bump rails
 

rather "empty" decks
 

 
 

 

Fitting in for the racks of the boatstation
 
 
 
 
 
Build log part 11 to follow...
 
Nils

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 47 – Bilge and Floor Ceiling
 
The first picture shows the 8” thick bilge ceiling being extended up the underside of the lower deck clamp.  The clamp would have been edge bolted down into these thick members.  With the clamps and frames they formed a sort of girder over the length of the hull to combat hogging.
 

 
I mentioned earlier that these 8” x 8” bilge ceiling members required some serious clamping to close their joints.  The next picture shows some remodeled clamps used to assist in this work.
 

 
In these clamps the old jaws were replaced with stronger versions.  I used the strongest wood I could find in my old scraps collection.  The dark colored jaws are black walnut and the lighter ones hickory from and old axe handle.  The walnut clamps had the ends of their jaws narrowed down to fit between the frames from the outside.  The next picture shows a pair of these being used to close up a joint.
 

 
Up near the deck clamp, soft pine wedges could be used to close the joints as shown in the next picture.
 

 
The next picture shows the hull inverted so the epoxy bolts on the outside could be sanded off – to help save my hands when working from the outside.  There are many more of these bolts to add as the bilge ceiling progresses.
 

 
The next picture shows the first few strakes of 4” thick floor ceiling installed.  The contortions from the convex to the concave hull shape made this interesting at the ends.
 

 
All of this 4” and 8” thick ceiling was of hard pine, so I am using Castello for it.  Pear is being used for all oak.  The next picture shows a strake being installed using .021" pleating pins in tight drilled holes to hold it in place when glued.
 

 
The dark area is wet from washing off glue from between the strakes.  One edge of these planks is coated with dark brown latex paint (before ripping) and dark glue has been used on that face.  Plain yellow glue was used on the frames and washed off from the outside between the frames with a wet toothbrush.  In the next picture the floor ceiling has been completed down to the limber channel.
 

 
Several stealers had to be installed so the final strake would be parallel to the keelson.  The next picture shows the limber channel.
 

 
When this picture was taken, the planking had been leveled out with rifflers and some sanding.  Bolts were then installed at the ends of each plank.  Each plank will next be treenailed at every frame.  Can’t wait.
 
 
 Ed

Build log part 9
 
 
 
 

time to do the hull outside rails, use semiround 1 x 2mm nutwood here
 

gives o nice border to the deck
 

get the parallel distance to the first rail
 

the Pins do`nt go through the rails, because of using CA here there would`nt be enough time for pushing the Pins in after Fixing the position
 
 

 
 

propshaft claddings attached
 
 

the lowest rail is the most tricky one
 

 
 

rails completed, hull not so naked anymore
 
 

this is the actual stand
 
 
 
 
Build log part 10 to follow....
 
Nils

Build log part 7
 
 
 
 

building up the bulwarks
 

and top Planks at forecasle
 

Need to pull equal on portside as well
 

the upper Stern Portion shall be planked verticly
 

bow bulwark planked verticly and roughly trimmed
 

 
 

all planking done, now the sanding can begin
 
 
 

vertical planking provides nice following of the curves
 
 

smooth finish, no dents, no scratches...
 

remaining material on sternpost appr. 50% of the raw planking, other planking random about 75-80 %
 
 
 
 
Build Log part 8 to follow....
 
Nils

Build log part 6
 
 
 

this ship was not designed to be a cargo vessel
 

planking good under way
 

time for checking if no sub-deck Counters have been forgotten...
 
 

 
 

 

finaly the last fit to size plank Closes the opening
 

should be a fine base surface for sanding, due to the single layer planking, the Progress goes on quite swiftly
 
 

14 Planks per side, keel to welldeck
 

still quite easy going..
 

The Planks that also form the bulwarks are mounted
 
 
 
 
Build log part 7 to follow....
 
Nils

Build log part 5
 
 
 
 

the first portside plank, pine 2 x 10mm, is fixed against the Frames to find the best fit in its gentle natural curve following the hull lines
 

and then glued on permanently
 

the second plank follows willingly
 

on this build I am not using additional stringers
 
 

the same done on starboard side to avoid possible Twist in the hull
 

the Gorch Fock is a fine model to plank, no risky bends, no watering of planks
 

the 2mm thick planking will allow sufficient material remaining after sanding later on
 
 

having no Problems with the planking
 

short propshaft in sleeve tube M3 thread for prop (the brass prop to be Exchanged against a larger one later on, because I cold`nt find a 28-30mm diam. brass prop with M3 thread in the hub)
 

Counter device for stand bolts with reinforced keel sides there
 
 
 
 
 
Build log part 6 to follow...
 
Nils

Build log part 4
 
 
 
 

view pinrack section
 

the holes for the masts made and a spare anchor lashed to the foreward deckhouse
 

the triangle like parts are lockers at the poop bulkhead and are taperd because they fit underneath stairs from well- to poopdeck
 

mastgarden and other pinracks fitted
 

 
 

 
 

 

 

 
 

eyelets for ropeguide Tacklings and pinracks on forecastle deck for the each 4 jib-sails sheets
 
 
 
 
Build log part 5 to follow....
 
Nils

Build log part 3
 
 
 
 
 

poopdeck eyelets
 

preparing for the welldeck pinrails
 

These pinrails are designed to withstand Forces initiated by the later rig
 

wear sections of the pinrails bear brass inserts
 

 

 

eyelets for foremast shrouds and backstays
 

especially the eyelets for the shrouds and backstays have to be well countered from beneath the decK
 
 

 

 
 
 
 
 
Build log part 4 tofollow....
 
Nils

Build log part 2
 
 
 
 

the decks are checked if all Planks are free of marks
 

and checked for fit in the foreseen places
 

poopdeck bulkhead and midship deckhouse get paint and portholes
 

stairs checked, doors, handrails mounted
 

 

 

 
 

the many eyelets are placed and secured from under the decks
 

Frames look OK so far
 

mantaining the deck curvature while the glue is curing
 
 
 
 
Build log part 3 to follow....
 
Nils

Hello friends.
Thanks to all for his kinds comments.
 
Cannon barrel and gun carriage in the scale of 1:24,
built in between for demonstration purpose.
 
Karl

Garry, Nils, and John, thank you for following along with the encouraging remarks.
 
I worked at building the boom rest at the base of the mast today. I began by reshaping a stick of very fine grained spruce firewood. I stuck it to a piece of fir with some carpet tape so that I could clamp it in the vice to plane it to shape.
 

 
Using just the block plane to start I rough shaped the stick to a sort of pear-drop type shape
 

 
Then switching to my long small chisel I cut the recess below the curve.
 

 
This was followed by a small gouge to completed the shaping, I decided not to sand the surface but to just leave the cut surface.

 
Another piece of the same firewood was used to make the top ring to fit around the mast, I glued the sections together 2 at a time without clamps but by rubbing the two surfaced together , I find this works just as well as clamping if not better in some cases.
 

 
The form piece was cut to short lengths to act as support blocks under the ring, their sides were hand sanded using the shooting board with a block of wood with sandpaper glued to it which acted like an sanding plane
 
The blocks and the two halves of the ring were then glued to the mast.
 
.
 
Walter's viewpoint
 

 
Tomorrow some parrel beads and then some more tackle. perhaps I will have a go at making the topping lift eye splice.
 
 
Michael

Alright, photos as promised.
 
The stern anchor pocket is little more than a light baffle on the model. Given the confines of the area, and the limits of actual visibility, not much more is needed. The pillar in the middle is to correct a downwards bow in the deck at that point, and will remain in place.
 
As I said earlier, all the hull sections are now in place, as well as now the last remaining deck section. There is a considerable ammount of filling and sanding needed in order to clean everything up. Having the hull finished means I can also get to work installing some of the deck fittings, bollards and fairleads and the like. Since they will all start out being painted the same colour as the deck, I'm not worried about work arounds at this time.
 
Anyway, one more overview shot, from the stern this time.
 
Yes... she's big.... 4' 8" long...
 
 
Andy