JanV

That lantern looks great. I myself decided to skip this for the time being, but I will try to search some archives from Maritim Museums in the Netherlands to find pictures of paintings from that period which might give a good idea, but when I am in this stage that will take some years.
 
I can further agree with you concerning the quality of the blocks provided in the  kit, these are perfect to start the BBQ in the summer, and I bought the same type of blocks a few year back at a shop in Poland, which was easier for shipment within Europe and no risk for extra custom charges.
 
I am going to save a lot of your log for future use as I am starting to finalize the rigging shortly and can use a lot of your information.
 

That lantern looks great. I myself decided to skip this for the time being, but I will try to search some archives from Maritim Museums in the Netherlands to find pictures of paintings from that period which might give a good idea, but when I am in this stage that will take some years.
 
I can further agree with you concerning the quality of the blocks provided in the  kit, these are perfect to start the BBQ in the summer, and I bought the same type of blocks a few year back at a shop in Poland, which was easier for shipment within Europe and no risk for extra custom charges.
 
I am going to save a lot of your log for future use as I am starting to finalize the rigging shortly and can use a lot of your information.
 

Thanks again, yes your constructive criticism is much appreciated, as it has been from other members who where kind enough to take the time to post suggestion comments. Your historical knowledge is super impressive as I have also noted from reading other logs at which you add historical information. Kudos to you. 
 
Also, thanks for looking up, and sending jpg,s of excellent contemporary lantern examples. Yes indeed mine will wilt by comparison. Those are so detailed and much more first class examples, if you will.
But for, me I don’t have the skill set nor the energy to delve deeper, again into this project’s very complicated looking stern lanterns. It (this build) has gone on too long  - need to move on. I had wanted to copy Alexander's and had made a folder from his log sometime back.
 
But for-all-intent-and-purposes she is done, exclusive of a few shrouds here and there. I will have the case cover measured and made next week BUT…….
 
Still need to;
Add, shape, and rig the five flags (PS: incorrect Corel supplied flag examples no less)
Make two keel bracing structures
Fix two broken mast platforms
Re-install missing cannon doors
Touch-up paint hull and deck gilded figures.
 
Grrrr (need to move on)  haha
 
The stern lantern will have to be what it will be, especially per Fred Hocker’s remarks with Alexander regarding the still missing lantern.
 
……I do, again much appreciate your sage advice, and comments about how you consider my kit build to to be a good example of how a kit can be improved upon.  and conversely how this lantern may detract, a bit, the project.
 ========================
 A few more photos of the, well, lantern lol…I will foil the top with gold leaf, bottom – not sure yet.
PS2: I did order six figurines from Corel (the ones that are above the upper galeries, I may add those to the six sides of the lantern if they look "ok" after receiving them, This would add Vasa correct detail per what Corel supplied.
 
Regards,
 
 
 
 

Hubac's:
Thank you for your post much appreciated. I am Familiar with Alexander’s lantern. It is indeed a very excellent scratch built example. That said see the notes below from his log, along with Fred Hocker’s response.
============================
 The design of Landström seems to me as enormously heavy. All over golden I can imagine the lamp is too dominant. Maybe I'm going to the roof copper or anthracite to make it look visually slightly smaller.
Cheers, Alexander
 
From Fred Hocker
I agree that Landström's design is pretty heavy, and I am not sure that it fits the style of the rest of the stern that well.
We also do not have any sculptural pieces anything like what he shows, so I wonder if the lantern was not so elaborate, more of a glazed house for the lights. (underlining is mine)
Having the roof of the lantern and its finial mimic the cupolae on the quarter galleries is a possibility, but in that case I would expect the bottom to look more like the lower part of the gallery.
The glass panes are probably rectangular, about 150x100 mm (we have a lot of fragments of glass this size)rather than the diamond shape BL shows. You have the mounting exactly right.
 
=======================
 
In the meantime I’m still playing around with this particular after-market example.
I just ordered some gold leaf from Bare-Metal (Amazon). I might just leaf the top and bottom in gold instead of the copper that I’m playing with. The importantly missing details would be the air four vents at the top. I’m playing with some ideas.
 
I do appreciate your advice, and thanks for the nice comments regarding this build. I may still, in-fact,
 
 
just make one as your suggestion and reasoning are very appreciated.
 
Last photo from a Museum video about the sinking
 
Sincerely,
 

Time to start work on the stern lantern. Noting that any lantern I attach will prob. not represent the actual lantern, a part that was never salvaged.
 So based on Landström’s drawings, the most representative is the one on the left side of first photo. I also note that the 1/10th, as well as several other important replicas do not include a lantern.
Wanted to, in any case, add some extra details to the one I chose to use. Then, I remembered that from my model car days I still had several types of foils. So, used the copper. Did not have any gold.
 Here are a few preliminary shots. Need to figure out the candle, and how to paint, and detail the plastic housings.
 

 
 

Denis: There are four very visible coils in a sparse and very open area mid deck, attached to kevels that needed to lie spooled on the deck. Those I felt needed extra attention, otherwise I agree with you – not worth the extra detail work. Just coiling a spool and laying it above the cut end is just about perfect.
============
Those four + two are done, now onto the bow area.
 

 
 

Frank, So honored that you really like my work especially coming from such a skilled and detailed builder such as yourself so very kind, and much appreciated indeed. Your weathering detailed work is at a level that I will never personally achieve. Your Alert quickly comes to mind.
 EJ, yes you are right that is indeed, for us, unimaginable indeed.
 Denis, thanks.
 Mates,  as always thanks so much for following along as well as the likes.
===========================
 Finishing up loose ends on the weather deck. Using the same technique that I used for the pin coils. Here are a few pics FYI
 
Cheers,
 

 
 
 

Attached the triangular deadeyes. Earlier, I did not manage to bend cupper wire around them, so I had thought to fall back to rope. However, I found conveniently on the Czech website photo-etched clamps for (triangular) deadeyes.
It was not easy to get the clamps trought the holes in the metal bars, but I found that I could squeeze them bigger using a hand drill to open the bended metal bars.

Martyn: as always thanks so much.
EJ: Funny - yes old stuff can come back around
==========================
This is of course old (normal) news to all of you “veterans” reading this particular post, rigging being a big part of  most builds.
 
That said, I was actually a bit overwhelmed when so many lines just kept flopping onto the weather deck with the addition on running sail rigging lines. This build being my first effort at (exclusive of the very simple first Santa Maria back in the mid 70s) adding hung, and furled sails along with making sure that all needed shrouds, blocks, pin holes were included for all three masts using plans from three diff. sources was a reach for me at the time. Learned as I progressed (along with many mistakes) but
 
– it actually worked out  - to my big surprise - Two pics.
1) my “overwhelmed time” photo, and
2) the almost finished results. 
 
Yes, I know you've all been there. and I have seen amazing very helpful rigging logs here at MSW - I had not been there - a challenge well worth the personal effort IMO.
 
Regards,

 
 

So found a solution to the slacking rope.
Denis, thanks you were also to be part of my answer.
EJ, I had thought of that, but was concerned that the diluted glue might remove some of the rope details, and remain visible. AND that I would mess it up.
 So:
1) Yes, add resistance to the rope.
2) Using the Admiral’s starch dribbled some onto a paint brush
3) Applied all over the rope making sure it got a good soaking.
4) Used a hair dryer (low heat) to dry the starch.
5) Waited a few minutes and then removed the clamps; hurrah ropes remained looking taut.
 
Came out perfect, and starch disappeared once dry (as it should) leaving the rope, well, starched stiff.
 
Too simple - took a while to think of this haha
 
Frank as always thanks
 

Hi Mates,
 Took some “away” time off (first flight in a B787 - sweet machine) back at the shipyard. It was also nice catching up to some of the yards that I have been following - still some to go  Such talent here at MSW.
Finished up the buoys and installed both anchors. Need to do a lot of touch up work as well (cannon doors, painted figures etc.)
Also working on a visual fix for the anchor block ropes so that they won’t look slack – but instead appear to bear the weight of the anchors.
If it works I’ll share FYI. -- In fact I want to do this for many other slack hanging ropes along the hull, and off of the sails where ropes running through blocks don’t look right.
 
 
Cheers,
 

Jan,
 
Very nice space you are working on !! Look forward to your continued logs for the Vasa.
 
Regards,

We have completed the renovation of our living and kitchen
 
Just an impression with the Vasa already present. Just waiting now for a final cabinet on which a place is reserved already for the Vasa (even in progress)
 

 
Further I have re-organised my wood. This is an old cabinet used for drawings (aged back to 1960) and will be used also by my wife for the storage of her hobby paper for Origami.

We have completed the renovation of our living and kitchen
 
Just an impression with the Vasa already present. Just waiting now for a final cabinet on which a place is reserved already for the Vasa (even in progress)
 

 
Further I have re-organised my wood. This is an old cabinet used for drawings (aged back to 1960) and will be used also by my wife for the storage of her hobby paper for Origami.

We have completed the renovation of our living and kitchen
 
Just an impression with the Vasa already present. Just waiting now for a final cabinet on which a place is reserved already for the Vasa (even in progress)
 

 
Further I have re-organised my wood. This is an old cabinet used for drawings (aged back to 1960) and will be used also by my wife for the storage of her hobby paper for Origami.

We have completed the renovation of our living and kitchen
 
Just an impression with the Vasa already present. Just waiting now for a final cabinet on which a place is reserved already for the Vasa (even in progress)
 

 
Further I have re-organised my wood. This is an old cabinet used for drawings (aged back to 1960) and will be used also by my wife for the storage of her hobby paper for Origami.

We have completed the renovation of our living and kitchen
 
Just an impression with the Vasa already present. Just waiting now for a final cabinet on which a place is reserved already for the Vasa (even in progress)
 

 
Further I have re-organised my wood. This is an old cabinet used for drawings (aged back to 1960) and will be used also by my wife for the storage of her hobby paper for Origami.

Mates,
Thanks for the likes. Always appreciated indeed,
 OC., and Don – much too kind; thank you so very much.
 EJ, thanks as well –PS: The base AND the Pegasus are getting some flack from the Admiral. She opines that the base looks like a kitchen cutting board, and the Pegasus are, “just ugly” Hmmm. It will resolve itself in due time (this particular issue will be –for her - a lost cause) She did say that she like the "boat" 
 
 Ferit Thanks as always. You are right I never imagined that this build would become as it looks today. I knew so little when I joined MSW. I had an inclination to challenge myself, but did not have a good knowledge base for achieving any detailed results.
Learned SO much here following other builders that the build details started falling into place as my learning and skills progressed; also so much good advice along the way from members posting – THANKS Mates.
=====================
Taking a break form finishing up the last of the foremast rigging, thought that I would attach the anchors.
Building the buoys. Used a soft basswood, as opposed to an already properly sized harder to shape dowel.
 
Oops was not gentle enough and it snapped. But almost done so it will work out. I will copy Frank’s (fmodajr) work from his Wasa log. Those buoys are perfect!! – Especially how he attached the ropes. Thanks Frank!! Last pic is his!
 
Regards,
 

 
 
 

Finished up the middle rail bits at the mainmast. The stern section is also done. - finally.
Here are a couple of mainmast shots. Now onto the foremast.
 
Regards,
 

Hi Mates,
 Andre: Thanks – much appreciated – it has been a challenge getting a Vasa sort of looking correct.
 
 Ferit: Well the time that it has taken to almost finish this build I would imagine that some children have become teenagers.
Some builders whom I happily follow have completed three amazing ships in the time it has taken me to do this one – that is still not finished. Thanks so much for following along since I joined as well as some excellent advice that you have offered.
 Zappto:  thanks for your very nice thoughts
 
 Denis: Thanks, Yes, I am very happy with how the base came-out. Also thanks for your continued support.
 
All of the outer lines and pin rails have been installed and looped with coils. Now focusing on the last bits of the weather deck rigging. The “inner” bits that attach to knighthead rails.
 
PS: The mainmast rail is MUCH to close to the mast. My mistake I did not consider the stern leaning angle of the main mast. Still badly placed. Grrr. Installed - way back -before I new very much. 
 
Well these last ropes are challenging indeed. These fiddly bits are very hard to reach and “set” without disturbing/stretching already pre- attached and glued lines. Not a complaint – but it’s slow going - as you all know rigging is.
Foremast ropes will be easier to get to. 
 
Thanks for the likes & just dropping by…..
 
A few more pics.
 
Regards,
 

Denis,
 
The wood is in fact Western red cedar -well done!!.
 
It looks much too reddish in the posted photo that was taken under 3k soft halogen-ceiling lights.
Here is a more representative shot. Still working on a way to attach the ship to the base. I do not want to drill side holes into the keel.
These four brass Pegasus I had “antiqued” looking. They will add a nice touch.
 
Made a nameplate. Was going to drill small holes at each corner and add brass nails, then I remembered my left over canon door lions. 
The nameplate (done at a local trophy shop) is not brass – they could not etch my chosen font and text in brass. So instead they laser printed the text on a “look like brass” plastic plate.
 

 

Hi Mates,
 Karl, Ferit, Dave, thanks so much for your so kind thoughts.
---------------------
She is indeed looking like a ship that is almost ready for it’s sinking, very close to closing shop on this one.
 
Yesterday I picked up the base from the wood shop. I’m very happy with the look that I had intended.
 Now need to figure out how to properly secure the keel. Then I will measure the height of the mainmast and have a Plexiglas case built.
 The case will also have eight buffered (rounded) edges adding to the cost, but I think that it will look more “polished” that way.
 The ship will live on that glass counter top cabinet that separates the dining area from the living room. Those photos will be removed and it will take its place near the wall.
 Need to still:
Finish poop deck area
Attach anchors and make the buoys
Paint- touch up various knightheads
Fix broken hull canon doors
Make the keel support structure
            Then open Champagne ha ha
 
Cheers,

 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi Mates,
Work in progress update. Have mostly attached all the mainmast area lines, some work still needs to be done along with adjustments here and there. I won't go into details, but my lack of pre-knowledge caused some issues - drilling pin holes above canon openings and behind kevels. Those spaces need to be pin and rope free (now I know).  I re-located and re-drilled some pin holes as best I could, but a few lines could not be moved. There are left-over empty pin holes scares but so be it (learned this for next time)
 
Here are a few updated pics of the mizzen area rigging- still a work area - most lines have not been tensioned or secured. 
 
Regards,

I have now also placed the other cannons on the decks. So, now all 16 are in place, including their ropes.
Previously, I had to sand the bottom of the wheels somewhat in order to fit the cannons through the holes in the planking. This happens when you first make the holes and only later the cannon carriages...
In the pictures, you can notice that the cannon barrels do not stick out much outside the holes. This is due to the relatively thick planking, which was caused by my restoration work, as I added more wood than there should be according to the plans... At the moment the cannon carriages are still movable on the deck. When I glue them in place, I will do so by pushing them more outside. Unglued, the tension from the ropes prevent this to be their 'natural' position. I did use diluted wood glue to fixate the small wood pieces to hold the rope loops.
 

Overview of the decks with the cannons placed:

After not doing much on the Wasa for a long time, I continued with the cannons.
Having read and looked carefully at the beautiful examples of other Wasa builders, I had a good example on how to attach the blocks and ropes to the cannons for placing them on deck. The 3mm blocks and the 3mm hooks were bought by me at a Czech website, as I had figured out that these parts should be that small indeed. The hooks were actually a bit too narrow with its hook opening, so I had to bent somewhat.
The hole in the hook was therefore very small and I could not insert the medium thickness rope through the hole. As an excape, I used thinner rope to attach the hook to, and then attach this rope to the medium thickness rope. The knot became somewhat large, but still ok. Afterwards I fixated the knots with water diluted wood glue. The ruler is in cm.

The blocks needed some extra drilling with 0.7mm drill to be able to insert the rope. First I prepared the double block to have an loop from rope. Next the single block to have the long rope to pass through the ropes and a ring on the other side, to connect it to the cannon.
 


Here are all 16 cannons, with the blocks and ropes attached. The coin is a 5 eurocent.
 

The next steps are the placing on the deck of the Wasa. Of course, the first one is the one with which to figure out how to do so.
I used 1mm thickness wood pieces as sticks to holds the rope loop in place on top of the rings.


 
 

So, 15 more to go...