kruginmi

With my new direction, I have continued to Krugify (veer from the plans) on the look of the ship. Decided to veneer the outer bulwarks and since I always like the look of scuppers, added 5 of them each side for a pop of contrast and interest. I have also decided to replace (once again) the inner bulwark supports with cherry, replacing the basswood for a deeper color contrast. This is in progress. You can see one in the pic second from aft. Once I put the finish on it will pop a lot more. I also wrapped this around the stern. There is a plastic decoration that goes in this location, might go with something different. I will probably switch back the the Jylland to complete it's main deck next. Hopefully won't take too too long. Mark

Thanks Mark, that was the direction I was headed (deck wise at least). With the hunk of plastic on the side, pretty much forced to do some painting. My initial thought is the external hull will be painted. Water line and below - dark green. Plastic piece strip - dark green. In between - white. My unknown is the bulwark walnut railing / cherry 'wales'. Like to keep them natural but think the cherry will have to be painted white. Color is not my natural skill so suggestions welcomed. I do not feel restricted to the box art of the kit. From my Army background: If it moves - salute it, if it doesn't - paint it white. Mark Update: Wife came by (she originally picked this kit) and asked for the plastic piece to be painted and leave it at that.

Ever forward. I met my goals for this week by getting the basic hull complete. Still some fine tuning. The forward grating plastic piece did not fit into the space without modification. Thought it was just easier to make the whole thing out of wood. Finished up the laminated cherry 'wales' and the walnut railing. All three deck house entry ways were also finished off as well as the remaining trim. Still need the skylights (3 total), which are half plastic. Next step is figuring out how the forward bowsprit intersects with the stem head and butt joins to the winch. I need to construct the winch and see how this fits together. Then the forward and stern raised railing can be affixed. Mark

Snapshot of progress. Not a play by play of everything I have done. Happy to answer any/all questions if any. As I get into the finer details I am not a stickler for the plans in a kit like this, just looking to enjoy myself. For example, the bulwark rail is shown to be a lighter wood (like the hull). Decided I wanted a darker (natural) look so brought in some 1/16" walnut for the job. I have only completed the back half of the rail to allow me to plank the upper stern deck. I like the result. For the trim piece below the side decoration I substituted in some cherry I had on hand. To allow it to fit into the bow area (bending wise) I used 1/32" strips and laminated 2 together. Still need some sanding but all good. On a side note, the deck houses in the kit had the location lines for the trim marked on them. I was concerned some would be visible in the final product so actually build the main boxes for each inside out. I like having a clean palette. I actually liked the idea of putting the access door in the house to starboard, causing the rearmost cabin door to move port. When this is shown next to other Regina's (haha) easy to pick mine out. Next up is finishing the rail and replacing the plastic belay pin rail at the bow. My resultant hull differs from the plastic outline enough that it justifies just making a new one. Mark

One feature that pops out is the mid-ship walkway so decided to knock the base structure out. Still need the guard rails but that can come later. Affixed the plastic c-channel on top of the bulwarks to finish the look. This walkway is easily removed. This gives the ship an overall look of: Decided to look closer at the cannon: The bottom row left three are from the kit. That flared out muzzle sure make them look older than the mid to late 1800's. All supplied cannon are the same type. For the main gun deck you get the top row guns which affix to the hull. For comparison I grabbed in my stash a set of 18 pounders which I showed as the three shiny right hand ones. My basic research shows the ship used (1864) 8-18 pounder, 4-12 pounder and 32-30 pounder guns. The top deck has 16 gun ports with 12 guns identified so that is another question on what goes where. I am toying with the idea to use some of my 18 pounders (obviously only on the top deck). Have to ponder that one. The guns on display at the museum definitely look more like the 18 pounder version than that supplied by Billings. To ramble some more I am seriously considering having this ship put back into my list of ships to do once this is complete. I have the next three projects waiting but think I could take what I have learned, research some more and produce a set of plans (and a list of assumptions) that would produce a better ship. I would definitely need to find that book referenced at the start of this project. The old girl is growing on me and I would like to do her justice. Mark Up next is to finish the planking on the starboard side and fabricate the missing deck furniture. Masts/Spars are quickly coming up.

Ever forward. Updated the bow based on new information. The highlighted 'brace' I hereby declare as the Steggen Brace. I had no idea it existed until his pic. As it be said, let it be done. Looks much better overall with the added center platform. Finally decked the stern area. That took a minute. Obviously deck furniture to be added. Figured out my missing deck height on the main deck. Looked at the cannon and for this kit they are very bare bones - only the carriage and gun which they want glued to the deck. Well.....I can fancy them up and add wheels which will give me the necessary height addition. Now to sort out the main deck furniture so I can start laying out the deck and where planking is required. Mark

First off - Peter: Thanks for the kind words, just (trying) to have some fun. Now to define why all the questions / rabbit holes. This ship has gone through (it seems) so many big changes externally. Add a deck, stretch the deck, change the deck furniture (maybe). I had no idea when I started what a can of worms that would be opened. Every time I look at a specific topic and compare the plans I have, the updated plans from Billings, pictures I can get from the web, plans from the archives and finally the input from this great group I have quite a few different answers. Since I didn't know this from the beginning I have baked in some specifics variables from my re-draw of the hull plans. Again, the bulkhead pieces were seemingly hacked out of the wood with a dull butter knife and the plans as shown did not have a right angle and could not be used fix the pieces (this kit from the 70's, not the replacement one available now). I laughed this evening because I finally gave a close look at the deck fittings. Let's start from the stern looking at the original plans: Pictures clearly show the ship's wheel is sitting on a grating (makes sense). No such thing as defined on this model. Looking at images, the next item up should be a skylight then a grating. These are switched (or are they as defined originally?) Under the ships boats there should be a skylight as exists today. Would the ships boats still fit here? Moving forward: The funnel has a secondary tube. Shown on the plans aft of the funnel. Pics of the current ship show it forward. The stairs down to the gun deck seemingly should be forward of the grate. Even the funnel in the forward grate can be seen pointing forward and aft. Is this all time period dependent? Was Billings this sloppy or did they design off one set of procured source material. I have looked at the 'new' 'improved' deck plans of their updated Jylland kit (real expensive) and they are not much different. I think the answer is to rename the ship the Krylland (get it - Krug and Jylland - I crack myself up) and get'r done (joke). This ultimately is for my Uncle so I will proceed making choices for aesthetics / function / and finally ~accuracy. As always, I welcome any and all input just know I will probably make choices that will cause your eyelid to twitch a little. This ship deserves a well made set of plans (or maybe 2 or 3 based on date). A great ship. Thanks again to all, I will endeavor to persevere Mark

That helps a ton. Marching to completion. One additional question (for now haha): Is there any rake to the masts? They 'look' at ninety degrees to water line (and at this scale that may be good enough). Mark

Steggen is always the voice of reason in crazy times / posts. 2 additional details: 1. for the masting white or off-yellow. 1a. Topmast black between mast top and cheeks? 2. What about the grates / other - I 'assume' white also. Mark

Accepting input (did I do this already?) of color choices. Bottom of hull will be patina-ized copper (greenish) that is set. Question is upper hull and masting. As seen today (white hull, light yellow masting with some black upper works) or Fighting black hull, white stripe across gunports, black gunports, green inner bulworks Or other. Give me your thoughts. Mark

Okay, I lied. Decided to add the planks to see how they will look and if the self adhesive is still viable. I was half way through and not liking the way the planks were not laying down (coming loose). Decided I had Titebond at hand so started to add my own adhesive. Seemed to work very well. Each plank is laid individually. You do not cut out a section and apply as one unit. Now just need to carry on down the hull and bring to the same state of readiness for sanding sealer (for when it gets warm - feels like 8 degrees Fahrenheit here with snow falling currently. Mark

The final Krug representation of the forward Bow area deck. I put three representative planks of the targeted deck which will cover the recessed area (surrounded by 1/32" wood). I like the look so will probably fill this in hopefully tomorrow.

A little more deconstruction for the good of the build. I pulled off the rest of the bow deck section and re-did the slope to bring it in line with a better representation of the ship. I also took this opportunity to add a floor to areas that could be seen. The real ship is very different (kit is way over complicated) but I didn't want to rip everything out. I also designed the grating section. The key here was to go off the actual deck piece and not the plans per se. The result seemed to fit the bill. To complicate matters there are two false decks here. One tucks atop the frames but between the sides (1/32" thick). This is seen below The second sits on top of all so rises above the bulwark cap rail seen amidships (1/16" thick). The side planking will also cover this. On top of this will be the thin deck shown previously. On the outside edge will be a 1/32" trim piece that will slightly hang over the edge. This has not been glued and/or sanded to exact size yet. You can also see the plastic 'C' channel on top of the bulwarks, not glued yet used for sizing. The outside holes are for the grating sections. They will end up flush with the deck. Given the gratings depth I needed to cut out both false decks for insertion. The center section stays open. Next step is to get the gratings sorted and affixed. Then on to finishing up the stern deck. Stay Building My Friends, Mark

This was a huge issue for me which ended up being a trifle. The provided rear bulwark decoration (yes, plastic) did not conform to the deck angle. I spent a lot of time (too much) pondering how to compensate. Finally (maybe after the whiskey plank haha) I tore off the false deck and modified the underlying frames to set it right. We are talking less than 20 minutes to a solution. It was a very minimal correction but reset my mood for this project. Onto the decking. The provided plank separators were at a different depth size than the planks themselves but with some careful prep in gluing went down pretty straight forward. Still need to do the stern deck but need to define the caprail / waterway first. Plenty of wood left to accomplish this so that is nice. Caprail is next (along with the remaining flooring). I do need to sanding seal the hull so that will wait for warmer weather. Lots of things to do in the meantime. Mark

Things have been popping behind the scenes for both this and other projects I have been pursuing. Letting people know I am still alive and kicking and hope to put this ship in the done column sometime this year. This is the state of the ship as she now sits Planking finished up pretty straight forward. Given it is a single plank hull I was a bit more careful in how I progressed. Still not sure of her final color scheme (paint or other) so anything could show. And finally the long awaited whiskey plank: Yes, I still have some sanding to smooth out a few things but I consider that a win. Cheers, Mark

My decking conundrum. I was gifted a deck sheet (with adhesive on back) which actually is in the right proportions. The problem is the deck is less than veneer width in depth. I had allocated a 1/32" deck depth when building. If I use this I need to add a second false deck over the first to allow for that depth. Very doable but the joints will need to be very smooth with this stuff. In the meantime also going to 'improve' the aesthetics of the raised bow area. The kit supplied ink stamped gratings are less than desirable. Picked up some basic gratings of the right size which will be put into this area. I have removed part of the false deck for this and will custom fit/size the gratings to the model shape. A lot of this model is a compromise between accuracy, looks, and the what I have to work with. This is also contingent on the deck decision described above. The 1/32" can really be detected here as it defines how the bulwark caprail merges into this area. Mark Mark

Keith - words never so true. Well, time has flown and things done (health and other LOL). Jylland is a priority - especially with the VIC rigging done and delivered. Finally put to bed the tale of the stern windows. No arguments now, they are fitted. Much better than the provided decals. Still a lot of refinement to do but they are in place. As also can be seen the planking of the hull (above the waterline) is in full swing. I wanted a better looking hull (with character) after it is sealed and painted. I am using maple veneer. The starboard side is still in progress but am hopefull by this weekend. My lesson learned (LOL). As you get older your nerve endings seem to become less ..... active. Well, I managed to perforate myself on one of my fingers - which was used to hold the hull when inverted. Finally figured this out when I set the hull back on the stand saw the blood bath. Blood is not the easiest to get out of wood - believe me. However, a decking will go on top so all is good. Bandaids have become an important part of my kit. I can always prove this model is mine with the affixed DNA. Mark

This is the day I bid her adieu. I found a friend that was willing to host the ship. I really don't have room so worked out for the best for both of us. It was a 40 min drive to his place. Ready for transport I In the back of my CRV I found Nestling in my winter coat was pretty solid. I was going to avoid the 90 MPH curves and turns haha. In it's new home. I told him I never wanted to see it again and any tales of woe have no need to be sent my way LOL. It will never look this good again and that is how I wish to remember her. As for a case or improved stand - that is for him to worry about. Cheers, Mark

Well, let's jump forward a few months (haha). Boy how time flies. Lots of things going on so for 2024 I just knuckled down and worked on the Vic when possible. Following Nepean's guidance I added a TON of added blocks and lines. I also used the provided sails and was quite happy with the result I achieved with a little paint and my airbrush. She is now done and in the rear view mirror. I had a lot of fun working through the rigging. I did get a little creative in some of the tie down points but balanced practicality, visual appeal and accurateness. I used a backdrop to emphasize the lines but found out even that had issues. Use a black one and remove all the standing rigging, use a tan one and remove the standing. This did work out very well when actually rigging to keep your eyes from going bat crazy. Mark

This model has been perfect for working on my rigging capabilities. I have spent a bit of time off line working on learning / remembering / identifying what is the Mark Krug way of doing things. Also the ship needed a lot of clean up and various bits and bobs put to right. My midterm (freshman year) was to get those main stays configured and put into place. All this was scratch - the Heller kit does not include any heart blocks. I also reconfigured the marine walk a bit for the preventer stay. Things seem to be coalescing well. I rigged up everything off ship - just required the last seizing once installed. Both main stays installed. I am happy with the length to blocks and the look. Unfortunately the loop seized to was a tad bit too low and got mostly lost in the grating. Everything checks out. I will be adding the stay to stay weave. Now onto the fore stays. These also will have open and closed hearts added. Mark

Well, the Vic is a large and complicated model (haha). My just jump to the rigging has been a major case of SQUIRREL!! Fix this, no do this, but first do that. Lots of hours with little to show for it So....opted to do something. The man item dragging down the looks were all the broken hammock irons. I methodically went through, dug out the remains of all the broken ones (drill bits work great for this) and replaced with fresh new ones. One part of me says don't do it, you will break them off yourself but I threw caution to the wind. The hammock pieces are inserted but not yet glued into place. Obviously not including the nets yet. I tried out the netting jib provided and the end result is really not bad. If you do not have any 3rd party netting at scale this is entirely usable. I am thinking of not wrapping this from one side to the other, but to cut a panel for front and back (leaving the bottom empty). I will try some prototypes and see how it goes. With all three (irons, netting and hammocks) they should be a little more resistant to snapping off at the first sideways glance. Some paint touch ups is next. The main deck opening needs to be painted black to provide some visual breakup. Also other places. My aim is to balance time consuming work with the clean up (show progress) work to keep me motivated. Stay Building My Friends, Mark

A quick discussion of my aims and direction: The following are my goals for this build: Get better in MODELING rigging o Sometimes not the same as actual ship rigging Learn the nomenclature better Don’t sweat the details (vague – I know) o Not an exact replication of the Victory, but close as practical (in Krug terms) o Don’t turn the Heller model into a scratch build – stay out of the box for most. Have some fun o This will not be a multi-year project To repeat the first post, this kit was started (very well I might add) by someone who has since passed. I am using this as a learning tool and to honor that person. As such, there will not be a gut job. The deck is not painted – so be it. The fore and main lower shrouds are affixed so the rest will be installed in the same manner (using the Heller tool and the ratlines glued in place). As a person born in the 60’s I remember the warped pieces of plastic that passed off as kits back then and loved building them. I now have a few wooden ships under my belt (the HMS Druid sits just across the room) and enjoy the process of building and stretching skills. I am lucky to have 1.5 more kits of this for experimentation, repair and adding on where needed. The excel spreadsheet attached was my go through of the Heller plans to render into English the names of all the lines and deck tie down locations (eg A7 is the Flying Jib Staysail Downhaul). Once you have the name and know the function, tracing the line across multiple diagrams is greatly simplified. I have Identified 9 lines not in the plans (boomkin stays, leech lines, etc) that I will add as well as 12 lines that I believe are duplicative or unkown (see end of first tab). I will NOT declare it without error. As I build I will methodically go through what is written and verify so it will get better. If it helps you, great, but use your own knowledge to see if it is helpful to you. There is a cross reference to the Anatomy of the Ship Line # as well as Rigging Period Ship model page numbers. The references I am using (items sitting on the build table) are: Heller 1:100 Plastic Kit HMS Victory Instructions Krug’s Rigging ID Guide to Heller 1:100 Kit Line and deck tie down translation to English – Excel Sheets (Attached below) Full size Plans Used in Longridge’s Book Percival Marshall & CO Ltd HMS Victory: Her Construction, Career and Restoration Alan McGowan The Anatomy of Nelson’s Ships C Nepean Longridge Others on the bookshelf: Rigging Period Ship Models Lennarth Petersson Anatomy of the Ship: The 100-Gun Ship Victory John McKay I was VERY fortunate to get the full size plans from my Uncle. So much more readable and usable then the fold outs. Beautiful detail. I look forward to advancing this build forward. Lots of things still to do on the main deck but that will wait. My focus now is to get the standing rigging up and in place to kick this off. Mark Krug Victory Rigging Lines.xlsx

Good Day William. Mind if I pull up a seat and attend the show? You are going in really deep and I respect that. Great progress!

Well, the process worked out and it was pretty easy also. First shot shows the mouse and at the desired distance laid in an eyelet in the thread. I then looped around the mainmast head and fed the lower end of the stay through the eyelet and fed it up until it was stopped by the mouse. It had the look and seemed right at home. Second line was a repeat of the first. I offset the eyelet a little farther in to provide some separation. No glue required here, that join will not loosen up under just minimal tension. Finally the money shot of the two stays. Next up is the heart block at the lower end of the stays. I am also in the process of modifying the walk to allow the two lines for the preventer stay to pass through better. I am actually going to interweave the two stays since I believe that look is also pretty iconic when you view pics of the Victory. So many things I want to do, just need to focus on one at a time (maybe two haha - that foremast breast backstay add is pretty easy and straightforward). Stay building my friends, Mark

As is usual, so many things to do and without focus hours will be spent without any discernible progress. Also, I usually live in the 1:48 world so new techniques (and limitations) will be found and explored. I opted as a first visible task to replace the foremast stays. The kit only supplies regular blocks (3 sizes). I think the open and closed hearts pretty iconic so decided to do something about that. Secondly, I wanted to use the worm topside to secure the stay to see if I could do it. I am assuming a lot of these techniques have already been stated and shown but I invite you in to my attempts. This pic shows my hand created hearts (sans the two at top which I had in my spared box). Slightly different sizes for the primary and secondary stays. For the worm itself I am using Elmer's glue all (on a scrap piece of line) to see if it looks alright. The line itself (3 cords) could be separated and the cord passed through itself. This would produce an eyelet that will be very stable and perfectly sized for the cord used. Although I did not spline the lines, all will be brushed with a 50/50 glue water mixture to allow it to set. Once I combine the worm and eyelet the result looks pretty good and effective to me. The line passing through the eyelet is not fixed and can be pulled either direction very easily. Of course the worm will be painted black and with the glue wash all lines will be laying flat and invisible. Hopefully should have the foremast stays affixed and looking good in a day or two. Mark