kruginmi

As I move into retirement (and the peasants rejoiced) I had wanted to spend some time focusing on rigging. Well, I was given this Heller Victory with the hull pretty much done. The backstory was the gentleman had passed away and this was picked up in an estate sale for next to nothing. His work was superior and once I saw the hull I decided this was a good subject for my goal. There was the inevitable broken components but that was largely confined to the royal masts and (of course) the jibboom. The accompanying box of parts was incomplete but I have another 1.5 of these in the stash (bit of a story there). I would have done some things differently (like the deck isn't painted) but for what I was going to use if for and for actual looks that was fine. I have a friend that already has asked to have it upon completion for his library at home, which is perfect. I have dissected the plans and have defined each and every line so am over that hump. I did notice some differences to actual practice. I have a set of the plans that Longridge uses in his book (thank you Uncle Leo) and have defaulted to that presentation where practical. For example the foremast stays did not include the Breast Backstay so I am adding that. Not going crazy or over the top but where it makes sense will make those changes (for example, will use the supplied plastic blocks). I looked through my stash of 'rigging' line and have chosen to use 6 types. The Heller supplied line is white and didn't want to dye. So this morning after getting the remnants of the broken pieces removed and things prepped, went ahead and primed the necessary replacements. I am using Vallejo acrylics. It will be interesting to see how close I can get to the existing yellow shade. I should be working on this at least 2 days a week at a minimum. My first task is to scratch some open and closed hearts for the fore and main mast stays. These seem pretty iconic and need to be there but aren't included in the kit. Stay Building My Friends, Mark

Alright after a bit of a hiatus I am back. More importantly, as of last Monday I am now retired (and the peasants rejoiced). Bit of a crazy few months but that is all behind me. I have time, I have the motivation and I still have the ship. The Jylland has been dusted off, some minor repairs to the hull planking (gaps) fixed up. Lots of things on my daily list but progress will be made. Looking at getting the stern set to rights window wise then right into the upper faux planking. - Mark Stay building my Friends

Yep, put aside the decal and did some relative measuring off of the real ship pics. Looks a whole lot better. Still going to let it sit a bit. Mark

Wefalck - really fighting the hand dealt me here. The kit stern is very different from the one you highlight. This is my first cut and then ponder on kit/reality to make the best adjustments I can. I do appreciate the input. The lower windows are locked in (bottom wise) to the line of the gunports so that is one fixed point - but I can force the swoop up a bit to allow more room for the JYLLAND name as well a provide a better profile. The size of the decoration roundly defines the second (swoop of lower garland). Will probably be replacing the decoration so I can 'adjust' there a bit. Definitely thinking higher and smaller but within constraint. The real ship pics reflect an in between view also. Mark

Dragged the ship upstairs, at least do something. Need to work out the positioning of the 4 stern windows. I started by creating a smooth line from the lower gunports, which provides the top and bottom line of the lower windows. For a reference point I used the decal. I taped where I thought it should be and poked holes through the window corners into the wood. My intention is to carve into the wood and inset the frames (not use the decals). Didn't look half bad (especially at the 3 foot mark haha) but did some tweeking. Arrived at what I thought was a good position. Still need to make the upper windows less wide but will think on that. Lower ones same size as gun ports. Decal already started falling apart, but that is a battle for another day on how to replace. Mark

A bit of clarification (and last): Contractor working upstairs slit water softener drain line. So....40-50 gallons per minutes pumped at 4:30 AM. I found out at 6:30 AM. Home still filled with fans / dehumidifiers / other. Another day or so and I can start the rebuild process. Veterans Remembrance Day in the US today. My hats off to all who have served (US or any country) and especially thoughts to those who gave their lives. Mark (former 1LT, US Army)

Do you ever have that recurring nightmare that a water line will burst directly over your workshop? Good one. Well, it happened. Right now in the middle of cleaning it up. Could have been worse. The ships were saved, some of my other endeavors - not so much. Food pantry significantly hit as well. Needed to clean that place up anyway..... 🙂

Okay - you had me with the water-colours for the bow and stern LOL. The decals supplied being over 50 years old leaves little doubt to their usefulness. I will take a look hopefully this weekend. Keith- I do not believe rubbing strakes per se. My best guess at this point (looking at everything else) is that this may have been an artifact of it being dry docked and for the initial shoring (before it was finalized). Just my gut. Mark

Finally added the mysterious vertical pieces of lumber (7 per side) located between main gun ports. The adjustment of the chain plates sure came in handy. I did some adjusting on positioning - focusing on the location between gun ports. These ports do not 'exactly' correspond with what is seen on the ship so keep that in mind. Visually they look correct (the 3 foot test). The hull has had some manipulations into its current form. Almost set to begin the 2nd layer planking. Mark

Wow, Wefalck, that is quite a list. Definitely shows some research and comprehensive look at the subject. My ship is a 3-fer: Stand 3 feet away and squint and you should be able to say what it is (haha). Being a (raw) kit from the early 70's (I believe) there was a whole host of issues to tackle. Being made for my Uncle who bought it originally, I am straddling a wide gap. Started with insufficient information, with drawings that were not to scale and differed from the images I found on the net I am trying to make a presentable model without binning the whole thing. Appreciate the comment - that is for sure. Any help or guidance on the direction I am taking is always looked for. Mark

There must be a hotline available to call for help in such times (haha) Spent this evening and......raised the chain plates up a 1/16". All is right in the world again. Made a world of difference in this 1/100 scale model. One of the deciding points was that since it will be veneer planked, I could easily wood fill any scars and sand smooth. Okay note to self: don't do that again. Stay Building My Friends, Mark

Even as I sit here, my eye is twitching and I just have to keep staring at the issue. Must not grab knife......

Got the entry port cut out and the platform inserted. Was moving on to the external vertical posts between some main gunports. When comparing to the actual pics I noticed something..... I had put on the chain plates even with the deck beams (in this case the false deck). Never thought a second about it. But....as I looked at the ship pics the positioning was different as defined between the upper and lower ports. Moving the chain plates up a 1/16" (equal with the decking) made things a whole lot more consistent. Bummer. The CPs are totally locked in, glued and looking perfect. Given the rest of the kit is a 'representation' with several issues all around I am thinking of leaving things as is. My Uncle isn't getting any younger. BTW: There will a leading trim piece added to each long edge of the chain plates once the actual chains are added (to capture them). So much more tidy than trying to drill holes and insert them. Any thoughts? Mark

Thanks Keith, appreciate it. Using a dowel, I created a pseudo mast to replicate the masthead height for all three masts. This allows me to verify the width of the chain plates as well as the location of the shrouds themselves. Quick easy tool that has loads of benefits. You can also see I have created (and attached) all of the 6 chainplates. Ended up using 1/16" Basswood keyed into the hull. Pretty darn strong this way - just hope I do not snap any of these off between now and the end of the build. Additionally allows pretty precise placement (over and over again until glued). I still have the platform for the port of entry to do, then on to the vertical wood beams between gun ports. Mark

After slicing the tip of my thumb off (not even hobby related) back to getting the chain plates on so I can start the second planking. For strength I like to key them in. A little more work but I think worth it. First step was to sand the facing edge flush against the hull side. Important step is to get all the bevels correct so chain plate parallel to waterline and not perpendicular to hull. I can still work the mating surface for an even better fit but keep remembering there is still a veneer planking which will cover the entire joint. Mark

Next step was to mark the copper line. Put the ship back into the building slip and (gently) ran a fixed pencil line at the appropriate level. The copper section will be replicated using just paint. The upper section will be planked with veneer. I then marked ribs at 5 foot scale intervals. This will allow me to align the plank ends up. Probably going with 15 foot scale plank lengths. To finish everything off I marked off the chain plates. These will be built next and keyed into the hull for strength. One of the bonuses of double planking is that the planking can effectively cover up any joins. The hawse hole rings are currently press fit and can be removed easily. Just having fun. Mark

Catheads and braces, along with hawse holes in place. Now to define the dividing line to the copper plates. Additionally will pencil in faux bulkheads every 5 feet (every 5/8 inches) from this line to top of bulwark. This will allow me to stagger the joints of the 2nd planking. Still need to figure out the width of the planks themselves. Looks like 4 rows per gunport is an estimate. Question is, do I do 2 rows to make it look better at scale. Mark p.s. Need to identify the locations of the vertical posts. Might be better to add prior to 2nd layer planking.

WIth Spring comes many requirements on your time. I worked out the catheads laminating 10 pieces of wood. 7/32 of an inch. Still need to create the sheaves (will use plastic rod). I have one other one as a prototype to determine the angle and length to the hull. This will go through the outer bulwark and secure to the inner for strength.

I should mention I do plastic vacuform planes on the side. I have an airbrush and primarily use acrylics for this. Just scratching my head for what is best for wood as well as handling after the paint is complete. Thinking a non-acrylic primer with the patina added with acrylics. This would be followed by a non-acrylic varnish. One concern is that the veneer needs to be glued over the primer. I would prefer not using super glue. Mark

Question: New area for me - looking to paint below the waterline and veneer plank above. What are the recommendations for sealer and/or primer? Lots of choices out there. Anyone give me lessons learned or solid guidance? Enough with the full length hull shots already! Well, how about one more. Filled and sanded the port side (for clarity, the pic shows it not sanded LOL). While I had the filler out I looked at the bottom of the keel as well as stem. I had laminated basswood over the original and that was exactly how it looked, so masked off and wood filled that area also. Prime goal was to clean up the head on shot. Now need to get the rudder hole drilled out and define the catheads. Mark

Wax on - Wax off..... Got the Starboard side slathered up with wood filler (not Elmers Glue-All) and then after a day or two, sanded most of it off. Hull feels silky smooth. Maybe a couple of touch up points but will probably seal and prime first for better visibility. That filler sure is a fine talcum powderish dust when sanding. Good ventilation is a must. I stood in the middle of my front yard with a good breeze going. Stern side up next then position the catheads / brace finally the fore and aft deck house bulkheads. Mark

Well, got those stern blocks (2 each side) affixed and shaped. A large file for the bulk, then down to sandpaper for tuning. Probably still some more subtle shaping left to do. With that all the stealers / shaped fillers / blocks are all attached. Now for sanding and more sanding prior to applying a sealer than primer. Above the waterline will be veneer planked. Funny story: looking at the pic of the port side, rear gun port. Yah, never finished that. Cutting it out won't be that bad, it is just adding the backing plate would have been so much easier reaching in the hull. I have to laugh. Mark

Anders: In my book search I have found (and am able to procure) this book: Not the cheapest but I will do it if it is worthwhile. Are you familiar with it? It is not by the author you had given but still not finding a copy that I have the ability to get. Mark

I hit a bit of a milestone today. Still have a couple of gaps to fill and the stern blocks to shape and affix, but the hull has been largely closed up. Below the waterline will be a smooth surface, above will be a 2nd planking with veneer. Lots of sanding but it is good to have a rock solid hull in your grasp.

Alright, back in operation. Finished up all the bulwarks. This took some time but happy with the result. Again, curved exterior to match the tumblehome but interior perpendicular to deck. 5/32" exposure at top, variable (5/32" to 9/32") at base. Access port towards midships not cut out at this time for strength of total bulwark as I plank the bottom and have the ship inverted occasionally. The caprail is a plastic u-channel piece that will be glued on later. Finally getting back to the business at hand - closing up the hull. Temperatures are sure warming up out there but still pressing on to start sanding / filling / sanding the hull. Mark