kruginmi

Today was the internal hawse hole linings.  Given the size of the holes and proximity to the edge of the pieces, opted for boxwood for this detail work.  First used some basswood to size things out though.  This lining will project out from the other wall planking by 1/32 (1/2 the width of the 1/16 wall planking).
 
The initial prototype built on the waterway just didn't look right and it was obvious this thick stuff needed to go down to the deck.  So, after measuring out the required distance I chiseled out the waterway.
 

 
Once I had the hawse hole lining roughed out I put it in place and did a light drill from the outside to place the location of the two hawse holes.  Once this was done the piece was removed and (as shown in the next pic) I used a smaller drill to locate these locations to the other (finished) side.  I could then drill the full size hole from both sides to avoid tear out and get a very neat and accurate hole.  I then used a file to put in a shallow groove  providing a smooth groove leading to the deck.  Once put in place the drill showed a clean smooth hole through the whole hull
 

 
I sized to fit under the first opening then rounded the edges exposed to the wall planking.  This will make the planking neat and tidy.
 

 
Now I can move on to the final bow planking.
 
-mark

Still plugging away and actually have a lot of fun.  I am now putting stuff on that will actually be easily seen in the finished product.  The big additions lately are the cap rails over the mid-deck section.  I used boxwood for these because of its hardness, given the potential for banging around during the construction to come.  Pretty much everything else is basswood.
 

 
This morning I got the chesstrees re-attached and the pass through hull sheaves on one side of the ship.  Still many details to work (eg I am adding a manger, window sills) on the gun deck - my goal is to finish this section up early next week.
 

 
Lots of sanding, sanding, sanding.  I have partially gel coated completed sections of the hull to highlight the plank seams, this will be 100% as the assemblies are finalized.
 
-mark

I reached a milestone today. I completed the installation and rigging of all of the starboard cannons. Afterward, I touched up the deck a bit with the matte clear coat since both the CA and Epoxy are shiny. Hopefully the Port side will go a bit faster now that I do not have new ground to cover. I started rigging the canon on March 6th. So 20 days for 10 cannon. Hmmm... 2 days per cannon. It doesn't seem like it took that long but much of the time was spent working out exactly how I was going to rig them and batching the rigging. 
 
We shall see how the next 10 go.
 
Anyway, much work still ahead.
 
Bill

With some time back on the ship I decided to tackle the manger.  This was not on the plans but something I have thought about adding for a awhile (plan bashing?).  This area is obscured but still can be seen if you are triple jointed (hah, hah).
 
 
 
I designed this on the fly and probably ended up with about two and a half hours total.  I had several starts and stops but relaxed and finally evolved to a solution that I liked. 
 
This is the view from the middle gun deck and what will be visible from the finished viewpoint.
 

 
For background, these temporary walls contain the slime and mud brought up on the anchor cables.  Given the location and look it was a natural place for any animals (eg pigs, cattle) brought on board to be penned up - thus the name manger.
 
-mark
 
 
 
 

Thanks for looking.
 
Everyday I have tried to get something done in the workshop.  Today was two items:  one, the boxes for the steerage cables on their way up to the quarterdeck and two, finishing the bow wall planking.
 
For the cable boxes, I didn't want to use just a flat glue joint so I extended one side down into the floor planking:
 

 
The height of these boxes is equal to the size of the other coamings on the deck.  Pretty straight forward but really cleans up the look.
 
The second item was another major milestone - completion of the bow wall planking (and thus - all of the gundeck planking).
 

 
Next up is more sanding, the stern window frames, the hinges for the stern lockers and then the bulkhead partitions.
-mark

With some time back on the ship I decided to tackle the manger.  This was not on the plans but something I have thought about adding for a awhile (plan bashing?).  This area is obscured but still can be seen if you are triple jointed (hah, hah).
 
 
 
I designed this on the fly and probably ended up with about two and a half hours total.  I had several starts and stops but relaxed and finally evolved to a solution that I liked. 
 
This is the view from the middle gun deck and what will be visible from the finished viewpoint.
 

 
For background, these temporary walls contain the slime and mud brought up on the anchor cables.  Given the location and look it was a natural place for any animals (eg pigs, cattle) brought on board to be penned up - thus the name manger.
 
-mark
 
 
 
 

Still plugging away and actually have a lot of fun.  I am now putting stuff on that will actually be easily seen in the finished product.  The big additions lately are the cap rails over the mid-deck section.  I used boxwood for these because of its hardness, given the potential for banging around during the construction to come.  Pretty much everything else is basswood.
 

 
This morning I got the chesstrees re-attached and the pass through hull sheaves on one side of the ship.  Still many details to work (eg I am adding a manger, window sills) on the gun deck - my goal is to finish this section up early next week.
 

 
Lots of sanding, sanding, sanding.  I have partially gel coated completed sections of the hull to highlight the plank seams, this will be 100% as the assemblies are finalized.
 
-mark

With some time back on the ship I decided to tackle the manger.  This was not on the plans but something I have thought about adding for a awhile (plan bashing?).  This area is obscured but still can be seen if you are triple jointed (hah, hah).
 
 
 
I designed this on the fly and probably ended up with about two and a half hours total.  I had several starts and stops but relaxed and finally evolved to a solution that I liked. 
 
This is the view from the middle gun deck and what will be visible from the finished viewpoint.
 

 
For background, these temporary walls contain the slime and mud brought up on the anchor cables.  Given the location and look it was a natural place for any animals (eg pigs, cattle) brought on board to be penned up - thus the name manger.
 
-mark
 
 
 
 

So now it’s time for the hawse holes and hawse pipes. 
 
One of the old pictures is looking straight down the hawse holes and it is taken from the top of the sampson post.  I placed a yolk at the sampson post location and used it to guide the drill.  I enlarged the holes to accept a brass tube 9” scale diameter.  After flaring the outside, the tube was cut to length and an oval washer soldered to the inside.  The last two photos show the bow sprit temporarily in place.  I have to admit there was a problem the old picture was of the Lettie after the fore deck was raised.  But my model has the fore deck lowered.  So I drilled the hole in the wrong place and had to raise it to put it into the correct location.  All good now. 
 
Next the chain plates.
 
Bob
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The last couple of days have been spent primarily on trying to come up with a satisfactory method for rigging the cannon. I believe I now have my method down. First I take the rigged block sets. For the outermost sets (these go to the stern of the carriage, I use a ring on one and and a hook on the other. Seizing the hardware to the lines adds too much bulk to the fittings. The blocks are already seized to the stropping threads. Seizing the rings and or hooks, make them large. I decided to try the same technique I used in making the hangers for the spar foot ropes. I tie the strops around a nail and apply CA. Then I cut off the extraneous thread leaving a small ring. This is what I put the brass hardware in (either the ring or the hook). For the innermost block sets, I use this technique on the bulkhead rings. For the cannon carriage, I thread the strops directly through the holes in the carriage and CA the knots there.
 
I use epoxy to glue the cannon to the deck, then apply a thinned down version of the white glue to stiffen the ropes to allow me to loop them on the deck. I use a small nail set to wrap these around since it is tapered so once the rope is wrapped, I can push it off with tweezers and position it on the deck. Then I add a small amount of CA to hold the loops in place on the deck.
 
I also tried my hand at carving with the rotary tool based upon Bill Short's carving techniques. I took some fairly fine grained wood that I had and cut it down to about 5 x 5 x 5mm. I glued these to a small piece of wood to stabilize them. I used the .5mm ball to carve a semblance of the cat face. Since the wood was not really suitable it was creating a lot of fuzz so I added a drop of CA to the face of it and let it dry. This hardened up the wood sufficiently to complete the carving.
 
Once carved, I used a #11 Xacto blade to slice the face off, trim it to the 4x4mm size and glued this to the end of the cathead on the ship. I painted it gold. I tried adding the details of the back in black and white (per the Constitution photos) but it was too small to really show well. All gold still shows the face well. 
 
 

Build log part 52
 
 
THIS LOT ENDS THIS GORCH FOCK 2 BUILD LOG
 
 
Many thanks to all who had fun in following along this build log,
thanks for all the kind comments, your "likes", questions, and suggestions made. If there remain any questions, please feel free to ask, I shall be pleased to give answers.
It was a pleasure and very encouraging for me to share the making of this ship to all who like this 3-mast barque, and possibly it may encourage the one or other to consider it for their own build / Project list
 
THANK YOU
 
 
 

all last adjustments have been made to the rigging
 

the decks have been cleaned up
 

and scrubbed
 

and she find her honorable place in her own glasscase, protected from dust
 

and set up in my Hobby office
 
 
 
Auf Wiedersehen...
 
Nils

Build log part 51
 
 
 
HERE THE MODEL COMPLETED WITH ALL SAILS (part 2 of 3)
 
 
 
 

raft Container launching flip board
 

all ready for the maiden voyage
 

forecastle reports all sails set
 

mizzenmast top
 

foremast topgallant platform
 

foremast lower top with view on hard braced main sail yard
 

likewise for mainmast
 

mainsail braced leewards around the shrouds
 

view from the after wake
 

good at the wind course...
 
 
 
 
 
Build log part 52 to follow...
 
Nils

Build log part 50
 
 
 
HERE THE MODEL COMPLETED WITH ALL SAILS (part 1 of 3)
 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
Build log part 51 to follow...
 
Nils

Mark:
The hull really looks good. Nice work and thanks for sharing.
 
Russ

Thanks for looking.
 
Everyday I have tried to get something done in the workshop.  Today was two items:  one, the boxes for the steerage cables on their way up to the quarterdeck and two, finishing the bow wall planking.
 
For the cable boxes, I didn't want to use just a flat glue joint so I extended one side down into the floor planking:
 

 
The height of these boxes is equal to the size of the other coamings on the deck.  Pretty straight forward but really cleans up the look.
 
The second item was another major milestone - completion of the bow wall planking (and thus - all of the gundeck planking).
 

 
Next up is more sanding, the stern window frames, the hinges for the stern lockers and then the bulkhead partitions.
-mark

Thanks for looking.
 
Everyday I have tried to get something done in the workshop.  Today was two items:  one, the boxes for the steerage cables on their way up to the quarterdeck and two, finishing the bow wall planking.
 
For the cable boxes, I didn't want to use just a flat glue joint so I extended one side down into the floor planking:
 

 
The height of these boxes is equal to the size of the other coamings on the deck.  Pretty straight forward but really cleans up the look.
 
The second item was another major milestone - completion of the bow wall planking (and thus - all of the gundeck planking).
 

 
Next up is more sanding, the stern window frames, the hinges for the stern lockers and then the bulkhead partitions.
-mark

Thanks for looking.
 
Everyday I have tried to get something done in the workshop.  Today was two items:  one, the boxes for the steerage cables on their way up to the quarterdeck and two, finishing the bow wall planking.
 
For the cable boxes, I didn't want to use just a flat glue joint so I extended one side down into the floor planking:
 

 
The height of these boxes is equal to the size of the other coamings on the deck.  Pretty straight forward but really cleans up the look.
 
The second item was another major milestone - completion of the bow wall planking (and thus - all of the gundeck planking).
 

 
Next up is more sanding, the stern window frames, the hinges for the stern lockers and then the bulkhead partitions.
-mark

Thanks for looking.
 
Everyday I have tried to get something done in the workshop.  Today was two items:  one, the boxes for the steerage cables on their way up to the quarterdeck and two, finishing the bow wall planking.
 
For the cable boxes, I didn't want to use just a flat glue joint so I extended one side down into the floor planking:
 

 
The height of these boxes is equal to the size of the other coamings on the deck.  Pretty straight forward but really cleans up the look.
 
The second item was another major milestone - completion of the bow wall planking (and thus - all of the gundeck planking).
 

 
Next up is more sanding, the stern window frames, the hinges for the stern lockers and then the bulkhead partitions.
-mark

Today was the internal hawse hole linings.  Given the size of the holes and proximity to the edge of the pieces, opted for boxwood for this detail work.  First used some basswood to size things out though.  This lining will project out from the other wall planking by 1/32 (1/2 the width of the 1/16 wall planking).
 
The initial prototype built on the waterway just didn't look right and it was obvious this thick stuff needed to go down to the deck.  So, after measuring out the required distance I chiseled out the waterway.
 

 
Once I had the hawse hole lining roughed out I put it in place and did a light drill from the outside to place the location of the two hawse holes.  Once this was done the piece was removed and (as shown in the next pic) I used a smaller drill to locate these locations to the other (finished) side.  I could then drill the full size hole from both sides to avoid tear out and get a very neat and accurate hole.  I then used a file to put in a shallow groove  providing a smooth groove leading to the deck.  Once put in place the drill showed a clean smooth hole through the whole hull
 

 
I sized to fit under the first opening then rounded the edges exposed to the wall planking.  This will make the planking neat and tidy.
 

 
Now I can move on to the final bow planking.
 
-mark

Still plugging away and actually have a lot of fun.  I am now putting stuff on that will actually be easily seen in the finished product.  The big additions lately are the cap rails over the mid-deck section.  I used boxwood for these because of its hardness, given the potential for banging around during the construction to come.  Pretty much everything else is basswood.
 

 
This morning I got the chesstrees re-attached and the pass through hull sheaves on one side of the ship.  Still many details to work (eg I am adding a manger, window sills) on the gun deck - my goal is to finish this section up early next week.
 

 
Lots of sanding, sanding, sanding.  I have partially gel coated completed sections of the hull to highlight the plank seams, this will be 100% as the assemblies are finalized.
 
-mark

Today was the internal hawse hole linings.  Given the size of the holes and proximity to the edge of the pieces, opted for boxwood for this detail work.  First used some basswood to size things out though.  This lining will project out from the other wall planking by 1/32 (1/2 the width of the 1/16 wall planking).
 
The initial prototype built on the waterway just didn't look right and it was obvious this thick stuff needed to go down to the deck.  So, after measuring out the required distance I chiseled out the waterway.
 

 
Once I had the hawse hole lining roughed out I put it in place and did a light drill from the outside to place the location of the two hawse holes.  Once this was done the piece was removed and (as shown in the next pic) I used a smaller drill to locate these locations to the other (finished) side.  I could then drill the full size hole from both sides to avoid tear out and get a very neat and accurate hole.  I then used a file to put in a shallow groove  providing a smooth groove leading to the deck.  Once put in place the drill showed a clean smooth hole through the whole hull
 

 
I sized to fit under the first opening then rounded the edges exposed to the wall planking.  This will make the planking neat and tidy.
 

 
Now I can move on to the final bow planking.
 
-mark

Today was the internal hawse hole linings.  Given the size of the holes and proximity to the edge of the pieces, opted for boxwood for this detail work.  First used some basswood to size things out though.  This lining will project out from the other wall planking by 1/32 (1/2 the width of the 1/16 wall planking).
 
The initial prototype built on the waterway just didn't look right and it was obvious this thick stuff needed to go down to the deck.  So, after measuring out the required distance I chiseled out the waterway.
 

 
Once I had the hawse hole lining roughed out I put it in place and did a light drill from the outside to place the location of the two hawse holes.  Once this was done the piece was removed and (as shown in the next pic) I used a smaller drill to locate these locations to the other (finished) side.  I could then drill the full size hole from both sides to avoid tear out and get a very neat and accurate hole.  I then used a file to put in a shallow groove  providing a smooth groove leading to the deck.  Once put in place the drill showed a clean smooth hole through the whole hull
 

 
I sized to fit under the first opening then rounded the edges exposed to the wall planking.  This will make the planking neat and tidy.
 

 
Now I can move on to the final bow planking.
 
-mark

Today was the internal hawse hole linings.  Given the size of the holes and proximity to the edge of the pieces, opted for boxwood for this detail work.  First used some basswood to size things out though.  This lining will project out from the other wall planking by 1/32 (1/2 the width of the 1/16 wall planking).
 
The initial prototype built on the waterway just didn't look right and it was obvious this thick stuff needed to go down to the deck.  So, after measuring out the required distance I chiseled out the waterway.
 

 
Once I had the hawse hole lining roughed out I put it in place and did a light drill from the outside to place the location of the two hawse holes.  Once this was done the piece was removed and (as shown in the next pic) I used a smaller drill to locate these locations to the other (finished) side.  I could then drill the full size hole from both sides to avoid tear out and get a very neat and accurate hole.  I then used a file to put in a shallow groove  providing a smooth groove leading to the deck.  Once put in place the drill showed a clean smooth hole through the whole hull
 

 
I sized to fit under the first opening then rounded the edges exposed to the wall planking.  This will make the planking neat and tidy.
 

 
Now I can move on to the final bow planking.
 
-mark

Kruginmi - That is sooooo funny! Talk about a photo only shows what you want to show. I spent most of yesterday cleaning up the shop. As I move into the rigging I found my bench was so messy I would put something down and be unable to find it without searching. So I realized the peg board was made up of holes so I could easily rearrange it. So that is what I did yesterday. I moved some tools into cabinets and other tools out in front where I could reach them quicker.
 
I was thinking yesterday (as I did this), when I built the shop out, it was designed with furniture and other large items in mind. So all the tools are full size. However over the course of the build to date, I have used everything in the shop to one extent or another. Including the 8in jointer when I was taking down a chunk of Mahogany to make the mounting base. 
 
My woodworking hobby has consistently moved toward smaller and more detailed so ship building seems a natural occurring outgrowth of what I enjoy. Thanks for visiting the log. I will keep putting photos out there. Since I was just stropping and seizing blocks, there really wasn't much to take photos of.

Still plugging away and actually have a lot of fun.  I am now putting stuff on that will actually be easily seen in the finished product.  The big additions lately are the cap rails over the mid-deck section.  I used boxwood for these because of its hardness, given the potential for banging around during the construction to come.  Pretty much everything else is basswood.
 

 
This morning I got the chesstrees re-attached and the pass through hull sheaves on one side of the ship.  Still many details to work (eg I am adding a manger, window sills) on the gun deck - my goal is to finish this section up early next week.
 

 
Lots of sanding, sanding, sanding.  I have partially gel coated completed sections of the hull to highlight the plank seams, this will be 100% as the assemblies are finalized.
 
-mark