kruginmi

Whew!  When I decided to 'knock' out the rudder I had no idea the task I had set myself on.  Luckily, I say that looking back!  That's right, the rudder is finally in the rear view mirror.  This morning I escaped from the family and fashioned the blocks and rigging necessary to get every thing ship shape.  A very big day in the life of Druid.
 
I will post a couple pics of the obligatory rigging components.  Very tight spaces, small pieces and trying to get everything to match up with the plan.  First in the rough with all the stropping added and the synching up required.
 

 
Now for some clean-up and final looks (before it disappears into the depths of the hull:

 
Finally, I put it all together (looking at the plan MANY times to insure each side was a mirror of the other and corresponded to the plans): 

 
Unfortunately, everything starts to disappear as the next level carings and ledges are added:

 
As you can see I did need to cut out a little of the mast centering piece that was in the way, but this is to be all under floor planks.  Still need to run everything up to the ships wheel which will provide the needed tension to keep everything a little straighter.
 
I now get to think about this (small) victory for at least the rest of the day, before I move on to the next job.
 
Mark

Whew!  When I decided to 'knock' out the rudder I had no idea the task I had set myself on.  Luckily, I say that looking back!  That's right, the rudder is finally in the rear view mirror.  This morning I escaped from the family and fashioned the blocks and rigging necessary to get every thing ship shape.  A very big day in the life of Druid.
 
I will post a couple pics of the obligatory rigging components.  Very tight spaces, small pieces and trying to get everything to match up with the plan.  First in the rough with all the stropping added and the synching up required.
 

 
Now for some clean-up and final looks (before it disappears into the depths of the hull:

 
Finally, I put it all together (looking at the plan MANY times to insure each side was a mirror of the other and corresponded to the plans): 

 
Unfortunately, everything starts to disappear as the next level carings and ledges are added:

 
As you can see I did need to cut out a little of the mast centering piece that was in the way, but this is to be all under floor planks.  Still need to run everything up to the ships wheel which will provide the needed tension to keep everything a little straighter.
 
I now get to think about this (small) victory for at least the rest of the day, before I move on to the next job.
 
Mark

Whew!  When I decided to 'knock' out the rudder I had no idea the task I had set myself on.  Luckily, I say that looking back!  That's right, the rudder is finally in the rear view mirror.  This morning I escaped from the family and fashioned the blocks and rigging necessary to get every thing ship shape.  A very big day in the life of Druid.
 
I will post a couple pics of the obligatory rigging components.  Very tight spaces, small pieces and trying to get everything to match up with the plan.  First in the rough with all the stropping added and the synching up required.
 

 
Now for some clean-up and final looks (before it disappears into the depths of the hull:

 
Finally, I put it all together (looking at the plan MANY times to insure each side was a mirror of the other and corresponded to the plans): 

 
Unfortunately, everything starts to disappear as the next level carings and ledges are added:

 
As you can see I did need to cut out a little of the mast centering piece that was in the way, but this is to be all under floor planks.  Still need to run everything up to the ships wheel which will provide the needed tension to keep everything a little straighter.
 
I now get to think about this (small) victory for at least the rest of the day, before I move on to the next job.
 
Mark

I probably use my proportional divider (just like the one pictured) equal to or more than any other tool at my disposal.  I hardly ever use ruler measurements.  Anything off of the plan, or for that matter off of the ship being built, is done using these as well as a multitude of other things.
 
I can't tell you how many times I need to find an accurate midpoint or just to transfer a specific dimension from one place to another.  Planking has already been stated.  With a good pair (mine cost $80) the measurements are spot on.  I seem to find more uses as time goes by.
 
Each person has to figure out what works for them, but for me I find these simplify my life greatly - and to a greater accuracy.
 
Mark

Whew!  When I decided to 'knock' out the rudder I had no idea the task I had set myself on.  Luckily, I say that looking back!  That's right, the rudder is finally in the rear view mirror.  This morning I escaped from the family and fashioned the blocks and rigging necessary to get every thing ship shape.  A very big day in the life of Druid.
 
I will post a couple pics of the obligatory rigging components.  Very tight spaces, small pieces and trying to get everything to match up with the plan.  First in the rough with all the stropping added and the synching up required.
 

 
Now for some clean-up and final looks (before it disappears into the depths of the hull:

 
Finally, I put it all together (looking at the plan MANY times to insure each side was a mirror of the other and corresponded to the plans): 

 
Unfortunately, everything starts to disappear as the next level carings and ledges are added:

 
As you can see I did need to cut out a little of the mast centering piece that was in the way, but this is to be all under floor planks.  Still need to run everything up to the ships wheel which will provide the needed tension to keep everything a little straighter.
 
I now get to think about this (small) victory for at least the rest of the day, before I move on to the next job.
 
Mark

One small addendum, Lou (if you didn't already know):  after scoring the brass sheet with the utility knife, I put some straight wood on one side of the score and bent the metal along the score until around a 90 degree bend.  After two alternating bends the sheet simply separated at the score line.  This resulted in a very clean and straight 'cut' (at least as straight as the score line).  I did do a quick once over with a small file to eliminate any sharp edges.
 
Probably better than using scissors (if possible).
 
Looking Great!
Mark

Hi Lou
 
I must admit that I am thinking of changing the rake on my masts. Perhaps 12o on the fore mast and 15 on the main. Still not as much as POB vessels but a bit more like my source books say. We are all building variations into our models which is what I think happened with the original Baltimore schooners.
 
Re your chainplates, can you tell me what diameter brass wire and sheet thickness did you used. I think that what I have is a bit thin.
Blackie

I have had limited time in the shipyard but have been working on those blocks for quite awhile and still not satisfied with the result.  They look a whole lot better then above by going on a weight loss plan (width and length).  I almost just gave in and went to stropping them when I suddenly realized - this was My Druid.  Then it came to me - why make the blocks like kit blocks??
 
I went and fashioned ones by the numbers in less than an hour (a lot less time than the previous attempt!).  Below is a picture of the blocks in mid-construction.  I did glue the inner sheave to the block itself.  You can see the jig I made up to cut the sheave off of a hardwood dowel.  The outer layer is 1/16 inch basswood, the inner one 1/32 inch.
 

 
Once glued up, I cut each middle layer at the mid-way point.  With just a little shaping I compared this with the previous attempt:
 

 
This is SO much faster than trying to hack out of a solid block (for me) and the result looks so much better.  I will still do some shaping to reduce the overall width but that is very straight forward.  Each block looks the same and somewhat accurate also.  To add the external groove for the stropping to ride in I used a special cutter attachment on my dremel:
 

 
On any 1:48 scale model (or larger) I will always use this method for blocks.  NOW I can finally think about stropping.
 
Mark
 
 

I have had limited time in the shipyard but have been working on those blocks for quite awhile and still not satisfied with the result.  They look a whole lot better then above by going on a weight loss plan (width and length).  I almost just gave in and went to stropping them when I suddenly realized - this was My Druid.  Then it came to me - why make the blocks like kit blocks??
 
I went and fashioned ones by the numbers in less than an hour (a lot less time than the previous attempt!).  Below is a picture of the blocks in mid-construction.  I did glue the inner sheave to the block itself.  You can see the jig I made up to cut the sheave off of a hardwood dowel.  The outer layer is 1/16 inch basswood, the inner one 1/32 inch.
 

 
Once glued up, I cut each middle layer at the mid-way point.  With just a little shaping I compared this with the previous attempt:
 

 
This is SO much faster than trying to hack out of a solid block (for me) and the result looks so much better.  I will still do some shaping to reduce the overall width but that is very straight forward.  Each block looks the same and somewhat accurate also.  To add the external groove for the stropping to ride in I used a special cutter attachment on my dremel:
 

 
On any 1:48 scale model (or larger) I will always use this method for blocks.  NOW I can finally think about stropping.
 
Mark
 
 

Still working along but good to see some progress.  All I have left on this rudder is all the scale nails to hold the strapping on - hopefully tonight.
 
The top three bands and the tiller arm bands are from wrapped paper.  These areas are not seen on the finished ship so I thought it a great place to try out the technique.  Worked very well and I will add to my options in the future.
 

 
I added a faux end post on the stern of the rudder.  The actual tiller arm was cut down to a more manageable square and inserted into a hole that was initially drilled then squared off.  You can't tell.  The backup up tiller hole had to be more lifelike but after methodical progress turned out great.
 

 
The true test is to try out the resultant work in the space and see if everything lines up.  Success.  I love it when a plan comes together.
 

 
I need to power through those scale nails.  I had no idea how much effort and beauty rudders have.  Chemistry, metallurgy, shaping, joinery...  If you can do a successful rudder you can do an entire ship.
 
Mark

After a bunch of fits and starts I finally tried my hand at some rigging blocks for the tiller.  Of course these will not be seen, being buried in the back of the berth deck.  I will say the effort for these things is not inconsequential.
 




 
I think I still have another hour or so of refining individual blocks to bring out their best. With only eight to make I didn't build up any sort of jig.  With any more, this would have been a requirement.
 
On the question of stropping I am leaning towards using wire and extending that wire to allow the block to be fixed to the hull.  With the tension from the tiller rope they should be very taught and basically parallel to the deck.  I am worried using rope a sag will result.  Not trying to think too much!
 
mark

Thanks for all your comments!
 
Remco - There's no need to fix Fiebing's dye. It covers and penetrates beautifully and buffs to a nice finish. As a matter of fact, they recommend applying it to  wet leather.
 
Learner - I adapted my stove from Lavery's Arming and Fitting... It depicts an iron firehearth contemporary to Speedwell. Brodie stoves appeared decades later, c.1780. Here are a couple photos of the strove during construction. All brass parts were constructed over shaped plugs of holly and glued with J&B Weldbond. This creates a very strong bond and fills the joints which can then be sanded. The finish is automotive gray primer followed by automotive black.
 


 
Mark - trunnels are drilled and applied after the wales are in place. They are easily touched up using the dye on a q-tip. Kind of a wasted exercise though as they become invisible.
 
Speedwell is a nice little project at 1:48. She'll fit easily on my one remaining shelf.

After a bunch of fits and starts I finally tried my hand at some rigging blocks for the tiller.  Of course these will not be seen, being buried in the back of the berth deck.  I will say the effort for these things is not inconsequential.
 




 
I think I still have another hour or so of refining individual blocks to bring out their best. With only eight to make I didn't build up any sort of jig.  With any more, this would have been a requirement.
 
On the question of stropping I am leaning towards using wire and extending that wire to allow the block to be fixed to the hull.  With the tension from the tiller rope they should be very taught and basically parallel to the deck.  I am worried using rope a sag will result.  Not trying to think too much!
 
mark

Finally on the other side of that rudder.  This whole assembly was a whole lot more than I ever thought it was going to be.  I will never look at a rudder the same way again!
 
I am pretty proud of the result - kids actually looked up from their IPODS when I went to show them so I will take that as a compliment.  At least the three year old was audibly impressed.  I can actually think of buttoning up that berth deck now (once I get the tiller arm rigged in, well, once I make the blocks so I can rig the tiller arm in....).
 
Oh well, Here is to the Victories of Today!
 

 
Mark

Still working along but good to see some progress.  All I have left on this rudder is all the scale nails to hold the strapping on - hopefully tonight.
 
The top three bands and the tiller arm bands are from wrapped paper.  These areas are not seen on the finished ship so I thought it a great place to try out the technique.  Worked very well and I will add to my options in the future.
 

 
I added a faux end post on the stern of the rudder.  The actual tiller arm was cut down to a more manageable square and inserted into a hole that was initially drilled then squared off.  You can't tell.  The backup up tiller hole had to be more lifelike but after methodical progress turned out great.
 

 
The true test is to try out the resultant work in the space and see if everything lines up.  Success.  I love it when a plan comes together.
 

 
I need to power through those scale nails.  I had no idea how much effort and beauty rudders have.  Chemistry, metallurgy, shaping, joinery...  If you can do a successful rudder you can do an entire ship.
 
Mark

Thanks Brian and Lou - slow but keeping at it!
 
I started to blacken the metal and thought I would share my approach (this did not come easy at first!)
 
The process includes three containers that each metal piece goes through, acetone, blacken it (thinned) and finally water.  I will not touch the piece until it has finished through the process, only with forceps.
 

 
The acetone is used to thoroughly clean the metal and is left in for 10 - 15 seconds, with some mild shaking of the container to insure no air bubbles or contact with the bottom of the container is masking some oil.  Upon completion the parts are patted dry.  On a side note, I get my acetone in small quantities by going to the nail polish remover aisle of the general store.
 
The blacken- it solution is 1 part patina, 10 parts water.  Any more and the solution produces globs of black stuff that wipe off the metal and is quite messy.  This was my initial mistake years ago.  The green measuring cup is from a Miracle-Gro mix and is perfect - the small end for blacken-it, the large end for water.  The parts generally go in for about 5 minutes or so with some mild shaking again.  Again, patted dry upon completion.
 
The water is to wash off any blacken-it remaining then a final patting dry.  The results on the top two pieces of the rudder metal work are the result of this process.  Pretty straight forward one you have the right chemicals!
 

 
I have opted to hand drill the holes in the metal and other than sore fingers the going is fine.  Tomorrow I hope to make some scale nails, finish the drilling, and get the metal work affixed.  I am thinking about adding rudder chains so that may be a little more work.
 
Cheers, mark

Finally on the other side of that rudder.  This whole assembly was a whole lot more than I ever thought it was going to be.  I will never look at a rudder the same way again!
 
I am pretty proud of the result - kids actually looked up from their IPODS when I went to show them so I will take that as a compliment.  At least the three year old was audibly impressed.  I can actually think of buttoning up that berth deck now (once I get the tiller arm rigged in, well, once I make the blocks so I can rig the tiller arm in....).
 
Oh well, Here is to the Victories of Today!
 

 
Mark

Finally on the other side of that rudder.  This whole assembly was a whole lot more than I ever thought it was going to be.  I will never look at a rudder the same way again!
 
I am pretty proud of the result - kids actually looked up from their IPODS when I went to show them so I will take that as a compliment.  At least the three year old was audibly impressed.  I can actually think of buttoning up that berth deck now (once I get the tiller arm rigged in, well, once I make the blocks so I can rig the tiller arm in....).
 
Oh well, Here is to the Victories of Today!
 

 
Mark

Finally on the other side of that rudder.  This whole assembly was a whole lot more than I ever thought it was going to be.  I will never look at a rudder the same way again!
 
I am pretty proud of the result - kids actually looked up from their IPODS when I went to show them so I will take that as a compliment.  At least the three year old was audibly impressed.  I can actually think of buttoning up that berth deck now (once I get the tiller arm rigged in, well, once I make the blocks so I can rig the tiller arm in....).
 
Oh well, Here is to the Victories of Today!
 

 
Mark

Finally on the other side of that rudder.  This whole assembly was a whole lot more than I ever thought it was going to be.  I will never look at a rudder the same way again!
 
I am pretty proud of the result - kids actually looked up from their IPODS when I went to show them so I will take that as a compliment.  At least the three year old was audibly impressed.  I can actually think of buttoning up that berth deck now (once I get the tiller arm rigged in, well, once I make the blocks so I can rig the tiller arm in....).
 
Oh well, Here is to the Victories of Today!
 

 
Mark

Things you never learn growing up......
 
I never knew you can buy sewing pins with different sized pin heads!  I have been almost stopped on the Druid trying to figure out how to produce all those bolt heads required.  I tried a number of things without much success.  Finally I just picked up my (almost worn out, threadbare) Hahn book and re-read the Druid chapter.
 
Low and behold, he mentions using pins (as well as touching up the blackened brass with paint).  I quickly took the pins I had and knew the head was oversized and not right.  The next day I stopped by the local sewing shop and was amazed by the wall of pins.  They were sorted by type, metal content and finally - HEAD SIZE!  Am I the only one to not know this?
 
I had hoped for brass but after a certain size the only available was nickel plated steel.  I hoped it would blacken.  I had brought some sample brass strapping and figure out the size 8 head was the correct size.  So for $3.50 I had 350 pins.
 

 
When I got home I plunked one in the blackening solution and it quickly turned black - success!  In just an hour or so I had the rudder all bolted in.  The next picture is fuzzy but it shows progress where before there was none:
 

 
All the touching and pushing to get the bolts into their pre-drilled holes (with super-glue) defintely required some touch up (as previously talked about).  I used some flat black paint and it looked as good as new.
 
Now that I am over that mental hurdle, this weekend the job is to get the rudder totally mounted to the hull.
 
mark

Thanks John and Daniel, I always appreciate the feedback.
 
If this helps, Daniel, that is great.  I just know the unknown has always held me back from progress and as I finally delve in (with the help of enthusiasts locally or sites such as this one) the tasks are not as hard as I anticipated.  The rudder was one of these things - wood, chemicals and metal all in one package.
 
Here is hoping the next post will show the rudder complete and hanging!
 
Mark

With the time available I am slowly progressing forward.  An inventory of my brass supply showed I had insufficient stock for all the work I needed to do (especially when I think about scrap!).  I had previously bought it pre-cut but opted to take the dive this time and buy it as a sheet and cut it as needed:
 

 
Wasn't that bad to score and snap off the strips I need.  I will save a little $$ with this and feel my skills have advanced a little. 
 
Previously when I worked with the cylinder brass I always inserted the matching rod to hold the tube in place against the strapping.  Well, the next two times with silver solder the rod was welded in place as well as the cylinder.  As I pondered the imponderables the obvious came to me:  do not cut the cylinder to shape until after it is affixed to the strapping:
 


 
Sample fittings showed that the hull side hinge needed to be offset from the hull more than what the base strapping allowed, so another piece of brass was added.  The strapping was bent to hold the new piece firm during heating and soldering, then bent afterwards back to shape.  Worked like a charm.
 

 
With the new pieces attached to their rudder join part, this was put against the hull and the required attachment point was identified.  I did mark where the strapping layed against the hull and once again chiseled out that area for added strength and accurate positioning.  I decided to add the wood under the straps where the planking was absent. 
 
The final shot is the bottom two rudder hinges roughed in.  I need to do the same to the top hinges and then make the holes for the faux bolts.  I can say the rudder is suspended on its own.  It can move freely and is centered, so I am  happy with the progress.
 

 
Keeping moving forward,
Mark

Still working along but good to see some progress.  All I have left on this rudder is all the scale nails to hold the strapping on - hopefully tonight.
 
The top three bands and the tiller arm bands are from wrapped paper.  These areas are not seen on the finished ship so I thought it a great place to try out the technique.  Worked very well and I will add to my options in the future.
 

 
I added a faux end post on the stern of the rudder.  The actual tiller arm was cut down to a more manageable square and inserted into a hole that was initially drilled then squared off.  You can't tell.  The backup up tiller hole had to be more lifelike but after methodical progress turned out great.
 

 
The true test is to try out the resultant work in the space and see if everything lines up.  Success.  I love it when a plan comes together.
 

 
I need to power through those scale nails.  I had no idea how much effort and beauty rudders have.  Chemistry, metallurgy, shaping, joinery...  If you can do a successful rudder you can do an entire ship.
 
Mark

Slowly plugging away at the rudder as time allows.  With the silver soldering finally set right I can move forward.  The metal work still requires the nail holes drilled and then blackened but I am happy with them.
 
After soldering the three pieces together it took about an hour to slowly bend and fashion it to the correct profile.  After I was satisfied (and the length was cut to its required length) I did mark its profile and chisel it in.  As is seen in the pictures, the pieces stay put rather well even before glue and nails.  I want to have the rudder work totally done and rock solid before I start the hull side to keep the variables to a minimum.
 

 
Still have a rear wood piece on the rudder and then eventually the tiller arm.  My goal is to have the rudder basically done by the end of the weekend.
 
mark