kruginmi

Decided to tackle the false deck next.  This was not straightforward for a number of reasons but I thought the stability a false deck would bring would help so there you go.  I did bevel the upper part of each bulkhead to allow a smooth transition fore and aft.
 
Figuring out the false deck dimensions are not necessarily straight forward.  Yes, there is an outline defined but the dimensions extend to the widest part of the ship at each frame, which may (or may) not be found at the deck level depending on the tumble home (but it is a start).

So the first thing I did was take each bulkhead and scribe the deck level on the inner edge.  I whipped up a Deck camber guide and drew in the deck extending to each bulkhead edge.  Then, I drew in the rails that projected up to to hold the railing.  Of course, doing some quality control checks showed the railing posts were too short and had to have small pieces added to achieve the necessary dimension.
Here was my first dunder head moment:  I had carefully measured, cut and sanded to the precise level just below the planks.....BUT did not include the space required for the false deck.  MORE measuring, cutting and sanding (I had good tunes going so that was ok). 

 
I checked the resultant widths against the outline drawing.  Above the false deck there was quite a bit of difference, below not too bad.  I decided to cut out the deck as defined and sand any excess off later.  Each bulkhead was measured against the deck to accurately place the railing post.  This was cut out and verified.

Finally the bulkheads were put back into their respective stations and all the pieces put on.  (Seemingly the the first time) everything worked and I could look at this stage as being done.

Still need to sand the little excess off of the false deck and actually put the bevels in below the false deck but calling this as milestone done.  Now looking hard at the bow.  That first bulkhead just doesn't look right.  I need to re-verify and get that area so it makes sense.  THEN sand the bulkheads to correct bevels.
 
Stay Building My Friends.  -Mark

A host of clean up tasks to bring everything up to spec:
- Redid first bulkhead.  Somewhere this thing mutated.  Now makes sense and looks right.
- Lower false deck edges sanded flush with frames.
- Upper bulkheads cut to allow for false deck
- Upper false deck deck to shape
- Rearmost bulkhead cut out
 
Now actually looks like something.  I did laugh at myself (you have to in ship modeling).  When I removed all the paper templates from the frames there was some slop in the alignment slop (to be expected).  I cut some wedges to firm things up.  Half way through sanding I realized I had left the left side of the slot filler (ship to edge of board) tight but not affixed to allow for this correction.  Remove all wedges and push in my adjuster.  Job done.

 
The Building Board is getting a little crazy (I glue on another bench).  If I didn't know any better I look like I know what I am doing LOL.

 
Thinking of adding another bulkhead forward.  Since I am going to make a full POB this would be in line with this process.  The rest will be a basswood block shaped.
 
I want to get the stern buttoned up so that will continue.  Then the Bow.  All the masts, spars and such are all drawn out and correct (same as used on actual boat).  The key is to get the frankenstein hull complete enough so I can make accurate plans that I trust.        -Mark

A host of clean up tasks to bring everything up to spec:
- Redid first bulkhead.  Somewhere this thing mutated.  Now makes sense and looks right.
- Lower false deck edges sanded flush with frames.
- Upper bulkheads cut to allow for false deck
- Upper false deck deck to shape
- Rearmost bulkhead cut out
 
Now actually looks like something.  I did laugh at myself (you have to in ship modeling).  When I removed all the paper templates from the frames there was some slop in the alignment slop (to be expected).  I cut some wedges to firm things up.  Half way through sanding I realized I had left the left side of the slot filler (ship to edge of board) tight but not affixed to allow for this correction.  Remove all wedges and push in my adjuster.  Job done.

 
The Building Board is getting a little crazy (I glue on another bench).  If I didn't know any better I look like I know what I am doing LOL.

 
Thinking of adding another bulkhead forward.  Since I am going to make a full POB this would be in line with this process.  The rest will be a basswood block shaped.
 
I want to get the stern buttoned up so that will continue.  Then the Bow.  All the masts, spars and such are all drawn out and correct (same as used on actual boat).  The key is to get the frankenstein hull complete enough so I can make accurate plans that I trust.        -Mark

A host of clean up tasks to bring everything up to spec:
- Redid first bulkhead.  Somewhere this thing mutated.  Now makes sense and looks right.
- Lower false deck edges sanded flush with frames.
- Upper bulkheads cut to allow for false deck
- Upper false deck deck to shape
- Rearmost bulkhead cut out
 
Now actually looks like something.  I did laugh at myself (you have to in ship modeling).  When I removed all the paper templates from the frames there was some slop in the alignment slop (to be expected).  I cut some wedges to firm things up.  Half way through sanding I realized I had left the left side of the slot filler (ship to edge of board) tight but not affixed to allow for this correction.  Remove all wedges and push in my adjuster.  Job done.

 
The Building Board is getting a little crazy (I glue on another bench).  If I didn't know any better I look like I know what I am doing LOL.

 
Thinking of adding another bulkhead forward.  Since I am going to make a full POB this would be in line with this process.  The rest will be a basswood block shaped.
 
I want to get the stern buttoned up so that will continue.  Then the Bow.  All the masts, spars and such are all drawn out and correct (same as used on actual boat).  The key is to get the frankenstein hull complete enough so I can make accurate plans that I trust.        -Mark

Question:  What is a good way to secure eyebolts so they don't pull out later?  (other than CY glue)
 
Setup:  I have  an enclosed POB hull that requires MANY eyebolts to be installed. 
 
History:  On other builds this had been an easy practice of drilling in a hole equal to the diameter of the eyebolt stem (hopefully at an angle separate from the rigging pull) and apply CY glue to the stem before pushing through the hole.  Since i do not have access to the lower part, this was all I could do.
 
Drawbacks:  You usually end up with a little puddle of CY glue around the bolt that even with the best wiping will not take a finish like the rest of the surrounding deck.  BIGGEST ISSUE:  I have had a couple pull out when rigging.  I try not to put too much tension on the lines, but there is some.
 
Idea:  I am pondering creating a much larger hole than the eyebolt diameter (but still pretty small).  Offship I will create a matching plug.  The plug would be drilled out for the eyebolt and the eyebolt pushed through WITH NO GLUE.  Now the plug would be flipped over, the eyebolt bent to prohibit it going back through the hull and CY glue applied at this end.  Once complete the plug would be glued into the hull.  This would provide a much larger gluing area and shouldn't pull out (the plug or eyebolt).
 
Is there a simpler idea out there that I am overlooking?  I will try a prototype for pics if my words have confused.
 
Thanks for any help,
Mark

Decided to tackle the false deck next.  This was not straightforward for a number of reasons but I thought the stability a false deck would bring would help so there you go.  I did bevel the upper part of each bulkhead to allow a smooth transition fore and aft.
 
Figuring out the false deck dimensions are not necessarily straight forward.  Yes, there is an outline defined but the dimensions extend to the widest part of the ship at each frame, which may (or may) not be found at the deck level depending on the tumble home (but it is a start).

So the first thing I did was take each bulkhead and scribe the deck level on the inner edge.  I whipped up a Deck camber guide and drew in the deck extending to each bulkhead edge.  Then, I drew in the rails that projected up to to hold the railing.  Of course, doing some quality control checks showed the railing posts were too short and had to have small pieces added to achieve the necessary dimension.
Here was my first dunder head moment:  I had carefully measured, cut and sanded to the precise level just below the planks.....BUT did not include the space required for the false deck.  MORE measuring, cutting and sanding (I had good tunes going so that was ok). 

 
I checked the resultant widths against the outline drawing.  Above the false deck there was quite a bit of difference, below not too bad.  I decided to cut out the deck as defined and sand any excess off later.  Each bulkhead was measured against the deck to accurately place the railing post.  This was cut out and verified.

Finally the bulkheads were put back into their respective stations and all the pieces put on.  (Seemingly the the first time) everything worked and I could look at this stage as being done.

Still need to sand the little excess off of the false deck and actually put the bevels in below the false deck but calling this as milestone done.  Now looking hard at the bow.  That first bulkhead just doesn't look right.  I need to re-verify and get that area so it makes sense.  THEN sand the bulkheads to correct bevels.
 
Stay Building My Friends.  -Mark

Decided to tackle the false deck next.  This was not straightforward for a number of reasons but I thought the stability a false deck would bring would help so there you go.  I did bevel the upper part of each bulkhead to allow a smooth transition fore and aft.
 
Figuring out the false deck dimensions are not necessarily straight forward.  Yes, there is an outline defined but the dimensions extend to the widest part of the ship at each frame, which may (or may) not be found at the deck level depending on the tumble home (but it is a start).

So the first thing I did was take each bulkhead and scribe the deck level on the inner edge.  I whipped up a Deck camber guide and drew in the deck extending to each bulkhead edge.  Then, I drew in the rails that projected up to to hold the railing.  Of course, doing some quality control checks showed the railing posts were too short and had to have small pieces added to achieve the necessary dimension.
Here was my first dunder head moment:  I had carefully measured, cut and sanded to the precise level just below the planks.....BUT did not include the space required for the false deck.  MORE measuring, cutting and sanding (I had good tunes going so that was ok). 

 
I checked the resultant widths against the outline drawing.  Above the false deck there was quite a bit of difference, below not too bad.  I decided to cut out the deck as defined and sand any excess off later.  Each bulkhead was measured against the deck to accurately place the railing post.  This was cut out and verified.

Finally the bulkheads were put back into their respective stations and all the pieces put on.  (Seemingly the the first time) everything worked and I could look at this stage as being done.

Still need to sand the little excess off of the false deck and actually put the bevels in below the false deck but calling this as milestone done.  Now looking hard at the bow.  That first bulkhead just doesn't look right.  I need to re-verify and get that area so it makes sense.  THEN sand the bulkheads to correct bevels.
 
Stay Building My Friends.  -Mark

I am posting today as a warning to others......Man, have I made stupid quality issues throughout!  Attention to detail.  This has almost become like work (ok, not really, and I am making progress).
 
First up the stern.  Remade the stern post to look more tidy and took a wack at a wing transom (or two or three wacks).   The thing I keep forgetting is that the measurements can't solely be taken off of the as built plans, that the lower hull is from Chapman.  Sigh.  Finally got there in the end.  Still need to cut the slots for the rear bulkhead supports (three per side).  Still some tweaking to go there..

Bow:  BIG ISSUE (okay, found out not so bad).  I cut the template for the area between the foreward most bulkhead and the stern post (from the as built plans - the deck should be spot on so easy peasy).  WRONG.  The frame and template did not match up at all.  I thought bad thoughts and swore the as built plans had issues.  So frustrated I almost tore my plans in two.  Deep breath.  After cooling off and rationally looking at it I finally figured out I had mapped the frames wrong (ME).  I had used frame W when I had labeled everything X.  Luckily X was smaller in profile than W so with some quick measuring I cut the frame correctly and everything lined up.  Phew.
 
Bow:  Another Issue.  The drawn template laid down on the forward edge of the stem post (can't even remember the right lingo right now) as opposed to the bearding line.  After more head scratching figured I had taken the as built deck dimensions (good job), but the as built layout did not include the protrusion of the stem past the planking.  The as built ship is an unsinkable Coast Guard approved tub and really doesn't need or have this.  So......I redrew the front of the ship to extend it out.  Now the deck is the same as the as built (kudos) and I have the stem to seat my bowsprit on - Win Win.

So lots of issues to work through but solutions found that didn't involve starting from scratch.  Again, so glad I decided to do this 1/2 hull mock up to get through these things.  Next up is to finish the rear bulkhead then cut out a false deck for strengthening the bulkheads but also to validate the deck perimeter and sand correctly.  Wish me luck.            -Mark

What a noob.  I have been away from this hobby too long LOL.  Thinking about what I had been doing (largely on automatic) and specifically the stern and realized a couple of facts:
1. I still need to cut the bearding line which would reset the planks into the keel but ALSO setup up for flush mount on the stern post (at least for the garboard strake).
2.  The lines I had used from the Chapman I had forced to be the OUTSIDE of the planks.  Duh.  So the frames used on the stern were a plank width too wide on the bottom.
 
Take the combination of the two and you have a much more organized stern that actually fits together.  You have to laugh at yourself sometimes.  The frames still have not been beveled so that will also help a lot.
 
I do pat my back that this 1/2 hull is to prove out dimensions prior to investing in a bigger build so I take solace.  The wing transom will be next to finalize this stern build area.  Also the final stern post will have a dado into the keel.

I also decided I didn't like the amount of keel above the frames, so I sliced down to an 1/8" total.  Looks better.  Pictured alongside is a 1/16" thick plank (3" scale), 1/4" wide (12" scale).
 
Stay Building (and learning) my Friends,  -Mark

I am posting today as a warning to others......Man, have I made stupid quality issues throughout!  Attention to detail.  This has almost become like work (ok, not really, and I am making progress).
 
First up the stern.  Remade the stern post to look more tidy and took a wack at a wing transom (or two or three wacks).   The thing I keep forgetting is that the measurements can't solely be taken off of the as built plans, that the lower hull is from Chapman.  Sigh.  Finally got there in the end.  Still need to cut the slots for the rear bulkhead supports (three per side).  Still some tweaking to go there..

Bow:  BIG ISSUE (okay, found out not so bad).  I cut the template for the area between the foreward most bulkhead and the stern post (from the as built plans - the deck should be spot on so easy peasy).  WRONG.  The frame and template did not match up at all.  I thought bad thoughts and swore the as built plans had issues.  So frustrated I almost tore my plans in two.  Deep breath.  After cooling off and rationally looking at it I finally figured out I had mapped the frames wrong (ME).  I had used frame W when I had labeled everything X.  Luckily X was smaller in profile than W so with some quick measuring I cut the frame correctly and everything lined up.  Phew.
 
Bow:  Another Issue.  The drawn template laid down on the forward edge of the stem post (can't even remember the right lingo right now) as opposed to the bearding line.  After more head scratching figured I had taken the as built deck dimensions (good job), but the as built layout did not include the protrusion of the stem past the planking.  The as built ship is an unsinkable Coast Guard approved tub and really doesn't need or have this.  So......I redrew the front of the ship to extend it out.  Now the deck is the same as the as built (kudos) and I have the stem to seat my bowsprit on - Win Win.

So lots of issues to work through but solutions found that didn't involve starting from scratch.  Again, so glad I decided to do this 1/2 hull mock up to get through these things.  Next up is to finish the rear bulkhead then cut out a false deck for strengthening the bulkheads but also to validate the deck perimeter and sand correctly.  Wish me luck.            -Mark

I am posting today as a warning to others......Man, have I made stupid quality issues throughout!  Attention to detail.  This has almost become like work (ok, not really, and I am making progress).
 
First up the stern.  Remade the stern post to look more tidy and took a wack at a wing transom (or two or three wacks).   The thing I keep forgetting is that the measurements can't solely be taken off of the as built plans, that the lower hull is from Chapman.  Sigh.  Finally got there in the end.  Still need to cut the slots for the rear bulkhead supports (three per side).  Still some tweaking to go there..

Bow:  BIG ISSUE (okay, found out not so bad).  I cut the template for the area between the foreward most bulkhead and the stern post (from the as built plans - the deck should be spot on so easy peasy).  WRONG.  The frame and template did not match up at all.  I thought bad thoughts and swore the as built plans had issues.  So frustrated I almost tore my plans in two.  Deep breath.  After cooling off and rationally looking at it I finally figured out I had mapped the frames wrong (ME).  I had used frame W when I had labeled everything X.  Luckily X was smaller in profile than W so with some quick measuring I cut the frame correctly and everything lined up.  Phew.
 
Bow:  Another Issue.  The drawn template laid down on the forward edge of the stem post (can't even remember the right lingo right now) as opposed to the bearding line.  After more head scratching figured I had taken the as built deck dimensions (good job), but the as built layout did not include the protrusion of the stem past the planking.  The as built ship is an unsinkable Coast Guard approved tub and really doesn't need or have this.  So......I redrew the front of the ship to extend it out.  Now the deck is the same as the as built (kudos) and I have the stem to seat my bowsprit on - Win Win.

So lots of issues to work through but solutions found that didn't involve starting from scratch.  Again, so glad I decided to do this 1/2 hull mock up to get through these things.  Next up is to finish the rear bulkhead then cut out a false deck for strengthening the bulkheads but also to validate the deck perimeter and sand correctly.  Wish me luck.            -Mark

I am posting today as a warning to others......Man, have I made stupid quality issues throughout!  Attention to detail.  This has almost become like work (ok, not really, and I am making progress).
 
First up the stern.  Remade the stern post to look more tidy and took a wack at a wing transom (or two or three wacks).   The thing I keep forgetting is that the measurements can't solely be taken off of the as built plans, that the lower hull is from Chapman.  Sigh.  Finally got there in the end.  Still need to cut the slots for the rear bulkhead supports (three per side).  Still some tweaking to go there..

Bow:  BIG ISSUE (okay, found out not so bad).  I cut the template for the area between the foreward most bulkhead and the stern post (from the as built plans - the deck should be spot on so easy peasy).  WRONG.  The frame and template did not match up at all.  I thought bad thoughts and swore the as built plans had issues.  So frustrated I almost tore my plans in two.  Deep breath.  After cooling off and rationally looking at it I finally figured out I had mapped the frames wrong (ME).  I had used frame W when I had labeled everything X.  Luckily X was smaller in profile than W so with some quick measuring I cut the frame correctly and everything lined up.  Phew.
 
Bow:  Another Issue.  The drawn template laid down on the forward edge of the stem post (can't even remember the right lingo right now) as opposed to the bearding line.  After more head scratching figured I had taken the as built deck dimensions (good job), but the as built layout did not include the protrusion of the stem past the planking.  The as built ship is an unsinkable Coast Guard approved tub and really doesn't need or have this.  So......I redrew the front of the ship to extend it out.  Now the deck is the same as the as built (kudos) and I have the stem to seat my bowsprit on - Win Win.

So lots of issues to work through but solutions found that didn't involve starting from scratch.  Again, so glad I decided to do this 1/2 hull mock up to get through these things.  Next up is to finish the rear bulkhead then cut out a false deck for strengthening the bulkheads but also to validate the deck perimeter and sand correctly.  Wish me luck.            -Mark

I am posting today as a warning to others......Man, have I made stupid quality issues throughout!  Attention to detail.  This has almost become like work (ok, not really, and I am making progress).
 
First up the stern.  Remade the stern post to look more tidy and took a wack at a wing transom (or two or three wacks).   The thing I keep forgetting is that the measurements can't solely be taken off of the as built plans, that the lower hull is from Chapman.  Sigh.  Finally got there in the end.  Still need to cut the slots for the rear bulkhead supports (three per side).  Still some tweaking to go there..

Bow:  BIG ISSUE (okay, found out not so bad).  I cut the template for the area between the foreward most bulkhead and the stern post (from the as built plans - the deck should be spot on so easy peasy).  WRONG.  The frame and template did not match up at all.  I thought bad thoughts and swore the as built plans had issues.  So frustrated I almost tore my plans in two.  Deep breath.  After cooling off and rationally looking at it I finally figured out I had mapped the frames wrong (ME).  I had used frame W when I had labeled everything X.  Luckily X was smaller in profile than W so with some quick measuring I cut the frame correctly and everything lined up.  Phew.
 
Bow:  Another Issue.  The drawn template laid down on the forward edge of the stem post (can't even remember the right lingo right now) as opposed to the bearding line.  After more head scratching figured I had taken the as built deck dimensions (good job), but the as built layout did not include the protrusion of the stem past the planking.  The as built ship is an unsinkable Coast Guard approved tub and really doesn't need or have this.  So......I redrew the front of the ship to extend it out.  Now the deck is the same as the as built (kudos) and I have the stem to seat my bowsprit on - Win Win.

So lots of issues to work through but solutions found that didn't involve starting from scratch.  Again, so glad I decided to do this 1/2 hull mock up to get through these things.  Next up is to finish the rear bulkhead then cut out a false deck for strengthening the bulkheads but also to validate the deck perimeter and sand correctly.  Wish me luck.            -Mark

What a noob.  I have been away from this hobby too long LOL.  Thinking about what I had been doing (largely on automatic) and specifically the stern and realized a couple of facts:
1. I still need to cut the bearding line which would reset the planks into the keel but ALSO setup up for flush mount on the stern post (at least for the garboard strake).
2.  The lines I had used from the Chapman I had forced to be the OUTSIDE of the planks.  Duh.  So the frames used on the stern were a plank width too wide on the bottom.
 
Take the combination of the two and you have a much more organized stern that actually fits together.  You have to laugh at yourself sometimes.  The frames still have not been beveled so that will also help a lot.
 
I do pat my back that this 1/2 hull is to prove out dimensions prior to investing in a bigger build so I take solace.  The wing transom will be next to finalize this stern build area.  Also the final stern post will have a dado into the keel.

I also decided I didn't like the amount of keel above the frames, so I sliced down to an 1/8" total.  Looks better.  Pictured alongside is a 1/16" thick plank (3" scale), 1/4" wide (12" scale).
 
Stay Building (and learning) my Friends,  -Mark

What a noob.  I have been away from this hobby too long LOL.  Thinking about what I had been doing (largely on automatic) and specifically the stern and realized a couple of facts:
1. I still need to cut the bearding line which would reset the planks into the keel but ALSO setup up for flush mount on the stern post (at least for the garboard strake).
2.  The lines I had used from the Chapman I had forced to be the OUTSIDE of the planks.  Duh.  So the frames used on the stern were a plank width too wide on the bottom.
 
Take the combination of the two and you have a much more organized stern that actually fits together.  You have to laugh at yourself sometimes.  The frames still have not been beveled so that will also help a lot.
 
I do pat my back that this 1/2 hull is to prove out dimensions prior to investing in a bigger build so I take solace.  The wing transom will be next to finalize this stern build area.  Also the final stern post will have a dado into the keel.

I also decided I didn't like the amount of keel above the frames, so I sliced down to an 1/8" total.  Looks better.  Pictured alongside is a 1/16" thick plank (3" scale), 1/4" wide (12" scale).
 
Stay Building (and learning) my Friends,  -Mark

On wards and upwards.  The ends of the frames (near the keel) were a little hacked up.  So, I cut a bit off and reconstructed to clean them up.  I cut out a basic keel shape and also cut the frame slots out.  The frames stick a 1/4" into the keel.  An 1/8" of this will be a 1/8" slot for the frames to sit on and insure they are centered.  Might cut the total slot to 3/16".  The beauty of a 1:1 1/2 hull prototype.  The bow is soon to come.

Need to reacquaint myself on how to terminate the planks on the stern (below the waterline) for a Bermuda Sloop like design.  No room to curve into the stem at all, has to have a bulkhead like piece to land on.  Above the waterline need to also identify the wing transom and related architecture.  Have to dig out my books.  -Mark

With a good fair wind I added the braces tonight.  Everything still removable and all bulkheads lay flat to easily transfer to vellum when everything done.

Next up is to clean up the bottom edges to the bearding line and work on getting the 1/2 keel added for strength.  Also need to cutout a false deck to get that sizing correct.  - Mark
 

Hey, Progress!  Visions of Druid dances in my head LOL.  Long time since I have sniffed Rubber Cement.
 
Got everything rough cut.  Next up is to add the tabs for the backboard, then the spacers to solidify.  A keel (1/2 width) also to be made to solidify it all and then......sanding.  Always sanding. 
 
The three values shown per frame are the # frame I have drawn, frame from original FGW ship plans used to define top hull and finally the Chapman line used to derive bottom hull.

With all this down time (stay safe everyone), made some progress on the FGW.  Got the 1/2 hull proto board setup and the confirmation frames drawn up and glued to a 3/16 basswood board (1/4" frame spacing).  The notch for the board will be added later.  Got to love the smell of rubber cement.
 
I did a lot of off board quality checks on the drawn up frames (top 1/3 is equivalent to FGW, bottom 2/3 from Chapman plans).  Given my hull depth and waterline adopted some issues arose which had to be corrected.  Upon confirmation of these frames on the board, they will be used to create the master set of profiles.
 
Currently thinking the initial build will be a full bulkhead one for speed of construction.  I will see what the next week brings (did get a partial furlough from work so more time!).  My other issue is I have recently taken up guitar.  Competing hobbies LOL.
 
Mark
 

On wards and upwards.  The ends of the frames (near the keel) were a little hacked up.  So, I cut a bit off and reconstructed to clean them up.  I cut out a basic keel shape and also cut the frame slots out.  The frames stick a 1/4" into the keel.  An 1/8" of this will be a 1/8" slot for the frames to sit on and insure they are centered.  Might cut the total slot to 3/16".  The beauty of a 1:1 1/2 hull prototype.  The bow is soon to come.

Need to reacquaint myself on how to terminate the planks on the stern (below the waterline) for a Bermuda Sloop like design.  No room to curve into the stem at all, has to have a bulkhead like piece to land on.  Above the waterline need to also identify the wing transom and related architecture.  Have to dig out my books.  -Mark

On wards and upwards.  The ends of the frames (near the keel) were a little hacked up.  So, I cut a bit off and reconstructed to clean them up.  I cut out a basic keel shape and also cut the frame slots out.  The frames stick a 1/4" into the keel.  An 1/8" of this will be a 1/8" slot for the frames to sit on and insure they are centered.  Might cut the total slot to 3/16".  The beauty of a 1:1 1/2 hull prototype.  The bow is soon to come.

Need to reacquaint myself on how to terminate the planks on the stern (below the waterline) for a Bermuda Sloop like design.  No room to curve into the stem at all, has to have a bulkhead like piece to land on.  Above the waterline need to also identify the wing transom and related architecture.  Have to dig out my books.  -Mark

On wards and upwards.  The ends of the frames (near the keel) were a little hacked up.  So, I cut a bit off and reconstructed to clean them up.  I cut out a basic keel shape and also cut the frame slots out.  The frames stick a 1/4" into the keel.  An 1/8" of this will be a 1/8" slot for the frames to sit on and insure they are centered.  Might cut the total slot to 3/16".  The beauty of a 1:1 1/2 hull prototype.  The bow is soon to come.

Need to reacquaint myself on how to terminate the planks on the stern (below the waterline) for a Bermuda Sloop like design.  No room to curve into the stem at all, has to have a bulkhead like piece to land on.  Above the waterline need to also identify the wing transom and related architecture.  Have to dig out my books.  -Mark

With a good fair wind I added the braces tonight.  Everything still removable and all bulkheads lay flat to easily transfer to vellum when everything done.

Next up is to clean up the bottom edges to the bearding line and work on getting the 1/2 keel added for strength.  Also need to cutout a false deck to get that sizing correct.  - Mark
 

Hey, Progress!  Visions of Druid dances in my head LOL.  Long time since I have sniffed Rubber Cement.
 
Got everything rough cut.  Next up is to add the tabs for the backboard, then the spacers to solidify.  A keel (1/2 width) also to be made to solidify it all and then......sanding.  Always sanding. 
 
The three values shown per frame are the # frame I have drawn, frame from original FGW ship plans used to define top hull and finally the Chapman line used to derive bottom hull.

With a good fair wind I added the braces tonight.  Everything still removable and all bulkheads lay flat to easily transfer to vellum when everything done.

Next up is to clean up the bottom edges to the bearding line and work on getting the 1/2 keel added for strength.  Also need to cutout a false deck to get that sizing correct.  - Mark