kruginmi

So that whole stem post - how to end planking issue is now resolved.  Really the only way to do it.

Also shows the railing height issue is not more.
Mark

After all the hyjinks with the Jylland I remembered I had another Billings Boats model in the cabinet of doom.  Started 25-30 years ago on a kitchen table it had been set aside due to issues (mostly created by me) that I didn't know how to proceed with.  I pulled the box out and bare bones inner hull assembly.



A mixed media kit (as Billings are apt to be) but a smart looking ship.  I shouldn't but decided to do a parallel build with the Jylland.
 
The issues that had stopped me where 4 fold:
1.  I had clamped the keel so hard I had introduced a rather severe hogging.
2.  While the bulkheads where perpendicular to the keel they had 'variations' left to right.
3.  The deck (I did add a false deck) was not entirely level (see above).
4.  I didn't know how to affix the planking to the forward inner stem.  They were supposed to be glued onto the inner stem, then sanded to allow the outer (visible) stem to be affixed.
 
So....first off was the keel.  I removed the existing one and introduced a nice straight one.

This didn't allow all the bulkheads to seat but that will be handled as I plank.
I have high hopes for this one.  Largely to be built out of the box.  The plastic pieces give me pause but I will use this as test subject to see how well I can get them integrated visually.  -Mark
 

Snapshot of progress.  Not a play by play of everything I have done.  Happy to answer any/all questions if any.
 
As I get into the finer details I am not a stickler for the plans in a kit like this, just looking to enjoy myself.  For example, the bulwark rail is shown to be a lighter wood (like the hull).  Decided I wanted a darker (natural) look so brought in some 1/16" walnut for the job.  I have only completed the back half of the rail to allow me to plank the upper stern deck.  I like the result.

For the trim piece below the side decoration I substituted in some cherry I had on hand.  To allow it to fit into the bow area (bending wise) I used 1/32" strips and laminated 2 together.  Still need some sanding but all good.

On a side note, the deck houses in the kit had the location lines for the trim marked on them.  I was concerned some would be visible in the final product so actually build the main boxes for each inside out.  I like having a clean palette. 

I actually liked the idea of putting the access door in the house to starboard, causing the rearmost cabin door to move port.  When this is shown next to other Regina's (haha) easy to pick mine out. 
 
Next up is finishing the rail and replacing the plastic belay pin rail at the bow.  My resultant hull differs from the plastic outline enough that it justifies just making a new one.
 
Mark

Snapshot of progress.  Not a play by play of everything I have done.  Happy to answer any/all questions if any.
 
As I get into the finer details I am not a stickler for the plans in a kit like this, just looking to enjoy myself.  For example, the bulwark rail is shown to be a lighter wood (like the hull).  Decided I wanted a darker (natural) look so brought in some 1/16" walnut for the job.  I have only completed the back half of the rail to allow me to plank the upper stern deck.  I like the result.

For the trim piece below the side decoration I substituted in some cherry I had on hand.  To allow it to fit into the bow area (bending wise) I used 1/32" strips and laminated 2 together.  Still need some sanding but all good.

On a side note, the deck houses in the kit had the location lines for the trim marked on them.  I was concerned some would be visible in the final product so actually build the main boxes for each inside out.  I like having a clean palette. 

I actually liked the idea of putting the access door in the house to starboard, causing the rearmost cabin door to move port.  When this is shown next to other Regina's (haha) easy to pick mine out. 
 
Next up is finishing the rail and replacing the plastic belay pin rail at the bow.  My resultant hull differs from the plastic outline enough that it justifies just making a new one.
 
Mark

One feature that pops out is the mid-ship walkway so decided to knock the base structure out.

Still need the guard rails but that can come later.  Affixed the plastic c-channel on top of the bulwarks to finish the look.  This walkway is easily removed.  This gives the ship an overall look of:

Decided to look closer at the cannon:

The bottom row left three are from the kit.  That flared out muzzle sure make them look older than the mid to late 1800's.  All supplied cannon are the same type.  For the main gun deck you get the top row guns which affix to the hull.  For comparison I grabbed in my stash a set of 18 pounders which I showed as the three shiny right hand ones.
 
My basic research shows the ship used (1864)  8-18 pounder, 4-12 pounder and 32-30 pounder guns.  The top deck has 16 gun ports with 12 guns identified so that is another question on what goes where.  I am toying with the idea to use some of my 18 pounders (obviously only on the top deck).  Have to ponder that one.  The guns on display at the museum definitely look more like the 18 pounder version than that supplied by Billings.
 
To ramble some more I am seriously considering having this ship put back into my list of ships to do once this is complete.  I have the next three projects waiting but think I could take what I have learned, research some more and produce a set of plans (and a list of assumptions) that would produce a better ship.  I would definitely need to find that book referenced at the start of this project.  The old girl is growing on me and I would like to do her justice.
Mark
Up next is to finish the planking on the starboard side and fabricate the missing deck furniture.  Masts/Spars are quickly coming up.

Ever forward.  Updated the bow based on new information.  The highlighted 'brace' I hereby declare as the Steggen Brace.  I had no idea it existed until his pic.  As it be said, let it be done.  Looks much better overall with the added center platform.

Finally decked the stern area.  That took a minute.  Obviously deck furniture to be added.

Figured out my missing deck height on the main deck.  Looked at the cannon and for this kit they are very bare bones - only the carriage and gun which they want glued to the deck.  Well.....I can fancy them up and add wheels which will give me the necessary height addition.

Now to sort out the main deck furniture so I can start laying out the deck and where planking is required.
Mark
 

One feature that pops out is the mid-ship walkway so decided to knock the base structure out.

Still need the guard rails but that can come later.  Affixed the plastic c-channel on top of the bulwarks to finish the look.  This walkway is easily removed.  This gives the ship an overall look of:

Decided to look closer at the cannon:

The bottom row left three are from the kit.  That flared out muzzle sure make them look older than the mid to late 1800's.  All supplied cannon are the same type.  For the main gun deck you get the top row guns which affix to the hull.  For comparison I grabbed in my stash a set of 18 pounders which I showed as the three shiny right hand ones.
 
My basic research shows the ship used (1864)  8-18 pounder, 4-12 pounder and 32-30 pounder guns.  The top deck has 16 gun ports with 12 guns identified so that is another question on what goes where.  I am toying with the idea to use some of my 18 pounders (obviously only on the top deck).  Have to ponder that one.  The guns on display at the museum definitely look more like the 18 pounder version than that supplied by Billings.
 
To ramble some more I am seriously considering having this ship put back into my list of ships to do once this is complete.  I have the next three projects waiting but think I could take what I have learned, research some more and produce a set of plans (and a list of assumptions) that would produce a better ship.  I would definitely need to find that book referenced at the start of this project.  The old girl is growing on me and I would like to do her justice.
Mark
Up next is to finish the planking on the starboard side and fabricate the missing deck furniture.  Masts/Spars are quickly coming up.

One feature that pops out is the mid-ship walkway so decided to knock the base structure out.

Still need the guard rails but that can come later.  Affixed the plastic c-channel on top of the bulwarks to finish the look.  This walkway is easily removed.  This gives the ship an overall look of:

Decided to look closer at the cannon:

The bottom row left three are from the kit.  That flared out muzzle sure make them look older than the mid to late 1800's.  All supplied cannon are the same type.  For the main gun deck you get the top row guns which affix to the hull.  For comparison I grabbed in my stash a set of 18 pounders which I showed as the three shiny right hand ones.
 
My basic research shows the ship used (1864)  8-18 pounder, 4-12 pounder and 32-30 pounder guns.  The top deck has 16 gun ports with 12 guns identified so that is another question on what goes where.  I am toying with the idea to use some of my 18 pounders (obviously only on the top deck).  Have to ponder that one.  The guns on display at the museum definitely look more like the 18 pounder version than that supplied by Billings.
 
To ramble some more I am seriously considering having this ship put back into my list of ships to do once this is complete.  I have the next three projects waiting but think I could take what I have learned, research some more and produce a set of plans (and a list of assumptions) that would produce a better ship.  I would definitely need to find that book referenced at the start of this project.  The old girl is growing on me and I would like to do her justice.
Mark
Up next is to finish the planking on the starboard side and fabricate the missing deck furniture.  Masts/Spars are quickly coming up.

Ever forward.  Updated the bow based on new information.  The highlighted 'brace' I hereby declare as the Steggen Brace.  I had no idea it existed until his pic.  As it be said, let it be done.  Looks much better overall with the added center platform.

Finally decked the stern area.  That took a minute.  Obviously deck furniture to be added.

Figured out my missing deck height on the main deck.  Looked at the cannon and for this kit they are very bare bones - only the carriage and gun which they want glued to the deck.  Well.....I can fancy them up and add wheels which will give me the necessary height addition.

Now to sort out the main deck furniture so I can start laying out the deck and where planking is required.
Mark
 

Ever forward.  Updated the bow based on new information.  The highlighted 'brace' I hereby declare as the Steggen Brace.  I had no idea it existed until his pic.  As it be said, let it be done.  Looks much better overall with the added center platform.

Finally decked the stern area.  That took a minute.  Obviously deck furniture to be added.

Figured out my missing deck height on the main deck.  Looked at the cannon and for this kit they are very bare bones - only the carriage and gun which they want glued to the deck.  Well.....I can fancy them up and add wheels which will give me the necessary height addition.

Now to sort out the main deck furniture so I can start laying out the deck and where planking is required.
Mark
 

Mark, I can understand your frustration.
Like most old ships that have survived for more than a 100 years Jylland has been trough several rebuilds during her lifetime and the original plans does not represent the ship as she looks today. In the case of Jylland she was a derlict hull that at one time sank while layed up in Copenhagen. The restoration did not start until the 1980s and was finished in 1994. So Billing probably did not know the deck layout of Jylland when they put out the first  kit in the -70s. I have not had a cloes look at the "new" kit so I can´t tell how accurate or inaccurat it is.
 
Anders

Okay, I lied.  Decided to add the planks to see how they will look and if the self adhesive is still viable.  I was half way through and not liking the way the planks were not laying down (coming loose).  Decided I had Titebond at hand so started to add my own adhesive.  Seemed to work very well.  Each plank is laid individually.  You do not cut out a section and apply as one unit.

Now just need to carry on down the hull and bring to the same state of readiness for sanding sealer (for when it gets warm - feels like 8 degrees Fahrenheit here with snow falling currently.
Mark

The final Krug representation of the forward Bow area deck.  I put three representative planks of the targeted deck which will cover the recessed area (surrounded by 1/32" wood).  I like the look so will probably fill this in hopefully tomorrow.

A little more deconstruction for the good of the build.  I pulled off the rest of the bow deck section and re-did the slope to bring it in line with a better representation of the ship.  I also took this opportunity to add a floor to areas that could be seen.  The real ship is very different (kit is way over complicated) but I didn't want to rip everything out.

 
I also designed the grating section.  The key here was to go off the actual deck piece and not the plans per se.  The result seemed to fit the bill.  To complicate matters there are two false decks here.  One tucks atop the frames but between the sides (1/32" thick).  This is seen below

 
The second sits on top of all so rises above the bulwark cap rail seen amidships (1/16" thick).  The side planking will also cover this.  On top of this will be the thin deck shown previously.  On the outside edge will be a 1/32" trim piece that will slightly hang over the edge.  This has not been glued and/or sanded to exact size yet.  You can also see the plastic 'C' channel on top of the bulwarks, not glued yet used for sizing.

The outside holes are for the grating sections.  They will end up flush with the deck.  Given the gratings depth I needed to cut out both false decks for insertion.  The center section stays open.

Next step is to get the gratings sorted and affixed.  Then on to finishing up the stern deck.
Stay Building My Friends, Mark

The final Krug representation of the forward Bow area deck.  I put three representative planks of the targeted deck which will cover the recessed area (surrounded by 1/32" wood).  I like the look so will probably fill this in hopefully tomorrow.

Finished up one side with the gun deck ports.  Like most things with ships, given the quantity of repetition your technique and speed increase.  The aft most port requires the planking below to be added first.

 
I have only put the backing on 4 ports so far.  Doing some fine tuning with plank alignment.
Mark

First off - Peter:  Thanks for the kind words, just (trying) to have some fun.
 
Now to define why all the questions / rabbit holes.  This ship has gone through (it seems) so many big changes externally.  Add a deck, stretch the deck, change the deck furniture (maybe).  I had no idea when I started what a can of worms that would be opened.  Every time I look at a specific topic and compare the plans I have, the updated plans from Billings, pictures I can get from the web, plans from the archives and finally the input from this great group I have quite a few different answers.  Since I didn't know this from the beginning I have baked in some specifics variables from my re-draw of the hull plans.  Again, the bulkhead pieces were seemingly hacked out of the wood with a dull butter knife and the plans as shown did not have a right angle and could not be used fix the pieces (this kit from the 70's, not the replacement one available now).
 
I laughed this evening because I finally gave a close look at the deck fittings.  Let's start from the stern looking at the original plans:
Pictures clearly show the ship's wheel is sitting on a grating (makes sense).  No such thing as defined on this model.  Looking at images, the next item up should be a skylight then a grating.  These are switched (or are they as defined originally?)  Under the ships boats there should be a skylight as exists today.  Would the ships boats still fit here?
Moving forward:

The funnel has a secondary tube.  Shown on the plans aft of the funnel.  Pics of the current ship show it forward.  The stairs down to the gun deck seemingly should be forward of the grate.  Even the funnel in the forward grate can be seen pointing forward and aft.
 
Is this all time period dependent?  Was Billings this sloppy or did they design off one set of procured source material.  I have looked at the 'new' 'improved' deck plans of their updated Jylland kit (real expensive) and they are not much different.
 
I think the answer is to rename the ship the Krylland (get it - Krug and Jylland - I crack myself up) and get'r done (joke).  This ultimately is for my Uncle so I will proceed making choices for aesthetics / function / and finally ~accuracy.  As always, I welcome any and all input just know I will probably make choices that will cause your eyelid to twitch a little.
 
This ship deserves a well made set of plans (or maybe 2 or 3 based on date).  A great ship.
 
Thanks again to all, I will endeavor to persevere
Mark

First off - Peter:  Thanks for the kind words, just (trying) to have some fun.
 
Now to define why all the questions / rabbit holes.  This ship has gone through (it seems) so many big changes externally.  Add a deck, stretch the deck, change the deck furniture (maybe).  I had no idea when I started what a can of worms that would be opened.  Every time I look at a specific topic and compare the plans I have, the updated plans from Billings, pictures I can get from the web, plans from the archives and finally the input from this great group I have quite a few different answers.  Since I didn't know this from the beginning I have baked in some specifics variables from my re-draw of the hull plans.  Again, the bulkhead pieces were seemingly hacked out of the wood with a dull butter knife and the plans as shown did not have a right angle and could not be used fix the pieces (this kit from the 70's, not the replacement one available now).
 
I laughed this evening because I finally gave a close look at the deck fittings.  Let's start from the stern looking at the original plans:
Pictures clearly show the ship's wheel is sitting on a grating (makes sense).  No such thing as defined on this model.  Looking at images, the next item up should be a skylight then a grating.  These are switched (or are they as defined originally?)  Under the ships boats there should be a skylight as exists today.  Would the ships boats still fit here?
Moving forward:

The funnel has a secondary tube.  Shown on the plans aft of the funnel.  Pics of the current ship show it forward.  The stairs down to the gun deck seemingly should be forward of the grate.  Even the funnel in the forward grate can be seen pointing forward and aft.
 
Is this all time period dependent?  Was Billings this sloppy or did they design off one set of procured source material.  I have looked at the 'new' 'improved' deck plans of their updated Jylland kit (real expensive) and they are not much different.
 
I think the answer is to rename the ship the Krylland (get it - Krug and Jylland - I crack myself up) and get'r done (joke).  This ultimately is for my Uncle so I will proceed making choices for aesthetics / function / and finally ~accuracy.  As always, I welcome any and all input just know I will probably make choices that will cause your eyelid to twitch a little.
 
This ship deserves a well made set of plans (or maybe 2 or 3 based on date).  A great ship.
 
Thanks again to all, I will endeavor to persevere
Mark

Didn't I send you at some stage a list of all the drawings that pertain to JYLLAND from the archives of the Danish Navy Shipyard?
 
Basically, archival Nos. G1859 to G1896 pertain to her, including a rigging plan (G1872 and G1873). There are additional mast details at G4882 to G4900.
 
The mast actually look surprisingly vertical.
 

Mark, on each ship some rake added per the captains wishes. From what I've read and seen discussed most are between 3 and 5 degrees main and fore and no more than 7 degrees on the mizzen. If you search "mast rake" I beat you find several discussions on the topic. 

Mark,
I don´t have any good plans showing the masts and rigging of Jylland, but the attached picture is a sideview of the hull as built and show the masts below deck and there seems to be a slight rake to all of them.

That helps a ton.  Marching to completion.
 
One additional question (for now haha):  Is there any rake to the masts?  They 'look' at ninety degrees to water line (and at this scale that may be good enough).
Mark

That helps a ton.  Marching to completion.
 
One additional question (for now haha):  Is there any rake to the masts?  They 'look' at ninety degrees to water line (and at this scale that may be good enough).
Mark

2 additional details:
1.  for the masting white or off-yellow.
1a.  Topmast black between mast top and cheeks?
2.  What about the grates / other - I 'assume' white also.
 
1. Masts are a pale yellow as are the funnel. Topmasts look to be black, but it´s a bit hard to tell as most pictures showing the whole masts are taken from some distance.
2 Gratings. This is a bit more difficult. Looking through the pictures from my visit in 1999 most of the gratings are covered by tarps. The grating on the raised fore deck is not painted as is the one below the steering wheel. This looks to be made of teak. As for the others both gratings and skylights looks to be painted a reddish brown color. At least the base of the grate/skylight is painted, the rest is covered by tarps.
 
In the drawing that is a postcard the gratings are painted white. This drawing depicts Jylland before she was rebuilt to serve as a transport for the Danish King as there is no raised aft deck.
 

1. White
2. Also white
3. Natural or a light brown with a hint of red.