kruginmi
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kruginmi got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100
Thanks Keith, appreciate it.
Using a dowel, I created a pseudo mast to replicate the masthead height for all three masts. This allows me to verify the width of the chain plates as well as the location of the shrouds themselves. Quick easy tool that has loads of benefits.
You can also see I have created (and attached) all of the 6 chainplates. Ended up using 1/16" Basswood keyed into the hull.
Pretty darn strong this way - just hope I do not snap any of these off between now and the end of the build. Additionally allows pretty precise placement (over and over again until glued). I still have the platform for the port of entry to do, then on to the vertical wood beams between gun ports.
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100
After slicing the tip of my thumb off (not even hobby related) back to getting the chain plates on so I can start the second planking.
For strength I like to key them in. A little more work but I think worth it. First step was to sand the facing edge flush against the hull side. Important step is to get all the bevels correct so chain plate parallel to waterline and not perpendicular to hull.
I can still work the mating surface for an even better fit but keep remembering there is still a veneer planking which will cover the entire joint.
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100
Next step was to mark the copper line. Put the ship back into the building slip and (gently) ran a fixed pencil line at the appropriate level. The copper section will be replicated using just paint. The upper section will be planked with veneer.
I then marked ribs at 5 foot scale intervals. This will allow me to align the plank ends up. Probably going with 15 foot scale plank lengths.
To finish everything off I marked off the chain plates. These will be built next and keyed into the hull for strength. One of the bonuses of double planking is that the planking can effectively cover up any joins.
The hawse hole rings are currently press fit and can be removed easily. Just having fun.
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from Keith Black in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100
Even as I sit here, my eye is twitching and I just have to keep staring at the issue. Must not grab knife......
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kruginmi got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100
Got the entry port cut out and the platform inserted. Was moving on to the external vertical posts between some main gunports. When comparing to the actual pics I noticed something.....
I had put on the chain plates even with the deck beams (in this case the false deck). Never thought a second about it. But....as I looked at the ship pics the positioning was different as defined between the upper and lower ports. Moving the chain plates up a 1/16" (equal with the decking) made things a whole lot more consistent. Bummer. The CPs are totally locked in, glued and looking perfect. Given the rest of the kit is a 'representation' with several issues all around I am thinking of leaving things as is. My Uncle isn't getting any younger.
BTW: There will a leading trim piece added to each long edge of the chain plates once the actual chains are added (to capture them). So much more tidy than trying to drill holes and insert them.
Any thoughts?
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100
Catheads and braces, along with hawse holes in place.
Now to define the dividing line to the copper plates. Additionally will pencil in faux bulkheads every 5 feet (every 5/8 inches) from this line to top of bulwark. This will allow me to stagger the joints of the 2nd planking. Still need to figure out the width of the planks themselves. Looks like 4 rows per gunport is an estimate. Question is, do I do 2 rows to make it look better at scale.
Mark
p.s. Need to identify the locations of the vertical posts. Might be better to add prior to 2nd layer planking.
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kruginmi got a reaction from Keith Black in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100
Thanks Keith, appreciate it.
Using a dowel, I created a pseudo mast to replicate the masthead height for all three masts. This allows me to verify the width of the chain plates as well as the location of the shrouds themselves. Quick easy tool that has loads of benefits.
You can also see I have created (and attached) all of the 6 chainplates. Ended up using 1/16" Basswood keyed into the hull.
Pretty darn strong this way - just hope I do not snap any of these off between now and the end of the build. Additionally allows pretty precise placement (over and over again until glued). I still have the platform for the port of entry to do, then on to the vertical wood beams between gun ports.
Mark
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kruginmi reacted to Keith Black in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100
Very nice, Mark. Lovely work.
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kruginmi got a reaction from robdurant in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100
After slicing the tip of my thumb off (not even hobby related) back to getting the chain plates on so I can start the second planking.
For strength I like to key them in. A little more work but I think worth it. First step was to sand the facing edge flush against the hull side. Important step is to get all the bevels correct so chain plate parallel to waterline and not perpendicular to hull.
I can still work the mating surface for an even better fit but keep remembering there is still a veneer planking which will cover the entire joint.
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from Keith Black in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100
After slicing the tip of my thumb off (not even hobby related) back to getting the chain plates on so I can start the second planking.
For strength I like to key them in. A little more work but I think worth it. First step was to sand the facing edge flush against the hull side. Important step is to get all the bevels correct so chain plate parallel to waterline and not perpendicular to hull.
I can still work the mating surface for an even better fit but keep remembering there is still a veneer planking which will cover the entire joint.
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from Keith Black in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100
Next step was to mark the copper line. Put the ship back into the building slip and (gently) ran a fixed pencil line at the appropriate level. The copper section will be replicated using just paint. The upper section will be planked with veneer.
I then marked ribs at 5 foot scale intervals. This will allow me to align the plank ends up. Probably going with 15 foot scale plank lengths.
To finish everything off I marked off the chain plates. These will be built next and keyed into the hull for strength. One of the bonuses of double planking is that the planking can effectively cover up any joins.
The hawse hole rings are currently press fit and can be removed easily. Just having fun.
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from ccoyle in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100
Next step was to mark the copper line. Put the ship back into the building slip and (gently) ran a fixed pencil line at the appropriate level. The copper section will be replicated using just paint. The upper section will be planked with veneer.
I then marked ribs at 5 foot scale intervals. This will allow me to align the plank ends up. Probably going with 15 foot scale plank lengths.
To finish everything off I marked off the chain plates. These will be built next and keyed into the hull for strength. One of the bonuses of double planking is that the planking can effectively cover up any joins.
The hawse hole rings are currently press fit and can be removed easily. Just having fun.
Mark
-
kruginmi got a reaction from Keith Black in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100
Catheads and braces, along with hawse holes in place.
Now to define the dividing line to the copper plates. Additionally will pencil in faux bulkheads every 5 feet (every 5/8 inches) from this line to top of bulwark. This will allow me to stagger the joints of the 2nd planking. Still need to figure out the width of the planks themselves. Looks like 4 rows per gunport is an estimate. Question is, do I do 2 rows to make it look better at scale.
Mark
p.s. Need to identify the locations of the vertical posts. Might be better to add prior to 2nd layer planking.
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kruginmi got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100
WIth Spring comes many requirements on your time.
I worked out the catheads laminating 10 pieces of wood. 7/32 of an inch. Still need to create the sheaves (will use plastic rod). I have one other one as a prototype to determine the angle and length to the hull. This will go through the outer bulwark and secure to the inner for strength.
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kruginmi got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100
Question: New area for me - looking to paint below the waterline and veneer plank above. What are the recommendations for sealer and/or primer? Lots of choices out there. Anyone give me lessons learned or solid guidance?
Enough with the full length hull shots already! Well, how about one more.
Filled and sanded the port side (for clarity, the pic shows it not sanded LOL).
While I had the filler out I looked at the bottom of the keel as well as stem. I had laminated basswood over the original and that was exactly how it looked, so masked off and wood filled that area also. Prime goal was to clean up the head on shot.
Now need to get the rudder hole drilled out and define the catheads.
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100
Wax on - Wax off.....
Got the Starboard side slathered up with wood filler (not Elmers Glue-All) and then after a day or two, sanded most of it off. Hull feels silky smooth. Maybe a couple of touch up points but will probably seal and prime first for better visibility. That filler sure is a fine talcum powderish dust when sanding. Good ventilation is a must. I stood in the middle of my front yard with a good breeze going.
Stern side up next then position the catheads / brace finally the fore and aft deck house bulkheads.
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from Keith Black in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100
WIth Spring comes many requirements on your time.
I worked out the catheads laminating 10 pieces of wood. 7/32 of an inch. Still need to create the sheaves (will use plastic rod). I have one other one as a prototype to determine the angle and length to the hull. This will go through the outer bulwark and secure to the inner for strength.
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kruginmi got a reaction from clearway in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100
I should mention I do plastic vacuform planes on the side. I have an airbrush and primarily use acrylics for this. Just scratching my head for what is best for wood as well as handling after the paint is complete.
Thinking a non-acrylic primer with the patina added with acrylics. This would be followed by a non-acrylic varnish. One concern is that the veneer needs to be glued over the primer. I would prefer not using super glue.
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from Keith Black in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100
I should mention I do plastic vacuform planes on the side. I have an airbrush and primarily use acrylics for this. Just scratching my head for what is best for wood as well as handling after the paint is complete.
Thinking a non-acrylic primer with the patina added with acrylics. This would be followed by a non-acrylic varnish. One concern is that the veneer needs to be glued over the primer. I would prefer not using super glue.
Mark
-
kruginmi got a reaction from Keith Black in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100
Question: New area for me - looking to paint below the waterline and veneer plank above. What are the recommendations for sealer and/or primer? Lots of choices out there. Anyone give me lessons learned or solid guidance?
Enough with the full length hull shots already! Well, how about one more.
Filled and sanded the port side (for clarity, the pic shows it not sanded LOL).
While I had the filler out I looked at the bottom of the keel as well as stem. I had laminated basswood over the original and that was exactly how it looked, so masked off and wood filled that area also. Prime goal was to clean up the head on shot.
Now need to get the rudder hole drilled out and define the catheads.
Mark
-
kruginmi got a reaction from robdurant in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100
Wax on - Wax off.....
Got the Starboard side slathered up with wood filler (not Elmers Glue-All) and then after a day or two, sanded most of it off. Hull feels silky smooth. Maybe a couple of touch up points but will probably seal and prime first for better visibility. That filler sure is a fine talcum powderish dust when sanding. Good ventilation is a must. I stood in the middle of my front yard with a good breeze going.
Stern side up next then position the catheads / brace finally the fore and aft deck house bulkheads.
Mark
-
kruginmi got a reaction from Keith Black in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100
Wax on - Wax off.....
Got the Starboard side slathered up with wood filler (not Elmers Glue-All) and then after a day or two, sanded most of it off. Hull feels silky smooth. Maybe a couple of touch up points but will probably seal and prime first for better visibility. That filler sure is a fine talcum powderish dust when sanding. Good ventilation is a must. I stood in the middle of my front yard with a good breeze going.
Stern side up next then position the catheads / brace finally the fore and aft deck house bulkheads.
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from LeoM in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100
Well, got those stern blocks (2 each side) affixed and shaped. A large file for the bulk, then down to sandpaper for tuning. Probably still some more subtle shaping left to do.
With that all the stealers / shaped fillers / blocks are all attached. Now for sanding and more sanding prior to applying a sealer than primer. Above the waterline will be veneer planked.
Funny story: looking at the pic of the port side, rear gun port. Yah, never finished that. Cutting it out won't be that bad, it is just adding the backing plate would have been so much easier reaching in the hull. I have to laugh.
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100
Well, got those stern blocks (2 each side) affixed and shaped. A large file for the bulk, then down to sandpaper for tuning. Probably still some more subtle shaping left to do.
With that all the stealers / shaped fillers / blocks are all attached. Now for sanding and more sanding prior to applying a sealer than primer. Above the waterline will be veneer planked.
Funny story: looking at the pic of the port side, rear gun port. Yah, never finished that. Cutting it out won't be that bad, it is just adding the backing plate would have been so much easier reaching in the hull. I have to laugh.
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Jylland by kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:100
Anders: In my book search I have found (and am able to procure) this book:
Not the cheapest but I will do it if it is worthwhile. Are you familiar with it?
It is not by the author you had given but still not finding a copy that I have the ability to get.
Mark
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