kruginmi

Steggen is always the voice of reason in crazy times / posts. 
 
2 additional details:
1.  for the masting white or off-yellow.
1a.  Topmast black between mast top and cheeks?
2.  What about the grates / other - I 'assume' white also.
Mark

I have been looking trough my references on Jylland and it looks like she has always been black with the white stripe. As for the inside of the bulwarks these are white on Jylland as she appears today.
Looking at old BW photos it looks like a very light color was used from the ship was new and my guess is it has always been white.

I'm with Keith and think the fighting black hull is the way to go. Far more dramatic. I am really enjoying your build log and am glad you have resurrected your unique model.
Cheers,
Peter

Okay, I lied.  Decided to add the planks to see how they will look and if the self adhesive is still viable.  I was half way through and not liking the way the planks were not laying down (coming loose).  Decided I had Titebond at hand so started to add my own adhesive.  Seemed to work very well.  Each plank is laid individually.  You do not cut out a section and apply as one unit.

Now just need to carry on down the hull and bring to the same state of readiness for sanding sealer (for when it gets warm - feels like 8 degrees Fahrenheit here with snow falling currently.
Mark

My choice, Mark.

Accepting input (did I do this already?) of color choices.   Bottom of hull will be patina-ized copper (greenish) that is set.  Question is upper hull and masting.
 
As seen today (white hull, light yellow masting with some black upper works) or
 
Fighting black hull, white stripe across gunports, black gunports, green inner bulworks
 
Or other.
 
Give me your thoughts.
Mark

Okay, I lied.  Decided to add the planks to see how they will look and if the self adhesive is still viable.  I was half way through and not liking the way the planks were not laying down (coming loose).  Decided I had Titebond at hand so started to add my own adhesive.  Seemed to work very well.  Each plank is laid individually.  You do not cut out a section and apply as one unit.

Now just need to carry on down the hull and bring to the same state of readiness for sanding sealer (for when it gets warm - feels like 8 degrees Fahrenheit here with snow falling currently.
Mark

Okay, I lied.  Decided to add the planks to see how they will look and if the self adhesive is still viable.  I was half way through and not liking the way the planks were not laying down (coming loose).  Decided I had Titebond at hand so started to add my own adhesive.  Seemed to work very well.  Each plank is laid individually.  You do not cut out a section and apply as one unit.

Now just need to carry on down the hull and bring to the same state of readiness for sanding sealer (for when it gets warm - feels like 8 degrees Fahrenheit here with snow falling currently.
Mark

Okay, I lied.  Decided to add the planks to see how they will look and if the self adhesive is still viable.  I was half way through and not liking the way the planks were not laying down (coming loose).  Decided I had Titebond at hand so started to add my own adhesive.  Seemed to work very well.  Each plank is laid individually.  You do not cut out a section and apply as one unit.

Now just need to carry on down the hull and bring to the same state of readiness for sanding sealer (for when it gets warm - feels like 8 degrees Fahrenheit here with snow falling currently.
Mark

The final Krug representation of the forward Bow area deck.  I put three representative planks of the targeted deck which will cover the recessed area (surrounded by 1/32" wood).  I like the look so will probably fill this in hopefully tomorrow.

Great to see you back. Those gratings are a big improvement on the kit. 

The bow looks terrific, Mark.

Big day today in the life of this model - it gets the holes for masts to allow those dramatic side shots:

Now the 'masts' seen are from the original kit and will not be used.  They were available and a consistent diameter less than the target masts so why not.  I did need them to insure I had everything in alignment when sighting down the center line.
 
First step was to attach the all important blocking for support and strength.

Then securing to the ship stand and verifying level I got it on the drill press.  I actually drilled twice.  The first was with a smaller diameter hole to verify all was right before I enlarged with a second round.

The moment of truth was when you sighted down all three 'masts' while looking at the hull.  This alignment is beyond me with the camera so you have the closest I can get.

Everything looks good.  When I get the backings on the gun ports I can start planking again.  I do need to have a look at the cathead's.   I do not have them on my plans and need to insure they are still possible haha.
Mark

The final Krug representation of the forward Bow area deck.  I put three representative planks of the targeted deck which will cover the recessed area (surrounded by 1/32" wood).  I like the look so will probably fill this in hopefully tomorrow.

The final Krug representation of the forward Bow area deck.  I put three representative planks of the targeted deck which will cover the recessed area (surrounded by 1/32" wood).  I like the look so will probably fill this in hopefully tomorrow.

The final Krug representation of the forward Bow area deck.  I put three representative planks of the targeted deck which will cover the recessed area (surrounded by 1/32" wood).  I like the look so will probably fill this in hopefully tomorrow.

The final Krug representation of the forward Bow area deck.  I put three representative planks of the targeted deck which will cover the recessed area (surrounded by 1/32" wood).  I like the look so will probably fill this in hopefully tomorrow.

A little more deconstruction for the good of the build.  I pulled off the rest of the bow deck section and re-did the slope to bring it in line with a better representation of the ship.  I also took this opportunity to add a floor to areas that could be seen.  The real ship is very different (kit is way over complicated) but I didn't want to rip everything out.

 
I also designed the grating section.  The key here was to go off the actual deck piece and not the plans per se.  The result seemed to fit the bill.  To complicate matters there are two false decks here.  One tucks atop the frames but between the sides (1/32" thick).  This is seen below

 
The second sits on top of all so rises above the bulwark cap rail seen amidships (1/16" thick).  The side planking will also cover this.  On top of this will be the thin deck shown previously.  On the outside edge will be a 1/32" trim piece that will slightly hang over the edge.  This has not been glued and/or sanded to exact size yet.  You can also see the plastic 'C' channel on top of the bulwarks, not glued yet used for sizing.

The outside holes are for the grating sections.  They will end up flush with the deck.  Given the gratings depth I needed to cut out both false decks for insertion.  The center section stays open.

Next step is to get the gratings sorted and affixed.  Then on to finishing up the stern deck.
Stay Building My Friends, Mark

A little more deconstruction for the good of the build.  I pulled off the rest of the bow deck section and re-did the slope to bring it in line with a better representation of the ship.  I also took this opportunity to add a floor to areas that could be seen.  The real ship is very different (kit is way over complicated) but I didn't want to rip everything out.

 
I also designed the grating section.  The key here was to go off the actual deck piece and not the plans per se.  The result seemed to fit the bill.  To complicate matters there are two false decks here.  One tucks atop the frames but between the sides (1/32" thick).  This is seen below

 
The second sits on top of all so rises above the bulwark cap rail seen amidships (1/16" thick).  The side planking will also cover this.  On top of this will be the thin deck shown previously.  On the outside edge will be a 1/32" trim piece that will slightly hang over the edge.  This has not been glued and/or sanded to exact size yet.  You can also see the plastic 'C' channel on top of the bulwarks, not glued yet used for sizing.

The outside holes are for the grating sections.  They will end up flush with the deck.  Given the gratings depth I needed to cut out both false decks for insertion.  The center section stays open.

Next step is to get the gratings sorted and affixed.  Then on to finishing up the stern deck.
Stay Building My Friends, Mark

A little more deconstruction for the good of the build.  I pulled off the rest of the bow deck section and re-did the slope to bring it in line with a better representation of the ship.  I also took this opportunity to add a floor to areas that could be seen.  The real ship is very different (kit is way over complicated) but I didn't want to rip everything out.

 
I also designed the grating section.  The key here was to go off the actual deck piece and not the plans per se.  The result seemed to fit the bill.  To complicate matters there are two false decks here.  One tucks atop the frames but between the sides (1/32" thick).  This is seen below

 
The second sits on top of all so rises above the bulwark cap rail seen amidships (1/16" thick).  The side planking will also cover this.  On top of this will be the thin deck shown previously.  On the outside edge will be a 1/32" trim piece that will slightly hang over the edge.  This has not been glued and/or sanded to exact size yet.  You can also see the plastic 'C' channel on top of the bulwarks, not glued yet used for sizing.

The outside holes are for the grating sections.  They will end up flush with the deck.  Given the gratings depth I needed to cut out both false decks for insertion.  The center section stays open.

Next step is to get the gratings sorted and affixed.  Then on to finishing up the stern deck.
Stay Building My Friends, Mark

A little more deconstruction for the good of the build.  I pulled off the rest of the bow deck section and re-did the slope to bring it in line with a better representation of the ship.  I also took this opportunity to add a floor to areas that could be seen.  The real ship is very different (kit is way over complicated) but I didn't want to rip everything out.

 
I also designed the grating section.  The key here was to go off the actual deck piece and not the plans per se.  The result seemed to fit the bill.  To complicate matters there are two false decks here.  One tucks atop the frames but between the sides (1/32" thick).  This is seen below

 
The second sits on top of all so rises above the bulwark cap rail seen amidships (1/16" thick).  The side planking will also cover this.  On top of this will be the thin deck shown previously.  On the outside edge will be a 1/32" trim piece that will slightly hang over the edge.  This has not been glued and/or sanded to exact size yet.  You can also see the plastic 'C' channel on top of the bulwarks, not glued yet used for sizing.

The outside holes are for the grating sections.  They will end up flush with the deck.  Given the gratings depth I needed to cut out both false decks for insertion.  The center section stays open.

Next step is to get the gratings sorted and affixed.  Then on to finishing up the stern deck.
Stay Building My Friends, Mark

My decking conundrum.  I was gifted a deck sheet (with adhesive on back) which actually is in the right proportions.

The problem is the deck is less than veneer width in depth.  I had allocated a 1/32" deck depth when building.  If I use this I need to add a second false deck over the first to allow for that depth.  Very doable but the joints will need to be very smooth with this stuff.
In the meantime also going to 'improve' the aesthetics of the raised bow area.  The kit supplied ink stamped gratings are less than desirable.  Picked up some basic gratings of the right size which will be put into this area.  I have removed part of the false deck for this and will custom fit/size the gratings to the model shape.  A lot of this model is a compromise between accuracy, looks, and the what I have to work with.

This is also contingent on the deck decision described above.  The 1/32" can really be detected here as it defines how the bulwark caprail merges into this area.
Mark
Mark

This was a huge issue for me which ended up being a trifle.  The provided rear bulwark decoration (yes, plastic) did not conform to the deck angle.  I spent a lot of time (too much) pondering how to compensate.  Finally (maybe after the whiskey plank haha) I tore off the false deck and modified the underlying frames to set it right.  We are talking less than 20 minutes to a solution.

It was a very minimal correction but reset my mood for this project.  
Onto the decking.  The provided plank separators were at a different depth size than the planks themselves but with some careful prep in gluing went down pretty straight forward.

Still need to do the stern deck but need to define the caprail / waterway first.  Plenty of wood left to accomplish this so that is nice.
Caprail is next (along with the remaining flooring).  I do need to sanding seal the hull so that will wait for warmer weather.  Lots of things to do in the meantime.
Mark

Good to see a post from you, Mark.

My decking conundrum.  I was gifted a deck sheet (with adhesive on back) which actually is in the right proportions.

The problem is the deck is less than veneer width in depth.  I had allocated a 1/32" deck depth when building.  If I use this I need to add a second false deck over the first to allow for that depth.  Very doable but the joints will need to be very smooth with this stuff.
In the meantime also going to 'improve' the aesthetics of the raised bow area.  The kit supplied ink stamped gratings are less than desirable.  Picked up some basic gratings of the right size which will be put into this area.  I have removed part of the false deck for this and will custom fit/size the gratings to the model shape.  A lot of this model is a compromise between accuracy, looks, and the what I have to work with.

This is also contingent on the deck decision described above.  The 1/32" can really be detected here as it defines how the bulwark caprail merges into this area.
Mark
Mark