kruginmi

I hit a bit of a milestone today.  Still have a couple of gaps to fill and the stern blocks to shape and affix, but the hull has been largely closed up.  Below the waterline will be a smooth surface, above will be a 2nd planking with veneer.  Lots of sanding but it is good to have a rock solid hull in your grasp.

Alright, back in operation.  Finished up all the bulwarks.  This took some time but happy with the result.  Again, curved exterior to match the tumblehome but interior perpendicular to deck.  5/32" exposure at top, variable (5/32" to 9/32") at base.  Access port towards midships not cut out at this time for strength of total bulwark as I plank the bottom and have the ship inverted occasionally.

The caprail is a plastic u-channel piece that will be glued on later.

Finally getting back to the business at hand - closing up the hull.

Temperatures are sure warming up out there but still pressing on to start sanding / filling / sanding the hull.
Mark

Well this takes some time, but the end result is pretty nice.  This is the stbd forward section.  If you look closely you see the change from 1/16" inner thickness top to bottom at the forward end, to double that at the far end at the deck level only.
 
I still need to cut out the external gun port, put on the inner skin, then cut the internal four gun port openings.
 
Going on a family holiday so I will check in from afar for the next bit of time.
Mark

Just tried out the 5/32" wide extruded plastic C channel.  Fits like a glove.

That will upgrade the look by quite a bit.  Sometimes it is the simple things.
Mark

A critical part at this juncture is to make sure the cannon ports are the correct height for the cannons.  I needed to compensate for the lack of a deck and attached wheels but everything checked out with the plans.  Also the first time I dug a cannon out of the kit and actually looked at them.

Once the framework was done on for the inner bulkhead, the ports needed to be cut out of the outer bulwark.  This allowed the inner wall to be glued on and then the gunport hole cut out repeated on the inner.  I used a drill to identify the corners, sliced through on the opposite side with a sharp knife, then used a riffler file to fine tune.


This whole process was then repeated on the opposing side bulwark.

I am now half way there!  Two more stretches of bulwark each with (again) four gun ports.  The interesting wrinkly coming up is that the bulwark flairs to the outside by the fore deck.  The middle section of the bulwark will become just a constant 1/16".  It takes time but really looks pretty cool.  I am happy.
Mark

On to the inner bulwark and framing.  This is a bit hard to capture on camera given that the outer bulwark has a bit of a tumblehome but the inner bulwark is perpendicular to the deck.  This tumblehome also changes so no mass producing of stanchions.  This can be seen at the mid deck port.

 
My calculations showed a target of 5/32" at the cap.  Given the 1/16" outer and 1/32" inner, that left 1/16" of stanchion post exposed at the cap.
 
For the rear, this tumblehome was about 1/8" over the height of the bulwark.  Using my Byrnes Saw with sled really helped.  I used 3/32" bass as the width of the stanchions.  For safety and hold, I used a strip of 3/32" at the proper height.  On the edge I cut the proposed angle and tested it in position.  Adjusting as necessary until it fit against the outer bulwark well.

The 1/16"spacing was then added at the top of the stanchion, a perpendicular to the base line drawn and the stanchion cut out.  Lather, rinse and repeat.  This takes some time and I have thrown out a few which just didn't turn out.  Find your groove, put some nice classical music on and just do it.
 
The  presence of the 4 gun ports necessitated some additional care.  I did create a port spacing template to insure the openings where exact across the entire deck.  I still need to add the upper and lower beams for each - as well as cut the openings out in the outer bulwark prior to installing the inner bulwark.
 
I added 1/16" stringers between the stanchions at both top and bottom for better support of the inner bulwark.

The shame is that once I put on the inner bulwark none of this will be seen (and very little people will understand the work required).  Our fate in life.

I can state this significantly strengthens the bulwarks.
Mark

How do you plank a ship?  Well, the basic answer (and a philosophical one) is by adding one plank at a time.

In this picture the new plank has been soaked in very hot water, put in place and is being allowed to dry in place.  Once dry enough I will add glue and affix in much the same way (however with much less stress).
Mark

I picked up a 1/96 propeller and lifting frame from Cottage Industries targeted for the Revell CSS Alabama for not too much money.  Not an exact match but better than the kit supplied one:

With some filing and shaping I could do something with that.  I wish I had the lifting frame when I built out the prop area but I think I could modify to make it fit.  Not too far out whack for what I see in pictures of the actual ship.

When you put both together I have a good starting point for some filing and tweaking, on both the ship and supplied pieces.  I will not have the lifting component actually rigged in to raise, but it will look the part.

See how it looks.  Always have the option to go to plan B and use the original (let alone scratch something up).
Mark

Hey Mark, I purposefully posted that aircraft as a backdrop behind the current ship build.  No intent for a separate build log.  -
 
Probably last you will see of it.  (A26 Invader, Comet kit)
Mark

Back on to the gun deck cannon backing pieces.  Should have these completed this weekend and I am thinking carving of the stern blocks will start.
 
It has been a bit of time since the last update.  I had to shift focus onto a second project that jumped in priority.  I left a small hint in the attached photo of what that could be.  Let me see who can figure it out....

Only the smartest will figure it out.  Let's get to that inner planking (did I say too much there?)
Mark

Big day today in the life of this model - it gets the holes for masts to allow those dramatic side shots:

Now the 'masts' seen are from the original kit and will not be used.  They were available and a consistent diameter less than the target masts so why not.  I did need them to insure I had everything in alignment when sighting down the center line.
 
First step was to attach the all important blocking for support and strength.

Then securing to the ship stand and verifying level I got it on the drill press.  I actually drilled twice.  The first was with a smaller diameter hole to verify all was right before I enlarged with a second round.

The moment of truth was when you sighted down all three 'masts' while looking at the hull.  This alignment is beyond me with the camera so you have the closest I can get.

Everything looks good.  When I get the backings on the gun ports I can start planking again.  I do need to have a look at the cathead's.   I do not have them on my plans and need to insure they are still possible haha.
Mark

Well, got those stern blocks (2 each side) affixed and shaped.  A large file for the bulk, then down to sandpaper for tuning.  Probably still some more subtle shaping left to do.

With that all the stealers / shaped fillers / blocks are all attached.  Now for sanding and more sanding prior to applying a sealer than primer.  Above the waterline will be veneer planked.

Funny story:  looking at the pic of the port side, rear gun port.  Yah, never finished that.  Cutting it out won't be that bad, it is just adding the backing plate would have been so much easier reaching in the hull.  I have to laugh.
Mark

Mark,
This book is new to me, so I have no idea if it´s any good.
 
Anders

I hit a bit of a milestone today.  Still have a couple of gaps to fill and the stern blocks to shape and affix, but the hull has been largely closed up.  Below the waterline will be a smooth surface, above will be a 2nd planking with veneer.  Lots of sanding but it is good to have a rock solid hull in your grasp.

Well this takes some time, but the end result is pretty nice.  This is the stbd forward section.  If you look closely you see the change from 1/16" inner thickness top to bottom at the forward end, to double that at the far end at the deck level only.
 
I still need to cut out the external gun port, put on the inner skin, then cut the internal four gun port openings.
 
Going on a family holiday so I will check in from afar for the next bit of time.
Mark

I hit a bit of a milestone today.  Still have a couple of gaps to fill and the stern blocks to shape and affix, but the hull has been largely closed up.  Below the waterline will be a smooth surface, above will be a 2nd planking with veneer.  Lots of sanding but it is good to have a rock solid hull in your grasp.

Anders:  In my book search I have found (and am able to procure) this book:

Not the cheapest but I will do it if it is worthwhile.  Are you familiar with it?
 
It is not by the author you had given but still not finding a copy that I have the ability to get.
Mark

Alright, back in operation.  Finished up all the bulwarks.  This took some time but happy with the result.  Again, curved exterior to match the tumblehome but interior perpendicular to deck.  5/32" exposure at top, variable (5/32" to 9/32") at base.  Access port towards midships not cut out at this time for strength of total bulwark as I plank the bottom and have the ship inverted occasionally.

The caprail is a plastic u-channel piece that will be glued on later.

Finally getting back to the business at hand - closing up the hull.

Temperatures are sure warming up out there but still pressing on to start sanding / filling / sanding the hull.
Mark

Alright, back in operation.  Finished up all the bulwarks.  This took some time but happy with the result.  Again, curved exterior to match the tumblehome but interior perpendicular to deck.  5/32" exposure at top, variable (5/32" to 9/32") at base.  Access port towards midships not cut out at this time for strength of total bulwark as I plank the bottom and have the ship inverted occasionally.

The caprail is a plastic u-channel piece that will be glued on later.

Finally getting back to the business at hand - closing up the hull.

Temperatures are sure warming up out there but still pressing on to start sanding / filling / sanding the hull.
Mark

Mark, the Jylland is coming along nicely. Enjoy the time with your family, those together times are far too few. 

Top 3 planks and bottom 2 on both sides.  Wood quality is 'ok.'  If I wasn't adding wood filler I would have replaced.
 
Now to take a break (while I still can get my hand inside) and get the lower tier gun ports marked and cut out, the bulwark supports in and the blocking for the masts / deck openings put in.
 

All of the initial prep and plan drawing has paid off.  Obviously some sanding in the future but the shape is coming in.
Mark

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays from a cold, snow swept Michigan!

Drew onto the false deck the location of the deck furniture but also cannon ports on the edge.

This diversion was required to understand how / where I can put the bulwark stanchions.  In the next pic you can see (starting from the left) I can do either side of the bulkhead, next only the left, and for the third I will need to add an extender to the bulkhead to clear the deck access port.

Another important piece of the puzzle is that I firmly identified where the aft deck ends which will define the aft deck wall (just aft of the mast).  I need to get that constructed and affixed.  Additionally where the under deck mast blocks need to be added prior to drilling.
Mark

Well this takes some time, but the end result is pretty nice.  This is the stbd forward section.  If you look closely you see the change from 1/16" inner thickness top to bottom at the forward end, to double that at the far end at the deck level only.
 
I still need to cut out the external gun port, put on the inner skin, then cut the internal four gun port openings.
 
Going on a family holiday so I will check in from afar for the next bit of time.
Mark

Just tried out the 5/32" wide extruded plastic C channel.  Fits like a glove.

That will upgrade the look by quite a bit.  Sometimes it is the simple things.
Mark