kruginmi

And we are off.....
 
Peter has really learned not to just grab the glue bottle and get the model assembled in one or two days which really helps.  First step was to wash the parts directed for use today, the main hull and decks.
 

 
This model is not the easiest to position the two main decks into the hull halves (already talked about in a separate build log).  Last night, knowing this, I did some practice assembly to figure out the best approach for us.  Additionally, I wanted to provide the clearest guidance to Peter on where to paint and especially where not to (glue line for decks onto hull).
 
I finally came up with a modified path that I think will work.  The two hull halves are to be glued together by themselves (no decks).  Tomorrow the lower deck will be glued in by itself to be followed a day or so later (after the lower deck is painted) by the upper deck.  This seems to keep everything in control and accurate.
 

 
In the pics I just put in the deck, the hull providing the grip to keep it in position.  Peter can be let loose painting soon enough with not too much concern on my part.
 
There are deck to deck beams near the middle of the lower deck.  These are the only 'sticky wickets' as they say.  I am not too worried about them.
 
Now off to allow the four year old some painting on other crafts.
 
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark and Peter

And we are off.....
 
Peter has really learned not to just grab the glue bottle and get the model assembled in one or two days which really helps.  First step was to wash the parts directed for use today, the main hull and decks.
 

 
This model is not the easiest to position the two main decks into the hull halves (already talked about in a separate build log).  Last night, knowing this, I did some practice assembly to figure out the best approach for us.  Additionally, I wanted to provide the clearest guidance to Peter on where to paint and especially where not to (glue line for decks onto hull).
 
I finally came up with a modified path that I think will work.  The two hull halves are to be glued together by themselves (no decks).  Tomorrow the lower deck will be glued in by itself to be followed a day or so later (after the lower deck is painted) by the upper deck.  This seems to keep everything in control and accurate.
 

 
In the pics I just put in the deck, the hull providing the grip to keep it in position.  Peter can be let loose painting soon enough with not too much concern on my part.
 
There are deck to deck beams near the middle of the lower deck.  These are the only 'sticky wickets' as they say.  I am not too worried about them.
 
Now off to allow the four year old some painting on other crafts.
 
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark and Peter

And we are off.....
 
Peter has really learned not to just grab the glue bottle and get the model assembled in one or two days which really helps.  First step was to wash the parts directed for use today, the main hull and decks.
 

 
This model is not the easiest to position the two main decks into the hull halves (already talked about in a separate build log).  Last night, knowing this, I did some practice assembly to figure out the best approach for us.  Additionally, I wanted to provide the clearest guidance to Peter on where to paint and especially where not to (glue line for decks onto hull).
 
I finally came up with a modified path that I think will work.  The two hull halves are to be glued together by themselves (no decks).  Tomorrow the lower deck will be glued in by itself to be followed a day or so later (after the lower deck is painted) by the upper deck.  This seems to keep everything in control and accurate.
 

 
In the pics I just put in the deck, the hull providing the grip to keep it in position.  Peter can be let loose painting soon enough with not too much concern on my part.
 
There are deck to deck beams near the middle of the lower deck.  These are the only 'sticky wickets' as they say.  I am not too worried about them.
 
Now off to allow the four year old some painting on other crafts.
 
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark and Peter

So the building began. Keel assemble vent fine. Just dryfitted the frames. They fits perfectly to the keel. Going to glue them tonight. Its gonna be a great weekend i the workshop

With my 9 year old son now having three models under his belt (two ships) with my help:
 

 
He asked what was next on the horizon.  I was actually given an Airfix 1:180 HMS Victory model recently and I realized I now had two in stock.  So.....we are going to do dual builds.  The models are packaged differently but contain exactly the same kit components.
 

 
We are laying things out and mapping out our plan.  I am planning to do this one out of the box with no 'improvements.'  His model will be all him.  It will be interesting to get back into painting.  The paint in both boxes is quite old so I will buy new acrylics locally (as close as possible in color).  He is the only kid so far (fifth of six) that has had any interest in models so I am doing whatever I can to fan the flames - how can you do wrong with the Victory?
 

 
Looking forward to spending the time together,
Mark

With my 9 year old son now having three models under his belt (two ships) with my help:
 

 
He asked what was next on the horizon.  I was actually given an Airfix 1:180 HMS Victory model recently and I realized I now had two in stock.  So.....we are going to do dual builds.  The models are packaged differently but contain exactly the same kit components.
 

 
We are laying things out and mapping out our plan.  I am planning to do this one out of the box with no 'improvements.'  His model will be all him.  It will be interesting to get back into painting.  The paint in both boxes is quite old so I will buy new acrylics locally (as close as possible in color).  He is the only kid so far (fifth of six) that has had any interest in models so I am doing whatever I can to fan the flames - how can you do wrong with the Victory?
 

 
Looking forward to spending the time together,
Mark

Mark,
 
I found the kit on Ages of Sail and my in-laws got it for me for Christmas. As for the bowsprit, it is all one piece with the keel and rudder from PE brass about 0.5mm thick. Although it has been bent a few times by my fat fingers, it seems to be fairly resilient in the breakage department.

Mark, looks like a nice build for the two of you. I will enjoy watching the progress. Have fun

With my 9 year old son now having three models under his belt (two ships) with my help:
 

 
He asked what was next on the horizon.  I was actually given an Airfix 1:180 HMS Victory model recently and I realized I now had two in stock.  So.....we are going to do dual builds.  The models are packaged differently but contain exactly the same kit components.
 

 
We are laying things out and mapping out our plan.  I am planning to do this one out of the box with no 'improvements.'  His model will be all him.  It will be interesting to get back into painting.  The paint in both boxes is quite old so I will buy new acrylics locally (as close as possible in color).  He is the only kid so far (fifth of six) that has had any interest in models so I am doing whatever I can to fan the flames - how can you do wrong with the Victory?
 

 
Looking forward to spending the time together,
Mark

With my 9 year old son now having three models under his belt (two ships) with my help:
 

 
He asked what was next on the horizon.  I was actually given an Airfix 1:180 HMS Victory model recently and I realized I now had two in stock.  So.....we are going to do dual builds.  The models are packaged differently but contain exactly the same kit components.
 

 
We are laying things out and mapping out our plan.  I am planning to do this one out of the box with no 'improvements.'  His model will be all him.  It will be interesting to get back into painting.  The paint in both boxes is quite old so I will buy new acrylics locally (as close as possible in color).  He is the only kid so far (fifth of six) that has had any interest in models so I am doing whatever I can to fan the flames - how can you do wrong with the Victory?
 

 
Looking forward to spending the time together,
Mark

No worries Simon..stop by any time!   
  There has been a little progress on the build. Keel and frames are now sanded down and test planks seem to follow the hull smoothly. I’ve dry fitted the deck to check the fit to the top of the frames and took the chance to also dry fit the masts. I wanted to make sure I can hit the mask angles required from the plans, the foremast is angled forward quite noticeably on this model. Dowels are a bit warped and will need straightening.   I am now starting to work on the planking and did some tests to try and make the garboard plank by soaking a plank and then clamping it past the needed angle.  When the pressure was released after a few hours, the plank relaxed back to give a decent 90 degree bend that actually followed the hull line reasonably well. There seems to be very little room to rabbet this plank into the false keel as some articles recommend, so I will probably just gently sand this plank to chamfer it so it butts up tightly against the keel.    Thumbnails below.    Thanks for reading.   Nigel.

This is a few photos of the stern section. I still need to add the figures.

This set of phots shows the gun port wreaths installation. I decided to postpone the frieze and other decorations until the hull is complete.

Now to put the bevels in.
 
First step is to add spacers between the frames where the main wales will be.  So....I need to know the height for each frame.  I used a light box to copy the plans for the cross section to a blank piece of paper.  I then cut the plans so the floor was equivalent to the base jig.  This was then glued to a form that allows measurements to be taken off.
 
.
 
I then was able to take measurements of the wale upper and lower limits and transfer to the model.  Then spacer pieces were added.  THEN the sanding starts.  I was just focusing on one of the external sides initially.  When the full outside is done I will attach the wales for complete stiffness before attempting the inside.
 
I did find the frames had some 'issues' conforming to a pre-bevel ready install.  I had flashbacks to the original Druid when I had problems in the same area.  I had though using the top spreaders would solve how this happened but I think there are a couple of issues with the drawn frames on the plans.  I actually cut one of the lower legs and re-glued in a slightly different orientation to make things match up better.  Some other frames had their slots enlarged to allow more movement prior to gluing.  You go slow and check your progress often and it was slowly brought into alignment.
 

 
I had a plank at the ready and checked how it laid on the hull often.  As a note the first and last frame are still not glued in.  I wanted to see exactly how the bevels affected them prior to adding the futtuck join pieces to insure they visually looked right.
 

 
For a current look and comparison, the following shot shows a beveled hull on the right and untouched on the left - big difference.
 

 
All this work will be hidden (except the keel) and it might thought to be overkill but I wanted this build to be equivalent to the original build.  
 
As an aside, I include a current view of my full HMS Druid at the Lowell Arts Building (pic from them).  Not looking too shabby.
 

 
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hello,
 
just to show you that I'm hard working, here some pictures of the actual progress. It's harder then I thought, because you have to plan 3 steps in advance. After the ledges are installed you could't change nothing on deck.
 
Regards,
Siggi 

Looking good.  Kudos to trying and sharing.
 
Mark

Hello shipmates, the port side of the Vespucci is also applied with fiberglass and resin . Tomorrow I will sand the resin and after that I will apply another hand of resin. After that I will sand the second hand of resin and  I will apply grey car surface primer to spot if there are any imperfections.For the record I used 25 gr. of fiberglass and L&L resin ,(They say is no toxic but I used a mask anyway). The resin had 30 minutes work time. A friend of mine that builds r/c airplanes suggested this resin .
 
Cheers
Dimitris

Moving right along.  Some photos of where my Bounty stands after a year's work.  Some of the deck ornaments above and below are not yet glued in place.  I'll be completing all the deck stuff and adding a few more pieces down below before I start on building masts.  So enjoy and comment away.

January 09th, 2015
 
Hi all the MSW members, and Happy New Year 2015!
 
A new update from my ‘Brick de 24’ shipyard after all these days of holidays. Well, I prepared this text a couple of days ago, but then I was so busy that had no time to post it. So the work on ship has progressed a bit more now.
 
Planking of the bulwarks is now completed, the planks sanded down to almost shining finish...
This wood I’m working with, namely boxwood but I still have some doubt about it, is the hardest wood I ever worked with!
 
I cut 60 planks, 20 for each thickness as detailed in the previous posts: 1.75, 1.25 and 1.0mm. To allow the subsequent sanding, I increased these thicknesses by 0.25mm each.
My intention was to have a 0.5mm step between the 2nd and 3rd strakes, as shown on the cross section detail in the monography. But after testing the stiffness of this wood (as detailed below), and checking the plans for confirmation, I decided to sand it down so that all the planks are flush and progressively diminishing in thickness from the wale upward: the plans confirm that the scheduled step is covered by a molding, so not visible in the final model!
 
With 20 planks, I laid 2 strakes to port and starboard sides, 5 planks per side & per strake. Their length was adapted to match the position of the bulkhead top timbers and so that the butt-joints are shifted among adjacent strakes.
About this last detail, being not sure about which shift-scheme to use I just adopted logic...
 
Each plank was worked as per the following sequence:
- pre-bending edgeward, to match the bulwarks longitudinal curvature
- bending again to match the hull curvature as much as possible (so to reduce inherent tensions in the gluing)
- cut to length
- beveled on the lower edge
- darkened on all borders to simulate tar caulking (using a soft 2B lead pencil)
- glued in position
After all the above was completed, the bulwark planks exteriors were sanded with coarse to thin grade sandpaper (80 to 240).
 
Problems found:
Type of wood: what I bought as ‘boxwood’ is a timber with a lemon-yellow color (uniform in all the thickness of the log), quite hard and dense, medium heavy (the planks sink when soaked in water!), with a very thin texture (almost not visible).
Is it really boxwood? I was curious about this, so I Google-searched images but was never able to find anything similar to my timber. I suspect it is something else, nonetheless I like the color and think it is suitable for the bulwarks, and therefore will continue with it...
Cutting the boxwood: after sawing about 60 planks of different thicknesses, all 18.5cm long, the ‘Super-cut’ blade of my Proxxon KS230 appears to be a bit worn out, such that continuing cutting this wood is becoming slower and slower...
Does anyone know if these blades may be re-sharpened and which is the technique?
The planks themselves are very stiff, but with some effort they can be bent by hands without splitting: I was able to bend a plank 1mm thick to a quarter-of-circle arch (90°)!!! They hold very well the sharp edges, so that I had to handle them with care to avoid inadvertently cutting my fingers skin!
Bending the planks: as I said, the planks are quite stiff in their plain and almost do not accept any edge-bending. Even following the suggestions by Mtaylor (1 hour soaking in hot water, followed by overnight drying in a bending jig) I was only able to give a slight permanent curvature of 1.5-2mm (off the straight line) over 18.5cm length... just suitable for my needs, indeed!
Conversely, bending out of the plane was quite easy after re-soaking for 10 minutes and using a hot plank-bender tool, an adapted soldering iron. I also noticed that after this heat treatment the planks remain quite flexible and accept minor modifications to curvature/warping by hands.
 
After all this long excursus on my problems (sorry for annoying, if this was the case), I show you a couple of pictures of the current status of the hull:
 


 
I also tested something for the treenails, just to see how they come out on the boxwood.
I’m using poplar toothpicks, pushing their two ends in pre-drilled holes, then letting the glue to set, cutting flush and sanding down to the final looking.
I tested with 0.8 and 0.6mm holes, 4 holes for each size. Consider the plank is 5mm wide and not finished yet with any oil or other surface treatment.
What do you think? (Poll)
 

 
What else during these holidays?
While waiting for the bulwark planks to dry, I started designing and building the Stem pieces. This is a step forward w.r.t. the job my good friend JA has already completed, so tried to stay aligned to his quality level with a step by step scheduling of this task...
 
Usually there are several pieces in the Stem, it is composed like a sort of jigsaw. So my first question was: what do I really need?
Firstly, the hull of the ‘Brick de 24’ was covered by copper tiles, and almost surely my model will be so. Secondly, the uppermost part of the Stem (not coppered) will be covered by the figurehead. Thirdly, and finally, it will be entirely painted black. So apparently there is no need for cutting all the jigsaw pieces, a single piece might suit the requirement.
My intention is to build these parts (and the keel, false-keel and stern-post as well) from 8mm thick pearwood. So I quickly checked what I have available in my shipyard and found that my 8mm pearwood pieces are only 5cm wide... I definitely needed to cut the Stem into several pieces and later joint them!
Thus, how many pieces? I’m not the lucky owner of a large amount of power tools, I still cut the wood by hand with a scroll-saw, which makes keeping square angles hard on a dense, hard and 8mm thick material like the intended pearwood I have in my mind. Therefore the fewer pieces the less effort is required!
So, in the end, I decided that 3 main pieces adequately suit both the requirements and my needs.
 
From brain storming to drawing table... passing by JA’s drawings of the stem and by a check in the plans for the exact shape of the stem and its subparts...
It is quite strange that this detail is only marginally treated in the monography, only shown in one side profile. For this reason, and also considering this detail will be covered and not visible, the shapes of the jigsaw parts are no perfectly matching the little detail of the plans but more matching what I saw here on MSW... fantasy, some interpretation, some compromise...
 
This is the result, with the three sub-assemblies circled in red:
 

 
Here after cutting the pieces:
 

 
and here the completed Stem after rejoining together the pieces:
 

 
The separation lines among the parts are only engraved with several passes of a sharp blade and then highlighted by pencil graphite. Similarly highlighted are the joints among the three main pieces.
 
A part from the hand scroll-saw, the only power tools I used are a brand new disk sander (Christmas present I did to myself), 10” diameter, tilting table from +15 to -45deg (Proxxon TSG250/E, great stuff!!) and a sanding drum vertically mounted into my press-drill.
 

 
That’s all for now: next jobs in the scheduling will be completion of the counter 1st planking (done yesterday and the day before), then preparation of the transom molding (done yesterday) and the keel.
Then I will switch at last to follow JA’s sequence with the weather deck.
 
Stay tuned
Fam

December 23rd, 2014
 
Hi to all the MSW members,
as promised, I’m posting a final update before stopping the shipyard for the Christmas holidays.
In the last week I reached a major milestone, i.e. completing the lower hull planking. Now the 1st layer of limewood strips is set on both hull sides, from the upper border of the wale downward to the keel.
I took a couple of work sessions to smooth out all irregularities and bumps in the planking, by sanding with progressively finer sandpaper: started with 80 grit, then 120 and finally 240, for a smooth and even finish. No need of filler in any point.
I’d like to show you the result with the following pictures. I am in the background because this permits to appreciate the size of the hull, which is quite large: about 71cm long, 15cm high, 20cm wide.
 



 
Next job was to trim the planks closer to their final size and start refining their stern side.
Well, this was done during the final phases of the hull sanding, to ease the smoothing of the surface in proximity of the stern counter. This is why in the next pictures the hull finish is not smooth yet.
The next picture shows how the planks running into the counter were cut to permit accommodating the counter template.
 

 
After this was obtained, I cut the rudder hole into the counter base plywood, in order to facilitate the following works on this detail.
The job was done by firstly drilling lot of small holes along the inside of the hole profile, then joining them with a cutter and finally cleaning the hole borders with needle files and grinders.
 

 
Next was the preparation of the first counter plank, whose scope is also to finish the running of the hull planks.
I soaked a piece of limewood strip for about 15 minutes, then tried edge-bending it with the help of three clamps and a piece of suitably shaped scrap plywood.
 

 
When released from the clamps (after a couple of hours) the wood was completely dry, the spring-back was minimal and the shape was maintained.
I was so pleased by this result that later I decided to try the same technique with the bulwark 2mm thick boxwook planks (see below). Well, the result was unexpectedly negative: the spring-back was so large that the shape was completely lost. I have the doubt that probably this was due to the different characteristics of the wood, much more dense and compact w.r.t. the limewood, but also to the larger thickness (2mm vs 1.5mm) requiring much longer soaking in water and more time into the clamps.
Will try again changing these parameters, but if anybody has any suggestion for bending the boxwood I will appreciate and try it immediately.
 
Next picture shows the first counter plank positioned, while glue is setting.
A second plank was fitted right below, needing some width adaptation. The shape of the counter is such that its upper and lower border does not run parallel to each other, so the width of the plank needs to be narrower at the extremes and wider in the middle. Five full planks are needed for the counter, plus a filler at the joint with the transom.
 

 
With the hull planking completed, I could not resist the temptation to try my new wood reserve!
So I started cutting the planks for the bulwark exterior. This area is partially painted black, from the wale up to the gunport sills. Then from this level up to the gunwales the color is natural yellowish, with an ochre tone.
 

 
For this reason I decided to use boxwood to plank the bulwarks all the way up to the gunwale.
As stated above (Nov 24th) the planking thickness above the wale starts with 1.75mm for two stakes, then there is a small step (0.5mm), reducing to 1.25mm and fading to 1mm thickness at the top of the bulwark: four strakes are required above the gunport sills up to the gunwale.
So started calculating the amount of planks require for the first thicker band. The Ancre monography states that hull planks length varied between 30 and 40 feet, which translates into between 190 and 254mm in 1:48 scale, if British feet measure is used for conversion.
But my question is... did French shipwrights use British units during the Napoleonic Wars? I don’t think so! Additionally, conversion into 1:1 scale gives planks of 9-12m length, that in my opinion is a bit excessive... but again I’m ready to change mind if anyone has suggestions...
I also had to consider that my planks need to seat on the top-timbers, so in the end decided to shorten a little bit the plank length to an average 180mm, slightly varying depending on the position of the bulkheads top-timbers.
 
The following picture shows the planks being cut from boxwood billets 5mm thick: for a 1.75mm thickness I set the table-saw to 0.25mm more (2mm total), to take into account for the next sanding.
 

 
The cut is crisp and the wood is holding very well a sharp edge! Also I noticed that, regardless of the small thickness of the planks, they are really stiff and quite hard to bend... I should have anticipated the problems I described above, but was too excited by the beauty of this wood to be capable of thinking forward...
 
The next picture is not describing any work phase, but I want to show it because I like the streamlined shape of this hull, the neat alignment of top-timbers and ... the straightness of the keel as a result of hundreds of continuous cross checks... well done Andrea!!!
 

 
Two more shots of yesterday evening job.
I started laying the first strake of boxwood on top of the limewood planks: the separalion line between the two qualities of wood defines the upper border of the wale, which now shows very prominently. A small step is evident, the boxwood being 0.5mm thicker than the limewood (or even more, considering the latter has been sanded): a second layer is still missing to the wale, for a total wale thickness of 2.25mm in this area.
Also evident in the first shot, the bow, is the reason why I tried to bend edgeward the bulwark planks: the slight upward curve is quite visible. The curvature of the planks at the bow is quite strong, so I had to use again the water and hot-iron technique... have to admit that lot of previous training in doing this job with my little Knarr was very helpful, as I managed to bend the planks as required with little effort and also managed to give the small upward bending that is visible in the picture
 

 
First bulwark plank strake completed and glue drying... and run out of clamps as well
 

 
Last detail: each border of the boxwood planks is blackened with a soft pencil graphite, to simulate the tarred caulking. I’ve already used this technique with my 1:50 Pinco Genovese, and being completely satisfied decided to use it again!
 
That’s all from my ‘Brick de 24’ shipyard.
Any comment and suggestion, as always, is more than appreciated and will be happy to answer any question.
 
I wish to all the members of MSW, and to their family as well, a Happy Christmas and a Happy Prosperous New Year 2015!!
 
Fam

For a first build you are going to probably handle the ship a lot off of the clamp anyway.  If everything can start straight (no warpage of the out of box base formers) the important thing is to alternate putting planks on from one side to the other to avoid inducing a warp.
 
I have built a couple of ships with out any clamps.  Not saying that is great or wrong.  I really like to hold the hull in my lap as I figure out the run of the planks and while attaching them.  As the replies show, a lot of people like reinforcing the bulkheads.  For a smaller ship not super important (not counting the bow and stern where additional glue area always helps at the termination of the plank runs).
 
The important thing is to forge ahead and get experience - and finish it!  You will learn what works for you and what doesn't.
 
Mark

Now to put the bevels in.
 
First step is to add spacers between the frames where the main wales will be.  So....I need to know the height for each frame.  I used a light box to copy the plans for the cross section to a blank piece of paper.  I then cut the plans so the floor was equivalent to the base jig.  This was then glued to a form that allows measurements to be taken off.
 
.
 
I then was able to take measurements of the wale upper and lower limits and transfer to the model.  Then spacer pieces were added.  THEN the sanding starts.  I was just focusing on one of the external sides initially.  When the full outside is done I will attach the wales for complete stiffness before attempting the inside.
 
I did find the frames had some 'issues' conforming to a pre-bevel ready install.  I had flashbacks to the original Druid when I had problems in the same area.  I had though using the top spreaders would solve how this happened but I think there are a couple of issues with the drawn frames on the plans.  I actually cut one of the lower legs and re-glued in a slightly different orientation to make things match up better.  Some other frames had their slots enlarged to allow more movement prior to gluing.  You go slow and check your progress often and it was slowly brought into alignment.
 

 
I had a plank at the ready and checked how it laid on the hull often.  As a note the first and last frame are still not glued in.  I wanted to see exactly how the bevels affected them prior to adding the futtuck join pieces to insure they visually looked right.
 

 
For a current look and comparison, the following shot shows a beveled hull on the right and untouched on the left - big difference.
 

 
All this work will be hidden (except the keel) and it might thought to be overkill but I wanted this build to be equivalent to the original build.  
 
As an aside, I include a current view of my full HMS Druid at the Lowell Arts Building (pic from them).  Not looking too shabby.
 

 
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi guys,
 
I actually tackled this problem today. Thank you all for the input.
 
Here's how I ended up doing it:

 
I rigged up a keel clamp using a couple of tripod ball heads, a 90 deg. angle, a 4 mm thick piece of aluminum used for offsetting camera flashes, and a few small clamps. 4mm is the thickness of the false keel so it worked out nicely.
 
And here are the results:

 
I am totally pleased, this being my first build and all. 
 
Cheers,
 
Simon

Now to put the bevels in.
 
First step is to add spacers between the frames where the main wales will be.  So....I need to know the height for each frame.  I used a light box to copy the plans for the cross section to a blank piece of paper.  I then cut the plans so the floor was equivalent to the base jig.  This was then glued to a form that allows measurements to be taken off.
 
.
 
I then was able to take measurements of the wale upper and lower limits and transfer to the model.  Then spacer pieces were added.  THEN the sanding starts.  I was just focusing on one of the external sides initially.  When the full outside is done I will attach the wales for complete stiffness before attempting the inside.
 
I did find the frames had some 'issues' conforming to a pre-bevel ready install.  I had flashbacks to the original Druid when I had problems in the same area.  I had though using the top spreaders would solve how this happened but I think there are a couple of issues with the drawn frames on the plans.  I actually cut one of the lower legs and re-glued in a slightly different orientation to make things match up better.  Some other frames had their slots enlarged to allow more movement prior to gluing.  You go slow and check your progress often and it was slowly brought into alignment.
 

 
I had a plank at the ready and checked how it laid on the hull often.  As a note the first and last frame are still not glued in.  I wanted to see exactly how the bevels affected them prior to adding the futtuck join pieces to insure they visually looked right.
 

 
For a current look and comparison, the following shot shows a beveled hull on the right and untouched on the left - big difference.
 

 
All this work will be hidden (except the keel) and it might thought to be overkill but I wanted this build to be equivalent to the original build.  
 
As an aside, I include a current view of my full HMS Druid at the Lowell Arts Building (pic from them).  Not looking too shabby.
 

 
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hello Mark, thank you for your nice comments and for visiting my build log. I hope I will  be able to help but first I have to learn myself. I intend to do some tests with the cloth and the resin before applying the cloth to the actual ship.i will post photos from the progress of the fiberglass installation.I would like to wish you a happy new year.
 
Cheers
Dimitris