kruginmi

I also ponder (being prior military) the entrenched leadership and associated tactics and doctrine.  All of it out the window.  The inner fighting and clinging to the ways they knew.  Can't imagine the chaos at all levels of ranks.

Mark, over the years I've gathered up lots of info for the time period between 1860 and 1900. If ever you need a lead on something don't hesitate to ask. 
 
This period from sail to steam, cannon to gun, and wood hull to clad is amazing. All the new technologies being brought online by Navies round the world was incredible. Ships were launched and became obsolete in a fifteen/twenty year time span. The Tennessee that I'm currently working on was the USS Madawaska and renamed the USS Tennessee in 1869 after a spar deck was added and a major refit only to be scrapped in 1886. And we think todays military spending is crazy. 

Hey Keith, thanks for the note.  I live close to the west coast - in Grand Rapids.  Grew up in Plymouth.  Lived all over the United States but have returned (if you count the Army, add some foreign countries too haha).  Definitely like this side more than the Detroit area.
 
This transition time was so fleeting but that makes it so interesting.  I keep getting drawn to more detail and scratch but keep in check based on it is/was a kit and I am not swimming in information about it.  Keeping it fun and not sweating it.
Mark

Mark, I just discovered your Jylland build log. She's taking shape nicely. Screw frigates are my passion, I look forward to following along.
 
 Where are you located in our lovely state?

Had a little time, check that off the list.  Tubs for Faux gun deck access complete.  -Mark

Had a little time, check that off the list.  Tubs for Faux gun deck access complete.  -Mark

Great progress. The propellor lifting mechanism is a quite cool part of the design. Here is a couple of pictures of how it looks on deck and down below.
The metal nett is probably added in modern time for security as Jylland is a museum ship.
I have more pictures so if you are in need of information on any particular part of the ship just let me know and I will see what I have.
Another info channel is the Facebook group "Fregatten Jylland" 
 
Anders

On the theme of the prop tunnel I decided to do the topside portion.  This is a faux tunnel.  It is covered by a timber housing the pulleys so is seen only on a limited capacity.  Paint the tunnel black, add the deck and timber and all will be fine.
 
With the center alignment component I had added way back in the initial alignment phase, it was best to cut a good access way to allow this to be cut away.  This also allowed the making the tunnel off ship which was much easier.

After gluing into place everything looks good.  Again, this is a false deck - the real deck will be laid on top of this so clean up is very easy.

A much needed improvement to the model - as well as a very cool part of the real ship.
Mark

On the theme of the prop tunnel I decided to do the topside portion.  This is a faux tunnel.  It is covered by a timber housing the pulleys so is seen only on a limited capacity.  Paint the tunnel black, add the deck and timber and all will be fine.
 
With the center alignment component I had added way back in the initial alignment phase, it was best to cut a good access way to allow this to be cut away.  This also allowed the making the tunnel off ship which was much easier.

After gluing into place everything looks good.  Again, this is a false deck - the real deck will be laid on top of this so clean up is very easy.

A much needed improvement to the model - as well as a very cool part of the real ship.
Mark

Family activities (and I picked up a new guitar) have kept me from the workshop but today I wanted to make some forward progress.  Before I forgot and was unable to, I made full size templates for all the stuff that emerged above the deck - like hatches and funnel mounts.  Anything I need to make for these spaces can be measured off ship now.

For the actual hull I built out the tunnel for the prop to enter into the hull.  The model as received had nothing and I think the whole prop look was sub-par.  This tunnel in the actual ship went all the up to the aft deck, where the ropes went to hoist or let down the prop.  The tunnel will not actually functionally go all the way to the mid-deck (need the center bulkhead for support) but the illusion will be there since I will create a faux tunnel at the deck level.

Once I plank around this I can sand to the hull shape.
Cheers, Mark

Family activities (and I picked up a new guitar) have kept me from the workshop but today I wanted to make some forward progress.  Before I forgot and was unable to, I made full size templates for all the stuff that emerged above the deck - like hatches and funnel mounts.  Anything I need to make for these spaces can be measured off ship now.

For the actual hull I built out the tunnel for the prop to enter into the hull.  The model as received had nothing and I think the whole prop look was sub-par.  This tunnel in the actual ship went all the up to the aft deck, where the ropes went to hoist or let down the prop.  The tunnel will not actually functionally go all the way to the mid-deck (need the center bulkhead for support) but the illusion will be there since I will create a faux tunnel at the deck level.

Once I plank around this I can sand to the hull shape.
Cheers, Mark

Thank you so much Anders for the note!  The question of the bow has truly been a head scratcher - comparing what the kit provides / defines and real life.  Your pictures show it much more open than I even thought!  Given the overall issues with the kit I have decided to do a mod to the newer kit, but still have it more closed in.  If I had known sooner than the bulkheads could have been changed.  The area under the grating will be painted black.  It will look 'okay' at the 4 foot away level haha.
 
The bow hull flair out was interesting given the lack of adequate support.  Until I was in the thick of it just never realized the issues here.  With your photos I will look to add a solid floor around the bowsprit.  It makes sense for the deck to extent totally forward.

It is surprising the lack of information readily available for a survivor still around.  Anymore ideas or tips certainly appreciated.  I will take a look around for those books referenced.  Next step is to work on the stern.  I am adding the 'tunnel' for the screw to go into the hull (reworked the lower purchase already).
 
If nothing else I am having fun building this for my uncle.  If I could get a good set of hull lines might attempt a second from scratch - my plans put me close already!
 
Pull that hull down, slap some paint on it and get'r done.  You have probably seen I have redrawn the masting, particularly the gaff poles.
Mark

Hi,
when I found your build log for Jylland it brought back som memories. I started building the old Billing Jylland many years ago and like you I found the kit to be quite incorrect. When time came for coppering the bottom the build just stopped and it´s been sitting on a shelf in my shop ever scince.
In 1999, on a jobtrip to Denmark I was able to visit Jylland in Ebeltoft. During my visit I took quite a few (analog) pictures and also bought some quite nice postcards showing different details of the ship.
As you will see from the attached pictures the bow section of the hull is a bit different from the kit. This area is open so you can see down on the heads from the foredeck above.
 
If you want more detaild photos and plans of Jylland I can recomend two books by Danish author Bernt Kure called "Historien om Fregatten Jylland" (The history of the frigate Jylland) and "Livet om bord på Fregatten Jylland"  (Life on board the frigate Jylland). They are written in Danish but includes lots of pictures and several plans of the ship.
I don´t think these books are available new but you may find them in online second hand bookstores like here: https://www.bogtorvet.net/historien-om-fregatten-jylland_kure-bernt_1888495
 
-Anders
 

Top 3 planks and bottom 2 on both sides.  Wood quality is 'ok.'  If I wasn't adding wood filler I would have replaced.
 
Now to take a break (while I still can get my hand inside) and get the lower tier gun ports marked and cut out, the bulwark supports in and the blocking for the masts / deck openings put in.
 

All of the initial prep and plan drawing has paid off.  Obviously some sanding in the future but the shape is coming in.
Mark

Limited time today so changed gears a bit and looked aft.  Figured out where I wanted the aft deck house forward wall and sized up the inset partition.  I did this by eye off of photographs.  The overhead deck continues past the mast to the line marked on deck.  There will be a thin facade added to this wall of the doors and other such things evident on photos.  Cut everything out and glued down.  Working towards getting the forward and aft deck house's false decks affixed.  The external planking comes up even with this.
 
The aft section of the hull is to be carved from wood blocks supplied, that should be fun.   It is a rounded stern so actually makes the most sense.
-Mark

Limited time today so changed gears a bit and looked aft.  Figured out where I wanted the aft deck house forward wall and sized up the inset partition.  I did this by eye off of photographs.  The overhead deck continues past the mast to the line marked on deck.  There will be a thin facade added to this wall of the doors and other such things evident on photos.  Cut everything out and glued down.  Working towards getting the forward and aft deck house's false decks affixed.  The external planking comes up even with this.
 
The aft section of the hull is to be carved from wood blocks supplied, that should be fun.   It is a rounded stern so actually makes the most sense.
-Mark

More progress on the bow.  Lots of continuing issues with the non-symmetrical pieces and non-supports.  Taking some hints from the new kit instructions and just trying things out I went through a lot of prototyping today, a big reason I like wood over plastic.  The biggest challenge is that there is a hole in the fore deck over the bowsprit so the ability to just throw in supports is compromised.

 
In the end I got something I like.  The actual fore false deck will be replaced but the rest of the structure will remain.  I also do not show I used 1/32" planking for the fitting of the bow components.  The actual planking is 1/16".  1/32" is much more pliable and easier to work with when you are working to fit supports in.  In the coming days the final upper planks will be added along with the final fore false deck.

A good start to 2023.   -Mark

More progress on the bow.  Lots of continuing issues with the non-symmetrical pieces and non-supports.  Taking some hints from the new kit instructions and just trying things out I went through a lot of prototyping today, a big reason I like wood over plastic.  The biggest challenge is that there is a hole in the fore deck over the bowsprit so the ability to just throw in supports is compromised.

 
In the end I got something I like.  The actual fore false deck will be replaced but the rest of the structure will remain.  I also do not show I used 1/32" planking for the fitting of the bow components.  The actual planking is 1/16".  1/32" is much more pliable and easier to work with when you are working to fit supports in.  In the coming days the final upper planks will be added along with the final fore false deck.

A good start to 2023.   -Mark

I was really not liking the bow.  The fore deck provided just seemed very rounded for the ship.  I also found the sweep of the planks coming up from below would require some real hijinks and bending to adapt to this rounded shape.  In God we trust, all others bring data.
 
I looked at the preview of the new plans by Billings (link provided above) and scaled up the fore deck outline to the dimensions I had.  Lo and behold, there was a difference.
This definitely was more in the ballpark and seemed to fit the lower planking much better.  Applying this to the ship defined the horns in the forward bulkhead that needed to be shorn.  I defined a line from this depth to where the last plank was affixed and removed this wood, continuing the swoop of the hull in a natural way.

It was nice to see that the planks continued up to this deck (just clamped in place) merged almost too well with the deck as shaped.  Note:  The deck template is paper.

I installed an additional support ahead of the bulkhead to help with the stiffness.

Looking forward I am very happy with the change.  Never 'assume' the kit is right out of the box.  You are free to change anything you want.  Have fun!

The front of this ship still needs work.  There is a pseudo bulkhead that straddles the bowsprit where the fore deck has a straight line leading up to the fore deck.  And a good chunk of the center of the fore deck is cut away exposing the bowsprit and stem behind this component.  With the good bones established this will be workable.
 
The bulwark should marry in height with this fore 'false deck'  The top railing of the bulwark becomes the waterway of the fore deck.  Again, with the plan drawn I was able to provide the path to success for this to occur.  All planking exposed above this deck will be removed.
 
Having more fun that I should be allowed to have,
Mark

I was really not liking the bow.  The fore deck provided just seemed very rounded for the ship.  I also found the sweep of the planks coming up from below would require some real hijinks and bending to adapt to this rounded shape.  In God we trust, all others bring data.
 
I looked at the preview of the new plans by Billings (link provided above) and scaled up the fore deck outline to the dimensions I had.  Lo and behold, there was a difference.
This definitely was more in the ballpark and seemed to fit the lower planking much better.  Applying this to the ship defined the horns in the forward bulkhead that needed to be shorn.  I defined a line from this depth to where the last plank was affixed and removed this wood, continuing the swoop of the hull in a natural way.

It was nice to see that the planks continued up to this deck (just clamped in place) merged almost too well with the deck as shaped.  Note:  The deck template is paper.

I installed an additional support ahead of the bulkhead to help with the stiffness.

Looking forward I am very happy with the change.  Never 'assume' the kit is right out of the box.  You are free to change anything you want.  Have fun!

The front of this ship still needs work.  There is a pseudo bulkhead that straddles the bowsprit where the fore deck has a straight line leading up to the fore deck.  And a good chunk of the center of the fore deck is cut away exposing the bowsprit and stem behind this component.  With the good bones established this will be workable.
 
The bulwark should marry in height with this fore 'false deck'  The top railing of the bulwark becomes the waterway of the fore deck.  Again, with the plan drawn I was able to provide the path to success for this to occur.  All planking exposed above this deck will be removed.
 
Having more fun that I should be allowed to have,
Mark

Top 3 planks and bottom 2 on both sides.  Wood quality is 'ok.'  If I wasn't adding wood filler I would have replaced.
 
Now to take a break (while I still can get my hand inside) and get the lower tier gun ports marked and cut out, the bulwark supports in and the blocking for the masts / deck openings put in.
 

All of the initial prep and plan drawing has paid off.  Obviously some sanding in the future but the shape is coming in.
Mark

In amongst all the things to do at our house, I am getting anywhere from 2-4 full length planks affixed (each length cut into 2 pieces for fitting).

My process is to go downstairs fit one piece of a plank by defining shaping the end fit against either the fore or aft beard line.  I work out how many wand what type of clamps to use to hold it firm.  I then go up and soak the plank in hot water under the tap.  Then it gets put in place, clamped down and left for about 2 hours to dry.  After 2 hours I remove from the clamps and the shape has set.  I then put wood glue down on the bulkheads where it connects, add clue on the mating edge and clamp down.  Given the wood has been shaped and there is very little to no stress pulling it off the bulkheads, after 2 hours the clamps can be removed and proceed to the next piece. 
 
Depending on location you could do 2 1/2 pieces at a time.  I will state I stagger the bulkheads where the joins occur but do match these up port / starboard.  I am getting a pretty tight fit but don't sweat if a little gap occurs.  This is a smooth sided ship so the it will eventually be just one solid shape.
 
I did pick up the wood filler I will use (as sparingly as possible) once the planking is complete.  It is a water based product.  The reviews are good and I got it at a wood specialty store.

Lather, rinse, repeat.  No rush.  It is amazing how fast this comes together.
 Mark

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays from a cold, snow swept Michigan!

I went and cut 1/2 of the cannon ports out.  These ports essentially line up with one plank width (done on purpose) so for strength I need to add the plank on top prior to cutting them completely out.  Again, these will have a wood blank supporting all sides behind them - for the 1/2 gun provided in the kit.
 
I then measured the plank strip required to get from the top of the cannon port to the top of the bulwark (not including the top cap).  I cut a custom piece of 1/16th basswood to this size using my Byrnes Saw (love that thing).

My intention had been to create bulwark supports  prior to installing this plank but on consideration, it really seemed like it didn't need them to get the right shape.  I still will install supports, just not anchored to the bulkhead sides.  So I went ahead and glued a section on.
I used 2 sections per side, split at the port of call opening.  The brads are temporary until everything dries.  Almost went together too easy.  Clean up should be a snap.  I got both rear sections in.  The fore sections will be glued in two stages - there is quite a sweep up front so I will lock in the aft part solid, then work on the forward.
 
A lot of unexpected progress.  Here is to finishing this thing in 2023.
Mark

Lower cannon port locations transferred to hull.  Made sure they mirrored port and starboard.  Having the top of the ports along the rim of the planks installed means I can easily remove half of the opening then finish the planking.
 
The cannons on the lower tier are represented in the kit by just the forward half.  The port lids themselves have circular openings in them.  Each port cut out will have a wood backing that will support the total opening, lids and the rear mounting pin on each cannon.  Where a bulkhead is in the way, this backing board just needs to abut the bulkhead.  No need to cut the bulkhead away for clearance.